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Showing results for tags 'bulbs'.
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Hi Guys, I'm in the process of upgrading to LED bulbs on one of 86 Venture Royals. I have already converted the headlight and it sure makes a difference. I have read several articles and forum posts of guys who have already done this and there have been several references made to "Jumper the CMU for headlight, running, and brake lights" so the dash warning indicator isn't constantly lit due to the CMU thinking there is a bulb burnt out caused by the greatly reduce electrical draw from the more efficient LED bulbs. Although there is very detailed info about converting to LED's, I have not been able to find details of what the steps are to perform this "Jumper on the CMU". Any experts out there who have already performed this "jumper" process on the CMU that could point me in the right direction of which solder points I need to jumper for Headlight and Brake lights? Thanks in advance! -
Something I don't understand. I have a mini-mag light, and put the conversion kit on it to make it a LED flashlight. Powered by 2-AA batteries. Man, that makes some light. Has 3 LED bulbs in it. How come can I not get that brightness from LED lights on the back of the bike?
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I have a 2012 RSV, and I'm having a problem with the passing lights. The right side will go off and come back on at random times going down the road. Has anyone experienced this problem? Both bulbs are new and still do the same thing. Thanks for any help.
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Merry Christmas Venture family! Is it possible to get some technical advice from the electrical gurus here, I own a 08 Cadillac SRX, it has one quirk that can not seem to be solved even at the dealer! The daytime running light bulbs will burn out repeatedly . Sometimes within a week of replacing them. When that happens the signal lights will flash fast and the rear LED taillights will do all kinds of weird things. I just replaced the bulbs last week and they went out again. Both rear taillights will flash when I turn on the right or left signal and the brakes are applied. The systems are all tied together in the computer and all the research tells me its the cars way of telling me the bulbs are burned out. I have changed the bulb sockets as suggested by GM replaced the bulbs cleaned and checked the sockets and plugs. All the other lights are operational. To change the bulbs one has to remove the front wheels and take the complete inner fender off to get at the housing for the bulbs. To do both sides it can take a couple of hours. who in the world designed this? On to my question, can I replace these bulbs with a LED and hook some kind of resistor inline to fool the computer into believing it has a incandescent bulb in it? Kind of like the battery probe mod on my 1st gen? How would I find the right resistor to use ? From what I have found online the bulbs get hot, and the sockets get hard and cause a bad connection, high resistance and the element will burn out. I am not sure if the DRLs can be disabled and have everything else work as it should. Im at a loss. I wanted to sell the car but I sure would feel bad if a new owner had the problem and it caused a wreck because of the signal lights. Any ideas?
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I recently purchased a used Roto Cover. I took it all apart and cleaned it up nicely including all the electric contacts. Each side has 2 pushin light bulbs. When putting it back together I noticed that the light bulbs have some differences. I've included a picture of the light bulbs. One has a blue dot in the center and a blacker tip where it pushes into the socket. My question is, are the differences of any concerns as to which one goes into which socket. A 2nd picture is attached of the sockets. One of the sockets has an extra wire that I think is the ground.
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I had to replace a burned out bulb for my passing lamps and was reminded what a junky set up they are. Has anyone replaced the passing light buckets with something better? Perhaps something that can be adjusted without removing the bulbs? I'm good for another year or so until these bulbs burn out but I wouldn't mind finding a better set up to mount on my light bar.
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12997.1 I bought a pair of the Custom Dynamics 162 LED Passing light replacement Bulbs while I was home on R&R. I tried to install them with no luck. My issue with them is that they will not stay in the housings. I have the H-3 bulbs in them and not the actual par 36 lamp. Custom Dynamics says they will fit both housings. Has anyone had a problem installing these replacement lights? I did not have time to call CD for technical support. A friend of mine is going to attempt to install them for me. Any guidance or assistance will be appreciated. Gunner -
OK so I have been searching around looking for info on LED bulbs for the turnsignals and also the brake. What I would like to know is if you use the replacement type looking LED bulbs do you still have to put the special flasher units, resistors, controller or whatever in the mix? And I thought I read somewhere that the auto cancel function dont work with the LED's either. Something like this. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NDIzWDQ0MA==/$(KGrHqN,!oME9c54uKu(BPr+S840(g~~60_1.JPG
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Anyone... seen these? or tried them? http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/led-h4-high-low.html Or better... are they simply for "Aux" lights?
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Yamaha passing lights... where in Elyria/Oberlin can I get a 7616 bulb on Saturday ? One of my bulbs went on the way down. Don
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I took my Roadstar lights when I bought my venture, the bulbs are 55 watts, are they drawing too much power? or are the the right wattage for the Venture? I'm thinking of going to a lower wattage bulb, because of all the lights I have on the back of the bike, and for the extra lights I have on the trailer. (4 3 candle watt bulbs as runners) & the LED run, brake, & turn on the back. How many watts am I pulling when I'm running the radio, 3 head lights, and pulling the trailer? and what is the Max out put on the system?
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I read where the 1156 bulb would replace the rear turn signal but it doesn't seem to fit. Can someone tell me what bulbs will work form say autozone, etc? the 1156 doesn't have the offset pins like the stock bulb. Thanks for any assistance..
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I went for a ride today and all of a sudden when I put the left turn signal on it was very dim so I thought I had a bulb out but it would work normal sometimes so when I got home I turned it on the the bulbs would not flash but the taillight would flash. I suppose there is some control box that works it all and this is leaning me more to the Kawi and selling the VR.
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I have a set of Yamaha Driving Lites and would like to replace the sealed beam bulbs with Halogen or better sealed beam bulbs. I would like to keep the wattage down to 35/36 watts. I have looked at some sites and they have them but they show flood, wide flood, spot, narrow spot, etc. Which kind is the best for the driving lights. Can you please advise what type you think I should be looking for. I am basically looking for the best light possible with a straight replacement lamp and still using the Yamaha lite bar holders. I have searched the sites and have sent a private message to one of our members but I know technology changes daily and possibly someone has tried something lately that works well. Thanks Dana
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off of work for two-three weeks so i'll be asking alot of questions.on the harley light bar hd-68280-97b,has anyone switched to led bulbs and if so what all dose it involve?
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Several threads here got me thinking about LEDs and our bikes. After looking a the price of LED boards for the 2nd generation RSV, I was in shock, they are IMHO EXPENSIVE, but probably worth it. Not wanting to spend the dollars on lamps with unadvertised light output and being a reasonably frugal guy, I looked for an alternative. I did some research and found the following lamps are installed in our bikes from the factory. cp = Candle Power. Brake/Tail: 1157 with a Ba15d base: 32/3cp Rear Turn: 7507A with a PY21W base: 22.2cp Front Turn/Running: (Unknown bulb) with an unknown base (Still researching): 24/2.2 cp So a quick look in Sylvania Automotive Lamp Catalog I found the following bulbs with SIMILAR bases 2357LL with a Ba15d base: 40/3cp (the LL stands for Long Life. On close inspection it is actually a Krypton bulb.) 2357A with Ba15d base: 30/2.2cp (the A is for Amber coating on the bulb) So I put a 2357LL in my Brake/Tail lamp housing. It was a 25% improvement in light output on the brake light, from 32cp to 40cp!!!!! No improvement on the running light, 3cp to 3cp. BUT it is a longer life bulb. Rated life is 2,000 hours on the brake light and 10,000 hours on the running light. I then put 2357A bulbs in all of the turn signal housings, but I had to remove one of the indexing pins from them. IIRC the front and rear required different pin removal so CHECK it before you do it!!! I used a pair of small diagonal cutting pliers and cleaned it up with a file. If my math is correct I had a 35% increase in light output on the turn signals and a 36% increase in light output on the front running lights. Total cost: $9.40 (minus 10% as my local auto parts store gives a military discount) plus sales tax. WOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!! this is for two packages of two 2357A bulbs and one package of two 2357 bulbs, so I have a spare brake/tail lamp. I will try to give it to one of my H-D riding friends. So the upgrade cost me less than $10 which is quite a few dollars less than even one LED board and as an added plus they available at all auto parts stores so I did not have to pay for shipping and wait for the brown truck to arrive. Almost instant gratification. I have not seen where the LED boards list the light output (if you know this, please point it out), so I cannot compare the output levels with my inexpensive bulbs until I park next to someone with the LEDs in their bike. The LEDs have a longer life span. The LEDs also have a sharper on and off curve, which should make you more visible when using your brakes or turn signals. The LEDs require you put in a load resistor so your turn signals flash at the normal rate (there goes the power savings), or you must find an electronic flasher unit, at an additional cost, which I have not yet found but they must be made by somebody. With the money I did not spend on the LED boards, I will put that to my first set of replacement tires.........or buy several tanks of gas. Your comments are requested. UPDATE #1: I found two other bulbs that will work as tail lights, but not in the turn signals without changing the lenses as they are not offered in amber. The first is the 3496. It offers 43 CP on high and 3 CP on low. On high it yields a 31.25% increase over stock 1157 at 32 CP verses a 25% increase for the 2357LL at 40 CP but at a cost... they only have a rated live of 600 hours on the bright filament and 5,000 hours on the low, verses the 2357LL with 2,000 on the bright filament and 10,000 on the low.... also locally they are priced at $3.59 per bulb while the 2357LL are priced at $3.44 for two bulbs.... To me, the increased output of 3 CP over the 2357LL is not worth the shorter service life. The second bulb is the H1157 offered by Candlepower (Which is owned by Daniel Stern) (the H is for Halogen)and probably made by Narva. It has a 107 CP bright filament, and a 25 CP low filament!!!!!! But don't run off an buy them yet!!!!! Compared to the 1157 or 2357LL bulb the bright filament is 234% and 168% brighter respectively, but all that light comes at a cost. Only 400 hours service life and all the heat it produces MIGHT melt your tail light housing. Sorry, but I'm not going to test it on my bike!!!!!! OH and now for the bad news, they are priced at $10.35 plus shipping.... each.... The big draw back IMHO is the MUCH brighter running light. It puts out a whopping 25 CP which could be confused for a brake light by some drivers.... this running light is 733% brighter than all the other lamps!!!!!! Like I said, I will not be trying this lamp, but if you do, please provide some feedback!!!!! UPDATE #2: I have put the 3496 bulbs in the brake and turn signals on the rear and they are working fine!!!!!!!!! To bad the 3496 does not come in amber..... or I would use them in the front of this bike. UPDATE #3 I installed a 15" LED stop light under my trunk. I got it from Innovative Light in the factory seconds section HERE for under $8.... plus shipping. I got the slimline in red with retroreflective accents..... not in stock as of this posting but you can check them from time to time. UPDATE #4 This breaks the Poor mans tip but I replaced the stop/tail light with the Street Magic 100 LED Genesis II LED Tail Light from Custom Dynamics HERE and I am impressed!!!!! quick on and off time, wide viewing angle and it is BRIGHT, but it does break the bank........at $90 when I got it.....
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Im in the process of putting led light strips in the rear trunk light bar on my 91 vr. It is already wired for running ,brake , and turn signal. Im replaceing the incandescent bulbs with light strips to save on some electrical draw. Not sure if Ill replace the turn bulbs or not as they are only on briefly. I have arleady replaced the running bulbs with 2 12 inch superbright led strips. Going to replace the brake bulbs with the same size srtips. Here is the Question. Since its already wired for brake lights in there, is there a flasher module I can put inline to make the strips for the brake lights falsh instead of being solid or at least flash a few times before they go solid. Any help will be apreciated. TAhnks in advance David -
Once again I am faced with dreaded electrical issues. After successfully upgrading my fuse box (Thanks Skydoc and GeorgeS) I was feeling confident to tear apart the dash and replace all dash light bulbs and solder CMU (in way over my head with the CMU now) anyway I notice some of the bulbs are very dim and burn for a bit when key is first turn on but then flicker out. I have turned the dimmer knob up and down and although it does affect the bulbs that are lit normal it does not affect the dim lit bulbs. I would think if there was a bad ground all the bulbs would be affected, but I am far from knowing electrical issues. On a side note, anyone know of a good soldering person here in WA state? I have CMU out and apart but I am not sure I see any issues. But the battery light jumper wire MOD is not working and the gear indicator will go in and out on occasion. But other than those two issues the digital display works fine. http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/bobandlou3/Dash_Bulb.jpg -
Turned on my bike today and my lamps didnt come on....Bulbs?
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I have installed all bulbs including the dash bulbs with LED's and I can say that it was worth every penny because the load on the battery has changed from 15 amps to around 2 amps with a inductive amp meter wrapped around the ground side to see the diff. Jumper the CMU for running and brake lights and installed a 50watt 6 ohm load resistor kit on the let and right side to trick the turn signal relay just enough to have it flash. Will post pictures tomorrow of what I did and if any body needs the info on what bulbs went where I can send that to you. The total cost was around $130.00 for every bulb and the two load resistor kits. Now on to the rest of the bike to finale finish her up and give it a ride.. -
Replacing dash lights with LEDs
asigetic posted a topic in Computer, Lights, Horns, Other Electrical
I have installed all bulbs including the dash bulbs with LED's and I can say that it was worth every penny because the load on the battery has changed from 15 amps to around 2 amps with a inductive amp meter wrapped around the ground side to see the diff. Jumper the CMU for running and brake lights and installed a 50watt 6 ohm load resistor kit on the let and right side to trick the turn signal relay just enough to have it flash. Will post pictures tomorrow of what I did and if any body needs the info on what bulbs went where I can send that to you. The total cost was around $130.00 for every bulb and the two load resistor kits. Now on to the rest of the bike to finale finish her up and give it a ride.. -
I am looking for a part # for the front T/S bulb on mt 2007 RSV. I have the rear T/S, and brake bulbs but I need to find the LED bulbs for the front. these bulbs have 3 indexing pins spaced 120 degrees apart instead of 2 at 180 degrees.
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I believe the wedge bulbs that are in the Venture Line trunk and bag light bars, 1st Edition anyway, are 194's. Has anyone found a good source for buying these bulbs. The only outlet I can find is superbrightleds.com and each bulb from them is 1.98. I need only 24 of these things and really don't think they are worth $2 each. Any other recommended sources? Thanks MG Type of wedge bulb above corrected from 198 to 194.
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I am trying to bring 83 Venture back to life. I have pretty much done most of the major stuff but I have not figured out how to get into the dash to replace 3 bulbs. Is it necessary to remove the dash or can the bulbs be replaced without removing the dash. It seem like a lot of trouble to remove the dash.
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Where can I get brighter dash bulbs... L E D bulbs ? Site and numbers will help. thank you cb
