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Showing results for tags 'coils'.
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I want to get my hands on old coils that anyone has taken off when suspecting them to be bad. Interested in coils from any models, but particularly 2nd gens. I have an old automotive oscilloscope that I want to use to try and identify what the "normal" cause of the failure is, and if there is anything we can do about it. In addition, I would like to see if I can devise some sort of test that anyone can use (without a scope or special tools) to accurately identify a bad coil. If you have changed one or more and are just going to toss the old coils, will you please send them to me instead? PM me and I'll send you my address. You can just slip one or more into a free Priority Mail flat-rate envelope (no weight limit) for $4.95. I'll gladly send you the $5 postage. Goose
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Hello all, Been a lurker for the last year and I'm finally posting as I need some help and couldn't find the answers I was after in prior posts. I'm afraid my V4 thinks it's only a V-twin! Forgive me that this will be rather long, as I want to give complete information in hopes that will be better able to assist me. Background: I have an '89 VR (Cali model, if it matters) that I bought almost exactly a year ago and have been slowly restoring and returning to road duty on a budget. Approximately 34,000 miles. When I bought the bike it would only run on full choke, and poorly at that. Previous owner bought it that way as a project. He attempted the shotgun cleaning method but that didn't work, then he lost interest. I have no other prior service history, though I can see that a lot of the prior "modifications" were poorly executed, so I have little faith in the competence of the PO (not who I bought it from) to properly repair and maintain the bike. Anyhow, I removed carbs and had a friend who operates an independent bike shop fully clean, rebuild, and bench synch the carbs. I have since installed and also installed new NGK iridium plugs. Running and performance: Bike has been running now for a few months, but not especially well. I have taken it out on a few "shakedown" rides of around 100 miles or so in hopes that riding it around would help it heal after coming out of an unknown period of hibernation. That hasn't fixed it. At start-up it fires right up on full choke but doesn't sound as smooth as I would expect and I hear a periodic popping that I believe to be pre-ignition or some incomplete combustion(???). Riding it it's a bit of a dog at first and I will have to feather the throttle some when I come to a stop (off of choke). It doesn't fall on its face when accelerating, it just doesn't feel as strong as it should. Mileage is horrible - I'm having to get gas after only around 75 miles or so. After riding for quite some distance (more than 15 miles) and especially after really flogging it on a more sustained basis, it seems to run noticeably better, although never 100% (at least I don't think). Still some popping on deceleration and doesn't always want to idle at stops if I let off the throttle. So in my estimation it seems to be running "kinda decent" at these times, though having never ridden one of these, I don't know what a properly running one should feel like. For reference I have owned several V45 Magnas, a ZX-12R (my main bike), and other inline 4's, among others. I have ridden a VMax once, but it was a number of years ago now. My memory of it is pretty limited, but my Venture doesn't feel nearly as powerful as I remember the VMax. My ZX-12R is in another stratosphere, but that's not an apt comparison. Current Symptoms & efforts to diagnose: I've had a suspicion that #4 is not firing, or at least not all the time. I'd previously used a pointable thermometer and saw the temperature (measured pointing at the jug) was significantly lower on #4 as compared to others. Unfortunately, I only ever checked this after starting the bike up in the driveway and riding up and down my street, rather than after an extended ride where it was running "better." I had also previously checked the spark plug in #4 and saw it was wet and likely fouled (cleaned, dried it, and reinstalled since it only had a couple hundred miles on it). This past Sunday I set about to figure out what was wrong, and fix it if I could. I started it up in the driveway on full choke and it fired right up. After letting it idle for a couple minutes I pulled the plug wire off of #4 - no change whatsoever. I stuffed another plug in it while it was still running and I do have spark - I both felt it and touched the plug to the engine and saw spark. I can't really say how strong, as it was in bright daylight, but I could definitely see it. More surprising to me was that I pulled the wire on #3 and had the very same outcome. I then pulled #1 and it immediately started to stumble, so I reinstalled. Didn't bother pulling #2 as it obviously had spark since the bike didn't immediately die when I pulled #1 . Pulled the plugs and inspected. #4 was wet and clearly fouled. Others were ok (not great), with the white ceramics a bit sooty, but not wet like #4 . Weirdly, #3 actually looked the best. Gapped and installed new NGK DPR8EA-9 plugs and crossed my fingers. I also checked the pilot mixture screws and discovered they were set anywhere from 3/4 out to 3 full turns out. I adjusted them all to 2 1/2 turns out as a baseline based upon what I read in other posts. Fired it up and it was no different. Could still pull the plug wires off of #3 & #4 without any effect. I probably should have taken the bike out and really run it before starting all this, but I didn't. Was thinking instead about having to work on a hot engine. Next I did a compression test. 1=190; 2=195; 3=195; 4=175 (eventually). So, #4 was lower and slower to pump up. No idea if/when valve lash has ever been inspected/adjusted. I see that it requires a special tool and shims, neither of which I have. I now suspect this may be at least part of the cause of my problems, but 175 psi still seems like it should be more than enough compression to support combustion. I continued on with checking ignition components, thinking the trouble may lay there. Holy hell what a job to get to the TCI and coils. I checked resistance on the pickup coil at the plug and all tested wires were within spec. I then checked primary resistance on the ignition coils and all 4 were in spec. at 2.9 ohms. I then checked secondary resistance by inserting a probe into plug cap and got the following resistance numbers: 1=22.5; 2=24; 3=22.1; 23.7. At first these numbers alarmed me as they are all much higher than the 15 ohm maximum specified in the service manual, but then I read that the plug cap should be 10 ohms itself +/- 10%, so if I subtract this out, all three coils are in spec for secondary resistance as well. I suppose I could remove the wires from the coils and try to test at the coil directly, but access is limited and I know I'm getting (at least some) spark to all 4 cylinders. Let me say I am not at all excited at the prospect of pulling the upper fairing to change out coils unless it is absolutely necessary. Considering they all test about the same, I'm thinking they're ok, but you guys are the experts on these bikes, not I. Those numbers also lead me to think the wires and ends must be (at least) ok too (I took apart plug wire and end for #4 and everything looked fine (no green corrosion), then I clipped a 1/4" off both ends of the wire and re-assembled). I got the TCI out of its stock location as well. From what I've read these can be the source of all kinds of poor running conditions as they start to fail. It is weird to me that when they fail it is not a complete failure, as that has been my past experience with CDI's. I can't help but wonder if this magic black box is the source of my problems. I did open the cover, but wasn't brave enough to dig out the soldering iron and desolder the pins to the main plugs just so I could look at the top of the motherboard and the diodes that are known to fail. My understanding from reading past posts is that if the TCI is not working properly, there's no fixing it. The diode replacement and resoldering of various connections is only preventative maintenance on properly functioning units. So my thinking was to leave it alone for now, since if it's broke I can't fix it, and if it ain't broke, I might just screw it up with my extremely limited soldering skills. It would certainly be helpful to have a known good one to plug in to rule in/out the TCI as a problem, but alas I do not have one and ones on ebay aren't cheap (for what may be junk anyhow). I've read about the Ignitek computer, but I don't know what my long-terms plans are for the bike and am concerned about budget. Besides, I don't want to just go throwing parts at it - especially expensive ones. I also checked to see if there's fuel getting to all 4 carbs and there is. I opened the drains on each of them and got full bowl's worth from each. So I'm not really sure where to go next with it. Based upon the compression test, I am wondering if valve adjustment should be next, though candidly I was hoping to avoid this job. I welcome suggestions, comments, offers of help, commiseration, jokes at my expense as the FNG, and further questions. I've done a ton of other work on the bike and I'm really anxious to have it finally "done." If I can ever get it running properly, I can turn my attention to the non-functioning cruise control (Grrrrr) and do a final "detailing" of the bike, before planning some longer trips. Thanks all for your patience in reading along, and thanks in advance for your assistance. [P.S. - If I have placed this post in the wrong folder, please feel free to move it and let me know where it should've been in the first place] -
I bought this Venture Royale last spring and it ran great. Near the end of the season, Every time I would hit a bump it would lose it's oomph. The electric didn't go away just stumble on it's self and then pick back up. It did this intermittently. At the end of the season, My buddy and I went through the carbs as we thought it may be a carb issue. Didn't hurt. We found some clogged jets so it was worth it. After getting it back together, the bike just had no power from idle to full throttle. We started to check fire and found none at #1 and #3. This is my second bike the first ever was a 69 Honda dream which started out as pieces and parts in a box that I acquired when I helped a little old lady move. My wife and I enjoy riding very much so we would like to get it back up and going. I just need to know where to start. I wouldn't think ou could lose two coils at one time, so I'm thinking possible loose connection some where between pickup coil and coils. Any suggestions? aaaerstowr Fremont, NE
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I have a few extra coils up for grabs, ask and they are yours!!
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well put in igntec computer the 5 month. had carbs rebuilt and seen them in pieces and looked at all pieces. drove it 250 miles a while back went out the next day front right not firing at all cold pipe. took computer out and checked ohms at plugs 109 at pickups and 2.5 for coils. pulled off plug cap. cant remember how to check. where can a person buy one at and is the wire replaceable. and i read some where that the coils could be cracked and test good just not fire. is this true? the cap looks damaged just not sure. any ideas
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Ok, we all know that on 1st Gen coils, you can eaisly remove the plug wire from the coil, and the spark plug cap. On the 2nd gen coils. the plug wire appears to " NOT " be removable, ( or replaceable ) from the coil end, of the plug wire. SO-- I was looking at my right front Ignition Coil on my 08, yesterday, and where the plug wire go's into the Coil, it appears as if there is a " Sealant " applied around the wire where it mounts into the coil. What I am getting at here, is I would like to replace the Plug Wires, with some type of " Shielded Spark Plug Wires " . Anyway, so I am wondering if maby I Could remove , and replace the wires from these coils. Does anybody, have a Used ( ie: removed and replaced coil ) laying around in their garage. If So, any chance I could get you to take the old coil, and pull " out " the plug wire, and take some close Ups, of what the hole looks like, and what is inside the hole after you pull out ( ie: remove ) the old plug wire. I hope this all makes some sence, any way thanks to anybody who might be able to accomplish this, I'm working on " Reduceing " Ignition Noise on the AM radio I have installed on my RSTD. And installing Shielded Plug wires might be of some help. ---------------------------------- Next Qustion : ??? Just curious, has anybody, Installed the 1st Gen Ignition Coils, on a 2nd Gen Bike ???? this would obviously solve the plug wire problem, if the coils will work on the 2nd gen bike . I make this point, because it very easy to replace wires on the 1st gen coils, and lots of them avialable, I allready have two of them, and would only have to find 2 more to do the job, if this is possible. ?? --------------------
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A couple months ago, I was reading some posting, concerning Ignition Coils ! Question: ? Sombody made mention that on his 2nd Gen, ( don't remember what year ) he had changed the Ignition Coils to some kind of Plug Over type Coil. ?? I assume he used coils from some other type of bike. Does anybody, know, or remember which member this was who made this posting ?? I have this type of Ignition Coil set up on my Busa, and am very interested is makeing this modification to my 08 RSTD if this is possible. Anybody remember this information, ???? I'm thinking that this mod might help reduce " Ignition Noise" in the AM radio system ?? ( well, maby it will ) :detective:
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Are the plug wires screwed into the coils the same way the caps screw to the opposite end, or are they just pressure fit into the coils?
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I'm going over my 87 Standard, trying to resolve this miss that the ol' gal acquired. While I'm at it, I'm changing the carb diaphragms, which has needed done for a while, small holes in the first two I changed out. (A much easier job than I thought it'd be) I got a set of replacement spark plug wires, and a set of used coils on the way just in case I need one. The coils don't seem easily accessible, and I'll need to get at them to replace the wires, and I'd like to check the coils themselves while I'm at it. Do I need to remove the entire fairing, or can I get at them by removing the battery or what? I'm sure if I do a search I'll find the checkout procedure for the coils, but if anyone knows the quick and dirty on that, please lemme know. I'll also take a look at the plug for the TCI that I've seen mentioned so much. Any info on not making more of a job of this than need be would be appreciated. Thanks. -
I have 4 coils on one of my parts bikes and would like to pull them and keep them in case somebody needs them. Is there a way/procedure to test and check them off the bike or on the none running bike ?
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I found out something very interesting today. My 2005 Ford Escape died on the side of the road. (Yes I know what FORD stands for!) It seemed like it was being starved for fuel..but I checked and the pump and the filter were just fine. So I had it towed to the dealer. It seems the platinum plugs that are supposed to be good for over 100,000 km (60,000 miles) are NOT! In fact...what happens is as the plug wears, the gap increases. This causes the coils (one for each plug) to work harder which in turn causes radio frequency interference which fries the main computer. So...my dead truck cost me -6 new plugs at $8 each. -6 new coils at almost $100 each:mo money: Plus the new PCM or TCI or whatever they call the main computer a$1,125 (or if could try and find a used one at $750) To change the rear plugs and coils they have to remove part of the intake manifold so lots of labor and a gasket to boot. Total cost of the repair? $2,550.00:mo money: All because of worn out plugs. (my truck only has 90,000 km) The mechanic is the son of a family friend, and he suggested the main computer might not be fried....that I should change coils and plugs and try it. He said the bad parts could cause the computer to show as bad also. I might get lucky...but then again this is ME we are talking about. :mo money:I got it towed home and will try to do it myself.... Did I mention $2500????:crying: So there goes the international, :smile5:Friday the 13th, some safety chrome and a few other things like food and utilities for the next few months.
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Stator info and cooling kit
bkuhr posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Due to difficulty of reading the technical bulletin in the back of the parts manual in the library, I retyped the two bulletins pertaining to the stator cooling kits. Reddevilmedic with burned coils from 1-7 o'clock, does not appear to be lack of oil cooling mentioned in TA, but please make sure your outside baffel is in place under the inspection cover. The inside baffle on the stator looks correct, but there is no mention of ANY washers. Practice states stator screws are red locktite, and hand impact installed. Also I can't not see the wire (shaft 1) inside the bolt hole, pretty sure I could on mine. Stick a small wire in the hole and feel for shaft 1. 1 final interesting note, is I think I count exactly 6 burned coils, exactly 1/3 of the 3 phase stator. Possible for some reason you have one of the three phases overloaded. As the stator is directly wired ONLY to the regulator/rectifier, this leaves the options for overload limited to the RR ac volt side or the 3 white ac wires. If not already done, I suggest you remove the 3 pin connector between stator and RR. Also do the diode ohm test on your current RR. If even doubtful don't use it on another, 3rd, stator Would strongly suggest to get a clamp amp meter. When you get all back together, test each white wire with clamp meter. They should be about the same amps. Harbor freight has a couple cheap ones should workfor this test: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=clamp+meter 69166.doc 69167.doc
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Someone PLEEEEEASE tell me that there is a way to remove the ignition coils from my 89 Venture without removing ALL the front fairing!!----I thought I saw a thread on here a while back saying you could remove the battery box and air filter and remove them that way--also--how common is it to have "cracked" ignition coils--bike started running like crap and a friend suggested plug wires---got ready to replace the plug wires and noticed that the first 2 coils are cracked all the way across the top--found a complete set on E-bay--but now need help removing the old ones!!--------Thanx------Larry
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Ok Guys, Looks like I'm running on 2 cylinders.Pulled both caps off left side and no difference in idle. Left side from riders point of view. Pulled battery and box out and can see coils and TCI unit. All the screws are aimed forward so I guess you need to pull the fairing. How difficult is that. Is there anyway to pull the coils and TCI without removing it? Noticed the coils are stacked in pairs towards front, doesn't look like you can get to any of them for testing, but maybe I'm wrong. Hope so. Thanks for any light you can shed on this. Also what are the cylinder numbers and locations?
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I am working on a friends 98 Harley 1200 Sportster. It runs descent cold but as it warms it starts to backfire through the carburetor and the tail pipe. It acts like it is starving for fuel but I know it is getting fuel. I have replaced the coils with known good coils but still the same thing. Has anyone had this problem before? I know this is not a Harley forum but I need some help on this one. Thank you,,,
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My Venture won't start. I have spark on 1 and 3. Nothing on 2 or 4. I've swapped the coils around and the problem moved to 1 and 3 when I swapped the wiring from the TCI, so I know the coils are good. According to page 7-17 of the service manual, I'm supposed to have 110 ohms between the Orange and all the other wires coming off the pickups. I have 105 ohms between the Orange and red/white but 200+ ohms between the Orange and all the rest. Am I looking at a pickup issue or a TCI issue? Thanks, Jeff
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i won an auction yesterday for a tci, set of coils and boost sensor for $45.00!! off a supposedly running 83 with 29k! ya baby!
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For repairs. I've been dealing with bad gas milage for a couple years now. I've had everything fuel related checked, synced, cleaned etc. I've read about these coils going bad on occassion. Namely the number three coil. So this summer I bought a set of coils from a low milage crashed RSV for $40. I'm in the process of replacing the #3 coil. Has anyone done this themselves? If so, how the heck do you get your hands in there to replace it? I've torn up my hands to get the old one out and I almost have the new one in, but I'm having a hard time getting anything in there to tighten the screws. I've pulled the right side rear exhaust off. I moved the two metal tubes out of the way. But there is not much room for my paws. I've gone at it from the top and underneath. Any suggestions?
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I have a 1987 VR that when you hit the starter button there is a whining noise of the starter turning but not fire. Right now it is on the center stand, in neutral, kick stand up, kill switch on position. No change with the clutch held in either. New plugs New wires New TCI New Starter relay New Battery Starter checks good (have used two with no change) Following the troubleshooting guide in the maintenance manual good ohm readings on: Pickup coils Stator Coils Connectors all clean. Craig
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1st ...I have had my 87 Royale for 20+ years. And done many Mods and work. I have 30 years as an electronic tech. But I have been having this HOT idle skip. EX: been riding on a hot day. Get off the hiway to my house. Pull up the driveway. Open the garage and the idle starts missing. I can see the tach dipping..I hear the spark plug caps arcing and can see it on the right side caps(3,4) sparks to the head. AH, I replace the caps and wires to ALL coils. Stiill no help when hot. AND if I rev the bike the issue goes away for a 30 seconds then returns. I ohm out the pick up coils. All good. Primary side of the ignition coils.. test good even when HOT...OUCH. I replaced intake o-rings AND We can rule out the carbs because I had the bike EGA'd ...it's not rich... running 13.5:1 a/f @ 1000rpm. CHanged to non-resistor spark plugs vs. resistor type...no difference. Since the bike can idle smooth on first start of the day w/o choke...Thus , I think a hotter range plug will not fix this. As a cold engine is more difficult to ignite fuel. Also, I do not see a "rev limiter" wire in the schematics. Typically from the tach to ignitor. As this has been a documented problem on my Yamaha Vision. Again, if I increase revs it's good for as hort few seconds. I am thinking it the ignitor getting heat soaked OR secondary side of the 2 right coils are bad...BUT then again, reving it shiould not temp. make it run good. Any experience out there with an issue like this???
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Will the bike run if the pick up coils a are shot. My 83 will idle fine but will not pull. I followed the test procedure in the tech article and got no readings on the 6 pin connector other than the ground. (Probobly doing something wrong) The 8 pin checked out fine. All 4 cyl are firing, carb sync new fuel fileter about 2 cans of sea foam. Fuel pump will fill a cup in seconds. Cleaned the connector on the side of the frame for the pick up coils. When I kick it off the center stand and try to pull away it dies and the choke will save it from stalling. If it does stall starts right back up. Any sugestions would be much appreciated frank:confused:
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Been working on a 1976 Goldwing GL1000 and need a set of coils. If anyone has a set they are willing to part with please let me know. Thank You, Shaun
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I have a set of Denso COP coils in hand. They came out of a 2007 Honda CBR 1000. This unit would replace the larger coils used on the bike now. 129700-4840 10484 printed on coil end - 08H31 stamped in same area The Ignitech TCI module maker said it would handle the coils lower primary resistance. Going to give these a try on the bike as I am not really happy with where I had to install rear pair of coils. A little other discussion on this at link below. Started a new thread to maybe get some fresh inputs. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58797 All 4 coils primary's measure 1.4 ohms All four coils secondary's measure 13.46K ohms. How do I tell which of the 2 input terminals is the common 12V+ terminal. I can see no markings which indicate internal wiring. My meter is not sensitive enough to differentiate between 13.46K ohms only and 13.46k ohms plus the 1.4 ohms coils in series. Could I just test wire up a circuit. Put plug in & grounded. Put 12v + to one side of coil & 12v - to other side of coil (this attached to plug ground). Open negative side at coil. This seems like it should fire plug. If it does polarity guessed at correct. If not flip polarity at coil pins. It should fire if it didn't before. Schematic shows two wiring choices. Anyone see any fault with this. Picture of COP coil on head is just a random one I came across for an idea what they look like installed. Gary -
Todays project was getting the battery box fabricated and installed. Made a two piece box out of 1/8" aluminum. Mounted a front coil bracket from a VMax on the bottom. This bracket will hold the two front cylinder coils & the Vboost motor. Rear pair of coils will be mounted rear of the back heads under the fuel tank. That's tomorrows project. Using the VMax rear bracket for those. One thing that comes to mind. Don't try this at home kids !!. Unless you have a lot of patience and enjoy tinkering with stuff. Getting some of this stuff to fit up right has been a series of try it, remove it, rework it, repeat, repeat. But it is fun. I am having as good a time rebuilding this bike as I will riding it. Gary
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hi all need some advise on #3 coil not sparking. with ponch's help in troubleshooting the coil, all was in spec's but no fire. had to wait till friday and changed out the coil. now the problem is still no spark from the coil. all the others cylinders are working fine. could have i got another bad coil? i got a set of coils off a 2007 rsv from pinwall cycles a couple of years ago and never needed them untill now. anyone got any ideas. i have read all the post about coils going back to 2008, yet nothing seems to hit on my problem. thanks in advance. reguards don c.
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