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Showing results for tags 'caps'.
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I tried to buy new NGK caps for my 2004 venture but the parts store could't match the numbers off of OEM's. Does anyone have the NGK numbers or know how to get them?
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I removed my Yics system months ago and capped the ports with rubber vaccuum caps that i got at an automotive store. I capped the inner Yics hoses (bolt and clamp) since i couldnt reach them and used a cap on the outer ports. Recently, i started getting the popping back and then the strong gas smell. After looking closely during a break on a ride, i noticed that one of my rubber caps had deteriorated to a point where it was just attached by a thin piece of rubber (huge vaccuum leak). I need to find good quality rubber caps. Any ideas? When my bike started popping and smelling .......i started thinking Yamaha Tenere again, but after finding out my problem is a little one, i am keeping my comfortable beast. Would this type of leak be enough to cause the light popping on decel or should i look elsewhere as well. I did synch my carbs before my cross country trip. Is it time again?
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Anyone know how to install these handle bar end caps. I have stock grips and the stock end caps just easly pulls of. Or maybe these are not end caps. If not does anyone know what they are and where they go?
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if you have the latest December 2011 MCN. Downtime files has my letter. Seems he does not have a "for sure" answer to my question. I did have an issue with #2 carb, which is now fixed. But that does not explain why all the NGK caps and spark plugs failed. He thought maybe oil got into the caps. FYI- No, that's not it. I truly believe NGK is now making junk(which I have stated before). And think about it. OEM caps are roughly $25-$40, NGK $4. So you get what you pay for in this case. I have a total of 6 or more bad spark plugs from NGK in the last 3 years resistor and non-resistor. Remember the spark plug is simply an extension of the wire connected to the engine's coil for spark to jump in a hostile environment. I NOW have changed the caps back to OEM(10k ohm) and spark plugs to Denso iridiums. Plus all my carbs set up on low speed screws at 2.5 ccw +/- a quarter turn connected to EGA . 13.6:1 at idle. And were not rich when tested on load. ...cheers:)
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My original caps did not fail internally. But had oxidized from age. And due to the high cost of the OEM caps. I replaced them with NGK caps and new copper core wires. NOW-After having ALL my NGK replacement caps fail internally with little mielage on them. Which I posted on another thread. FYI- This will happen to them all. They are junk. NOW, I am wondering if anyone has found 7mm graphite or other wires with RUBBER caps like older cars use...that fit properly on our small (in automobile terms) spark plugs??? I know we are to have some resistance in the wires or caps....thus graphite type is my 1st thought. -
I want to change out my bars on my 07 RSV. I want to bring them back about 1 1/2" - 2". Who has done this and what brand and model number would I use? I bought a set of 1.5" risers off of ebay, nice product, they moved the bars back perfectly except the caps hit the ignition cover at full lock to the point it would crack the cover. So I sent them back and now want to find a longer set of bars. Any info?
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Hi Guys, I have had my Venture Royale since 1989. Done all the maint myself...everything. I have been an electronics tech for 30+ years. Last year I replaced spark plugs, spark plug caps with all NGK, along with new 7mm hypolon copper wires. I had always used NGK spark plugs since the begining. In fact I only changed spark plugs every 20k miles or so. They were that good, and my bike tuned that well. This year I have been having "misfire" issues at idle. I finally checked the spark plug caps , wires and spark plugs. 3 spark plug caps measured OPEN(should be 5k ohms) on my digital meter and cleaned all spark plugs...3 spark plugs also open. I use non-resistor type which should read almost zero ohms. I suspect These items are NOT made in Japan or they have changed their construction of these items. These above items only had 3k miles on them. Now I have the OEM parts back in. NGK...Junk I say. Don't get stuck like me.
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How do you deal with removing/installing the grips on a first gen? Are the chrome caps on the end of the bars removable or do the old grips have to be cut off and the new ones stretched over the end caps? I have an 84 VR that the PO put leather grip covers on, which make my hands feel like I'm holding onto the fat end of a baseball bat. Want to remove the covers and set something up that is a little smaller in diameter.
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So i just checked the vaccum caps on carbs as advised due to backfire on decel. Just as was mentioned they were both cracked badly so i replaced. Will there be any performance differences since the leak is fixed? Will it impact mpg? I guess other than the backfire on decel what other issues does the leak effect? Thanks for all the good info! What a great site. Larry
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The Problem... My 07 RSV ran good (not great) most days, until a 100 to 150 mile break/rest, after the 15 to 30 min. break the bike seemed sluggish and sometimes similar to a dead cylinder. Sometimes if the ride was early morning, a damp day or late evening, the problem seemed to self heal. Having a somewhat mechanical background and reading all the posts, I flushed the carbs, did Sea Foam and a carb sync, but the problem remained the same and seemed linked to heat and humidity. The problem was very similar to a coil breaking down and I almost stopped by the dealer to purchase a coil. I did a search on coils and found the post by V 7 Goose listed below. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41216&highlight=coil Following "Gooses" instructions I found #3 cylinder plug cap with a resistance of 13k and the brass disc being black (not green or corroded) with the spring shinny as new, # 1,2 and 4 cylinder caps were like new. I cleaned the black disc and applied Di -Electric Grease to all contact areas of springs, discs, resistors and screws of all 4 caps. All had a resistance of 8-9k after cleaning and grease. 400 Miles later.........Again...."Thanks Goose":thumbsup: "The problem Is Gone" "The Bike Is Like New" "Great site with knowledgeable members " $12.00 per year..........How much for a coil??????
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I have been to maintenance day but haven't had any work done. I need help to finish maintenance work on my 83VR that I am doing and see no way to finish it without removing carbs to get to two bad vacuum rubber caps on right rear and left front cylinder heads. Other two cylinders plugs was easy to get to and they were rotted and torn, I must assume the other two must be bad also. So question is: How do I get on a (list?) to get help on maintenance day so I can replace these rubber plugs or caps. On the 1200 motor about an inch and a half under the rubber caps you take off for synchronizing the carbs are larger rubber caps over (vacuum?) nipples from the cylinder heads. The right rear and left front are out in the open and easy to get to. The left front and right rear can barley be seen and touched with your finger. These are the two I need to replace the rubber caps. Thanks.....Karl
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Has anyone used these type of PSI indicator caps on their tires? http://www.bikemaster.com/bmstrv2.nsf/Products/EE6E9572ED4BD60D86257713005D53AD?opendocument
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My Harbor Freight trailer worked fine on a 400 mile trip BUT it lost 3 of the 4 plastic end caps from the 2" square metal frame. Anyone else have this problem, and if so, how did you deal with it? The last one popped out onto the driveway while just setting there! I'm having trouble finding replacements, haven't yet contacted HF. I doubt if they can help, these end caps aren't even listed seperately in the parts list. Maybe it was the 90 MPH pass made on some slow moving traffic on state route 9 in northern Indiana?!?!?
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OK, here's one of the things I'm still looking for to detail out my '84. The two plastic caps that plug the recess in the top of the risers where the handlebars bolt in. I've never seen them on the bikes I've seen and just noticed the caps in the part breakdowns while looking to replace some other parts. Before I begin chasing in cyberspace to make sure they are still available (I found a couple that claim they are) I thought I might ask if anyone had an extra set laying around that needed a good home. Part# 26H-26133-00-00 Between those and my project to replace the tripmeter reset button I'm about there, I think, unless I find out something else is missing. LOL! -
I just want to throw something out here and see what ya'lls answers are. Here goes. How hard is it to put the little brass caps back on the idle mixture screw on the carbs of a 2nd Gen after you make an adjustment??? If you were a dealer, or someone that works on these bikes, would you even bother?? Could you even tell if they have ever been off??? From what I can see they are probably a PITA to get off, much less put back on.
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What size are the vacuum caps for the carbs on the 2nd Gen RSV? Its a '99 if that matters. Thanks, Ross
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83 xvz12 idle ~1100 #1 balanced at about 4-6 in mercury #3 balanced at about 18-20 in mercury idle screw maxed out up When trying to bring #3/4 down to match #2, can't keep it running, drops idle Needs #1/2 brought up with idle screw, but already max up-screw limit Carbs torn apart and cleaned, new gaskets,orings- but missed main fuel needles at the time, recently found it after removing pressed in needle caps, screws were factory? set under caps a mix from 1/2 to 2-1/2 from bottom, reset all a 2 turns #2 cylinder has less compression than other 3, 150 psi vs 180 psi also carb#3 leaking small drip from top overfill drain Suspect I need to pull carbs again due to #3 fuel leak, and re-adjust float, and clean out needle ports I missed, but not sure that this will let me lower idle screw, while raising #2 vacum? Open up #2 needle for more fuel? Disreguard #2 and match other 3 due to lower compression on #2?? Suggestions???
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Well I installed my 6235 ISO grips. Biggest difficulties were getting the bullet end cap weights off without scratching them & modifying the grip ends to enable use of the OEM end caps. For getting the end-caps off - wrapped the outside of the caps with 6 layers of duct tape then used a strap wrench to break them loose to unscrew found grunting & vulgarity quite helpful For opening the ISO grip end to fit the OEM end-cap - I started grinding out the hole with a Dremel tool... that was taking forever! went to Harbor Freight & bought $15 Step-Drill then drilled out the holes to 1 inch easily cut a brass pipe for the spacer on the throttle side Only remaining problem is that the throttle is a little sticky. I'll take it apart & fix that another day. The grips are great & look really nice with the OEM end-caps on. johnb
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Do we still have venturerider shirts and caps for sale, or was that a one time thing??
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To loosen the handlebar bolts, there are chrome caps over each one. Does anyone have a special method to remove these caps, so as to get at these 4 bolts? Thanks.
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need some help here. i am trying to remove Bub end caps. I have drilled off the two rivets but cannot seem to get the puppy to come lose? Help! -
Just in case you were wondering
DONATALIE posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Just in case anyone was wondering if this could be done, Yes you can put other HD pipes on your RSV once you put the "adapter" brackets on. I bought my 2000 RSV used, in 2005. It had BUB slip-ons on it at the time. The chrome on the end caps had deteriorated to the point where they needed to be replaced. However, I did not want to pay the $200 that new end caps were going to cost. Plus, they were too loud for me (I think the previous owner removed the baffles). I then bought the HD muffler brackets sold on VR, and put on a set of drilled out RK mufflers. I liked them, but was looking for just a little more sound. Recently, I got a set of brand new HD touring BUB slip-ons off EBAY for $80 (Yes, $80!), and they fit right on the "adapter" brackets. They're still pretty loud, though, so I don't know if I'll keep them. If I decide to sell them, I'll post 'em here first to see if anybody wants them. If not, I'll put 'em back on EBAY. Anway, just in case anyone was wondering... -
I have just designed the detachable tour pak my RSTD and was wondering if anyone knows if the 'front mounting hardware which attaches the stock back rest on my RSTD is also present on the Venture bike. also there is a thread hole on the chromed fender brackets which has chromed caps pushed into the treads, are these also present on RSV. i'm trying to figure out if my pak will work on RSV?
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What KInd of fork seals and dust caps does everybody use for replacements?
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Hey Y'all, I've had a persistent problem with engine rpm-related noise in the radio and intercom, both thru the speakers and headsets. I've posted here and there on the subject. I had the noise improve a little when I improved the grounding on the bike. But it was still significant. Well, I just pretty much fixed it. The factory has 3 noise-reducing capacitors installed: two in the radio noise filter (one for system hot, the other for battery back-up (hot all the time)), and the third near the voltage regulator. Each cap goes from hot to ground and bleeds off noise (AC signal) but doesn't short out the DC power. They say caps dry out and don't work as well as they age. Well, mine are 22 years old! So I went to Radio Shack and bought two 2200 microfarad caps and one 4400. I then bought two more 2200's after I nearly blew one up and ruined them by wiring them in backward and then yanked them out when I heard the gurgling - live and learn :-) I put the 4400 near the regulator and the 2200's at the radio near the existing noise filter, and wired them as I said, from hot to ground. The noise is nearly gone - not completely, but I wonder if the remaining noise could be normal as it's very small. Certain things increase it, as they did before, but on a lower level: Setting the Headphone Attenuator on the handlebar at Max gives a little noise that almost goes away if I set it on the big dot just below Max. The Auto Volume circuit introduces noise. If I have it all the way down it goes away, and it increases steadily as I turn this feature more sensitive. There's a slight hiss in the system even with the engine off - just par for the course I guess. If I crank the Auto Volume and the Headphone Attenuator both up to Max, the noise is still less than what I had before with much more conservative settings. As long as music is playing, I cannot hear the noise at all. In totally quiet times and with the knobs set to contain the noise, I still can't hear it unless I'm REALLY trying. I'm very pleased, been waiting 3 years to do this! The caps are about 5 bucks each, whether you fry them or not! Very good solution. Thanks to GeorgeS for suggesting it! Jeremy
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