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Showing results for tags 'calipers'.
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When I purchased my 1987 Venture Royale I noticed right off the bat that the left front rotor/caliper had major problems as did the rear caliper. The left front caliper was sticking so badly that it destroyed the LF rotor. After pricing rebuild kits for the three calipers, the rebuild kits for the front and rear master cyls. and the replacment of the bad front rotor my navigator/accountant said that perhaps I should just part the bike out! I sung the blues to SQUEEZE ( by the way thanks very much for giving me the courage to do this!)and he assured me that the solution was to replace the calipers with calipers from the Yamaha R1 and "de-link" the braking system. I really liked this idea because I also have a Honda V65 magna with the usual braking system. Both front discs operated by the hand lever and the foot pedal operating the rear brake. I purchased 2 front calipers from a 2002 R1 from Ebay for $40.00 with shipping. I also purchased a brake line set from a 2002 VMAX for $28.00 with shipping. Lastly, I purchased a set of stock, used rotors from Ebay for $55.00 with shipping. I picked up a front and rear master cyl. rebuild kit from Rick @ Buckeye Performance (by the way Rick, thanks a bunch!) and althou he was not too keen on me de-linking the brakes he was very friendly and provided excellent service, plus gave me a nice VR ORG. discount. Once the parts arrived, I removed ALL of the old brake lines, rebuilt the front and rear master cyls., installed the VMAX brake line set, moved the right front brake caliper to the rear (waiting on another good buy on a RF R1 caliper.) added a set of speed bleeders on all three calipers, and this was the beginning of the good part, I bled all three wheels out in 8 minutes!! Needless to say the braking is nothing short of UNBELIEVABLE! During one extremely hard brake test I came VERy close to lifting the rear wheel off the ground with NO front brake lock-up, and the decell was breath taking. The more brake lever you grab, the harder these new calipers work! I have included some pics, Part 2 will be the addition of an R1 rear caliper and part 3 will be the replacment of the stock front rotors with a set of modified R1 floating rotors. I will keep you posted as the rest of this story unfolds. Any questions, please feel free to ask me, SQUEEZE is the Master, I'm just the desiple. Ride Safe, Stop Safe, Earl.
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I cant seem to find the thread I was looking at here. it was on replacing the two piston front calipers on stock RSV with R1 or R6 four piston calipers. I was at the dealer yesterday and looked at the new and R1 & R6 It looks to me that the calipers on the new models will not bolt up. they did not have any used ones in the store so I cant say about the older model years. however I looks like the FJR calipers will bolt up. If the R1 & R6 calipers will bolt on to the RSV, What year calipers do I need to find to bolt on to a 2007 RSV. There seem to be many to choose from on e-bay. If I up grade I want to be sure to get the ones that will bolt up. And I am aware on the difference in master cylinder piston size between the two bikes (R1 and RSV)
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Hey guys, My friend BJ Melin just posted the following on the MTA forum, so I thought I would post it here to get some feedback from you all: ""Hey guys I hate the front brakes on the 2nd gen Venture after a long trip my right hand is sore and worn out from gripping the lever so hard. I have bought a set of R6, 4 piston brake calipers and intend to get them installed the next time I have a decent day to work on the bike. I don't have an enclosed garage yet, so I have to wait for good weather. It looks like they will mount differently from the RSV 2 piston calipers. Rick Butler has mounted a pair of 4 piston calipers from the 1st gen on his Venture. Has anyone else tried the R6 calipers and if so how did they work out?" From what I have observed, the 2004 and earlier R6 and 2003 and earlier R1 calipers should be a clean bolt-up. Since many of these bikes seem to find their way to salvage, this might be a good option for someone wanting to get better front brakes on their RSV. Rick
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R1 and delink the brakes
Squidley posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Just wanted to toss up a quick note to all the 1st genners that are thinking of delinking their front brakes and going with the R1/R6 front calipers. I just finished this mod on the '86 I currently own, and I used several different lines. The main line from the front brake master cylinder was off a 2nd gen. I sent this down to what I think was a Vmax splitter and then the R1 calipers I bought had the lines with it and I used them to the calipers. The reason I am writing about this is I ran into a problem when I 1st put it together. I want to save you fellas some headaches should you want to try this. Let me start out saying that all banjo bolts are not the same. Also all brake line connectors are also not the same. The original equipment lines on the 1st gens have a groove inside the fitting and the banjo bolt has a full sized shank. The 2nd gen line does not have this groove in the line, nor does the R1 lines, so there has been an engineering change with this and the bolts are not interchangeable. What I ended up doing, was grinding a groove in my old bolt at the splitter, and also on the master cylinder bolt as I wanted to use the original ones to make sure they worked properly. I used the banjo bolts that came with the R1 calipers on them. The pics below are of the differences in the bolts, and the mod plate I did to mount the splitter. I bled the brakes out tonight and have a good feel to it with newer lines.
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Brake Pad Replacement
utadventure posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I replaced tires today on my '86 and need to do brakes next. This is my question. Do you replace the pads with the calipers in place or do you remove them from the mount/rotors? Dave -
I just wanted to let everyone know how pleased and professional this company is. One of the most pleasurable company to deal with. I have been working with Jim to get better braking power on my dad's 07 trike. He sent us new brake shoes and the larger rotors right before Christmas. During the time I was at dad's we worked on the bike. The brake pads didn't fit the calipers so we just didn't use them because the ones on there were still good. Went to put the wheels on and they didn't fit, wheel hit the caliper. So I called and got Jim's voice mail saying he was out until after the holidays, expected really. I called today and left a message for him to call me back. He did promptly and now he is going to send new calipers with all the fittings to get all the new stuff on. I am really happy this company stands behind their kits and helps owners of older models upgrade to their newer equipment. If or when I get a trike it will be a Hannigan for sure.
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Are all MK II front calipers the same from 86-93? I finally got my front brakes hooked up to work together, but It still gives me the same amount of braking, virtually none, I am thinking the right one is bad, when I pump them up to bleed them I get good flow from the left when I bleed it, but when I bleed the right one after pumping them up again, just dribbles from the bleeder. If I let it sit for a while the brake lever has no pressure at all, have to pump them up to get any feel but the lever still goes to the handlebar. I am thinking the right caliper is leaking down, but I cant find any leaks anywhere. I have someone offering calipers from an 86 or 87 but I want to make sure they are the same before I get them. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
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Well I have searched the threads re this and went out and got a complete setup (in fact 2 set ups) 1 from an 07 roadstar with 14mm master and calipers and all lines inc splitter...#2 is a R6 blue dot caliper complete with master also 14 mm bought the R6 first and will be selling them after install......I am going to use the roadstar m/c and roadstar calipers as they look the same as R6...they have chrome dots .....Are these calipers the same internally? both are 4 piston.....the lines from RSV and roadie are same length banjo looks a little different...I will be replacing stock lines with SS....and EBC pads.....why the use of a Vmax splitter?is it for better flow?.also will roadie floating rotors fit..they are same dia. and have saame # mounting holes any problems that i might run into thanks for any info Les
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Hi all! I'm about to get some R1 calipers and am trying to find some front rotors. Has anyone used the EBC md2096's? Also, someone had mention early vmax rotors will work. Will they work with the r1 calipers? They seem really thick too. 7.5 mmish? Several cheap sets of those floating around. Thanks everyone! -
As both a procrastinator and one who's latest promotion has consumed a ton of my free time, I admit that I have had almost all of these parts sitting on the shelf for a full year. What a colossal mistake on my part. The last bit I was holding out on was a 14mm master cylinder. I found what I wanted on eBay last week -- had to strip and refinish, but that took less time than I expected. Skydoc_17 had provided the SS lines (I asked him to special order black so it would look more like stock and it does) and VMax splitter; all of which were still in the sealed USPS box that he mailed them to me in. I cleaned and painted my eBay sourced R1 calipers solid black to get rid of the blue anodized stars. Installation was straightforward and uneventful. Since I already had the bike torn down for the valve adjustment (another big thank you to skydoc_17) it was a couple days before I could get it on the street. My initial impression was, lets say much below satisfactory. I was actually pissed within the first 2 stops at how much time I had put into the project. To be fair, I had gone cheap and reused whatever pads (still had good meat, no idea what brand) were loaded in the calipers. Fortunately, my local shop had a pair of the EBC HH pads on the shelf. Second impression was light years ahead. I couldn't have asked for a better result. The albino water buffalo now bleeds off speed equivalent or better than any other big touring bike I have ever owned or ridden. If you are on the fence, let me shove you over to the other side. Even if you stick with the stock 5/8" master cylinder, its a step in the right direction. Iz
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The radial brake conversion is now a reality !! I received the machined brackets from Bob Meyers (member here) today. Very nice machine work at a very good price for a single set prototypes. They mounted on the bike perfectly. My day job is a mechanical design engineer. I have the CAD tools at home to be able to design & get plastic prototypes made for this conversion. The calipers came from a came off a 2011 R1, with 45 miles on it, they upgraded brakes on it. Not wrecked and in perfect condition. Squeeze convinced me this was the way to go if I wanted something better than the R1 4 pot calipers that I had on the bike. Rotors are 298mm x 5mm from a 2003 FJR. I went through 2 versions of a rapid prototype that the local high school did for me at a decent price. Calipers & brackets have been run through a CAD FEA software package that calculates stresses on a part and determines its suitability for a given application. Original thread on this process if you are interested, started out going to use a set of YZF calipers. Never mounted them. This is the 4th set of brakes that has been on the bike. Stock set, MKII set, 2000 R1 quad pistons, and now 2011 R1 six piston radials. Needless to say, but the brakes are delinked. Rear end is a modified under slung VMax setup that was required to use when the VMax 15" rim was mounted on last winter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65445 Have a few more minor tasks to get done & bike will be ready to go. This winter has seen the full V-boost controller added, Marks header, upgraded brakes, painted yellow, rear speakers, replaced some less than perfect body panels with better ones, VMax front wheel, some powder coating, accent LED lighting and other tasks done to it. Hopefully, I haven't crossed that fine line between great brakes and to much brakes !!! Gary -
I’m reworking an 83 goldwing . Had everything else fixed but could not get the front brake to tighten up. Might slow down the bike but not really stop it. Put new master cylinder on and tried three different old hoses, rebuild old calipers, looked like the rotor ran true when spinning the tire. Bleed the brakes about 20 times, replaced calipers from Ebay… ETC ,,,,,, Took to dealer, they spent three weeks and rebuilt the original master cylinder replaced brake hose with new and checked the caliper. Got a bit better but not right. Brought bike home and my son noticed that the caliper was slightly twisting when applied. Put a straight edge on the rotor and its warped like a bowl. It only out by 0.05 in but that enough to cause a real problem. Bought used rotor on Ebay and problem solved. Hopefully this may help someone else in the future.
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I have access to a brake lathe. Is there a resurfacing spec to redo the calipers?
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Got a good set of 6 piston Sumitoma calipers for the VenMax today. Came off a 1997 YZF750R Yamaha. 100mm bolt spacing on mounts will match up to the MKII forks on it. Rotors are right diameter, calipers may need shimmed in slightly when I put the VMax front rim on this winter. They were going to need that with the R1's, about 1/4". Off with the R1's, didn't match well with that blue dot !! Gary
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Last winter, I was simply going to put new rotors on and replace my brake pads on my 83 VR. I got the wonderful idea to rebuild my calipers..( which really were not bad) as long as I was at it...Ever since then, my rear/left front brakes have been a nightmare... First bleeding them was a nightmare, but eventually got them satisfactory...but every now and then the rear pedal would get soft. I'd re bleed it and it would get somewhat better. The strange thing is as long as I was riding daily, it seemed okay...however, if I ever let the bike sit for much more than a week, I would have zero pressure and could not pump it up....fluid level is always fine in rear reservoir.. I'm obviously getting air somewhere, but how could that happen just sitting? Could it be a problem with seals on the calipers...I did have to split one of the calipers..( I know the mannual says never to do that,) but it seemed the only way to get one piston out. I really do not feel like spending all winter redoing brakes again.. it's darn messy job ...and i still prefer the integrated vs delinked brakes on this particular bike. Any great words of wisdom or ideas... Thanks Clay -
I'm boing through the brake system on my "83. Since it has been setting up for a very long time, the calipers are forze solid. What is the best way to break the pistons loose without damaging them?
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Can somebody elaborate which calipers can be used to upgrade the front and rear calipers of a MKII Venture? Which years R1 or R6 are a direct bolt on using the same disk position and diameter. Also, which modifications need to be done to the brake hoses or which hoses are used as a replacement? Do the Ventureline chrome caliper covers fit over the updated calipers? How is the brake feel with the stock master cylinders after the caliper upgrade? Any modifications necessary to the master cylinders? What models could be used? Thanks in advance, I know it's a lot of questions, but some of you have done the upgrade and might want to share with the group. Klaus -
anyone out there ever buy the emgo brake kit listed on ebay?? need new brakes and want to but the kit for all 3 calipers and not spend a fortune. thanx brake kit is around $$60.00
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Earl (SkyDoc) had been trying to sell me those "special calipers" for my bike, well I finally purchased his complete brake system and I must say fellows, it does make a difference and even though I questioned was it worth it before I bought the calipers and steel lines, I can tell you it is. My braking is soooooo much more smooth and yes, it will throw you into the windshield. Not trying to push this for SkyDoc, just passing along my experience.
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ok im going to wait for skydoc to get better then im sending the calipers out for a fresh rebuild. i tried every thing in the book. i bought a mighty vac flushed the system. new DOT 4 . as thats all the store had on the shelf. took it out for a ride today just up and down my back road here after about a mile of back and forth it locked up again this time 5 ft from my front door. so im lucky there. so my opion is calipers need a rebuild? it must be sticking? sorry to rant here guys and gals too. i will be comming into some money in december due to a uncle who passed on. so a new bike might be in order? but this one will remain with me its gotten to be a chalenge and sooner or later one of us is going to give in LOL
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well i went to check the shop thats doing the brakes and what ever else he can perform in the 600.00 range dianne gave them permission to do. i was told i was doing nothing wrong with working on the brakes. but my brake system is now laying on the bench. front calipers rear calipers. front master. and rear master. front rubber hoses as well as the one i got from dingy for the rear. tires are off and all rotors have been pulled. reason why the man said hes going to start from scratch? clean up the rotors? work on the calipers. looking for steel or at least new rubber hoses? i asked if he could wait and i could get a delink kit for the brakes. he stated for insurance reasons he wouldnt want to take on that risk? he said good idea but he must follow shop rules? i asked how far on cost are we in it? he said tear down and inspection. are a freebie to dianne? he owes her a favor? then said to redo with rubber lines and clean up and check operation of pistons in the calipers then reassembly bleed and test run cost around $300. range maybe $400. with steel lines. then said another $60 and he would try a carb sync? that includes 4 new plugs. and a free compression check? then said latter this fall or winter get them progressive spring and do the front end. will charge $50 and a case of beer for that because he will do it at end of ridding season. im now painting a huge garage door. dog sitting two wonderfull beagle dogs use to be a cat around here to?? but i think buckey one of the dogs ate it??i have to watch him hes fast and loves rabbits? the female one sadeyes is her name just acts like a female. just bring me my food water my toys take me outside then after that i dont know you:big-grin-emoticon:
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Would there be any interest from members to purchase replacement square cut O-Rings that go between the brake caliper halves on 1st gen bikes. These are not used on 2nd gen bikes due to caliper design. Yamaha does not list a part for this square cut O-Ring. They recommend in the service manual not splitting the calipers. In order to give the calipers a decent cleaning though, I have found that splitting the caliper is necessary. At times it is need to just get the pistons out of the caliper body. I have located a supplier that will make this O-Ring for me. I have to order a quantity of 250 of them though. There is a 7 week lead time. I can supply 6 of these O-Rings, which is the quantity needed for all three calipers, for a cost of $10.00 including shipping to U.S. & Canada. Please post to this thread or PM me if interested. Bear in mind the long lead time I have on getting these special O-Rings. Gary
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Ok, so I had the thread earlier about the fuel petcock. Got the fixed, the bikes running, so moving on to the next thing. I have an 83 venture. I paid $400 for the bike. The only other thing I tell is wrong with it so far is the foot brake. I know it also controls one of the front calipers. The problem is that when you press the pedal down, it stays, and you have to pull it back up. So any suggestions, tips, advice, etc., would be greatly appreciated. thanks for all the help earlier. Look forward to getting my bike on the road!! -
I am planning on rebuilding my front calipers as I suspect one of my brakes might be dragging. I pulled the calipers out and upon inspection the pistons were as smooth as can be except for the small section that sticks out of the caliper while in the normal position. Running my finger across them I can feel that they are a little rough. Some of it is just dirt and some might be actual damage to the piston itself. My question is: How much pitting is okay in the caliper piston before it ought to be replaced? It appears that any roughness in the piston itself remains outside the caliper when a set of fresh pads are installed therefore I would presume that it is fine to go ahead and not replace these and just polish them as much as possible before reinstalling in the rebuilt caliper. I have included a few pictures of what I am looking at here - I know it is a little hard to tell, but it was pretty much the best I could do. Also, is there anything else I ought to be checking for on these? I did notice more dirt build up on one of the caliper's pistons than the other, which leads me to believe that something is wrong with that particular caliper (ie leaky seal or something like that). Thanks for putting up with my dumb questions... -
Ok, we got a set of rebuilt calipers, put them on and after a few hours of fiddling with them got a little pressure in the handle and foot pedal, now I wouldvecpect with new calipers that the pull should get very hard quickly, they don't as a matter of fact the front brake will slow uou down a little but will not stop you (I would hate to try and make a quick stop with s car in front of me ) anyways the back brake and front are a little better but not much, any ideas? Feels real spongy, I've never worked on a linked brake system and my first thought is this system sucks! Could someone post some instructions? It would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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