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Showing results for tags 'collector'.
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Been round and round with this exhaust problem. The good news is that now that I've had it apart 3 times, and have lubed the pipes and collector with a hi temp never seize, it all comes apart and goes together quickly. I pulled it all apart to get the closest inspection of the collector. I was sure there would be some visible signs of failure, but there's not. Externally it looks great. No cracks, all metal seems solid, but put it back together paying special attention to all gaskets and connections, and she still has "the sound" .....you know...the "hotrod" sound. I'm out of options. The baffles must be having an issue inside the collector. My question is: If I cut a square as big as possible out of the bottom of the collector, will I be able to gain enough access to weld the naughty baffle (s) back in place? I did a search and found only pics of the collector with baffles removed. I'd like to keep mine as quiet as possible, so would a competent welder such as myself have anything to work with once I open it up, or should I spend the big bucks and get a replacement...??? The ones I see on e-bay right now are going for $150 , which is OK, but the ones I'm seeing look to be in worse shape than the one I have. I'm planning on pulling it back apart tomorrow, but I don't know what to expect when I open it up. Anybody out there who's done this before? Thanks:confused24:
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I received my 86 Venture for a christmas present from my family. I have been able to get rid of that rust in the gas tank, rebuild the carbs,now I am on my exhaust. The collector needed to have the baffles taken out. I was successful but the pipes are all rusted. The welder doesn't think he can fix them. I would like to buy a collector that is not all rusted out. Thanks Tom -
At the risk of beating a dead horse for you members, I have a couple questions. First, does the fairing come off in one piece. I've removed the luggage, side trim, left and right tops off the upper, the lowers and the trim around the head light. I can see several mounting bolts, but can't determine if the head light as well as all the wiring and the instrument panel will stay with the bike. Not much room in there for my big hands to start undoing plugs etc. Second one concerns the replacing the collector. Do you have to drop the entire exhaust? Whats the secret hand shake for getting the two rear pipes into the top of the collector if you don't have to remove everything from the manifolds down?
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I got my used collector today in the mail. $90.00 shipped from cyclepsycho.com It needs the tabs for the front mount rewelded, but it looks to be in good shape otherwise. Should I paint it with a anti rust paint or something. Before I install it? I also have to snug up one of the rear exhaust pipes, cause it can be wiggled a little.
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For anyone who followed the thread, my 87 was making some crazy exhaust noise that caused me to remove and inspect the collector, the mufflers and the pipes several times. The issue was resolved when I replaced a seemingly healthy collector. I took the problem collector and cut it apart to see what was inside and what caused the problem. Lemme tell ya. A healthy collector would be very tough to get apart without destroying it. Using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I first cut along the perimeter of the bottom side hoping to peel away the skin with no luck. I was trying not to destroy it in the process, so I flipped it over and cut around the perimeter of the top, and although I had to cut through some of the perforated interior screen, I was able to get it apart mostly intact. This was only possible because of what ended up being the problem, which was that the two welds that hold the bottom panel to the one baffle on the inside were broken. This must have been causing the loud sound and the rattle that I had. I ended up re-welding the perforated screen anywhere that it had been pulled out during dis assembly. I then drilled 4 holes in the bottom panel where it contacted the baffle so that I could weld the baffle back on once I put it back together. I then welded the bottom panel that I'd cut back in place, then put the top back on, held it in place with a C clamp and welded it back on. I then flipped it over and welded the baffle to the bottom panel through the holes I drilled earlier. I think the takeaway is that if you are getting these crazy sounds, it'd be worth it to run 3 sheet metal screws through the bottom panel into the baffle, in line with the 2 existing spot welds, one in the middle, and one forward of the front weld and aft of the rear weld. If that cures the problem, you at least know what the problem is, and can opt to leave the screws in and see how long it lasts, or pull the collector, drill a few holes like I did and weld the baffle back to the bottom panel without taking the thing apart. In any case, I've welded mine and would be comfortable putting back on the bike, expecting no further issues. If anyone else has this problem and can get their collector to me, I'd be happy to weld the baffle back in for them. Should be pretty easy now that I know what to do.
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For anyone who followed the thread, my 87 was making some crazy exhaust noise that caused me to remove and inspect the collector, the mufflers and the pipes several times. The issue was resolved when I replaced a seemingly healthy collector. I took the problem collector and cut it apart to see what was inside and what caused the problem. Lemme tell ya. A healthy collector would be very tough to get apart without destroying it. Using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I first cut along the perimeter of the bottom side hoping to peel away the skin with no luck. I was trying not to destroy it in the process, so I flipped it over and cut around the perimeter of the top, and although I had to cut through some of the perforated interior screen, I was able to get it apart mostly intact. This was only possible because of what ended up being the problem, which was that the two welds that hold the bottom panel to the one baffle on the inside were broken. This must have been causing the loud sound and the rattle that I had. I ended up re-welding the perforated screen anywhere that it had been pulled out during dis assembly. I then drilled 4 holes in the bottom panel where it contacted the baffle so that I could weld the baffle back on once I put it back together. I then welded the bottom panel that I'd cut back in place, then put the top back on, held it in place with a C clamp and welded it back on. I then flipped it over and welded the baffle to the bottom panel through the holes I drilled earlier. I think the takeaway is that if you are getting these crazy sounds, it'd be worth it to run 3 sheet metal screws through the bottom panel into the baffle, in line with the 2 existing spot welds, one in the middle, and one forward of the front weld and aft of the rear weld. If that cures the problem, you at least know what the problem is, and can opt to leave the screws in and see how long it lasts, or pull the collector, drill a few holes like I did and weld the baffle back to the bottom panel without taking the thing apart. In any case, I've welded mine and would be comfortable putting back on the bike, expecting no further issues. If anyone else has this problem and can get their collector to me, I'd be happy to weld the baffle back in for them. Should be pretty easy now that I know what to do.
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I posted a week or two ago that I was having muffler issues with my 87 standard. I was getting significant flow from the drain hole at the inlet of the muffler on the left side. I found a replacement muffler, put it on, and while the tone changed, it still has the "hot rod" sound. As cool as it sounds, it's not the sound I was looking for. This problem started after loading / unloading the bike on a trailer, after I noticed that the bike hit pretty hard on the trailer when the back tire dropped down onto the ramp. I'm now figuring that the topside of the collector has gotta be cracked. I can see no evidence on the underside of a crack, but it's gotta be there. (on the topside) When first looking into this problem, I pulled the mufflers, pulled the front two pipes into the collector, loosened the clamps on the back two pipes to the collector, and planned to remove it for inspection, but it wouldn't budge. After a few tries I looked it over again and thought "there's nothing wrong with the collector" and gave up on removing it. Well, now I know there IS something wrong with it, so it's gotta be removed. Which brings me to my question......What's the trick??? I'm sure it's gotta be bolted on, but with all the crud down there, I saw no bolt heads. If I can get this thing off, I can weld up whatever's broken, but I don't want to chance breaking anything worse than it is by pulling / prying too hard when it's still attached somehow. Any advise on how to remove this sucker will be much appreciated. Thanks.
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My parents have an old J.C. Higgens cooler that was bought in the early 50s. Does anyone know if it has any collector value? What it may be worth? I searched all of Craigs list and ebay but could not find one similar.
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OK so it was bound to happen. My 88 collector, which had been repaired by the PO rotted out at the weld. I have it all unbolted and I have the new(used) one ready to go in. BUT....How can I get the front headers off without removing the rad etc. From this thread it looks like I should be able to. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1002 But I don't see how it's possible. it doesn't look like you can move the header far enough forward to get it out because the rad is in the way...and I can't move the rad without draining it because the lower hose is too restrictive. Any suggestions?
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My Mark's exhaust collector is here. Hopefully a little bit more horsepower in it. Nice construction, stainless steel. Needs some polishing. Good communication from Mark, a little delay in getting it due to his workload. He made it and sent it to me, before he asked for payment. His email address is markmcpipe@gmail.com Collector was $321.49 and $14.90 shipping. Gary -
I am going to need to cut open my best collector after the spare I had on my bike had the output pipe on the right muffler break off. I took my other collector off last fall because it was rattling bad. My question is, if I take the center wall out that seperates the two sides, will it make the bike louder? I have had a set of Jardines on the bike for about ten years and really don't want the bike to be any louder. In the tech write up, it does state that it opens up the bike a little, like putting a crossover pipe behind a set of headers on a car. Suggestions appreciated. RandyA -
Posting this simply as a problem solved. Others will have this issue and hopefully they will find this thread in a search, and it might help. 1st Gen VRs sometimes suffer from exhaust rattles. The noise is internal and frequently caused by a deteriorating baffle in the collector. Ever since I have had this bike it has suffered from a rattle which isn't evident in a cold engine, but soon makes its presence felt as the bike warms up. At best it is annoying, but now it is fixed. Sometime ago I had the exhaust off to have the collector repaired. It needed new stubs making and welding on and this was done. At the same time I cut open the collector to fix the baffle. To my surprise it was undamaged, so the hole was simply closed up again. More recently I have had an issue with cylinder #2 firing when it wanted to. This too is fixed. New Plugs, Wires and Caps took care of it. I still had the noise and something else unusual. The front downpipe on the right was heating up much faster than the one on the left (#2). That wasn't right. Cylinder #2 was firing correctly so it had to be another issue. Then I realised that those downpipes are "double-walled". What if there was a break internally. Here is what I found: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/DSCN0277.jpg And another view of same: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/DSCN0279.jpg Note the break that extends almost the whole way around the internal pipe. Newish downpipe from eBay demonstrated two differences .... Firstly, it had no break, so a good sign Also, the new pipe had a thin but unbroken layer of carbon completely coating the inside. This is normal. As you can see from the pictures the carbon layer is broken, and feathers towards the crack. There was some serious upset in the gas-flow in this pipe, and could be the equivalent of an exhaust hole causing lean condition and an idle that could be reluctant to fall to normal when the motor was very hot. So ... All bolted up, engine running quietly and smoothly, and no rattles. Hope this helps. -
Any way to fix a small leak in the top forward right side of the collector without having to drop the entire system????
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I am having a very noticeable rattle under the bike and I am trying to determine if it is a loose baffle. I have another collector that I had a sleeve welded on where one of the pipe connections had broke off and when I look into the muffler tube hole I can see what looks like a baffle. When I stick a foot long rod in and peck on the baffle, it is solid. When I pulled the right muffler off, where the knock seems loudest, and did the same thing on the collector on the bike, it also seems to be mounted solid. It there another baffle in there that I am not seeing or feeling that could be loose? RandyA
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Back in 2006 someone posted a link to an aftermarket 4 to 2 exaust collector without the "will break off baffle" for the first gens. this is that link-- http://markspipe.com/index.htm and I couldn't find anything about it! Besides cutting it open and re-welding it, does anyone know if this aftermarket collector is still made? Thanks Bill, P.S. glad you got your phone dried off Dano, kind of fitting RICE helped recover a Jap phone!
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Hi ... I have my collector box off. Contrary to popular wisdom, removing it was quite quick and easy, no doubt helped by one of the front header stubs being completely fractured. I thought the collector had the infamous rattle, but apparently not, when I shake it, it's silent. So ... I need to get the stub weded back on, and a couple of small cracks closed up, which will be easy enough. My question is about gaskets. There are six, and they are expensive. There are two part numbers 3JJ-14653 and 3JJ-14623. Boats.net lists them separately at $15.72 and $25.85 respectively. Cheapcycleparts.com also lists them, but has replaced the 14623 part number with 14653. This is a significant bonus, if their substitution works. Does anyone know, and can confirm, that these two part numbers can be substituted, or not? Thanks
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On my way to Marcarl's this spring, I ran over something that did a job on my exhaust collector (on the highway at 70mph). Ended up with two fairly large holes on the botom, one with a large dent. Carl tried a patch but that did not hold. I tried more patching with some muffler cement and again, the heat and pressure blew holes in the patch areas. Any reason why I can't weld a patch in place? How important is it to try to straighten out the indent before patching? All comments appreciated!
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Hi Well since last yr when I would start my 83 VR I got a loud rattle from down under the bike. So today I took off the exhaust collector. I think it came off in a fare amount of time about 30 mins, So I made 3 cuts and folded the flap open. took out the screen that was loose. Now hears where Im not sure about something. On the inside there is a layer of screen that is tight to the skin or the top of the collector. It dosent feel or look loose can I leave it and weld the collector back up? Or should I try to get it all out? Also should I drill holes in the corners that I cut to stop any cracking before I weld? Thanks Bull463:fingers-crossed-emo
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I got the collector off, cut it open and removed a bunch of loose baffling, also noticed that the left side exit pipe had a crack where it is welded to the collector body, the crack was about 3/4 of the way around. I took it to a local welder, he fixed the crack and welded a new stainless steel plate over the opening, and also rewelded all of the tacks that hold on the chrome covers. $30, not too bad! Also decided to remove the airbox, clean the oil out of it, and remove the breather tubes. I used a rubber tube with a 90 degree bend off of the "twinkie" so the hose exits to the side with a filter on it. I also drained the oil down to half way in the sightglass, that should help. I just got it back together, and it runs smoother than before, and sounds great, a deeper sound, and no rattling or leaking sounds. I'm really surprised that these changes would make such a difference to the way the bike runs, it's a lot smoother. Is it possible that removing the breather tubes and fixing the exhaust leaks could make it run better? Removing the collector was not a hard job, I only broke 1 clamp bolt, the rest were ok. If your thinking about tackling this job, get to it. Next project, installing the Road King pipes! I can't wait to see what they look and sound like. Briley. -
Never again will i remove an exhaust collector from a MKII. finally after TWO years of dealing with "life", i got back to my 86vr. lost my "religion", 14 times, before i got the blamed thing off! NOW! if you haven't had your MKII collector off, you might need to do a double check. mine has rusted out/through, about 3/4 of the circumference on ALL 4 exit pipes.only option is to take it to work and fabricate all new connections. one good thing!!!!!! my baffles are all still good! lol just jt
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I'm working with a local custom exhaust shop on a collector replacement. It will be two pieces, one for the front/rear left cylinder banks, and another for F/R right cylinders. The original collector acts as a crossover for all cylinders, would my system cause any tuning issues? I will post info and pics as we progress. Thanks, Briley.
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Just got off the phone with Mark, builder of the after-market collector for the VR, and what an awesome guy. It is apparent this guy knows his way around the Yamaha V engines and was a heck of a conversationalist as well. I should have a new collector for my bike within three weeks and then the madness begins bbaaawwaahhahhhaaaa ,,,cough cough cough -
I just recieved my collector plates from ICBC for my 86 Venture. now I basically get to ride the same way and same places for 1/4 the cost of insurance Ya baby:thumbsup:
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Well we are trying to get the engine out of my 84 so that we can fix 2nd gear. Right now the problem is that we cannot get the pipes to separate from the collector. Tail pipes are off but the front and rear exhaust pipes just will not come loose. Afraid of breaking the collector and it appears to be in good shape. Any ideas? Is there a trick? I already broke one of the bolts trying to loosen the clamp on one of them. (gonna be looking for a clamp probably) At least that clamp is loose now. :-) -
Just put the collector back on the bike last night from the repair, just had to fire it up without the mufflers....... it was 11:30 PM, inside the garage.......thought I had my sons small block Camaro in there with headers only! Skip 12 hours till today, was getting ready to re-hang the mufflers when I decided to run up and get gas first. WHAT AN EYE-OPENER! First , the local neighborhood Harley guys are now EXTREMELY jealous! You know, the ones who run straight pipes and think their stuff sounds good. Let me tell you, they don't hold a candle to a Yammy V4 with the open collector! As far as performance, lets just say that my clutches are tight, but not with this puppy opened up! Any amount of hard throttle would bust them right loose, kinda glad 'cause I didn't want the front end off the ground with the wind we have blowing right now. She sounds really good anywhere from 4-6 grand, you really don't notice you're running those higher RPM's it sounds soooooo good! Might just have to build a set of straight pipes like CTraylor did and let the wife get used to it......... Really don't want to put them back on..........
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