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Showing results for tags 'cold'.
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I know the obvious answer is when it is wet and below 32 degrees. From a safety stand point, when do you consider it too cold to ride. I am not looking at hypothermia impact. I am trying to figure out tire traction impact. Thanks, Bob
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Upper Wind deflector for 06 RSTD
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Does anyone have information on good looking & functional upper wind deflectors for a 06 RSTD? I am trying to block the cold wind off of my knees. -
Ok I need help from all the motor heads.. I am at my wits end...I have a 2004 f 150 ford heritage , 6 cylinder 4x4 with a 5 speed in it (117,000 MILES ON IT)....my temperature gauge reads normal for a while(20,30 miles) then will go to cold, then back to normal, then will fluctuate back and forth about every 8 miles from normal to cold....I DO NOT lose any heat and the truck seems to run normal...I had a new thermostat installed about 2 weeks ago and all seemed well until today when it started doing it again.... I drive 30 miles to work. It did it once or twice today on the way to work but on the way home it did it about 10 times....I don't know enough about these things and an a little nervous driving it.. is there a sensor I should be looking for?.. Is it safe to drive? will I damage something driving it back and forth to work? Thank you for the help in advance....
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Our Saturday CHIRSTmas ride is on... OK.. a small cold front came through but I am ready .... Every freezing mile will be in honor of those who prefer to keep that white stuff on the ground instead of the freezer like we do..
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So I have rode my scoot a couple of times this week and it was in the 20's, Had the carhart bottoms on and it was a nice ride. The temp gauge came up to operating temp just fine. It got almost to 50 today so of course I jumped on the scoot and with no kids and wife was gone I figured I would go get some shopping done. So got out there avoided the mad cars and shoppers at the mall and on the way back home the temp gauge didn't move. Not a thing bike ran fine but no gauge. So I got on the site and looked some things up and as I was checking for wires popping off and grounding the gauge and it jumped to the top. I left the bike running and hmm it came up to op temp just fine. All I can Fig is that it was cold enough to keep it down on the scale as I was riding home but man it was nice. I will have to say Christmas shopping is almost fun when you can ride. Just stay out of the way of the 4 wheelers, There Nuts!!!!!!
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My 84 is getting harder to start. I thought it was the cold, then the hi-test gas. I run regular in it in the cold months for it's lower flash point. Now regardless of the temp or gas it takes a while to get it started. I think the ignition module (original so far as I know) is on it's way to the trash can. Opinions please!
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Capt-D "Derrick" and myself took a nice cold ride around lake O this morning and put on about 190 miles I hope to do it more often but it has to warm up.
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My wife left a note on the fridge... "It's not working! I can't take it anymore; I've gone to stay at my friends!" I opened the fridge, the light came on and the beer was still cold... What the hell is she talking about?!!
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Hey everybodye! Looking forward to MD next weekend. Hope to meet many of you then. Quick question...I've got an 83, and I've noticed that I have to use the choke from a cold start almost all the time. The bike always starts...but if its a "cold" start, or what I mean to say is that the bike has not been started in a day or two, I have to use that choke. At least 3/4 of the way on to full. Quite a bit I think. But like I said the bike starts right up, so I don't have any real complaints. After the engine is run at idle for 2 or 3 minutes, it runs just fine. I'm just curious if this is pretty normal? Or should I be looking into fixing this some how? Thanks all,
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Sunny and 20 celcius in Winnipeg!!! Cold and snowing here in Vancouver!!! geeeeesh!!!
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Kreg was kind enough to offer up his place and oh so willing assistance to do a little wrenching, and hammering on the new FJR. It was cold! Thanks my friend!
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My son is out in Sasketewan just north of North Dakota I believe. They are somewhere near minus 40 out there. He says the truck he is driving ( 1993 Dodge Dakota oddly) is making a lot of creaks and growls when moving. I assume the suspention and maybe the tires, from what he has told me. We, and the truck, are used to wonderful west coast weather not freezing cold like they have out there.... that being said it is about 20 degrees F with a foot of snow on the ground here, the coldest we have seen in a decade or so. You guys out there think it is just the grease and joints on the old beast freezing up on her? Was there something I should have been doing to the beast before the kid took her out there? Lighter gear oils? Differant greases? Differental oils? It is a 4X4. I usualy have a good idea when it comes to automotive questions but the cold experiance is new to me. Thoughts? Will it eas up as it warms up? Thanks guys
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I appear to be having an issue with Number 2 Cylinder. Gas mileage is not what I think it should be ... low thirties rather than at least high thirties, and I have long suspected that one or more cylinders isn't pulling it's weight. On a recent ride home of about 90 miles, the rev counter started misbehaving. It would be steady at 4000 then drop to zero for short periods, jumping again to 4000 rpm. That is entirely consistent with #2 Cyl. cutting out and in. From a cold start, the exhaust to #2 remains cold. It will start running once it's revved a bit, but it's inconsistent. So there clearly is an issue with that cylinder. It could be any one or more of a number of things and I'm happy enough to pull it apart to find out what. I plan to replace all the plugs, wires, plug caps as a matter of routine. I can easily diagnose a failed coil but I was wondering if I should be looking deeper than that. As I understand it the only other parts in the system are the TCI and the Pick-Up Coils. Does the failing Tach indicate anything that might pinpoint the problem? At the moment I am seriously considering the TCI upgrade too. I may well simply start by replacing the diodes in the original, but I can't help thinking that a long term fix is going to be the upgraded unit Dingy was selling. Any thoughts? -
Hi all, thanks for letting me post. Bought a 99 royal star venture couple months ago. always had a little problem being "cold natured". Since it's cold, I decided to change oil, etc. and try to chase down problem with starting. It is getting worse. I have run battery down several times. Here is what I know: New plugs, getting plenty fuel, good compression, good battery, everything else seems in order. Pulled rear new plugs and no fire/spark. No loose connections at coils. When bought, key was bent slightly, straightened that out, but ignition never felt correct. Also, it's getting worse as I said, now it wont start at all. Thank you for any help in advance. I am limited on technical knowledge. -
This blonde that I work with, came back to work today. She was carrying this big stainless steel Thermos, and wearing a big smile. So, I asked her, "did you get that for Christmas?" "Yes. My daddy bought it for me. Do you know what it is?" She replied. Playing along, I said, "Why don't you tell me about it." She says, "It is called a Thermos. It is a truly amazing device, scientifically speaking!" "Really. What does it do?" I said, figuring this had to be good. "My daddy says it keeps hot things hot and cold things cold" she bragged. "What have you got in it?" I inquired. "Popsicles and coffee" she answered, with her most innocent smile.
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I jumped on the bike this afternoon and took it for a quick ride down to my buddies place. It is only about 7 miles away, so I didnt put on the chaps, just threw on a stocking hat, gloves and my columbia winter jacket. Temp was low 40's, so it wasnt too bad. At about 80 mph on the highway my legs got cold though (no lowers). But that little ride sure did perk me up. I dont think Ive ever ridden a bike here in SD in december. The sun was about right here at 3:30 so I thought I'd snap a pic with my phone. I thought it turned out really good.
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The bikes are soon going into cold storage. I read someplace that it is good to wash and dry the bike (dedicated to the bike leaf blower) and then use spray wax. You do not wipe it off. I plan on using Ice wax. Yeas or nays? Just to save the responses I also plan on an oil change and Seafoam or Stabil in the tank.
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ok so i ahad this situatino last year with bike not warming up well. Warm wweather started and bike runs like a champ. Synched and idled correctly atill had popping on decel. tried the mixture screws with the idle drop procedure and all pilots acted as if they were clean. Now first cold day and 4 miles before she warms up completely. I start her on full chole and high odle for 1 minute then let her low idle for 2 start pulling off on half choke and she starts coughing and spitting and I have to feather the clutch manytimes to keep her from stalling. What is wrong here? -
Cold is a relative thing ya know.... At 65 degrees, Arizonans turn on the heat. People in Minnesota plant gardens. At 60, Californians shiver uncontrollably. People in Minnesota sunbathe. At 50, Italian & English cars won't start. People in Minnesota drive with the windows down.. At 40, Georgians don coats, thermal underwear, gloves, wool hats. People in Minnesota throw on a flannel shirt. At 35, New York landlords finally turn up the heat. People in Minnesota have the last cookout before it gets cold. At 20, People in Miami all die. Minnesotans close their windows. At 0, Californians fly away to Mexico . People in Minnesota get out their winter coats. At 10 below zero, Hollywood disintegrates. The Girl Scouts in Minnesota are selling cookies door to door. At 20 below, Washington DC runs out of hot air. (Ya think? Nah.). People in Minnesota let their dogs sleep indoors. At 30 below, Santa Claus abandons the North Pole. Minnesotans get upset because they can't start the snowmobile. At 40 below, ALL atomic motion stops. People in Minnesota start saying..."Cold enough for ya, eh?" At 50 below, hell gets snow flurries. Minnesota public schools will open 2 hours late. At 60 below, hell freezes over. Minnesota wins the Super Bowl.
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Cold weather riding with a Tall Wide Clearview, Buddy's knee wind deflectors and extra clothing makes for a fun ride.. near 32'F and 0'C today, high winds meh.. gotta get out when the going is good.. All works well but my radio decided to play silly bugger.. Here's what I experienced, and I am hoping it's really only because of the cold.. Riding down the road, the LCD panel would go out and come back on.. flicker.. stay on for a while and go off.. not bump related, not turn related.. just does it at odd times.. then it changed channels on it's own.. and of course its on that type of channel ya just hate to listen to but the controller won't let you change channels.. it's locked in on that one.. argh.. now what? Silence is golden after that. However, I get the bike back into the heated garage and I cannot duplicate the problem.. argh.. Touch and yank and jiggle everything I can reach, bang on this pull on that and nothing.. it works all perfect.. Can't duplicate it in the garage.. On another note, I added speaker baffles behind the speakers recently and wow, I didn't think they would make that much of a difference.. but the sound is richer coming out of the speakers.. more dynamic.. not bad for 8 bucks a pair of foam baffles..
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Looks like I have to go abroad for 12 months Any tips on storing a bike for 12 months. Any issues with leaving it in cold storage? Could get 25 degrees below zero in the winter. Any tips or recommendations are appreciated
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Since I had the brilliant idea to change jobs and am now working nights, it sure would be nice to have a reliable starting bike in the mornings when it gets cold out there. When it gets cold she acts like a car with a dead battery, makes a half hearted attempt to turn over and stops, it'll do that again when I hit the starter button again. Then if i hook up the charger to jump it it'll turn just fine, still hard to start though. It has done this since I've owned it. battery is good upgraded battery cables starter contact was clean and dry but I pulled it loose and sanded the cable, washer and nut. 12.67V with ignition off 11.7V with ignition on 10.6V with starter engaged 13.37V with 2000RPM Like I said, don't want to be sitting in the parking lot at 0630 when I'm dead tired and not be able to start the bike when it's 30 degrees out there. I do have a set of louvered inserts I can slip into the side panels if anyone thinks that'll help. Thanks in advance
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I recently had a Baron's Tach installed on my 08 RSV. Prior to installing, I set the Cold ERPM at 750 (by ear (old Submarine Sornaman Training)), after choking when starting. Once Warm (after riding 2 blocks), the warm Idle ERPM increased to around 950-1000. After installing Tach, I increased the Cold Idle ERPM to 1000. Once Warm (after riding 2 blocks), the warm Idle ERPM increases to around 1150. Is 1000 ERPM considered an optimal range? Was 750 ERPM too low?
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Hi, Ive searched for this problem but didnt find any specific info. I have an 83, with twenty thousand miles. My oil light comes on, even though my oil level is correct. Ive done the cc vent to atmosphere, and that cured the burping thing that was going on. The oil light starts out, off at a cold idle, but will usually come on, after a few minutes riding, then will go off again usually after about twenty mins or less of riding. It will also tend to come on, if I corner and lean a lot. I dont ride it hard , so heavy acceleration isnt turning it on. I think, perhaps there is a cause and its thus, while cold idling, the bike has lots of oil in the sump, so the lite if off, after thirty seconds or so, some of that oil is up in the engine and since its cold, doesnt drain back to the sump correctly. After the twenty or so minutes, the oil is so hot that it drains back quickly thus curing the oil lite. If this is true, then I would benefit from putting in a lighter oil, but it appers that there is general agreement that 15 forty diesel oil is about what I would want. Would there be any benefit to running a cleaner of some kind in the oil, just prior to changing it, I dont even know if this exists, but am asking and if you know a brand name lets hear it. I have also, read about re soldering the cmu, since I dont know about that,are there any instruction on line on how to do that. I actually also have the brake lite coming on rarely. I know there is plenty of brake fluid in it so I assume that is a re solder item also. I also have read something about checking the sending unit and wiring for the oil level light. If someone can tell me how to use the MM to check it I would very much appreciate it , or better yet send me to the url to check it is. Thanks in advance guys, I am pretty hep on how to work on the xs11 bikes, but this venture is quite new to me.
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I'm looking for a cooler to fit in a 2nd gen saddlebag... you know... doesn't leak, keeps beverages cold. Anyone got something that works well?
