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Showing results for tags 'bushing'.
Found 21 results
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Anyone have these Kriss Starsteps? Anyone ever seen them? I happened on a pair, all grungy and over sprayed. Cleaned 'em up real nice. Mounted easily, but I'm wondering if there are some components missing. The footboard slants a little. Perhaps just a bit worn? Or maybe a bushing is needed on the cross bolt?
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I know this has been decussed before,but I need to know if I install 1 1/2 risers what do I do about the rubber bushing between the bars and fairing? Is there a replacement for this bushing?
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I have searched all night and can't seem to find the brass bushing for the clutch lever. I found the one that pushes the rod to actuate the clutch but I can't find the one where the bolt goes thru for the lever itself. Mine is egg shaped and the handle wobbles around quite a bit. Anyone know if this is replaceable? It's not shown on the Star parts list only the one that pushes the rod. Scott
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I bought and after market, Harley tour pack and the back rest offered by the manufacturer. The back rest has brackets and the lid needed to be drilled for the back rest brackets. Okay, have that. Between the back rest bracket and the bracket that bolts to the lid, they provided a rubber insulator. This turns out to be a rubber bushing of about 1 " in length with the head of a bolt embedded in each end, giving threads sticking out each end of the rubber bushing. The problem is, I haven't even finished my mounting bracket for the bike and the bolts are popping out of the rubber already. What does everyone use? I considered a piece of all thread in each of the three locations, with jam nuts on each side of the bracket. What have others done for this?
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front fork lower guide bushing
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hey, Had the local shop pull the front fork to replace the leaky seals and they came back to me with news that the lower guide bushing needs to be replaced and they're not sure they can find it. I've looked around (online) and have found a "metal, slide 1" available from a number of places but no one lists the guide bushing. This is the one at the bottom end of the inner tube... it's pressed on to the tube. Anyone know where I might get one??? Help... I can't ride till I get one cuz they won't safety certify the bike like it is. And I REALLY want to ride. I'm almost in tear every time I see a rider go by... help, please... Mark -
The heel toe shifter on my 83 is flopping around on the shaft. The hole in the aluminum shifter body has gone oval shape and it makes shifting less "secure" if that's the right word. Feels uncomfortable in that I'm not really sure I AM getting to the desired gear or if the shifter just moved under my foot. (I've rarely missed a shift...but you know what I mean.) Is installing a bushing something I can do myself? I don't really want to pay for an expensive machinist job! I am assuming I drill out the hole in the aluminum shifter to the outside diameter of a bushing that would fit tight over the shaft. What would stop the hole from wearing out again? Where does someone buy bushings?
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it's true.. i wore out the kickstand.... 07 RSV w/103k miles. it hangs down and scrapes on anything other than a very moderate left turn.. annoys heck outa the navigator............. dealership says the bushing in there is a maintenance item. ok - i can go along with that.. $9.56 for a new bushing. however - the metal on th ekickstand itself has worn so that - when stowed - it still hangs down an inch or so... New kickstand - $241 (ouch) anyway - be advised -- CHECK your bushing and replace as needed...
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On my 89 with 45,000 miles on it, the cruise control works great.....if I hold the clutch lever all the way out with my hand. When I bought the bike 2 years ago, I relplaced the bushing, but that didn't help much. There is quite a bit of play between where the clutch cylinder quits pushing the lever outward and the end of travel where the cruise control senses that the clutch is released. It seems to me that maybe I want to replace or stretch the spring that is between the clutch cylinder and the lever bushing?? Anybody have any experience with this problem?? Frank D. -
I know if I put a Road King muffler on my 08 RSV, I will have to use some custom brackets for support. My question is: will I have to use a bushing or will it slip right on the pipes without a bushing?
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With all the foul weather, the old girl is taking a cold weather nap. Started her today and noticed that oil is coming from the shifter stem. I assume there is a bushing of some type???? I have never had a drip from there before. How do I stop the drip??? joe:starz:
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I just replaced the fork seals, bushings and added progressive springs to my 88 Venture. I used the instructions from the Forum (Freebird) and got the parts from Buckeye Performance (Great person to deal with and excelent parts) everything went fine except when it came to seating the top bushing. If you have the same problem try this. Take a 3 inch piece to (1 1/2) PVC and cut one end so that it is at a 90 to the side. Then half the piece so that you can put it arround the fork tube with just the bushing below it. Then just use it like a slide hammer. This worked very well for me but remember not to try this on the seal! I wish I could say that there was a big improvement with the progressive springs but I can not realy tell because I never rode a venture before doing this upgrade. The one very big improvement is that the bike does not look like it will fall over when the side stand is down now and I can easily put it on the center stand now. Before I put the springs in I could lock the front brake and bottom out the springs I can not do that now. Harbor Freight has a set of sockets that has all the allens that you need for doing the seals and it does have the 17mm in the kit the cost is about $15 -
Looking at page 5-40 service manual, but can't get it to copy here. When the bolt that goes thru ARM-1, Relay Arm, and Lower fitting or Rear Shock is tightened down, the shock locks up to ARM-1(does not pivot freely). Can see what is happening, bushings 'G' press into bushing of lower shock and 'lock up' Bushing of lower shock appears to be molded into the rubber isolator of lower shock. It takes siginficant force to rotate shock around pivot of ARM-1, this can't be correct, can it? Can't figure any way to 1. Keep pressure of bushings 'G' off bushing of lower shock so shock bushing can rotate around bolt shank.(dont think this would be correct for shock to work directly on the bolt) or 2. Allow shock to rotate around lower shock bushing/rubber isolater Removed entire shock/link system due to this issue, installed zerk fittings and lubed. All other pivot points work great. Ideas/ Suggestions? Brian
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Gentlemen: I have a question for you. While removing the rear wheel and lifting up on the rachet which will cause the swingarm to lift also until the nut comes loose. I noticed some play in the assembly and found that the play was coming from the bushing area of the top mount on the rear shock. My question is should there be any play in this bushing at all or should it be a very tight fit at that point. I attached a picture of the shock point I am refrering to.
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Ok.....I'm about finished piecing together a Markland backrest I've been working on. The pivots were my problem and I got it worked out to what I show in the pics. My question is did the Markland use a knob and stud as a tightening device you could do by hand or was it just a bolt to hold the pivot together like I have done. Can anybody provide a pic or two of the pivot? I used a threaded spacer bushing with nylon washers on either side of the pivot disk on the support arms and metal washer that fits over the smaller side of the bushing to compress the nylons a bit. No rattle, smooth tilt action, but is it the way it should be? Trying to get it right. Mike -
Clutch lever not returning as it should. I ordered push rod and bushing. This should cure that shouldn't it?
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So my CC started acting up on me. It wouldn't stay engaged when I set it. Figuring it was one of the Micro-switches I started trouble shooting the problem. What I found was that the clutch lever wasn't returning to the completely out position. So when I pushed the lever out and held it there the CC would engage. As soon as I stopped pushing out on it the darn thing would shut off. Figured the lever was loose. Well not exactly, the darn thing has to be able to move so tightening it was out of the question. Took it apart and found the bushing inside the lever that the pushrod goes into was worn out, and I do mean OUT. I tried to rig it and that didn't work so I ended up ordering a new bushing and paying more to get it shipped to me than it cost. Put the new bushing in and CC works great now. I posted this for two reasons, the first being that someone else may have the same problem or experience the same thing in the future. And B as this was going bad I was noticing some slipping in the clutch under hard acceleration. I always suspected it was something to do with the lever and it was. The bottom of the bushing was angled from wear. When the bushing wore through it also wallered out the hole in the bushing which allowed the bushing to drop and bind where the bushing goes into the lever mount. This in turn was not allowing the clutch to come completely out (without pushing the lever out) and was staying engaged ever so slightly. Whenever I would push the lever all the way out and get on it hard the clutch never slipped, but after shifting into a gear and just releasing the clutch normally I would get a slip about 25% of the time. Sooo with that being said, some folks may have a simple $4.00 problem that could be causing their clutch to slip. Notice the hole completely through the old bushing. http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd227/SaltyDawg83/93116452.jpg This is what the backside looked like. Notice no hole in the new bushing :-0 http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd227/SaltyDawg83/b7af276d.jpg Notice the perfectly round shape of the old bushing. http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd227/SaltyDawg83/6c6142e9.jpg -
Does anyone have the bushing that goes in between the saddle bag and the fender on a 2005 RSTD? It's chrome and about 1" long. A bolt goes through the rear end of saddlebag then the bushing then into the fender. Going to need it shortly so hopefully someone has a spare they want to sell. If I can't locate one on here anybody know they part # so I can order it? Thanks and God Bless. mike
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I'm rebuilding a set of forks for the 89 VR. The online parts fiches are pretty sketchy on the slide bushing that goes on the inner fork tube. The one that presses into the outer tube is known as 3JJ-23125-00-00 METAL, SLIDE 1. Anyone have the part number for the other one? Thanks! -
I notice my shift pedal bushing has a fair amount of play/wear. It appears most of the wear is in the bushing. The bushing is not available separately....you have to buy the complete pedal assembly. Has anyone attempted or come up with a bushing replacement...dimensions/sizes?? Is the bushing material bronze? Thanks.
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The bushings that connect the upper swing arm to the lower are loose on the swing arm. When I look up the parts on line it looks like they are 2 pieces, an outer and an inner bushing. How do I get the outer one (collar) out of the swing arm? They are worn so much that the bushing wobbles inside. -
I have the Star lightbar on the front, and the other day I noticed the headlight has a little wiggle where the light bar attaches to the headlight, almost like the bushing was worn or missing. I popped the headlight out and checked the screw, and the bushing, everything seemed ok. was wondering if anyone else noticed this, and if maybe a new bushing would fix it, or something not to worry about. I work 3rd shift, and I haven't noticed any prolems with the light bouncing around at night or anything. Just an annoying thing, knowing it is there thanks Craig:crying:
