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Showing results for tags 'cap'.
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Since I have half the bike torn apart, I thought I may as well see what's under the travel trunk and seat. I am now trying to replace/regenerate the desiccant (silicagel) in the drier tube in my 1989 Venture. Got to the part where owners manual (and manual for 1st gens) say to push on cap and remove circlip. WELL....what a chore. Pushed with all my might and finally got the circlip out. Thought man that must be one heck of a spring....but nothing happened after removing the circlip. I CAN NOT remove the cap. I even grabbed it with a plumbers pliers. I can wiggle it, can slightly turn it, but can't remove it. The whole canister and cap seem to be made out of aluminum. I wonder if this has never been changed and it is all corroded up inside? Any suggestions? Probably my next move is to soak the heck out of it with penetrating fluid or such. It will ruin the silicagel, but that can be replaced. Open to suggestions from this knowledgeable crowd. -
I was thinking there was an after market radiator cap avail for the 1st gens. I did a search and did not come up with anything. It seems like it was a for a Geo or something like that. Any suggestions? RandyA -
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Hey y'all, I found an easy way to use that white aux power plug located just behind the battery on the left side. Even though the cap does not have the necessary pins in it to make a connection, the pin retaining clips work somewhat like wire clamps. I just stripped the ends from some 18 gauge zip cord and tinned it, then used hemostats (or small needle nose pliers) to insert the wire into the contacts in the bottom plug - they fit very snugly after tinning. Here are a couple of pictures - not the best, but you should be able to see what I am talking about: [ATTACH]16155[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]16154[/ATTACH] Just make sure you insert the wires into the metal contacts in the plug, not the empty spot next to them where the retaining clips are (I think that the second picture actually shows me holding the wires in the wrong hole)! The way the plug cap is designed, the wires are protected from accidentally touching once the cap is put back in place. Also, remember that this plug is only on a 5 amp fuse (located behind the right front cowling). Good luck, Goose -
well put in igntec computer the 5 month. had carbs rebuilt and seen them in pieces and looked at all pieces. drove it 250 miles a while back went out the next day front right not firing at all cold pipe. took computer out and checked ohms at plugs 109 at pickups and 2.5 for coils. pulled off plug cap. cant remember how to check. where can a person buy one at and is the wire replaceable. and i read some where that the coils could be cracked and test good just not fire. is this true? the cap looks damaged just not sure. any ideas
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Hi all, Having trouble tracking down STR-4NK27-14-01 Billet oil filler cap for my 2006 midnight venture. I can however get my hands on an STR-5BN27-14-01 billet oil filler cap for a vstar. It appears in the pictures I have of both they are identical, in fact the same picture. Are these two pieces interchangeable? Chris
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OK first of all this site rocks. Since I bought my 85 Venture I have found most everything I needed to know here. But I have a rear end issue that I'm sure is common. I was going to replace the gear oil in the rear end. Book says .3 of a liter or 300ml. Get a measuring cup just to see how much drains out. Get my allen head sockets and 19mm socket for the drain and sit on the floor. The fill cap on the rear, about half way up looks a little knarly but the metric allen slides in sorta tight. Give a pull with the ratchet and around it comes....ta da stripped.....I assume this should not be this tight. Tried the SAE a little bigger and tapped it in with a hammer...no good. Is there a easy fix for this? I could drill it out and save the threads and get a new cap. Only worry is that the filings would fall down inside!! Not good! As always looking to fix the most economical. But if I need to go to the dealer I will. Thanks everybody!!
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last night i was having issues with not all cylinders running at the same time, i had no to low fire on a rear cylinder so i popped of the cap while running to see if the was any change in idle. and as soon as the cap cleared the plug i got some good zaps so it would seem my caps and wires are no good. where can i get the best replacement? -
My wife loves to ride but her big hang up is helmet hair. now she has short hair and she has tried do rags & all but when we go in anywhere she ends up putting on a cap. She fusses and says "I don't ALWAYS want to have to wear a cap, I do like to look nice for u " which I"m thankful & heck she'd look good in a paper sack, okay to my question... How do u ladies deal with helmet hair?
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My 08 venture, when ever I ride in the rain or wash my bike the right rear cilinder stops firing. blow off the cap & around the plug & it starts fireing again. I have checked the drain hole it is open so that is not it.what else ? I am thinking that the rubber on the cap is not sealing. so I put some grease in the cap & put silacone around all the places where the wires and ruber boots splice. Havent tryed to wash it sence. the silacone isn't dry yet. so dont know if it helped yet. thank you for your input!!!
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Has anyone had their gas cap come apart? I lost a screw most likely in the tank that I,ll have to get out . The other was still there but really loose. anyway the springs in it came out and I wanted to know if anybody knew where they went.
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Watched a brake job today. The instructor used an old Gatorade bottle and 3/16th hose as the vacuum for the job. Really worked well. The way it was set up is to take a length of hose that fits over your bleeder valve and drill a hole in the bottle cap that the hose will just slip into. Run the hose through the cap into the bottle. Then hook the free end to your bleeder valve. When you are ready to start bleeding/draining the fluid, open the cap on the bottle slightly, and squeeze the bottle. While holding the bottle in the "crushed" condition, tighten the bottle cap which will create a vacuum in the line. Open the bleeder valve and the fluid will flow. If the vacuum is exhausted before the bleed is finished, just close the valve, open the bottle cap and crush again. I was impressed with how well it worked.
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I've seen a few different ideas for hub caps on 8" wheels. Don't know if anybody has tried this. I had a front hub cap from my semi kicking around, it measures 8 3/4" same as the outside lip of 8" wheel. There's a small gap between the wheel and the cap about an 1/8" but it's really hard to pull back off. Can't give it the acid run right now( few to many icy patches).
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So I'm in the process of removing the 16 valve cover bolts and adding washers to stop my couple of small leaks. I'm also replacing the spark plugs as I work in each area... I pop off the spark plug cap to replace the front left plug and I see what looks like a big washer behind it... When I removed it, it was a 1984 quarter. How the heck did a quarter get in that tight area behind the cap...? That just hits me as weird... the plugs looked like they were in for a long time... but it's a 1989...
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For some reason my radiator cap ('83) is stuck and i cant get it off. I got as far as turning the cap to line up the notches, then taking a screw driver to pry it up. Still cant get it to budge. Strange, it'll rotate freely but wont come off. I just hate break something and complicate the problem. Any ideas? -
OK so I'm a slow learner. I think the attached pictures answers my question but I want to make sure. These pictures come from Bkuhr's pictorial of doing progressives. Am I correct in saying that when installing progressive springs... instead of re-inserting ALL the stock parts, all I need is the spring washer (#4) between the new spring and the PVC spacer (which has been cut to 1") and the cap (#2) and finally the cap bolt (#1) I no longer need the spacer(#3). Have I got that right?
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As some of you know I have been battleinga rough running issue in 4th and 5th gear under a load for 3 months now, also popping and some back firring when slowing down or coasting down hill. Anyway on our trip it got worse and really hammered under a load in 4th and 5th gear. My mileage also dropped from 41 mpg to around 37mpg. Over the last couple of months I have done everything I could think of to fix the problem but it just kept slowly getting worse. I had also noticed that the gas cap was becoming a little hard to take off and put back on. Well today I happened to look at the bottom of the cap and noticed there are two little screws tjhat hold the locking part to the top of the cap. Well one of the srews were missing and the other one was 4 turns loose. After tightening it up it went back on like it was suppose to and low and behold my problem was solved. The bike ran smooth again and 2 tanks later I averaged 41.7 MPG. What a wonderful feeling to have it running the way it used to. So everyone check the little screws in their gas cap to be safe. Not sure where the one went that is missing but will take off the tank and drain to see if it is insidce or not. Evidently the tank needs to be sealed tight by the gas cap for it to run correctly.
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Months back someone had a link to a small custom leather company that made leather gas cap covers to fit RSV. Anyone know what it was or know of gas cap covers besides the Yamaya one? Thanks, Mike G
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OK...I'm gonna post my new bib (very similar to my first one)...and the new gas cap. These gas caps are GREAT as a decorative item and even better in use for limiting GLARE off the gas cap and also giving you a place to put your gas cap when filling up. These are a combination of regular pictures and iPhone pics.
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http://www.indystar.com/article/20110606/LOCAL/106060321/Motorcyclists-raise-300-000-Riley-Hospital?odyssey=nav|head Picture 5, I'm wearing the black/yellow skull cap walking behind the governor.
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It seems I have to remove the left fork cap and the remove the air line from the my class air compressor and use my shop air to blow the oil back into my forks as the class compressor doesnt have enough pressure to do this. It turns out that if a bike goes on its side oil can fill the class hoses and disable the compressor. So I need to know the size of the wrench needed to get that cap off. I know almost enough here to be dangerous, but I think I also need to make sure to get the bike on center stand and get weight off the front wheel. Is there anything else I need to know to pull this cap off? Brian
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Can anyone tell me is there a radiator cap on a 05 RSTD mine seams to be a sealed system as there is a thing that resembles a cap but it wont turn as a normal cap
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Never could find the articule about loose screws on a RSV, but, I know it will happen to the: left and right saddlebag lids trunk lid Now, for my story... Thursday I decided to take the 650 VStar midnight custom out for a spin and rode about 50 miles. Was going down a straight away when "sprong" the top of my gas cap came off and started to go to the road. I hit it with my right knee and it landed in my lap. Then, a metal/rubber section came up and i did the same thing. I slowly stopped and looked at pieces in my lap. In all 3 pieces. A brass piece a rubber piece and the chrome topper. I stuffed a leather glove down the tank hole and proceeded home. Out of curiousity I discovered my RSV locking gas cap fits beautifully on the 650. Probably the exact same cap. Now, I have to drain the gas tank and retrieve the two phillips head screws and the aluminum spring assembly that must have fallen into the tank. Guess what I'm saying is, the gas cap screws need to be added to that list...
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My nephew bought an 86 Nissan pickup. Starts right up and drives good. The problem is it has NO power. when you punch it it just falls on its face. I changed the plugs, wires, rotor cap, distributor cap, air filter, fuel filter, sea foamed it, and reset the timing. Now the lady he got it from said that she had just put this engine in, also said this engine had a ton of power in the donor truck and when her mechanic put it in this truck it had none. Any ideas? This thing will not even get to 60 mph. Shaun
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I finally got around to working on the Venture. Got it running last night and took it for a hour long ride up weber canyon and Trappers Loop - That’s the success part. The bad part is it really does not want to start. With the enrichment on it will pop out the carbs a few times then back fires out the left side enough that the end cap on that side is blown halfway down the street. Usually it takes about ten min of work (some throttle, starter fluid) to get it to start once it starts it runs good. I plan on pulling the carbs and giving them a good cleaning. As I am cleaning them is there anything that I need to be looking for? No need to pull them apart and put them back together with bad parts that I don't know about.
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One of my saddle bag rail bolts loosened up, and the bolt and end cap are missing-in-action. Any chance somebody out there has these parts on the shelf from a rail that that got wrecked in a drop, or who knows what happened??? Pictured below are the 2 pieces I'm missing, the bolt and the cap that is ahead of the saddle bag guard. The bolt goes thru the cap and the guard, and into the front end of the bag rail. 2006 RSV, by the way. Thanks for looking. Larry http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w317/larrykir/Venture%20Saddle%20Bag%20Rail%20Parts/100_2777.jpg http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w317/larrykir/Venture%20Saddle%20Bag%20Rail%20Parts/100_2778.jpg
