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Here goes...the mystery of Yamaha's carburetors........ 2007 RSTD XVZ1300CT Looking to repair/rebuild from the body/core up, the carburetor(s) of my RSTD. A victim of crappy CA gas and failure to drain in timely manner. Amazing how much crap gummed up everything. The gas here is the precursor for ingredient for superglue......Yes, I have learned my lesson the hardest way imaginable First, the throttle rod and both end seals are considered "NON SERVICABLE" cannot find ANY info anywhere, not even 3rd market support. Not even in the explodable parts diagrams (Revzilla, Partzilla, Chaparral etc.). Anything outside of "rebuild" kits, translates buy new carbs (est. at $1700 via dealer). Discovered this when 5 out of eight butterfly screws rounded out. Used JIS bits, ground off staked end of screws, and all of precautions etc. Enough of the woes.... What years interchangeable (if at all) are the carbs between RSV vs. RSTD. What are the differences (besides CA EPA), or, what does it take to make one work for the other? Then the BIG question is.....are those parts available for first shop repairs? I thank y'all in advance for your replies.............. .
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I want to shim the carb neeldes on my 2006 venture. Question is, when you add a shim to the needle, does it go under the c-clip on top of the teflon ring or do you slide it up the needle under the teflon piece? Thanks,
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My 1985 VR is weeping gas out of a plug on the top of carb #1. The manual is not much help. The plug is about the size of a dime and has four very small slots around the perimeter (maybe used to remove?). You can see it in the picture below (its the shiny spot next to the #1 carb throat). Can anyone help me with ideas on a fix?
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I was reading some old threads and it refers to draining all 4 carb bowls. For the sake of curiosity, how do you do it? Also, is this something that should be done at the end of the riding season for winter storage?
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After reading all the reviews on the Morgan carbtune, I went ahead and ordered one. It seems that Morgan replaced the carbtune II with the carbtune pro, which supposedly is better. Since all the info. on this site re carb synching is based on using the carbtune II, I was wondering if anyone knew if there was a difference between these two models. Thanks.
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Hi all new member and new RSV owner. Picked up an 04 with 6000 miles on it, looks great, carbs were a bit dirty and pissing gas at first. After a few cleaning attempts they opened up and the thing drove great for about 700 miles. Yesterday I started bogging down after I push it up a bit at highway speed. I lose power, stop riding, wait a few minutes then it starts again pretty fine, except it's backfiring out of the right pipe only when I rev it a bit. This leads me to believe that one of the carbs is flooding when I open up on the highway. This is a bike that sat for about 10 years unused, so I can get if something was making it's way through the fuel system. Would the ignition cables have gotten old from sitting and maybe one of them stop firing at speed all of a sudden? My next consideration is that it's all getting pretty hot. I'm not seeing any warning light, and I wouldn't be getting paranoid if I didn't notice how low the coolant was in it after buying. I topped it up with mixable coolant, but it made me realize, I've never heard a radiator fan on this thing. I've only ever had one other liquid cooled bike and that blower came on as soon as I turned the ignition key. I think I read somewhere that this one only kicks in when a sensor tells it that it's hot enough, but even after riding an hour I pull into a gas station and cut the engine, there's no blower running. Is there a chance my cooling system / warning light is not working and the whole thing is just overheating? Currently stuck in a small town on the Wisconsin/Illinois border so any insight is much appreciated. I'll probably have the tank off today in my motel parking lot but any tips or thoughts of something to look for would be a huge help, thanks! - Jesse
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Hi folks. New member here. I just picked up an '89 Venture Royale, 29K miles, overall good shape but hasn't run regularly in over a year. It's my first touring bike. I've owned an inline 4 (Kawa), two Triumph in-line twins (including my current other bike) but this is my first V configuration bike. I have what I would self-assess as intermediate/advanced mechanical ability. The bike has a couple of problems that need to be addressed immediately before getting my state inspection so I can title and register it. First: It's missing and it appears to be the right rear cylinder (don't know yet how the cylinders or numbered). It will only idle somewhat smoothly when it's warmed up, about middle of temp gauge. On the ride home, it was clearly missing, but when I hammered the throttle, the missing cylinder would start firing and it would pull like a train...an obvious difference in engine performance. Now, in the garage with the air box out, it bogs immediately at more than half throttle. I'm thinking that I have some seriously gummed up carbs, maybe a fuel system issue, but not entirely sure. Do I try to clean and clear out the fuel system with Seafoam or some other product without pulling, disassembling, and cleaning the carbs, or should I just go straight to getting those carbs off and giving them a thorough cleaning? Anyone experience something similar and what was the fix? I've printed off an excellent 1st Gen Carb Service tutorial and am confident that I can pull those carbs and give them a thorough going through...I'd just rather avoid it if I can get away with it. Second: Front braking action is decent, but not great. Certainly not as good as I'd expect. Rear braking action is virtually non-existent. Good meat on pads all around and rotors are in good shape. I've ordered sintered brake pads all-around for it, which I'll install after I'm sure I have the braking action issues resolved. My hunch is that while the bike was sitting, some air has infiltrated and my lack of brake action can be resolved with a thorough bleeding and replacing the brake fluid. So what's the best method for brake bleeding on these bikes and what else should I check to ensure I have properly functioning, reliable brakes? I've also ordered new fuel, air, and oil filters and intend to replace all the fluids to include coolant and to inspect and lube everything identified in the manual. What else should I be doing to the bike to get it back into tip-top shape? Thanks and happy to be aboard!
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Does anyone know where to get carb rebuild kits. I am having a hard time finding them. I called my local Yamaha dealers and they said it is to old. The only things on Ebay are full sets of used carbs. I an inn Grand Haven, Michigan.
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So after having a bad experience with a local shop trying to tune my carbs by ear, I decided I would tackle this myself or hopefully with some fellow VRs. So understand this, I have no mechanical background and am clueless on this. Im leaving to Colorado with my 83 first Gen in August (last week) so will be hitting this quickly. My thought is to try to do all at once. So I was looking for help from here to create a checklist of things to do. 1) first on the list is the new TCI from Dingy. After reading many post it seems like this would be a must an because I felt like some of my bikes symptoms are related. Plus it sounds way better than the possible diodes cording in the 30 year old OEM. 2) I believe it sounds like it would be wise to replace the "sliders and diahprhams" in the carb. Sounds like I need 4. Is there a current best place to order them from? 3). Plug and remove the 4 boxes of the Ycis ports. This one is still hooked up. 4) Skydocs's needle shim kit. Question is do I order 4 kits or does 1 kit take care of all the carbs. 5) sea foam of coarse. 6) I guess new plugs are in order since I have been doing the sea foam. Any recommendations what kind. Long story short, the bike ran good before shop adjusted carbs other than lower mpg. Some of the list is preventative maintaince and if I'm there might as well do it. Any suggestions would be great. I'll be ordering a Carbtune too. Last thing, anyone know someone in the Southwest Missouri (Branson) area that could mentor this process on the day of. I would certainly make it worth while. Or possibly someone wanting a Branson vacation :-). I dont care care about popping wheelies but would like to know of this "power". Mainly wanting better mpg. Good thing is there is no fuel leaks on the garage floor after riding it. I have some pro video and photo equipment and would love to document this process for other noobs like myself. Then I'll be filming my adVENTURE to Colorado too thanks in advanced.
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I stopped for gas today after a short fast run down the interstate, when I was idling waiting for a pump the left pipe starts backfiring. When I got home one of the the left carb boots had raw gas running down it. What is tke likely cause and repair. Thanks
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My 87VR always had carburation problems ever since I acquired her used at 40k miles. The last mechanic that worked on it before I gave up on other techs, and took over the full responsibility of being the only one to work on it told me that the intakes that were on the bike when i got it were the wrong intake manifolds. He said the ones on the bike were vmax manifolds that had a crossover port that the 87 xvz1300 did not have. He explained that the extra ports were sucking air that affected the air intake with the gas mixture to intake port causing the gas/air mixture feed to the spark plugs to be wrong. The end result was that the fuel burn was rich and the bike didn't idle properly and the fuel burn in the cylinder was not efficient causing poor ignition at the spark plug. It sounded reasonable to me so i gave him the OK to order the right intake manifolds. It ran a little better for a while but the same poor performance quickly returned. Then the bike died altogether. Note: The next few paragraphs are background describing my mental reference at the time If you not interested in my thought process and want to skip to the point scroll down to the paragraph heading "The Point". It was at that point that I started believing that i was the proud owner of a dinosaur too old for reliable professional service and abandoned by Yamaha since a lot of the parts i needed were no longer available. And the parts that were available were so cost prohibitive that I couldn't justify the expenditure needed to keep her alive. I was almost ready to part her out. In fact the Yamaha dealers wouldn't even talk to me about working on it since it was more than ten years old. Evidently Yamaha in their marketing strategy has decided to only stand behind their product for no longer than ten years. As much as that pisses me off I guess I can understand that they have to cater to the new money and twenty year old + bikes are past history, from their corporate point of view. But as a builder and contractor that has made my living built on my reputation of providing quality work and a man of character that stands behind his product, engineering, service and workmanship no matter how longs it been, I felt deserted and violated. So anyway I had a decision to make. Do I give up on her, Part her out and and commit her usable organs to Ebay. Or do I stand by the old girl and fight for her life even though she was on Life support and could possible already be dead. I started looking at new Goldwings, BMW 1200's, Victory Visions. The ride on the Goldwings somehow felt like a park bench, the BMW's had a nice ride but the saddle didn't fit my crouch, the vision took my breath the first time I saw it. As I was considering it as a option the reoccurring thought that popped into my mind was about if George Jetson rode a motorcycle it would be the Victory Vision. I was weighing out my options when I investigated ebay for the first time as marketing research to test the market for used 87 Venture Royal parts. My plan at that time was to generate the down payment on a new bike by parting out my 87VR. To my amazement I found out that ebay offered what Yamaha no longer did and what I needed could be won realitively cheaply on the internet ebay auction. The first Auction I won on ebay was a set of Carbs from Sean Hess (Hessforless ebay seller & member of VentureRiders.org) which I was sure was the root of my bike problems. During that transaction I talked to Sean on the phone and he told me about Venturerider.org God Bless you Sean. Well I BELIEVE THAT LIFE IS ABOUT TRIAL AND ERROR. Thomas Eidison was once asked about his failures in testing 300 and something different materials to use as the filament for the light bulb before he discovered that carbon tungsten worked. His response was, "None of those test were failures, in fact I succeed in all of those test by discovering what did not work". Dragonslayer philosopy: Failures are learning experiences you can profit by. Am I rambling? The carbs didn't fix the problem so I timidly entered a tech thread that seemed to be related to the problems that I was experiencing and asked for help as a newby to VR.org. GeorgeS (my VR.org hero) responded offering his assistance. Typical of what I have since discovered is the nature of this club and it's members he selflessly committed his considerable time addressing and walking me through troubleshooting and fixing my bike. God Bless you GeorgeS, God Bless you VR.org each of you one and all. With his help and others we breathed new life into her. With all of that said I'll get to the point. She ran better than she ever did. Well enough for me to feel good enough about her to break her down for a new paint job and going over which I completed just in time to make the Clay18 Bike presentation. Which was the first time I had met any of ya'll in person. Muffinman stepped up at that event to offer to sync my carbs in the parking lot. An offer I deeply appreciated and humbly accepted. Even though I felt that I had managed to get the sync fairly close judging by her improved performance. I was floored to discover from muffinmans carb sync that the intakes were still sucking outside air and as Muffinman explained it, meant that the current efficiency was equivalent of operating on 2 1/2 carbs instead of four. Evidently I still had some work to do. I limped thru last summer diagnosing low compression problems on one cylinder, chasing Ohm demons through the electrical and electronic systems then finally starter clutch failure on top of the never resolved carb problems. So I committed to another ground up going over including a new to me, used 9000mile 1990 model engine. During that process i won a ebay auction for a November 1986 issue of Cycle Magazine which evaluated the 1987xvz1300 Venture Royal with technical changes from 1986 to 1987. The Point One of the technical points the article mentioned was larger carb bores from the 34 mm mikunis to 35 mm mikunis in 1987. And I quote, "These measurements come from the carb's mouths- at the venturis, the jump is even bigger: 30.3mm in 85, 31.6mm in 86. To even out the mixture, both pilot and main jets grow larger this year yet fuel consumption remains remarkably close to the numbers from our last test unit." When I first read that information it didn't mean anything to me. During the history of my ownership and the foregoing background dialog I have ended up with three different sets of intake manifolds. All of which look exactly the same visually. But on the work bench they got mixed up. Then as I was preping carbs to mount on new motor I noticed that some seemed to fit tighter on carb mouths than others.:lightbulb:I Got out the ruler and guess what? There is a measurable difference in the opening (Where carb throat inserts in intake boot.) size between the three different sets of Intake manifolds/boots. is it possible that my problem all along was that the intake manifolds were not the same year as the carbs therefore the clamps did not fully constrict the boots around the carb throats and therefore not completely sealing or preventing air being sucked through that incomplete seal. I have no clue what year carbs I bought off ebay nor do I know what year each set of intake boots are. I figure that I will us the tightest fitting set to mount to this new (to me)1990 motor. Then the next question occurred to me that I would welcome some input on... I wonder how many internal carb changes might have occurred between whatever year carbs I have and the 1990 motor I'm getting ready to mount them to and to what degree will those changes adversely effect the performance of the 1990 motor potential performance. These carbs just got brand new diaphragms and fuel enrichment/air cut off diaphragms if I'm gonna need to change jets to match 1990 engine I rather do it now while they're on the bench instead of putting it all back together and having to do it later.
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Can someone please tell where I can purchase a set of the Carb Sync gages?
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Gents, I broke a plastic part while removing my carb rack and it is not listed on the parts sites. The part is an elbow that connects a small rubber hose to the bottom of the carb. The hose is listed as call-out #47. The elbow is pictured without a call-out number. I don't know if this part can be removed! Any help will be appreciated . . .
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I had to disassemble (again) the carbs off of this doggone 83 I have been messing with. Upon reassembly I found I am now missing the idle mixture screw. It was there when I took the carb apart, but have somehow lost it. I have the small spring but not the needle itself. I just spent about 2 hours looking all of the garage for this needle but with no luck. My reason for posting is to find out if anyone knows where one can be purchased. I just checked a couple websites and I don't even see this carb part listed. Or, if anyone has not they are willing to sell, I would be more than happy to buy it from you. I appreciate any help I can get with this matter. Thanks
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Does anyone have a carb sync tool I could borrow or possibly buy? I took the carbs off the bike to do the valve adjustment and I cleaned up the carbs some too. When i got them back on and the bike running it pops out of the right pipe. When i take the little rubber boot off of the sync nipple it'll rev up momentarily but there really is no change. Took a little Brake parts cleaner and sprayeed it in the hole and she smoked a little but never idled up or down. I dont trust any of the shops in my town and I know i need the carbs synced. I'm just hoping it'll take care of the problem
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I'm wondering what effect this condition has on my poor gas mileage problem, and what it means. I took the diaphram covers off the carbs. All of the diaphrams had 2 to 5 pin holes in them, plus Carb 1 (left front), 2 (Left rear) and 3 (Right front) as your sitting on the bike, all had a film of dry dirty, greasy coating the inside surface of the covers, and the carb surface behind the diaphrams. The diaphram had a sticky feel to it like wet paint. ( probably partially disengrating rubber coating from previouse pin hole fixes with liquid rubber) [ATTACH]71649[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71650[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71651[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71652[/ATTACH] #4 (right rear) was cleaner and wet with gas:confused24:
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Just looking for everyones take on the carb slide vacum hole location when reassembling carb slides on my 87. It looks like they should point down at 6:00.
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I just picked up an 85 with carbs removed. I am not sure if i have all the hoses correctly routed and the book is no help. I also need some help on how to best press the carb bodies back onto the boots by myself in 40 degree weather. I see only 3 hoses on the upper section coming from under the seat that i believe should connect to the 4 carb air vents on the carb bowls that are on a 45 degree angle. I do have the 4 little drain hoses on the bottom. I also have the canister on the left side that is not completely connected. Any help with all these hoses would be appreciated I have worked many bikes but do not see how i can easily press these carbs back into place. Any suggestions besides brute force?
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This time of year alot of people will be doing various things to their bikes or other equiptment, in order to get them ready for next year... Make sure you wear proper saftey gear for the job at hand... Specifically....saftey glasses. I just got a shot of carb cleaner in both eyes after having worn them all day. Really wanted to paint my 612 Dozer blade today, had it all stripped down and took the glasses off (they were fogging up) to finnish up the corners and hard to reach areas with my scaler. When i went to clean the debri off of the scaling gun, you guessed it, the carb cleaner went in to my eyes and right now I'm hoping the damage is not permanent... Wear the saftey gear all the time, and above all else .... Know when to call it quits...
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Hello All, First I have searched to no avail for Gen II carb diaphragm replacement vendors or fixes. Found the thread to spray on rubber stuff:think: for a temp fix. While taking apart carbs on my 99 RSV to clean today, I may have put the carb slider cap on a TAD wrong, to say the diaphragm was pinched and a small hole is now in the material at the bend where it seats on carb body. It may have already been there, not for sure.... ANYWAY I need one. Help? Man those carbs were dirty..... Thank you in advance...Looking for new one. Directions? Also, the fuel mixture screws are obviously not set the same. Inside the throat of the carb body where the screw (or hole) is present, One is thru enough to cut yourself on, while the others are barely or not at all... I am not a carb expert. Directions to setting these properly? Thanks, James:bowdown:
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I have been a Venture fan for years and finally I recently purchased a used 2000 back in september. The carbs needed to be set up right but I did not want to do the spacer trick to them. My mechanic is designer for many tweaks and jet kits for various bikes so I went to him to talk about what to do. Since there is no true jet kit for the second gen Ventures he took my bike in on his dyno for a little R&D for a true jet kit. After numerous spins on the dyno and different needles he had a needle custom cut with 5 angles. It took the weakness out of the original lean stock set up. So after picking it up I went for a short ride today between raindrops. Road was wet and I am spinning the rear tire like crazy if I twist too much. Granted I have no trunk or bags on but whoa the rear tire let loose easy in lower gears. When I first got the bike back in september the clutch would slip at just a touch of the lever but never under power. Now it slipped with the added power till it warmed up some. Clutch needed replacement anyway and is on the winter to do list. Great pull power in every gear except I could not tell in overdrive only because I was not going fast enough. Need to get it on the highway to properly test that. Patrtial throttle response was greatly improved with instant response at a touch of the throttle. It felt like it pulled almost as hard as my Honda Magnas (12.5 sec 1/4 mile on the Magna) but I will update that when I can run my friend with his Magna. Cold start was pull choke out it starts right up, one minute later push choke in and it runs normally. That was a huge improvement over stock set up as it took a while to run normally before the jet kit. So overall this is a needed improvement for all Venure/Royal Star owners. Stock set up was way too lean. Once I can get some long runs in I will be able to determine gas mileage. I bet it is the same if not better than stock as you don't have to twist the throttle much to get it rolling more. I am also running K&N air filters and NGK Iridium plugs. Ivan knows what he is doing on these as he has many kits for older bikes that work perfect. You should see his cherry collection of 60s-80s 2cycle bikes in his shop. Best 140 bucks you can spend on your Yamaha! http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com/xvz1300.htm
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Hey VR buddies!! Can someone please post pictures of their bike with the AD Chrome carb covers on it. Been lookin and lookin but can't find any? sorry. Thanks!!
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Put carbs back on bike after removal for exterior cleaning. I did not go into carbs but did seperate the bank. After putting back on bike I noticed my throttle was slow to come back. I adjusted cables and the same thing. Both carb #1 and #2 I noticed that the springs connecting the throttle wheel and connecting the linkage on #2 where not tight. I am pretty sure that is my issue. Now...I dont know why or how they are loose. This might be a stupid question but is this associated with the TPS sensor by any chance. I did not remove the TPS nore bracket connected to #2. I am confused and I am sure I am going to have to remove the bank again but I would like some info on what I need to do. Thanks again!!!
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OK folks, it's been a while since we have had a contest. Thanks to AdChrome, I think it's time that we do just that very thing. Now I realize that this is a second gen/RSTD specific item but that's just the way it goes sometimes. So....we are going to have a contest and give this beautiful set of carb covers away to some lucky winner. Now I just have to decide WHAT kind of contest it will be. I'll be getting back to you soon on that.