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Showing results for tags 'bypass'.
Found 23 results
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Ok, so I saw the thread in the library about the battery bypass. I found what I think is the right wire. It's right behind the battery bow, and is white with a red stripe. Problem is the actual sensor is not there, it's been unplugged from the wire. The plastic connector is on the wire, but the sensor wire is missing. So am I looking at the right wire? And if so, how do I bypass it from there with the sensor wire missing? Thanks for the help guys. -
My tape deck was faulty so I removed it. Now the radio won't work ! Do I have to have the tape deck installed for the radio to work ? Can I just bypass it if possible ? Jim O'D...........
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I found this thread about the correct positioning of the coolant bypass valve with a couple of images of the valve that snaggletooth posted (thanks snaggletooth) and thought I would check mine since I checked the fan already and it's working. I found that my valve needs to be turned a little further to be fully in the off position, but what I also saw was that there is no plug in the small holes on the top and left of the valve and I know there never have been since I've owned the bike any way, 10 years or so. The valve in the other thread shows a screw plugging the left hole but I can't see the top. Also, I've only drained the coolant in this thing twice in the past 7 or 8 years and I drained the old coolant by pulling the hose off the top of this valve. Should I pull the bypass valve to drain old coolant, and how does the valve come out of the valve-body for draining? Turning the valve always makes me nervous. It's hard to turn and really creaks and I'm always afraid of breaking it.
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wondering if someone can help! is there anyway to bypass the class air system on my 1986 yamaha venture royale? I bought it a week ago and it isnt working. e-4 message can hear the pump clicking. took the controller out checked for soldier breaks. Im thinking this is gonna be a lot of work! so can I bypass the system so I can ride? thanks for any help! -
anyone ever bypass the class and still use the compressor if so is it as simple as putting a toggle switch on it and run manually i used the search bar and guess im not putting in the right keywords or word
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I am going to put in the bypass for the battery level sensor on my '83 VR. I notice that there is already a resistor in the line. It looks factory. Do I remove this resistor when I put the new one in or do I just add the additional resistor? -
Does getting a bunch of recorded messages bug you when you call a company for info? I stumbled across the website yesterday and ive tried a couple of the numbers and ideas and it seems to be right. The idea is that they have found some number combinations that a person can enter that will bypass all the machines when you call a company and compiled it into a list. Evidently most companies have these backdoors so the staff can dial in a hurry and bypass the stuff the rest of us have to go through to get to talk to a real person. Try this, http://www.get2human.com/ Brian
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OK so I have the red warning light flashing and the battery icon lit. PO said it was cuz he installed an aftermarket "maintenance free" battery which does not accept the sending unit for electrolyte level. Read the thread explaining how to bypass with a resistor. Tried both 1k ohm and 2.2k ohm resistors with no success. Ayone have any other suggestions?
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I got the call yesterday that I have been dreading for sometime. My Father in law, StormRaven's Dad called to say he had a heart attack 2 Fridays ago and an emergency quad bypass surgery. He got to come home Fri. He sounded weak but was in good spirits when I talked to him. Also learned my adopted mum (my parents have already passed on) goes in tomorrow for another bypass surgery. Please keep them in your prayers. Tricia
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Trying to hook in a bypass switch for the cooling fan before buttoning her back up. I've put a splice in both the black and blue wire going to the fan but am not sure which one to connect to ground and which one to the battery. Would I need a inline fuse and if so what size? Thanks.
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Well sort of, Royal Stars anyway. Hadn't seen any till day 3 (cus DynoDon brought his wing to the Central IL M&E Tuesday) Anyhow, saw a black TD going North on the 59 bypass near Poteau, OK (I think that's where I was). And, there's a red and black TD for sale just North of Longview, TX along US259. Later, Scooter Bob
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I have a few questions about the "ignition switch failure". First, let me say mine has not failed. I'm just preparing in case it does. I would like to do the bypass of the switch but before I do I would like to ask a couple of questions. Can you have the bypass wired with a toggle switch ready to use and still start the bike with the key and start button as if the bypass was not there? I have read where some have the bypass in their saddle bag ready in case the failure occurs while on the road. Why not have it in place ready to use if needed? How does the bypass work? I understand all power, except the radio, is lost when you have a failure. Once toggled and power is restored, is the key and start button still used to start the bike? I would assume so but if I knew for sure I would not ask. If not please expalin the starting procedure. When you read this and laugh just know I am ignorant when it comes to this kind of stuff, so go easy on me with your replies. Thanks...
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My 1st gen was marking its spot in the garage. Did a little checking and the little coolant bypass valve was dribbling like an old man with severe prostrate issues. So I get on VentureRider to find out more. About the bypass valve, not the prostrate. Now is this a site or not. I discover it is a common issue, not serious, and no surprise, Sky Doc has an inexpensive fix for it. With good directions that even I might be able to fix. :shock3:Which is a disadvantage because I won't wind up in the Little Shop by the Creek at Sky Doc's place, with Jean wondering how two grown men can have so much fun. All of that without having to send out an SOS for a question already asked, answered, and a cheap fix available.
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I finally bit the bullet and ordered two sets of J&M Headsets. They came yesterday and I got them installed today. Also finished replacing the cassette deck with an mp3 player and wiring it up so that I can turn it on and off with the factory radio or bypass it all together. Now warm weather please get here soon before I think of another project.
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Below is a brief description of a circuit modification to the CLASS system wiring to allow the system to be adjusted while the bike is running. This can be done with only removing the faux tank cover. I mentioned doing it in the thread below and a couple of members requested some details on it so I started a new thread detailing it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51557 I would like to preface this by saying that caution should be used if you choose to do this. Use care if you adjust air pressure in system while riding. I do not feel it will adversely affect the handling of the bike, but it will distract you. Not anymore than adjusting the CB or radio, but be careful. Yamaha states in the manual to put the bike on the center stand to adjust the air levels. A lot of people do not do this. I prefer to adjust it when sitting on bike so I can adjust ride height so I can see over the windshield. This adjustment varies depending on bike load. On 1st gen bikes with the Class system, there is an extra contact in the ignition switch that is energized only when the key is in the ACCY position. This circuit then goes to the CLASS fuse that is in a separate holder, located on the right side of the fuse panel above the battery. This fuse holder is shown in the first picture. All that is required to energize the CLASS system is to wire in a switch and fuse holder to provide positive 12 volt battery to one side of the CLASS fuse holder. I strongly recommend that you do use a switch on here so as to not power up the CLASS system all the time. I measured the current draw on the CLASS system, it pulls a little under 1/2 amp at rest and 5 amps when the compressor is running. The additional current draw full time on the system is avoidable by using a switch. The 1st gen's are known for having little extra capacity in the charging system as is. The second picture shows a switch with a fuse on the positive side. The blue wire is spliced into the existing CLASS fuse holder on the wire opposite the locking tab on the connector. This is the bottom wire in the first picture. The fused side wire is spliced into an accessible wire that is switched on when the key is in the on position. I used the wire that feeds the Accy block on the fuse panel. I attached this wire before the fuse to the Accy terminals. I did this so as to not overload the Accy fuse. The Accy terminals are energized when the key is in the ON or ACCY position. I mounted the small toggle switch in the fairing side cover. The use of a lighted switch would be helpful to show the system is energized. A lighted switch would also require a wire being run to ground to operate the switch. 16 gauge wire and a 10 amp fuse is sufficient to for this. Also attached is a partial wiring schematic showing this mod. The additional wiring is in the red 'cloud'. This is only a partial schematic, I deleted a lot of the wiring to make it easier to pick out. Complete schematics for 1st gen Ventures are at the thread below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358 Gary -
I want to remove the kickstand, but i'm not sure how to bypass the switch . Can someone tell me how? Thanks Ron -
Hi all, just got a 83 Venture xvz12 and have some headlamp issues. Somewhere down the line someone jumped the headlamp power wire directly to the headlamp. All I have is lowbeam and the icon on the display is lit up and a flashing warning lite. I suspect the Reserve lighting unit may be bad, I have battery voltage going to it at the green/red wire if I remember correctly. Is there a way to test this unit or bypass it? What exactly does this unit do? The manual does not seem to be a wealth of info here. Any other suggestions? Any input greatly appreciated,thanks, Neil. -
Well, my key was pretty hot today when I turned off my bike. Although my thermometer did say it was 97 out (in the shade), and I was riding for ~4-5 hours or so... In the sun. So, while I don't think I am having premature switch issues, I just figured it was time that I come up with a quick and easy bypass. I know that there is a write up for doing this and cutting the wires on the bike to wire up the bypass for when it fails (and I will probably do this if absolutely necessary), but what I would like to do is get a plug and play setup going, so all I have to do is unplug my faulty ignition switch and plug in my bypass (using the existing wiring). I have also considered dismantling my current ignition switch for inspection and cleaning - as an attempt at a preventative measure. Question: Does anyone have an old ignition switch (failed or not, I don't care) that you wouldn't mind sending me? Either the whole switch or snip the wires as close to the switch as possible (so I have a decent length going to the plug-in connectors left over). I'll pay shipping (obviously). Thanks in advance!! : ) - Rick -
My tape deck was faulty so I removed it. Now the radio won't work ! Do I have to have the tape deck installed for the radio to work ? Can I just bypass it if possible ? Jim O'D...........
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I want to install a toggle swith to bypass the ign switch for emergencies. I know where to hook up.... My question is. What Amp Toggle switch do I need? Will a 10amp be large enough? Thanks for the help Reaney
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Anyone have the speaker wiring diagram showing the stock amp? I'm having the cutting out issue after adding an amp. Someone had mentioned they'd had issues with the stock amp doing that when it was turned up too high. Anyone have a schematic so I can find the stock amp and bypass it for my amp in the cassette door?
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Gentlemen, I have a 1989 Yamaha Venture Royale and am in need of the print board assembly for the control unit on the CLASS. If any of you know where I might find one, I would be grateful. Also, I found the post where the gentleman explained how to bypass the CLASS. Please give me your opinions on whether or not this would be the best route to take, instead of continuing to deal with the CLASS. Thank You, Jackie the TexasYamahaMama
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:confused24:I have an 89Vr. The cruise seems to have power, (the lights light up) but the cruise doesnt work. There is a plunger switch on the clutch handle that has a broken mount(plastic thats in the housing that clips into the handle bracket). Therefore, the plunger is always open. Would this be connected to the cruise somehow? If so can I bypass it? It doesn't seem to have any other function. If this isn't the problem, does anybody have any idea where to start? Electrical isn't one of my strong points.
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