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Showing results for tags 'connector'.
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Got my bike all put back together with the new stator today, still no charging voltage at the battery. Pulled the connector off the R/R (was smart enough not to bolt it back in place) and checked for battery power, ground and voltage. I have everything at the connector now and charging voltage went up to 125 volts when I ran the idle up to ~4000 volts. Everything looks good stator side and with battery power and ground at the plug I have to assume the R/R is bad. Just looking for verification that I didn't miss something before I order one.
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Good day everyone. I need some help. I am trying to locate a connector that plugs into the voltage regulator/rectifier for a 99 Royal Star Venture. The primary red and black wires need to be at least 12 guage wiring with about 6 or 8 inches to the wire in length. If anyone has one they would like to sell please contact me. Thank you!!!! Dan -
I need to replace the 5-pin female (bike end) DIN connector on my 91 Venture - have intermittent connection and they need to be re-soldered. Does anyone have a source for this connector? I've tried Sierra and internet search. Sierra only has cables, not connectors. Only other ones I can find are chassis mount, not cable mount.
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My bike has been running like crap for a while now and i finally had time yesterday to have a look at things and clean it up a bit. I found a hose connector broken and both ends of the hose open and one end has a good vacuum on it, when its plugged the bike runs way better, so for now until I can get the connector replaced is it ok to just plug the hose ends? Just what is that hose for? Any ideas? Thanks for your help, Brian
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First I want to thank Freebird for his excelent how to on fixing the class controller board. I had nothing on my class display, most of the time. occasionally I would show 0 psi and then an e4 error then the display would go blank. I tried the solder fix and now when I switch to acc position my display lights up showing front rear manual auto on the left side and 0 psi I can select med hi or low or switch to auto mode momentarily then it goes into an E4 error. after 30 seconds or so everything recycles through the same sequence. I can hear a relay click under the trunk every time the display cycles but no compresor comes on, should I be able to hear the compressor if my pressure is too low IE: 0 psi. Looking at the wiring diagram I see a two connector plug going to the pump as well as a larger multi connector plug just upstream of the plug for the pump. I assume the compressor is under the trunk and these connectors are also in that area. can anybody tell me where the class relay is and the connector asociated with it. Where is the compressor and it's connector are located. and where the large multi connector plug just upstream is located. do I remove just the trunk, or also the seat? Again thanks Freebird, and thanks in advance to anybody who can help with my questions Al -
I'm having some trouble with the driver headset on my '91 VR. At first I thought the problem was in the cable from the headset, but I put a new cable on today, and the problem persists. I had assumed this cable was the problem because my passenger was having issues, so we swapped headset cables and the problem went away. The about a week ago my headset left speaker started cutting out, so I assumed the cable was bad. As it turns out, my problem is the cable from the amp for the driver's headset has an intermittent near the strain relief. I traced it back to the amp, and I believe the last/bottom/4th cable is the one I need to replace. However, other than evilBay, I have no idea where to get one. I could tear into the connector and resolder the wires, but doing so would runing the strain relief and the shroud arounc the female connector.... What's a guy to do? Any input will be greatly appreciated...
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2000 RSV - I was told the intercom system has never been used on the bike. I'm looking at getting a pair of headsets for wife and I. Not sure what to look for. Are they available kinda like headphones so I don't have to mount into a helmet. Is the plug-in connector a standard connector? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
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On the RSTD is there a fuse that controls the Auxiliary DC connector that is located under the drivers seat? Mine is no longer giving out 12 volts and I need to know what the problem could be if it is not a blown fuse? (2006 RSTD) -
As some of you know that I am in the middle of a HO Stator up-grade and today I was prepping the Stator Wires to Solder, But my thought was why did Yamaha place this Connetor in the most DIRTY Weatherd, Oily, Messy Spot on the bike ?.. I just can not get over how much grime and dirt was ON and IN the Connector when I cut it off. There is no way I would ever put a conneter back into that spot agian... If I knew this in the past I would have already got rid of the connector on the stock stator and hard wired it. what a MESS. This has to wreck havic on the charging system I would think. maybe Goose can chime in about this? I also am replacing the R/R as well and that connect was also very dirty. not as bad though. Jeff
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Well, it's winter around here and I just bought my bike (MK1) so I'm taking it apart, cleaning it, fixing all the broken plastic tabs, replace screws as needed... etc. and, I find this NEW HARNESS under the right hand side fairing box next to the cubby hole, just below the speaker... and I have no idea what it's for. Can anyone tell me what it's for? It is new, never been plugged into anything, has the larger two prong connector, a small two prong, a ground cable and goes to a harness controller and then feeds in behind the headlight and I assume to the battery from there. Check out the pic and let me know what you're thinking... THANKS
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I am getting ready for the winter months and buying ahead for some upgrades and fixing stuff that was done in one manner and after looking at it found a better way to do it. Anyways I have been digging through the different sites and catalogs and came across the McMaster-Carr site and I'm in connector heaven here. I found almost every type of connector, plug, socket and sleeving one could want and at the right price... cheap. I know this is a contractors catalog and some of you guys may have been using these guys for years but for the less informed on where to buy folks this is a great site. I was looking for the stainless bradded sleeving and found it in various sizes from 1/4 up to 1 1/2 for very reasonable prices ranging from 2.10 - 7.38 per ft. As far as the connectors go it looks like the sky is the limit here. They also carry those hard to find Stainless steel screws and bolts in English and Metric thread. http://www.mcmaster.com/
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noticed my brake lights on trailer not working nor turn signals but had running lights. read all the forums but didnt run across my problem. checked power going into 5 to 4 connector under back seat and had all,everything right. checked power coming out and only had the running light wire hot. so bought a new 5 to 4 connector and installed it way and had power for a bit till i touch brown and green or something and had a spark while wiring trailer plug back up and now the outlet on the new connector is the same as old one, only running light wire hot.it blew a fuse[head] when i did that, can you fry the 5 to 4 connector that easy? for now i took connector off and wired brakes to red and running lights to brown right off bike wires so i at least have running lights and brakes.want to fix it right but need to know if that spark could take out my new $28.00 5 to 4 connector. help! before i spend $28.00 again and blow it.
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Ok I've looked thru the site here, the shop manual, and even checked out the bike short of actually stripping parts off of it. I've seen the wires coming out of the stator cover and see the plug for the regulator but where those go between the two is a mystery. I'm looking for that white connector ya all talk about going bad. Seeing as my bike is 6 years old I thought it'd be a good time to check it. Don't have any problems now but don't want any supprises down the road either. Larry
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I have acquired a replacement for the plug in connector at the stator (generator, alternator, magneto etc.) These are a direct replacement for what is on the 1st gen bike from the factory. Not sure about the RSV's. General recommendation is to eliminate this connection, I am aware of that. However, I prefer to have mine unplug-able. The connection is a problem if the pins become corroded or fatigued with age. A new replacement set will be good for a long time if soldered in place. This is a direct replacement for the existing plug so it is possible to only replace one side of connection if desired, not recommended. A set of these is $12.00 including US & Canada first class shipping. This includes the male & female side of the plug and 3 each male & female connector pins. From experience, Canadian postal service takes at least 10 days and at times 20 or more. Picture shows several sets of connectors, so they can be seen from different sides. Paypal is gary(at)dinges.com replace (at) with @ They will also be in classifieds. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/DSC02347.jpg -
Hi guys, I purchased two MOSFET R/R's a while back in the group buy along w/the weather proof connectors. Put one R/R on my '83 Vison. It's great. Now I am putting the other on my 87 Royale. Well, I buggered up one of the metal terminals that are to be used w/OEM weather proof connector. Seems after 30 years in electronics I still make mistakes. I like the weather proof connectors. I checked Eastern Beaver electrics for the parts. I only need a $.59 metal terminal. But, they have a $20 minimum order. Again, I want to use the weather proof connector assembly. So, does anyone have spare metal ternimals for this connector type or knows where to get them w/o a $20 min. order? Thanks in advance...Jason
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Actually, the spelling should be ass_me because I can't say anyone else was made an ass of... I bought a little trailer to pull behind my Wing. I thought it would be perfect since the Wing already had an unusual 6 wire weatherproof connector and the trailer was equipped with the same device. I got the bike out and attached the trailer coupler to the hitch ball and was thrilled to see that the trailer tongue was perfectly level. Then I connected the chains and stood back to admire my work. So far, so good. Next, I connected the wire harness and turned the ignition key to on to verify the lights working properly on the trailer. That's when all hell broke loose! As soon as I turned around, I could see dense white smoke billowing out from the under the trunk. I immediately turned the key off and went to assess the damage. When I got to the back of the bike, I could see that the rear lights were still on. HUH? I already turned off the key... I figured (assumed) that somehow the rear lights were getting feedback voltage from the trailer, so I disconnected the wire harness. Nope, still got lights. So, I thought maybe I should start the bike to possibly reset any relays that had gotten stuck. It started right up, but I'm still getting smoke. By now, I'm beginning to panic. After turning the key to off, I quickly yanked the side cover off and pulled the main fuse. But, even that didn't stop the smoke! Now that the battery is exposed, I ran back to the garage for a wrench and disconnected the battery. Finally, the smoking ceases. It seemed like a long time, but this all took place in about 2 or 3 minutes. I opened the trunk but realized that there could be nothing in there causing the problem. I opened the left bag. This is where the previous owner installed 2 additional fuse boxes (for the lighting, audio system, trailer, etc.). I checked everything over and couldn't find any visible indication of extreme heat or any wires hot to the touch. Next step is to remove the rear fender and start following the wire harness. As soon as I got the fender off, I could see the culprit. A trailer wiring harness isolator had been installed. It was now a tortured, twisted mass of plastic, wires, and epoxy. After doing some research online, I could find no 'standard' wiring setup for the harness connector. So, the assumption I made (that made an ass of me) was that they would already be correct. Compounding the issue was that whoever installed the isolator (gotta blame someone!) had put in a 30 amp fuse. The online instructions said 10 amp max. The auxiliary fuse box was wired directly to the battery which is why pulling the main fuse didn't help. The likely culprit for all the mayhem was probably the 6th wire. This is added to a harness where a dome light is being utilized. It is normally wired to be 'hot' when the bike's ignition is in the 'off' position. When I first connected the trailer harness to the bike, it must have fed the dome light voltage back to the output side of the running lights relay in the isolator and then fried it with the contacts closed. I was fortunate that it didn't do any further damage to the bike. The moral of this story? NEVER ASSUME the previous mechanic got it right!
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Riding in the tail of a group tonight and not watching my gauges. Radio started cutting out. Then at a stop the bike completely died. Turns out the connector between the regulator/rectifier and harness had melted apart. Fortunately some digging pieces out of the molten nylon with a pocket knife and a bit of electrical tape got it patched up. A push start later and I was rolling. In hindsight it's kind of obvious this one needs to be cleaned and tightened just like the stator plug......... -
Will the bike run if the pick up coils a are shot. My 83 will idle fine but will not pull. I followed the test procedure in the tech article and got no readings on the 6 pin connector other than the ground. (Probobly doing something wrong) The 8 pin checked out fine. All 4 cyl are firing, carb sync new fuel fileter about 2 cans of sea foam. Fuel pump will fill a cup in seconds. Cleaned the connector on the side of the frame for the pick up coils. When I kick it off the center stand and try to pull away it dies and the choke will save it from stalling. If it does stall starts right back up. Any sugestions would be much appreciated frank:confused:
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my fuel pump went out the other day took pump off connect the two lines got it home no problem. i am going to buy a MR gasket fuel pump will the connector work or do i need to cut and splice the old plug on to it? thanks
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Well I finally got my faring split. Turns out the hex bolts are 5mm on my 04 RSMV. Anyway with that being said can anyone tell me which connector is the Audio control unit connector? Thank you all for your help, it has been greatly appreciated. Chris -
Guys, Thank you, thank you, thank you for all your kind help on my quest to figure out, A) how to split my faring, B) How to take off the hex bolts holding my Yamaha driving light bar inplace c) Which connector is the audio control connector. I'm also color blind if things aren't confusing enough. So has this ever happened to any of you? Today I decided to split my faring and clean fix, whatever you want to call it; the main audio control unit connector because I am having the same issues that others have been having. Sooooooooooooooooooo I got the faring split. That was OK. But then I could not figure how to get the light bar mount off. I realized I had to get what I thought was a 5.5mm ball hex allan wrench. So I made a list. On my list I put two things you good folks told me I needed. A ball hex wrench some dielectric grease. I spent two hours driving around the city looking in numerous auto parts stores for a simple 5.5mm hex allan wrench. I finally found one in a set at the fourth parts store I stopped in. What the heck, for 12 bucks I bought the set. I was ecstatic and couldn't wait to get home to loosen and remove those wretched hex bolts. Guess what I forgot to buy even though I had the list gripped so tight in my sweaty palms that the paper got wet and began to fall apart? You got it - dielectric grease. I can't believe it. I do have some 12/24 contact cleaner however and I am going to spray the heck out of every connector. Here is my quandary. Should I wait until tomorrow and go buy some dielectric grease or simply spray everything with the 12/24 cleaner and put it back together. AAAARRRRrrrrggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh? Please, please tell me some of you have had this same experience. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta
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I have to enter this thread since my initial thread. I want to respond to some of the comments generated concerning the install of my Buckeye Performance high output stator install. First, I need to qualify something. My son-in-law did the install. He is a 15 year journeyman mechanic both heavy duty and automotive. In other words, he is a professional in his trade not a backyard mechanic. He did not cut out the connector and hard wire the new stator. My new stator will not leak contrary to all those who said it will. My son-in-law used professional grade material from his shop that in his career he has used countless times. In his fifteen years as a mechanic he has installed probably hundreds if not thousands of stators, alternators and every conceivable type of component found in an electrical charging system. He currently works in an agricultural shop working on tractors, combines, and diesel farm trucks of every description. I have been told that the connector is the weak link. That if you don't hard wire the stator your bike may catch fire and burn. Why is that? I have been told to use 12 gauge or even 10 gauge wire when I hard wire the stator. Why would that be? So here is my answer to all of that. I asked my son-in-law if there was a problem with retaining the connector. He said no. He said that $750,000.00 farm tractors putting out 185amps run it all through an identical little plastic connector. My car's charging system and all trucks cars, tractors, combines etc. all run their power systems through identical plastic connectors. I then asked him in his 15 years as a professional mechanic if he has ever in a manual, workshop, training seminar, or classroom ever seen a big red warning that states something to the effect, "WARNING! IF YOU CHANGE THE STATOR IN THIS TRACTOR, CAR, TRUCK, COMBINE, MOTORCYCLE YOU MUST REMOVE ALL CONNECTORS AND HARD WIRE THE NEW STATOR OR YOUR $750,000.00 TRACTOR, CAR, TRUCK, COMBINE OR MOTORCYCLE WILL BLOW UP AND BURN! He has never in his 15 years as a mechanic seen such a warning. Here is the thing. The wire harness on the OEM stator and on the Buckeye Performance high output stator is 14 gauge wire, not 12 or 10 gauge. If you install 12 or 10 gauge wire in your installation then yes, the probability is good that your new stator will possibly burn. My question is on what premise? Because by inserting a larger gauge wire the 14 gauge wire that is still in the circuit cannot now handle the increased amperage flow from the larger diameter wire and it becomes a weak point or choke point that can potentially cause a fire. The only way the connector will be a problem is if the connector has rust or corrosion built up on the inside. Why is that? Because the rust or corrosion acts as an insulator and the increased amperage can cause it to heat up and possibly catch fire and or melt. If the connector is clean, and free of rust or corrosion it will not present a problem. If it is dirty, rusty or corroded then all you have to do is install a new connector. I do not believe that my connector will not burn or melt. Someone mentioned about the position of the connector, that, and I quote, "Well, when these bikes are assembled you can't really tell where the parts might be because they are all assembled differently and there is no way to tell where the components might be placed." When I sat down and thought about that, I thought it was an odd statement unless I totally misunderstood the reason behind the remark. It left me with the impression that these bikes are assembled randomly by 8 year old, blind drug addicts in a chop shop by throwing parts into the air and seeing where they attach themselves to the frame. To each there own. But I had to comment on all the comments about my stator install burning up and/or failing. I don't think it will fail based on what my son-in-law told me and the work he did. If it does fail, I will be sure to post it as a follow up. But I will also post at the end of the riding season so far so good. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta
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This looks interesting. Would have to change the connector but .... Has 34 Leds in it http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/webcart_productDisplay.php?itemid=203560&itemdesc=7%22+Headlight+with+LEDs http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/client/images/l177330.jpg http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/client/images/l177329.jpg
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I have an Edset system that I would like to use ear buds with. The Edset module has a 1/8 port that I think can be used for ear bubs. My ear bubs have a 3.5mm connector and that will not connect to the Edset. What am I missing. Adaptor or do some ear bubs have a 1/8 connector????? Hopefully someone can get me straight on this.
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Hey folks.... I was wondering... when you wired your bike for the trailer... what did you do with the connector?? Is there a way to mount it to the hitch?? not sure what to do with it. The trailer I bought has a 5-pin round connector...... your thoughts???
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