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Showing results for tags 'cable'.
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As one who many years ago had the speedometer squeal about scare me to death and then not do it again until I was 400 miles from home, I think I have a good fix. First of all, the only way to do it right is get grease INTO the bearing area where the cable goes into the housing. In the past, I would take the speedometer out of the dash and try to get grease way down in the inside and hope enough grease got around the bearing, and it usually did, but not always and it was a bit of a PITA. I went to Lowe's and got an 1/4 inch pipe cap, which screws several threads on to the back of the speedometer. I drilled and tapped a hole to accept a grease fitting. I screw the cap on finger tight, as this is a pipe thread fitting, and pump in grease. You will need to get most of the grease out of the cable hole so the cable will go in. What you are trying to do is get grease around the center piece where the cable goes. The cable hole is a blind hole(not a thru hole) so the pressurized grease goes between the center piece and housing. I did it on an old speedometer I had and it made it smoother. By doing it this way, you do not have to take the dash out, just take the cable housing off and screw on the fitting. I bought a tray of grease fittings from Harbor Freight a while back and it has different angle fittings if the straight one does not work best. I will attach some pics. RandyA -
I know that some dealers will mount them incorrectly. I was on a ride on Saturday and noticed one of the guys had his switched. If the radio antenna is connected to the cb cable and the cb antenna connected to the radio cable, will that cause reception issues with the cb? Here is what we experienced. We would be stopped at a stoplight and we could talk to each other just fine. We hit the highway and there was so much static couldn't make out what we were saying. It wasn't anything like passing over power lines or anything like that. We were next to each other for about 2 hours and it was like that the whole way.
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My Yamaha rep. has just emailed me that the iSimple iPod adaptor will be available in a few weeks. Here is some info on this. Fits: 1998-2011 Royal Star Venture *additional cable is required for fitment on 1999-2008 models unless the CD Changer has been installed* Simple plug and play device that allows an ipod/iphone to be controlled using the factory audio controls Allows the use of ipod for hours of enjoyment Compatible with ipods that use a 30-pin connector (including iphone, not compatible with ipod shuffle) ipod charges when connected to isimple system iSimple adaptor $224.95 Interface cable $86.95 If anybody is interested in ordering these, please PM or email me. Standard 15% venturerider discount will apply. Thanks! Chad Pioneer Motorsport pioneermotorsport@yahoo.com
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Help please. Me and Deb went for a ride to Pittsburgh PA sunday just to shop a little. On the way back the speed-o just quit. Looked in our classfied and at pinwall but just can"t seam to find one. Does anyone have a speedometer cable for my 84 venture royale around for a reasonable price. Me and Deb want to go to moundsville wv on the weekend of 8-24 to see the moveing wall come into town. Thanks Dan.
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We went for a short ride yesterday & 86 VR quit in the middle of the street. Idled it into a lot & removed LH fairing, where I saw my throttle cable, broke in two about 2 inches from the idle screw. Towed home. The metal curved shroud & spacers were balancing in place & I saved them. I've looked-up the info on this fix & it looks like a nightmare. One end moves with the carb linkage [finger] & the other moves with the throttle. Which of the 4 cables is this? What is involved in fixing this? Thanks in advance for any info.
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I've got my carbs ready to go back on, and was installing the throttle cables. When I was guiding the bottom THROTTLE OPEN cable, it let me know that it needs to be replaced....it has a couple of broken strands. On one of the 'other' Venture sites I used to belong to, the subject of broken throttle cables on Gen 1's with cruise control used to come up periodically. I never used to pay too much attention to the details though, because my 83 is a Standard and doesn't have cruise. Of course, my 89 does. Does anybody remember the details?? Was it only Mk I bikes? Which cable breaks? Frank D. -
Hi all Is there a easy way to put a meeter on the cb cable to match the antenna? cheny
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The speedometer needle on my 1983 Venture Royale is sticking. When I purchased the bike the speedometer inner cable had been removed by the owner. He said the last time he rode it the speedometer stuck and his mechanic told him to remove the cable to prevent any internal damage. He bought another bike and put the Venture up for sale and never had the speedometer fixed. I removed the speedometer today and everything appears intact to my untrained eye. I can moved the needle back to zero and it will spring back to 90 mph as soon as I let it go. It is in remarkably good and clean condition on the inside. Hate to just buy a used working speedometer from ebay if there is anything to be done to fix this one. Any ideas on what the problem could be? I hate to just replace a perfectly good looking instrument.http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o196/TSM01/IMAG0134.jpg
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ok we took it out for a run and i must say where getting there still idles a little rough but going to run the pi## out of it. still about 1/4 full with that can of seafoam i put in it . but i hit 55 mph and i swear i had like a dozen cats screaming at me. let me tell ya it puckerd me up. i though oh crap its going to lock up the engine? well i noticed the speedo was just jumping. and damn the noise was loud. so ok is it the cable. or the drive unit at the wheel keep in mind we did both wheels rotors brakes and all did i mess something up while doing that work? i have a extra used cable here as well as the driveunit. but dang i hate to think i got to pull that front wheel again. i also learned if you think it needs to be oiled you better do it. time to wd 40 and check everything out. you know the most fun is learning to do it and learn. right now i would like to kick the PO arse. letting the bike get this way. but when i get er done im going to be one happy guy. also whats the best setting for air. i got 12 in front and 32 rear that might be why it feels so tall. and a little fun getting on it. and is there a way to tell if progressive springs have been installed its a 84 and for some reason or im not looking right i dont see anti dives? also no front air cross over for the forks? where it should be by the key there is now a pull switch that works the fan? why someone did that i dont know? its never overheated on me and i never pulled that switch. except to see what it was. maybe just a precaution while sitting in heavy traffic turn it on?
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For as long as I can remember, my cruise has acted a bit oddly. I do have draggy throttle cables so the cruise isn't as precise as it could be but often yet irregularly, it would jump up 5-10 kph then fade away under the set point, then cut out. I could resume but in a few minutes it would happen again. It was getting to be a pain but I had taken out the vacuum pump and checked the connectors and all seemed ok....I was stumped. I even took the speedo apart to see if anything in there was off...didn't look like it. The cruise box behind the light was a bit worse for wear wth the board basically hanging out...but that wasn't the issue either. Last week I was on a road trip and while going through one town, I noticed my speedo wasn't working. I pulled over and the cable was undone....and the core missing. I went back and forth over the couple of mile stretch where it happened 4 times but found nothing....so I went on my way without a speedo or cruise. The next day, i found a place called Mr. Speedometer that, among other things, fabricated speedo cables. It cost me 25 bucks but the new one works like a charm. One side benefit is that my cruise is no longer jumping. It seems my cruise problem was a loose speedo cable. The speedo itself was always steady but since the cruise uses pulses, it only takes the slightest slip to make it think the bike is slowing down and try to speed things up...which is where the jumping came in. So if you're having odd cruise issues, I suggest first checking your speedo cable.
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What size battery should I use in NY 1983 venture? I found a 10 ah battery in there. Doesn't seem to be big enough. Was thinking to getting a 22 ah Did the cable upgrade. Still has a slow turnover. Draws down to the yellow on meter when chanking.
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My new to me 1999 Venture won't pull hills with the cruise on. After reading several posts I got out my service manual and did the self-diagnostic. The vacuum actuator seemed to be moving fine, the cable was a little loose, though. I tightened the adjustment on the cable up and didn't get any more travel out of the throttle linkage. I tested the actuator with my vacuum pump and got full movement with the pump. No leaks. I tested the hose from the pump to the actuator. No leaks. I checked the pump and it is only pulling 10 inches of mercury. My gut tells me the pump is weak. How much should it pull? I also noticed the pump runs for three seconds or so before there is any movement in the linkage. Forgot to add that my calibrated wrist does not feel any stickyness in the throttle cables. The throttle snaps back smartly. Any way to check them individually without losing sync? -
Hope this is the right forum. I sold my 84 to a good friend and he has been unable to fix the speedo. Does anyone have a working speedometer? Or an entire cluster? It appears the drive broke where the cable goes in. Which approach should he take? It seems to me changing the entire cluster would be easiest. Thanks in advance.
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A huge thanks to SMSgt for this excellent article. Kent did a great job and it is much appreciated. Installing throttle cables on a Royal Star Venture. I did this project while I was doing a change over from RSV handle bars to RSTD bars. As with most jobs on the RSV you will need to remove the driver’s seat and gas tank. This not only protects the tank from damage but gives you access to the throttle/cruise control pulleys. After you have removed the tank remove the black plastic left frame neck cover then you will have complete access to the throttle cables and clutch hydraulic line. If you are doing the clutch it will need to take off the left side lower fairing and to take that off it will easier if you take off the right lower fairing as well. To make your job easier take off the left air cleaner and the mounting bracket. As far as break and clutch hoses are concerned it is a simple remove and replace. You will need to bleed the lines. If you don’t know how to do this you might seek a little help from your friends. Remove the clutch and front brake master cylinders. This is necessary to access the screws that secure the front controls and if you are doing a bar change you will need them off anyway to reinstall on the new bars. Once you have removed the master cylinders you are ready to split the throttle handle bar control/twist grip. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image001.jpg Remove the two screws securing the right handle bar control/throttle twist grip. It is easiest done with a stubbie phillips screw driver. Sometimes a long screwdriver will not fit between the fairing and the screw. I replaced my phillips screws with allen screws because they are less likely to strip out while loosening them. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image004.jpg This is showing the right control split. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image005.jpg You can take the aft (the half with the stop switch on the top) apart by just taking the wire bundle out of the slot on the side with the cables coming out of it. This will give you more working room. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image006.jpg With the control split you can slide the twist grip and all off the handlebar. If you don’t have enough slack you can loosen and rotate the handle bars down this should work for you if all else fails you may have to take the handlebars off. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image007.jpg Once the control is off the bar you can lift the grip up and out of the control giving you access to the cables. Simple rotate the cables to the slot and it will come from the grip. Note, I hadn’t separated the two halves at this point http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image008.jpg Once you have both cables loose you should feed them around the front of the triple tree so they are on the left side of the motorcycle. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image009.jpg On the left side of the motorcycle you will find the pulley assemble for the throttles and cruise control cable. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image013.jpg Slide the plastic cable guide back to give you room to work on the pulley assembly. It is the same kind as on the handlebars it should just slide one direction or the other then back. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image015.jpg Showing the cable clamp moved back to over the carburetors. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image017.jpg With the cable clamp pushed back and cables pulled to the left side of the motorcycle the pulley assembly will lay over without any trouble. This will expose the screws and make it easier to work on the cables. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image020.jpg Remove the two screws that are now on the top of the pulley case. (Picture shows screws already removed.) http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image023.jpg Opened cable pulley case. The Cruise control is the pulley on the top. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image024.jpg Another view showing the inside of the case. The one cable end in the front of the picture is the cruise control cable. Be careful not to let the spring not zing into space. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image026.jpg Lift up on the single piece of spring and the other end will come off and not be any problem. You will be able to see how it comes out once you look inside the case. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image028.jpg The hook end of the spring goes on the bottom, next to the pulley. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image030.jpg Inside of the cable case without the spring. The blue arrow is pointing at the place where the spring end will set when it is together. The red arrow is pointing where the hook end of the spring goes against the top pulley. Remember this is the cruise control pulley. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image033.jpg With the cruise control pulley removed you can see the cables going toward the carburetors and handle bars. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image034.jpg The two silver buttons are the cable ends for the throttle twist grip. Make sure you put the return in where the return cable came from and the pull where the pull cable belongs. This isn’t hard if you just pay attention. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image037.jpg Remove the screw and bracket that holds the return and pull cables going to the throttle twist grip. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image039.jpg This shows the screw and hold down bracket and the throttle cables going to the top of the last two pulleys in the case. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image040.jpg Remove the cables one at a time so as not to get mixed up. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image041.jpg Wrap the cable around the pulley the same way it came off. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image042.jpg Remove the return cable and install the new cable the same way the old cable came off. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image043.jpg Hold the new cables completely in the cable indentations. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image044.jpg Install the clamp and screw with the cables completely against the indent. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image045.jpg With both cables in and secure you will need to put the top, cruise, pulley in place. There are notches in the lower pulleys shown by the arrows and on the cruise control pulley shown by the small white squares inside the pulley. Make sure they are aligned correctly so your cruise control will work when you are done. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image050.jpg This is the bottom of the cruise control pulley. The arrows are pointing the notches that will go inside the notches in the lower pulley. Put the pulley in so at to allow it to pull the throttle open when the cruise control is set. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image053.jpg Showing the cruise control pulley in place. Notice position of cable end. It should be about the same position as when it came out. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image055.jpg Spring in place on pulley. Note position of “hook” as it fits in top pulley. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image057.jpg Spring pulled around to stop. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image059.jpg Cover back in place. Don’t forget to put the screws in. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image060.jpg Pulley case back in place with cables routed around front and cable clamp back in place. http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables_files/image061.jpg Replace all the parts you have taken off in reverse order and go for a ride. Disclaimer…… YOU CAN’T FIX STUPID. NOTE: This article was originally submitted in Microsoft Word format. Some of the formatting was lost when I converted it to htm format. Things like arrows, pointers, etc. If you have access to Microsoft Word and would like to view or download it in Word format with the original formatting, I have uploaded it here: http://www.venturerider.org/cables/cables.doc
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Well I told the old gal out for a 150 loop yesterday and two things happened... One I lost the speedo, the cable came disconnected, I'm assuming I have to remove fairing to get it back on. Second my left turn signal began to flash faster than the right, still working properly just faster than the right. Any help from any body would be appreciated. The turn signal is s little weird. Bags 84 VR 120k ride and fix it again -
Can i get an answer on which side of the horizontal rod that has a white plastic wheel on the left side of carberators does the throttle cable run?
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Hi ... It broke this morning. Fortunately I was at home, and not 1000 miles away. Part is: 41V-26313-01-00 Cable 3, Throttle (1986 Venture Royale) If anyone has one in new or good condition and can get it in the mail in the next day or so I would be very grateful, and pay a decent price. Otherwise I will have to wait the regulation two weeks it takes any of those retailers to get one to me, because they won't drop-ship. Thanks Steve
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I'm having some trouble with the driver headset on my '91 VR. At first I thought the problem was in the cable from the headset, but I put a new cable on today, and the problem persists. I had assumed this cable was the problem because my passenger was having issues, so we swapped headset cables and the problem went away. The about a week ago my headset left speaker started cutting out, so I assumed the cable was bad. As it turns out, my problem is the cable from the amp for the driver's headset has an intermittent near the strain relief. I traced it back to the amp, and I believe the last/bottom/4th cable is the one I need to replace. However, other than evilBay, I have no idea where to get one. I could tear into the connector and resolder the wires, but doing so would runing the strain relief and the shroud arounc the female connector.... What's a guy to do? Any input will be greatly appreciated...
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When I was installing a digital amp meter I read one members reason to installing the meter directly to the battery by passing the ignition key. His reason was so he could check the meter reading occasionally during the non riding season, incase the battery was not charging he could get a replacement. Well I did that also, but during yesterday's ride I came across another good reason. Rode for an hour and all was fine. Then I noticed that my tack needle was flipping back and forth. Hmmm I thought a tack cable, no it has got to me an electronic gage. Then I noticed that my amp meter was reading 12.4 so I shut my driving lights off. Went to 12.6. Now during the 1st hour I noticed that with out the driving lights my amp reading was 14.1 and with my driving lights it was 13.8. Also the OEM volt gave was down also. Soon I was feeling the engine slightly cutting out but not too bad. I was about 5 miles from the next town. The temp gage was fine. So I figured I would try to make it into town rather than making an emergency stop and take a chance the engine would die and then not get it started again. Got into town and the slower my speed the rougher the engine ran. came about 20 feet from the parking spot and all electric went out and engine died. Scratch my head. Now let me see, last night I added driving lights, rotor lights, front fender lights, and rear trunk guard lights, and the amp gage. Used relay for the driving lights, all the other lights were LEDs except the light that goes around the circumference of the roto, so I did not use relay for them. Used a lighted switch for all. 1 for amp meter, 1 for driving lights and one for all the other lights together. So after calling some members it was thought that the battery might have just totally died. But the strange thing was that the amp meter keep showing 12.5. The 12.5 meant the battery is still good. So I went about check al the fuses, but the key thing was that everything except the amp meter was dead. So then found the main fuse, and it was good. Then there it was. I noticed that the positive terminal screw was loose. The main positive battery cable came off. Now how could that be. Being in a hurry to finish the accessories add ones I missed the hole in the cable and so the cable was wedged on tight. So after about 1 hour ride the cable came loose thus causing the tack fluctuate, the engine to miss, the battery to drain. As long as I was moving a 50 mph the shaking kept the cable bumping again the positive terminal/ When I came to a almost stop the cable was no longer being shaken against the terminal and thus a dead engine. So had I not connected the amp meter directly to the battery, I probably would have tired to locate a Wal-Mart for a new battery. The rest of the ride around Hoods Canel was marvelous. Never rode it before. An after thought, maybe I should carry one of the those hugh main fuses. Under what situation would one of those blow? It looked like it might be a 50 amp to 100 amp fuse, just guessing. -
I'm looking for the end cap that threads over the speedometer threads. I want to make a tool with it. Please PM me if you have a broken speedometer cable and would like to get rid of it. I'll pay for shipping.
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Hello everyone Out on a ride today and went to shift down and couldnt without reving the engine.also when in first gear,and stopped,bike kept moving forward with clutch lever squeezed tight.Seems to be a lot of play in the lever as well.Checked the resivour and was full. any ideas.if it was cable driven i would say stretched cable but at a loss with hydrolic clutch any ideas Thanks
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Recently my 87 speedometer has started screaming like a ban-chi past 20mph. I have greased the cable but need some other ideas. Thanks
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I don't see it in the classifieds. How do I order one and how much? Thanks
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OK I haven't seen this covered so here is my question. I was pulling into a driveway today about 35 miles from hame and went to twist on the throttle and nothing, no warning, no issues before this. It still had the return pull pul but nothing for throttle. Now has anyone had this happen and if so did the cable break or just come loose. Makes it really hard to ride without the throttle. Any help would be appreciated before I start to tear it apart. Thanks
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So today I may have done a monumentally STUPID move. My new Parts bike has very nice & comfortable heavy grip with the V on the end weights of I decided to swap them out. The parts bike grips came off fairly easy. I took off the OEM ones from the left side of my bike w/o issue. The one on the throttle would not really budge. I twisted it to full throttle & gave a little more umph. Nothing ridiculous, & I heard "CLICK" now when I turn the throttle I hear a scraping noise at a certain point. ( & yes it does bind slightly & not snap back all the way) BTW I did get the grip of by using compressed air & blowing it off. (shudda done that 1st) I am assuming that I may have snapped a few strands inside on the cable since it still works & what I hear is the broken strands scraping the cable cover. 1. How difficult is this to replace? 2. Since I heard the click after turning to full throttle, would it be the cable on the front of the grip? 3. How much of a PITA is this to replace & how much of the bike will I have to tear down AGAIN? It never ceases to amaze me how I can CREATE problems to fix. The plus point is I have the parts bike with full replacement parts on hand.
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