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Showing results for tags 'clean'.
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While cruising the item on EBay for sale I came across this add: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Venture-Yamaha-1989-Venture-Royale-1300-Blue-Like-New-200-miles_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem588296a25dQQitemZ380148032093QQptZUSQ5fmotorcycles Does anyone believe this is really possible? A 1989 VR with ONLY 210 miles on it? It does look very clean. 3K current bid but it also has a reserve on it.
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My sons' little dodge mini van seems to have blown a head gasket. The oil is like creamy pudding. How the heck do I clean the oil system up? I know it is going to take a couple of oil changes but should I be adding a cleaner to the oil ? This van has a 3.0 liter V-6 in it.... when I went to pick up the gasket set the guy at the parts store asked me if I wanted new Head Bolts. He said the norm is to change them when doing gaskets.... they are $165 for the set. Does anyone know if I need to? This motor has about 145,000 kilometers.... about 90,000 miles Any help would be great Kevin
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I am in the process of installing cruise control on my 1983 Venture Standard. I have purchased almost all of the items I need to do this upgrade from ebay. Prior to installing the parts, I will be disassembling the ones that I can and cleaning them. I have made the following write up of the process of cleaning the clutch side switch housing that came off of a 1988 Venture. The pictures show the switch completely removed from the bike. It is fairly lengthy, 47 pictures, but thorough. I would recommend removing switch from bike if you perform this cleaning. There are a number of small springs and ball detents that are very easy to lose unless you have a large well lit working area. If you are unable to open the PDF file, PM me with your email address and I will send it to you. I have detailed the throttle side switch in another thread. Picture below is of the switch detailed in this PDF file. -
Hello from Mechanicsburg, Ohio!! I just bought an 87' Royale, and recently found this board, and reading all I can about the bike. I'm really enjoying riding the Venture, I had an 86' Honda Shadow that I rebuilt, and had a blast with, but it was a bit small for me so I sold it and got the Venture. Here are a couple of pics... http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab243/BriRit/3975d084.jpg http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab243/BriRit/f6bafb2b.jpg I got a good deal on the bike, but it does need some TLC and cleaning, some plastic is cracked or broken and I already repaired the CLASS. I've racked up $700 in new parts and have been slowly putting them on and checking the bike mechanicly as well. I haven't started to clean it up yet as all of my time has been spent wrenching, but it should clean up nicely. It runs really strong, and the previous owner had a bunch of maintenance items done before he sold it. I'm sure I will have tons of questions, and hopefully contribute a bit as well. Later, Briley.
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My first gen starts every time quick but cranks slow like a bad battery. Battery checks good, cables are clean. Is there a common problem to look at first? Battery is not new. -
When I get frisky and decide to do a good detail on my bike I take off the seats and saddle bags. The problem is with the saddle bags off the bike it's hard to keep the saddle bags stable enough to clean them. Anyone have any suggestions. I thought about maybe building a rack I could put them in while cleaning.
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Why did the manufacturer of the computer mouse replace the roller ball type with the optic type? Because it's easier to clean a mouse's feet than it's balls!
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Going to need 5 rooms next Oct., want French Quarter area, We're not rich and are looking for some place clean, near the center of things. Any suggestions?
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I was given a 97 royal star very recently that has less than 500 miles on it, though it hasnt been ran in about ten years. Its been sitting in a garage and shows it. This is the first time I have ever touched a motorcycle, though I have done a good amount of work on cars. My main concern right now is getting the bike running. When I turn the bike on before I hit the start switch I get fuel pouring out of the overflow tubes. From what I have read its pretty obvious that I need to pull the carbs and clean them, though with there being four of them the task is a little daunting with syncing and everything else involved. I know that seafoam wont work if I cant get a flow through the carbs. Here is what I am asking: 1. Is there a way to clean the carbs out without removing them? 2. Are the carbs the culprit for these symptoms? 3. How do you sync the carbs once they are all clean and back in? 4. What else should I be replacing? ( plugs, oil, oil filter, where is fuel filter?) 5. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone knows a great way to get rid of pitting thatd be awesome. Right now Im using fine steel wool and a turtle wax chrome polish and rust remover, but there are still tiny spots that I am not sure if they will come off at all. Thanks -
Does anyone have any knowledge about the Fix Cleaner? Just wondering if it works, or does someoe have another idea to help clean up a pc that is having some high cpu useages...
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Just heard that State Route #130, a toll road between San Antonio and Austin, TX, are changing the speed limit to 85 mph! Now that should be a good way to clean out your carbs! Yama Mama:225::225:
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Am re-posting my 1st Gen.Parts and acc.-------- Classifieds on page 2 ---------=NEED to clean all of these LEFT-OVER parts:----------------from projects gone-bye:group cheers::usa:
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Alright I really want to thank all of you for your help. I have narrowed it down to my front right cylinder with no spark. Pulled the plug and it is as clean as when it went in. Where do I go from here
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Ok, been a lot of conversation lately about fuel pumps and now I'm chasing a problem with mine.... me thinks. First of all the bike is in good shape and most possible issues have been addressed in the past. Fuel tank lined with expoxy. Fuel filter and petcock shows clean and free. (Opened the tank to inspect) Fuel lines have all been replaced Tank vent clear and free of obstuctions. Carbs in good working condition and fuel bowl levels at spec. Good fuel flow through system. Air filter clean. Sync done recently. Electrical connections recently checked and found to be clean and sealed. Cooling system clean and working properly. Bike is not over heating. Charging system and electrical working properly and in good condition. Different fuel bought over a week from different stations. The problem only happens when the temps are in the top end of the 90's or over 100. Everything works fine in cooler temps and no problems of any kind. What happens is the bike, at highway speeds (60 - 75 mph) after being ridden for a distance in hot temps just stalls and sputters out. It will cranks right away but needs to sit for a bit before starting again. The first time it happened I wrote it off as a possible vapor lock. The bike had been sitting out in the sun since early morning and I didn't leave work until 2:00 PM when it was 101 degrees out. I only had a gallon and a half in the tank so I figured with the heat maybe I was vaporing. After 15 minutes the bike fired up and I rode home with no furture problems. I did check the vent line at that point. I filled the tank the next morning and ran about 100 miles that day in 80 degree temps and no problems. The next day it did the same thing again with a over half a tank in temps close to 100 again. Same thing. Let it cool down for bit and ran on home. It's done the same things twice more since then in the high temps but I made note that the digital voltmeter was showing a nasty fast drop from the usual 14.2 volts to 13.5 -13.8 right as the bike started to sputter. Not normal. And again today on the Interstate when it was 97 degrees. So knowing everthing I've checked is working as it should, almost, with the sudden drop on the voltmeter just as the bike stalls out I'm starting to question the fuel pump itself. NOTE: I can't say I've seen the volt meter dropping prior to the stalling, only note it as the bike is stalling. Is it possible the pump itself is stalling out do to a heat related failure causing the drop in the volts? It functions properly when cooled off. I can not get the bike to stall while on the stand and letting it run hot. It only stalls hot and under load. Kind of got me scratching my head... Mike
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Ok here the deal. Several times the bike has cut out like it is starving or out out of gas. One time I choked it and it started but when I tried to give it gas it bogged downand died. I leave it set for a while and it starts and runs fine. Today i brought it home and pulled the tank and the air boxes. First thing I noticed was oily stuff under the rail that holds the wires down. This is left side ONLY. Right looks nice and dry and clean. Oily and messy. I pulled the plug and it is clean and dry no signs of oil blowing by it. What do I need to look fo ras the cause I am going out to walmart to buy carb cleaner and clean it all up really good then keep a close eye on it. Any help would be great. It is a 2006 with about 40,000 on it.
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My Clutch master started oozing/leaking around it's sight glass. I have ignored the crazing ugly mess for a couple of years, but this spring she started to leak. Instead of risking my plastic, I bought the watch crystal as mentioned in the other thread and decided to get to work. First, open up the master and become horrified. This goo is all over in there, which means it's in the slave and line. yay, more work ahead of me. Clean it out good, I siphoned out all the old with an old turky baster and rags. then washed it with clean new synthetic DOT3 compatible. you can see the corrosion from the water that was in the fluid. Note: change the fluid more than once every 4 years. second, get a couple of tiny thin screwdrivers and a small hammer, you can go around the outside of the old glass making a gap, to eventually get most of the old rotted plastic out. at this time the little metal piece that has a slot on it will fall out. dont worry, you will not use this anymore. Third, get a small screwdriver and start tapping out the metal insert ring that held the old sight glass assembly. go careful as you can ding up the aluminum housing easily. Finally, clean it all up with a painters prep and get a good strong solvent resistant epoxy. I used JB weld as they claim it's brake fluid resistant and I cant find others that do claim this. but it has to be fully cured, so that means a few days without contact to Brake fluid. that's it. Unless someone finds a way to put a more modern one on the bike, we cant get replacement sight glasses, and Used ones are ready to fail just based on age. I really hope this helps someone, it took me a leap of faith to do it and I freaked out when the sight glass did not fit, that's when I discovered the press fit insert you have to knock out. -
My slab infront of the garage gets pretty black every year. And every year I get the pressure washer out. Is there some biogradeable chemical that one can sprinkle on concrete slab to soak in so that a gentle spray can get it clean. Right now I end up having to get the spray very close to the concrete to get it clean. It uses a lot of water.
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Any recommendations on how to get a Trex Deck really clean. Currently I just use my pressure washer. It gets it clean ok, but there are still some dirt left behind. My Pressure Washer is rated at 3100 psi.
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Any simple way to remove the needle valve seats for replacement? Or is it a better idea to inspect and clean the ones currently installed?
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Fairly new here and just wondering how many on here are Clean and Sober?
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Trying to salvage an 83 that has been traded a couple of times and title lost. This is Tennessee and they want a title to register bike. Anybody got a clear title on a bike that is being parted out and would sell the frame and title, or at least the removable lower frame bar and a title? VIN number has been checked and it is clean, but the person that is on the title can not be found. It has probably been several years since this bike has been on the road. Already looked at the re-title companies and they want $300 to 400 bucks. RandyA -
Its no surprise thay my leather bags look weathered.I park my bike in the driveway mostly uncovered, and my bags look dull.What cam I do to clean impurities and protect out.I was thinking blavk shoe polish
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Doing a search on the forum for "Soldering" provided a lot of very good tutorials, tips and links to articles on how to solder...and how to fix the E4 error, which my 88 is experiencing All the tutorials speak of a soldering IRON. I remember my Dad had one, a big clunky beast about 10" long with a shaft about 1/2" diameter. I'm sure they come smaller but what I'm wondering is there any reason why I can't use a soldering GUN? Is there a quality issue here or some other reason everybody refers to an "Iron" and never a "GUN"? Are they one and the same as far as soldering is concerned? Am I over complicating things or is there something here I don't understand? Also, a lot of emphasis is placed on having CLEAN connectors to solder. If you have a solder joint that is bad (you can see the ring around the post) how are you supposed to clean it well enough to solder? The corrosion is probably inside the solder dome!
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just bought an 84 VXZ12: 1. need to remove the seat for a patch job - front lifts up a bit but i can't seem to get the seat off... please help 2. would like to take the hard bags off the sides and back to get the locks cleaned up and properly clean the bike... but can't seem to get them off either... please help.
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Now just what is it? Well I spent some time to make a spice rack for my wonderful wife,,, she wanted it for a long time,, but it involved cutting wood and that is not my specialty,,, but I done IT. Now of course the shop is all dusty and my Scamper is sitting there all covered in dust,,, not really all that bad, but bad enough to need a cleaning,,,,, sooooooo what better way to clean the dust off than go for a ride,,, SO I DONE IT. Didn't work so good, so maybe I have to try IT again, and ride a little longer and faster.
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