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Dear Owner's Manual: I know you say simply, "If the headlight bulb burns out, replace it as follows. 1. Disconnect the headlight coupler and then remove the headlight bulb cover." 2. Remove the headlight bulb holder by turning it counterclockwise and then remove the defective bulb." Excuse me sir.........I'm stuck back at HOW THE HECK DO I GET AT THE HEADLIGHT COUPLER!?! Anyone? Do I need to remove the fairing? Or just that one allen screw on the headlight chrome trim ring? (I tried that........and nothing else seems to want to pop off.) Or do I hire a tiny little person with tiny little hands, to reach in behind the fairing, in front of the steering head? Tips?

I have a '83 standard that I have been altering the electrical system since I got it last year. So far I have added the Shindengen R/R, a cooling fan run timer, a Internatrix security alarm, replaced the fuse box with a ATO style, moved the TCI onto the top of the airbox and today I would like to share the installation of a HID Bi-Xeon headlight. [ATTACH]37353[/ATTACH] I bought the HID kit on Ebay for only $58.00 and the shipping was free from Hong Kong. The package arrived in 6 days! I had followed the previous thread on the projector type headlight replacement but didn't like the change in the front look of the bike. I like the square headlight and I wanted to see if I could find a good H4 HID kit to increase the light output and longevity. I found this kit on Ebay Item number:170371397794 and I went ahead and purchased it. When it arrived, I was pleasantly surprised with the completeness of the kit and the ease of installation. [ATTACH]37354[/ATTACH] I decided to mount the slim ballast in the fairing next to the headlight frame using dual-lock mounting strip (super velcro!!). This makes it very accessable and adds cooling if neccessary. The included relay module (routes 12v direct from battery) was secured behind the left turn signal inside the fairing cavity. I use this space to mount additional relays for my drivinglights, dual fanfare horns and cooling fan timer relays. This space is easily accessed and fairly protected from heat and weather. I had previously installed a 20W halogen (type BA9s) light bulb into the metal headlight reflector. This gave me a daytime running light to reduce the unnecessary useage of the main headlight and reduced the amp draw on the charging system. I incorporated this smaller bulb into the new headlight circuit by installing a rocker switch on the left side fairing next to my 12v receptacle. The rocker switch selects between the 20W halogen daytime running light and the HID low beam setting (daytime or night selection). I have only had the HID system installed a short time but I am very pleased with the function. The HID bulb is tilted in it's socket by a solenoid to change between high beam and low beam. The bulb stays energized all the time so the light output stays constant. The bulb just tilts upward for the high beam. The kit is marketed for motorcycle use so I expect it should stand up to use on the Venture. Only time will tell....

I know this has probably been asked a million times but I'm truly having a hard time finding it. What is the best direct replacement headlight for the Second Gen Royal Star Venture. Was gonna go with the silverstar ultra, but i hear they dont last long. Remember someone saying something about a bulb that started with a P... but i cant find the thread? So whats a good bulb to run

Inspired by THIS POST, I installed the Electrical Connection Turn Signal Conversion Kit (EC-01315, bought HERE) on my 2006 Royal Star Tour Deluxe. There was one crucial step that was puzzling, and I made a few false steps. What follows is what I would do if I had to do it over again. I am posting this in the spirit of sharing lessons learned. *Insert more disclaimer stuff* I got a rolling seat for Christmas as well as two magnetic parts dishes. These were great for not losing parts. Spend a minute and organize where you'll put stuff. 1. Put the bike up on a stand. I love the Carbon_One "RSV / RSTD Lift Frame Adapter" as sold HERE, especially with the legs. Puts the bike solidly at a good working height. Note that you will want the bike up in the air, since you will be working inside the rear fender. 2. Remove the blinker lens cover and silicone-glue in the LEDs as per the instructions. Note that although the LEDs are white, they will shine red. 3. We'll do the hard part one side at a time, and for fun's sake I'll pick the left side. The turn stalk is in two parts held together with a bolt. Before you loosen the stalk, remove this bolt to let the halves pull apart. Doing it while the stalk is on the bike is simply more convenient because it is solidly anchored. 4. Go inside the rear fender and unclip the left turn signal wire. There are three thin metal clips that hold the wire inside the fender. Bending them out and freeing the wire will give you slack. Note that dirt may fall out of your fender and into your eyes. Be smarter than me and use eye protection when you look up into a crud caked fender. 5. Remove the two bolts and heavy clip that hold on the left turn stalk. Note that the turn stalk may flop and ding your fender paint. Just be aware. You can push the slack wire out the exposed fender hole. 6. With the turn signals dangling, use a screw driver to pry apart the slot in the outer stalk, allowing you to separate the stalk into two parts. 7. Now, examine what you have and what you have to do. You will need to somehow thread the LED leads past the turn bulb seat and through the stalks. This is the step that stymied me for a while. Once I figured that out, the right side took 15 minutes. There are undoubtedly many solutions, but this is what I did: 8. I removed the bulb, then removed the two screws and thin metal strip that holds the bulb seat. 9. I used a metal skewer to slide from the stalk end into the blinker housing, between the rubber bulb seat and the metal outer housing. The bulb seat seems to be affixed, perhaps with glue but more likely a tight fit and age. I thought I was going to use the skewer to make a hole for the wires to go. Instead, I noticed the bulb seat was moving into the blinker housing. The skewer seemed to have broken whatever bond there was, holding the bulb seat in. Using a pair of pliers, I gave a gentle pull and the bulb seat came free. There were two wires still attached to the bulb seat, so I had to be gentle. 10. With that crucial step completed, I used the supplied vinyl tubing to thread the LED leads through the housing, then through the other part of the stalk. At this point, untwist the LED leads so that they will lay flat between the rubber bulb seat and metal housing. 11. Reinstall the rubber turn signal bulb seat. I ended up having about 2.5" of LED lead sticking out, situated on the bottom of the housing. I don't think it matters much, but make sure you keep plenty of wire showing as you shove the bulb seat back into place. I happened to have a 6mm socket handy, and it fit perfectly into the bulb seat. I used that to press the seat in evenly. I did not get it all the way back in how it was. Perhaps 1mm extra is sticking out and it threatens to contact the bulb. But since the bulb only blinks intermittently, I am unconcerned. If you are concerned, maybe you could take more care than me. *TIP: Use WD-40 to lubricate the outside of the turn signal seat. That will allow the seat to slide in easily and not damage the LED leads. Electrical Connection says that this is the location with the most frequent problems--a pinched wire. They will cut a groove into the seat with a Dremel, but that seems risky to me. See my post below describing the problems I had. 12. I went ahead and reinstalled the amber turn bulb. This involved installing the metal strip and two screws that holds the housing in place. This is when I noticed how slack my attempt to reinstall the bulb seat was. Oh well, the bulb fit in and works. The steps 8-12 above took me 2+ hours to figure out, even with some hints from VentureRider.org. Lots of anguish over this. But the result seems pretty good, and took 15 minutes on the other side. I think making sure the wires are flat is important. 13. I used the skewer inside the supplied vinyl tubing to push the tubing through the rubber gasket holding the wires through the fender. Then I fed the wire through the tubing and into the inside of the fender. Almost home! I pulled out the tubing when it was all fed through. 14. My wife helped me for two minutes as I re-installed the turn stalks. She held it in place while I pulled the slack out of the wire, pushed the wire back over the retaining clips (including the new LED leads), and installed the heavy clip + two bolts. Wiping dirt from my eyes, I crawled out and put the turn stalk halves together using the nut and bolt. It looks like there is some red locktite on this bolt, but I don't have any. I'm not sure anyways. I'll make sure to check the bolt. 15. Remove the license plate to expose wiring. I was greatly surprised to see that there was a bundle of wiring back there. This is, I think, what the instructions in the Shop Tip mean about the "mustache. " I have a mustache, but I don't think my bike does. Anyways, this is where I did all the connections. I snipped the zip-tie holding the bundle together. Maybe there is a better way to unbundle than snipping. Will someone let me know? Separating the bundle and looking at the wires, you can make sense of how the wires come out of holes on the fender from either side. You can see which wires feed the left turn signal and which feed the right turn signal. 16. [Optional] remove the brake light lens cover. That way you can see the blue and yellow wires that operate the turn signal. I found it handy to have that visual color cue as I did the wiring. 17. I used the same piece of vinyl tubing plus the skewer to poke through the fender again and into the license plate area. I pulled the slack out of the LED leads, removed the tubing, and got more dirt in my eyes bending the retaining clips back inside the fender. At this point, the left side wiring is done. If you are nervous (I was), turn on your lights to make sure your turn signal still works. 18. Do the right side, learning from the left side. If you want, you can do the connection stuff for the left side first so that you can see how the turn signal gasket goes back using the right side as a guide. The gaskets for the turn signal lenses constantly fell out for me, and I eventually just learned how they went back. I did the right side wire-routing first, before doing the connections behind the license plate. 19. With the right side done too, you can start the wire connections. I found this part scary, because I am not an electrician. But connecting the supplied heavy red-green-blue wires turned out to be easy. 20. I snapped the T-Tap onto the heavy Blue and Yellow wires from the brake light. 21. I wound together the two green wires from the supplied three-wire strands, and then crimped on a one connector. That's what they mean in the instructions that "The 2 greens can be connected together." (Hey, go down and read Step 30 and make a decision about how much wire you need.) 22. I wound together the two blue wires from the supplied three-wire strands, and then crimped on a one connector. That's what they mean in the instructions that "The 2 blues can be connected together." 23. Now you have a blue and a green connector ready to plug into the T-Taps on the blue and green break wires. What would you do? I assumed the blue wire connector went to the blue wire T-Tap. That turns out to be wrong. The supplied blue wire connects to the T-Tap on the yellow brake wire, and the supplied green wire goes to the T-Tap on the blue brake wire. If you do it backwards (I did), all that happens is that the LEDs come on all the time with brake-strength. If you do it right, they LEDs come on with running-strength, and power up when you pull the brakes. 24. At this point, I completed the instructions for the left side. That means connecting the supplied red wire to the black/white LED lead. Oh, it also means cutting the LED leads to length, and stripping the wire. You also use a T-Tap to connect the black LED lead to the colored turn signal wire. The turn signals have a color wire and a black wire; tap the colored one coming from the correct side of the bike. Left LED lead goes to left colored wire, etc. At this point, I experienced my first real dissatisfaction. The skinny LED lead simply does not want to stay in the crimped connector. I used vise grips to crimp the snot out of it, but I know it will pull out. I plan to get a soldering iron and make sure the connection is solid. Luckily, all I have to do to access these flimsy connections is remove the license plate. 25. Plug in the leads onto the LEDs glued to the left turn signal lens, following the directions. 26. I turned on the bike and, GLORY!, I had a dazzlingly bright red LED running light! Try the turn signals. It works! Pull the brake handle. The LEDs get even brighter (if you connected the blue/green wires correctly; supplied blue=>yellow brake, supplied green=>blue brake). 27. Turned off the bike, stuff the leads into the housing, make sure the gasket is correct, and screw the lens cover back on. The entire left side is done. 28. Do the right side, trying not to grumble too much about the crimped connector. Plug in the leads, test it, and reassemble the lens. Note: while the leads on the right side clearly had a black and white stripe, down at the plug end I really couldn't tell which wire was which. When I tested the light, the LEDs did not come on. Simply switching the plugs made it work. 29. With the wiring all complete now, test it to make sure the functions are working. At this point, I realized the LEDs were burning at full brake-strength all the time. I switched wires. You can never do too much testing. 30. [if you did step 16] Put the brake cover back on. 31. Now put all the wires back into the nook behind the license plate. Reinstall the plate. I realize now that I should have cut the red/green/blue wire bundles, because there is a huge amount of wire trying to be jammed into the small nook. You have maybe 6" of wire when you need only a couple inches. The pre-stripped wire ends were simply too appealing, and I should have cut them. Now I have no spare connectors so I am kinda stuck. I'm going to a electronics/electrical parts store to see if maybe I can find some more connectors. I'll cut the wires when I solder the LED leads. 32. There is no step 32, because after step 31, you are done. Well, at this point you can take pictures and feel a bit of pride. You can also let me know if I screwed something up in these instructions. Sharing lessons-learned is one of the best parts of this site.

Headlight low-beam burned out, and I would like to replace with the SilverStar Ultra. Anyone got the part number for the SilverStar Ultra bulb for an 08 Venture? Do places like AutoZone or Advance Discount Auto carry them? Thanks in advance!

If anyone plans to purchase an HID Conversion Kit, take my advice .... MAKE SURE it includes the ADAPTER ! This adapter is necessary in order for the HID bulb to fit properly in the stock headlight bulb hole. I ordered a kit from a local (to me) supplier who advertises "plug and play" ... but it did not include the adapter so, it ain't quite plug and play without it. Luckily I was able to find a local supplier of various adapters and it appears one of them "might" work. Barring that, I saw a thread on that "other forum" where Rocky had made one out of PVC.

Last week, I noticed that the dash-board turn signal indicator on my '05 RSTD was blinking awfully quickly. I remembered from cars I owned in the past that this might mean a burned out bulb doing something to the circuit (and might even be built into the system to alert the drive to a faulty bulb?). Sure enough, neither the REAR flashers or the rear running lights (same single element bulb) were not working . I checked both bulbs and they looked okay and passed a continuity test. The interesting part of this is that the FRONT turn signals still work. I assumed the turn signal relay, a DENSO 066500-4120 FB257H, might be bad but if so how could the front signals and running lights still be working? So my question to you all is this; does the fact that the front flashers/running lights still work mean that the relay is okay and that the problem with the rear lights must be something else? Perhaps a lose connection elsewhere? Photo of the relay is attached. Thanks for any collective wisdom.

On my in to work this morning my low beam went out everything is okay hi beam and charging.. So my question is I have the rubber boot off and bulb unplugged, does that bulb just pull out or does it need to be turn, there is a clip there as well and does that need to be remove... Geez I wish my daughter was here her hands are much smaller... Thanks in advance

I need some help...I just recently switched to LED turn, run and brake lighting. They work great thanks to Custom Dynamics. I also changed my driving lights to LED Sun spots and they too are great. So here's the problem: I have a Phase 7 LED headlight to replace the original, but HOW DO YOU OR CAN YOU REMOVE THE METAL HOUSING BUCKET FROM THE GLASS? I need the housing in order to mount the new LED bulb. Is this possible because without the metal housing I cannot mount the new LED bulb? If I cannot use the metal housing can anyone shed some light on a possible alternate solution. I really cannot use the LED driving lights with a regular headlight bulb because it doesn't look good at all. Thanks in advance:) Jakbag

When my bike was imported new to the Uk, the turn signals had to be changed so they only flash when turning & then are off. But I know from your bikes & my previous 'Wing, yours are on all the time. Do any of you know how this is done? Is it by the wiring, if so where would it be, or by a special bulb or something. Greatful for all your knowledgeable help.

Hello Everyone: I recently learned from a close friend that if your third brake light bulb burns out it will cause your cruise control to not function. He had it happen on his Chevy/GMC Colorado Pickup last week. I used the cruise yesterday morning on the way to my parents home about an hour away. It worked fine on the trip down, however it did not work on the way home. I remembered the tip and checked the brake lights on my 06 Dodge Ram 1500 and sure enough the 3rd brake light at the top rear cab was out. I purchased a new bulb and now the cruise works again. Not sure how many makes and models of vehicles this happens to, but I wanted to pass the info along.

87 venture-headlight and dash recently went out. cant find blown fuse and bulb oms ok..w-d40 ignition switch-no change

Yamaha passing lights... where in Elyria/Oberlin can I get a 7616 bulb on Saturday ? One of my bulbs went on the way down. Don

Can anyone inform me of which " xenon or hid bulb to install in my 03 venture..i dont want to replace the housing ..just the bulb on my headlight and passing lamps...thanks.

hi guys, just wanted to say I've installed an HID headlight conversion kit on my Midnight Venture and wow.. talk about sweeeeeet! Installation was rather quick and easy, mostly all plug and play and instead of burning a 55/65W headlight, now I'm burning a 35W HID (Hi / Lo single bulb). They achieve the hi lo beam by means of an actuator that retracts the bulb into a housing etc. Neat.. they do warn you not to flash them fast though. But they assured me its 100% ok for normal usage.. just don't flip them hi lo rapidly.. How bright? wow, I was impressed. it 'throws' lights well ahead of you, illuminating everything well. Dang.. and I thought my last 'super bulb' was good.. Installation is simple and easy to do. Its MUCH easier to do this part with the bucket removed from the bike, simple to do.. You remove the H4 bulb and install the HID H4 bulb in, with the weather seal behind it. Re-install the bucket into place and run your cables. Depending how much stuff you're already hiding under the fairing, you'll have to figure out where to install everything. There is a slim ballast which I velcro'd to the right side of the inner fairing (throttle side of the bike). Plug in all the cables and leads, you can't mess this up as they are all one size for each and weather sealed. You can ground the unit within the fairing frame but will need to run a new power lead back to the battery through the fairing, under the fuel tank to reach the battery. There is a 10A fuse provided which I cut and moved down to the battery area. If I blow the fuse, I certainly don't want to rip the fairing apart to reach it Once everything is tightened up and tucked away, turn on the ignition. The light flashes brightly as it ignites and then warms up to a bright white light rather quickly, especially when it's cold. If the light is already warm you don't notice the flash up when you start. I left it on for 30 mins to make sure I wouldn't have any heat issues and I couldn't feel any heat from any of the components such as the ballast or relay etc.. However, the headlight itself is warm. Did I say it was BRIGHT? hehe.. I'll have to adjust it by trial and error so I don't get cagers flashing me all night long.. Additionally, I also installed the Afterburner LED highway lights on my engine guards. They don't really stand out at all in bright daylight, but cloudy days, dusk and especially at night they are rather eye piercing from any angle.. wow. I hope to have photos of these lights later this week depending on the weather. The HID kits and Afterburner lights can be obtained from this Canadian company at an amazing price, the owner is super helpful, even called me after I left him an email asking about some of the components I was working on. http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/ http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/images/hid_kit.jpg http://canadiancruisercustomizing.com/images/afterburnerdl.jpg

I read where the 1156 bulb would replace the rear turn signal but it doesn't seem to fit. Can someone tell me what bulbs will work form say autozone, etc? the 1156 doesn't have the offset pins like the stock bulb. Thanks for any assistance..

Changed the bulb on my 2001 RSV tonight,split the fairing etc. and started the bike up and no low beam.So I checked the old bulb with a multi meter and it shows the old bulb is good.Any ideas anyone?My bike has no modulator.When I tear into it again I am going to check the pigtail to the headlight for current on low and high beam.I am thinking either wiring problem or the switch.Any other things I should check?I do have high beam and running lights work.

Guysneed some help. went to replace my tailight bulb on my 99RSV with led board, blew the 15amp fuse. but it in again was ok for a few min, so I put the tools away. blew the fuse. changed fuse put old bulb in seems to be fine. Is there something else I need to do to put this so called plug and play led. its the 32 not the 100.

Well, the Canadian Cruiser Custom HID light that I installed last April has developed a mind of it's own. Sometimes it won't light up and when it does light, when it decides it goes out. It did that several nights ago, so thank goodness for the passing lights!!! The middle little "bump" in the bulb is cloudy, and I don't remember if it was that way when I installed it. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot this kit, to determine if the bulb has failed or if the ballast has gone out? Oh well, for now the bike has a brand new Silverstar Ultra installed.

10 years ago I put in a Xenon bulb. It was slightly better than stock. I am sticking w/ 55/60watt- NOT changing wattage. Many manufactures claim better / whiter light output. BUt I find some of this to be just advertising hype. So , what if any 55/60 bulb have any of you used that made an Obvious or dramatic difference in lighting up the road ? No- I am NOT changing to HID. I am only interested in doing a simple change.

I went to go for a late afternoon ride today,(its 65 out in NW Arkansas). While doing my pretrip, I found that I have no:( High beam, I changed the bulb and it still is out. I have no powerr to the bulb from the comp. I know that there is a fix somplace in the 1st gen teck area, but I'm unable to locate it. I would like some smarta$$ remarks and then maybe someone could point me to the tec page on the repair. I do not want to pull the dash so I'm stuck with the rewire,by the way its an 83.

Malibu Headlamp Replacement Rob Spiegel, Senior Editor, Automation & Control 11/23/2011 GM seemed to get a lot of things right when it introduced the new Generation 7 Chevy Malibu in 2008. I got one of the higher-end models with a six-cylinder engine and a very smooth shifting six-speed automatic transmission. I was generally happy with the car until a headlamp bulb burned out. I went to the local auto parts store and bought a replacement bulb for about $12. Then I popped the hood and found that I couldn't get to the back of the headlight assembly. The owner's manual was no help at all -- its advice was to consult the dealer for bulb replacements. A quick Internet search revealed the awful truth: To replace the headlight bulb, you needed to remove the front bumper (among other parts). The dealer confirmed this and quoted $150 labor to replace one bulb. The steps needed to replace the headlight bulb are as follows: Open the hood and remove the plastic cover above the radiator (14 screws). Jack up the car and remove the wheel (five lug nuts). Remove the wheel-well liner (15 screws and pop-rivets). This exposes two bolts that hold the bumper in place; remove these bolts and slide off the end of the bumper. Now, you can reach the three bolts that hold in the headlight assembly; remove the headlight assembly and replace the bulb. Replace everything (29 screws, nuts, bolts, and pop-rivets). If you think you might as well replace both lamps while you're at it, you'll still have to remove the other front wheel, wheel-well liner, the other side of the bumper, and the other headlight assembly (25 additional fasteners). In my Toyota Camry, I could replace both headlight bulbs in less time than it takes to read this paragraph -- without needing a single tool. Just open the hood, twist the bulb socket a quarter turn to remove it, and plug in the new bulb. What's next? Will we have to remove the dashboard to change the oil? Remove the rear seats every time we get gas? I can't believe that there wasn't a way to provide easier access to parts that require replacement many times over the life of a car. Maybe the monkeys who designed the car don't think it's going to last very long?

Hi I'm sure some owners have already fitted a HiD light bulb kit to their bikes. I made the attempt today. I wired the red and black ring terminals directly to their respective battery terminals. When I turned the key on....nothing happened. No light on High or Low I checked the kit fuse and refitted the Halogen bulb it is fine. Any suggestions? Thanks TH

Several threads here got me thinking about LEDs and our bikes. After looking a the price of LED boards for the 2nd generation RSV, I was in shock, they are IMHO EXPENSIVE, but probably worth it. Not wanting to spend the dollars on lamps with unadvertised light output and being a reasonably frugal guy, I looked for an alternative. I did some research and found the following lamps are installed in our bikes from the factory. cp = Candle Power. Brake/Tail: 1157 with a Ba15d base: 32/3cp Rear Turn: 7507A with a PY21W base: 22.2cp Front Turn/Running: (Unknown bulb) with an unknown base (Still researching): 24/2.2 cp So a quick look in Sylvania Automotive Lamp Catalog I found the following bulbs with SIMILAR bases 2357LL with a Ba15d base: 40/3cp (the LL stands for Long Life. On close inspection it is actually a Krypton bulb.) 2357A with Ba15d base: 30/2.2cp (the A is for Amber coating on the bulb) So I put a 2357LL in my Brake/Tail lamp housing. It was a 25% improvement in light output on the brake light, from 32cp to 40cp!!!!! No improvement on the running light, 3cp to 3cp. BUT it is a longer life bulb. Rated life is 2,000 hours on the brake light and 10,000 hours on the running light. I then put 2357A bulbs in all of the turn signal housings, but I had to remove one of the indexing pins from them. IIRC the front and rear required different pin removal so CHECK it before you do it!!! I used a pair of small diagonal cutting pliers and cleaned it up with a file. If my math is correct I had a 35% increase in light output on the turn signals and a 36% increase in light output on the front running lights. Total cost: $9.40 (minus 10% as my local auto parts store gives a military discount) plus sales tax. WOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!! this is for two packages of two 2357A bulbs and one package of two 2357 bulbs, so I have a spare brake/tail lamp. I will try to give it to one of my H-D riding friends. So the upgrade cost me less than $10 which is quite a few dollars less than even one LED board and as an added plus they available at all auto parts stores so I did not have to pay for shipping and wait for the brown truck to arrive. Almost instant gratification. I have not seen where the LED boards list the light output (if you know this, please point it out), so I cannot compare the output levels with my inexpensive bulbs until I park next to someone with the LEDs in their bike. The LEDs have a longer life span. The LEDs also have a sharper on and off curve, which should make you more visible when using your brakes or turn signals. The LEDs require you put in a load resistor so your turn signals flash at the normal rate (there goes the power savings), or you must find an electronic flasher unit, at an additional cost, which I have not yet found but they must be made by somebody. With the money I did not spend on the LED boards, I will put that to my first set of replacement tires.........or buy several tanks of gas. Your comments are requested. UPDATE #1: I found two other bulbs that will work as tail lights, but not in the turn signals without changing the lenses as they are not offered in amber. The first is the 3496. It offers 43 CP on high and 3 CP on low. On high it yields a 31.25% increase over stock 1157 at 32 CP verses a 25% increase for the 2357LL at 40 CP but at a cost... they only have a rated live of 600 hours on the bright filament and 5,000 hours on the low, verses the 2357LL with 2,000 on the bright filament and 10,000 on the low.... also locally they are priced at $3.59 per bulb while the 2357LL are priced at $3.44 for two bulbs.... To me, the increased output of 3 CP over the 2357LL is not worth the shorter service life. The second bulb is the H1157 offered by Candlepower (Which is owned by Daniel Stern) (the H is for Halogen)and probably made by Narva. It has a 107 CP bright filament, and a 25 CP low filament!!!!!! But don't run off an buy them yet!!!!! Compared to the 1157 or 2357LL bulb the bright filament is 234% and 168% brighter respectively, but all that light comes at a cost. Only 400 hours service life and all the heat it produces MIGHT melt your tail light housing. Sorry, but I'm not going to test it on my bike!!!!!! OH and now for the bad news, they are priced at $10.35 plus shipping.... each.... The big draw back IMHO is the MUCH brighter running light. It puts out a whopping 25 CP which could be confused for a brake light by some drivers.... this running light is 733% brighter than all the other lamps!!!!!! Like I said, I will not be trying this lamp, but if you do, please provide some feedback!!!!! UPDATE #2: I have put the 3496 bulbs in the brake and turn signals on the rear and they are working fine!!!!!!!!! To bad the 3496 does not come in amber..... or I would use them in the front of this bike. UPDATE #3 I installed a 15" LED stop light under my trunk. I got it from Innovative Light in the factory seconds section HERE for under $8.... plus shipping. I got the slimline in red with retroreflective accents..... not in stock as of this posting but you can check them from time to time. UPDATE #4 This breaks the Poor mans tip but I replaced the stop/tail light with the Street Magic 100 LED Genesis II LED Tail Light from Custom Dynamics HERE and I am impressed!!!!! quick on and off time, wide viewing angle and it is BRIGHT, but it does break the bank........at $90 when I got it.....

Need urgent help. I'm getting ready to leave for Biketoberfest in the AM and my brake lights quit working on my '04 Midnight Venture. I removed both seats and loosened up the wires underneath and the brakes started working again so I'm pretty sure it is a short somewhere. Now they have stopped working again. While troubleshooting voltage/grounds at the bulb socket I must have blown a fuse because now the tail light portion of the bulb does not work. Can anyone tell me where the fuse is for the tail/brake lights? Also, the grounds check good. Thanks for any help or suggestions