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How do I know if I have a bad rear shock?
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I'd like to know how do I know if I have a bad rear shock. When I ride with a passenger it seems to bottom out easily. But I'm 300 lbs. & my wife weighs about 140 lbs. So I realize there is some weight on there. I have one of those hand pumps and I give it a few pumps before we both ride, but it seems we still bottom out easily. When I ride alone it takes a pretty extreme bump to make me bottom out. -
We are in the process of rebuilding our VR Assistance List. If you can and are willing to offer assistance to a member who is riding through your area, please edit your profile to include that information. Simply click on "Settings" at the upper right of the page and then scroll down to "Edit Profile". Near the bottom you will find a place to select "yes or no" in regards to offering local assistance and then a place to select services that you may be able to offer. Cowpuc just mentioned in another thread another, and maybe easier, way to get to it. Click "forum actions" in the small menu at the top. Select edit profile. Scroll down and you'll see where to select your information.
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Yesterday I installed a modification that allowed me to categorize our smilies making them easier to find and also allows you to save your 20 most used smilies in your own "My Favorites". We had something similar on the old site and several people had requested that it be brought back. Installing this modification though created a conflict with the bottom navigation bar that others had requested. This was a navigation bar at the bottom of the page that prevented you from having to scroll all the back to the top of a thread. After installing the smilies mod, I spent WAY too long trying to figure out why it wouldn't work properly before finding that the bottom navbar was causing the issue. I then spent WAY too long trying to figure out how to modify the navbar mod so that it would work with the smilie mod. I failed. They will just not co-exist together. I had to decide which was the more useful modification and decided that the smilie modification was probably most useful. I still knew though that some people find it a real bother to have scroll back to the top after reading the last post of a thread. So.....I did a simple modification that adds only buttons to get back to the top of the thread that you are reading or back to the list of threads in the forum that you are in. At the bottom of the last post in a thread is a "quick navigation" drop down menu. You will now find two buttons beside it. One says "GO" and the other says "Top". If you click on the "GO" button, it will take you back the top of the forum that you are in with a list of all the threads. If you click on the "Top" button, it will take you back to the first post in the thread that you are reading. There are other links in the drop down menu. Back to forum home, other forums, etc. but those two are just click and go so you don't have to click on and then scroll down in the drop down menu. I think that this accomplishes what you wanted with the bottom navigation bar.
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Here are the pics of my RSTD with Tour Pak added. This version was an aftermarket copy of the HD tour pack and had the rib in the bottom to sit atop the HD mounting bracket. I used my belt sander to take that off then welded up some square tubing to make the mount. I then put some rubber between my mount and the bottom of the tour pack, using 1/4" bolts and lock nuts. The back rest that came with it broke the rubber mounting blocks our first time out, so I ordered better replacements from McMaster Carr as suggested on this site. I'll be making another bracket at some point just to get a bit more sylish and maybe I'll have that one powder coated or chromed. This one just has some black RustOleum on it.
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ANy Advise Out There!!!! I purchased my 02 Midnight Venture about 3 years ago with 100 miles. Basically, new but had been sitting for a 2 plus years. From day one the biike has been bottoming out. I had the rear shock checked by two dealer and both said the shock was fine and not leaking. Well afetr two years of fighting with Yamaha I finally got them to replace the shock. Had the shock installed and wouldn't you know it ....my first time out with two up we bottom out. I must admit that the bike didnt bottom out as much but it did and I couldn't believe it. When ridding two up our total weight does not exceed 380 pounds. Can it be something else? Is there any other setting that can be adjusted to get the tire more clearance from the rear fender? What I have read so far seems to suggest that most rsv shock problems have to do with oil leakage ....that hasn't been the case here.......any suggestions? Thanks
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These are the pictures of my new fuse block. The block came off of the ebay site for about $10 or $12. The fuses are in the exact order as they were originally in except the accessory fuse was moved from the top to the bottom by extending that wire, by doing this I got more slack in the cables to put on the new crimp connectors.In moving the accessory fuse to the bottom I was also able to jump to the next fuse possession which gives me the benefit of adding another fuse for another accessory but you will have to remember not to go over the 10 amp total for both accessory fuses. I removed the old glass fuse block and used the bottom screw to mount the new fuse block and drilled another hole in the battery mounting bracket and used a brass screw and nuts to mount the top of the new fuse block. This brass screw became my accessory ground and strain relied for the bikes cable assembly. The new fuse block came with a cover but it was too tall to allow for the bikes top cover to mount so I had to leave it off. I did use dialectic grease on all the connections. I did this last year and have been very happy with it. I got a lot of the ideas from other posts on Venture Rider.
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How does one insert pictures in the "Insert Thumbnail" section that shows up at the bottom of the posting?
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All I get is a blank screen, and at the bottom of the "Forums" page there is no statistics for chat...
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The Jayhawker's are taking down the Mountainer's. You've already lost to one Kansas (St) school, might as well loose to the bottom dwellers. GO JAYHAWKS :rasberry::rasberry:
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Hopefully this posting works! Thought you folks might find this interesting. Edit: cut off sentence from bottom right reads " where you want the full pop with throttle response, but in traffic......."
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I've got a pair of Wolo Bad Boy air horns on my 89. The left one is newer because it was replaced after a crash. The design of the left is a bit different than the right, it does not have that apparent intake hole like the right one and the Stebel horn has. The left horn started sounding pretty weak. I tore into it expecting to find a nest of some sort in the intake hole, which I never found. In my search I noticed that there are a pair of holes in the bottom which are apparently used to hold the brushes back during installation (at least that's what I used them for on reassembly). Since I had the armature out I lubed the bearings. That solved the problem. My guess is some dirty water got in through the bottom holes which put some drag on the shaft. The last couple rides before it acted up were wet and sloppy. The older horn has the same holes and I suspect is vulnerable to the same problem. **EDIT** Didn't mention: The armature can be removed by removing the brush plate at the bottom. There are a pair of phillips screws near the electrical terminals. Putting screws back is not fun because magnets pull them out of alignment with the holes. I stuck the ends of a paper clip through the holes to hold the brushes back during assembly.
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Expert ideas? Ive got this new sound in the last few days that seems to be coming from low in the bottom left front of the crankcase. When the engine is idling there is no clatter noise and it only seems to appear when I am under light to medium acceleration (I dont know if it makes it under WOT as the mufflers are making too much noise), as soon as I back off the throttle or pull in the clutch the noise goes away. The noise is not loud in 1st gear and seems to increase in 2nd and 3rd gearand continues in 4th and 5th. I am afraid it sounds to me like ive got a spun bearing somewhere in the transmission, but I need some experts (........and you guys too:stickpoke:) to weigh in on this and tell me what your thoughts are. Ill enclose i vid that was taken on the weekend an you can hear what I am talking about. it has a bit of an exhaust leak, but I am sure thats not the issue. I have also had the bottom of the collector opened up and the loose pieces taken out so it shouldnt be anything inside the exhaust. Thanks in advance for the help everyone!
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my 86 vr has an occasional clunking in the bottom end when idling or decelerating, now i know the old goldwings got that from primary drive chain slop. do the vr's have the same noise, or could it just be my clutch basket rattling -
For anyone who followed the thread, my 87 was making some crazy exhaust noise that caused me to remove and inspect the collector, the mufflers and the pipes several times. The issue was resolved when I replaced a seemingly healthy collector. I took the problem collector and cut it apart to see what was inside and what caused the problem. Lemme tell ya. A healthy collector would be very tough to get apart without destroying it. Using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I first cut along the perimeter of the bottom side hoping to peel away the skin with no luck. I was trying not to destroy it in the process, so I flipped it over and cut around the perimeter of the top, and although I had to cut through some of the perforated interior screen, I was able to get it apart mostly intact. This was only possible because of what ended up being the problem, which was that the two welds that hold the bottom panel to the one baffle on the inside were broken. This must have been causing the loud sound and the rattle that I had. I ended up re-welding the perforated screen anywhere that it had been pulled out during dis assembly. I then drilled 4 holes in the bottom panel where it contacted the baffle so that I could weld the baffle back on once I put it back together. I then welded the bottom panel that I'd cut back in place, then put the top back on, held it in place with a C clamp and welded it back on. I then flipped it over and welded the baffle to the bottom panel through the holes I drilled earlier. I think the takeaway is that if you are getting these crazy sounds, it'd be worth it to run 3 sheet metal screws through the bottom panel into the baffle, in line with the 2 existing spot welds, one in the middle, and one forward of the front weld and aft of the rear weld. If that cures the problem, you at least know what the problem is, and can opt to leave the screws in and see how long it lasts, or pull the collector, drill a few holes like I did and weld the baffle back to the bottom panel without taking the thing apart. In any case, I've welded mine and would be comfortable putting back on the bike, expecting no further issues. If anyone else has this problem and can get their collector to me, I'd be happy to weld the baffle back in for them. Should be pretty easy now that I know what to do.
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For anyone who followed the thread, my 87 was making some crazy exhaust noise that caused me to remove and inspect the collector, the mufflers and the pipes several times. The issue was resolved when I replaced a seemingly healthy collector. I took the problem collector and cut it apart to see what was inside and what caused the problem. Lemme tell ya. A healthy collector would be very tough to get apart without destroying it. Using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I first cut along the perimeter of the bottom side hoping to peel away the skin with no luck. I was trying not to destroy it in the process, so I flipped it over and cut around the perimeter of the top, and although I had to cut through some of the perforated interior screen, I was able to get it apart mostly intact. This was only possible because of what ended up being the problem, which was that the two welds that hold the bottom panel to the one baffle on the inside were broken. This must have been causing the loud sound and the rattle that I had. I ended up re-welding the perforated screen anywhere that it had been pulled out during dis assembly. I then drilled 4 holes in the bottom panel where it contacted the baffle so that I could weld the baffle back on once I put it back together. I then welded the bottom panel that I'd cut back in place, then put the top back on, held it in place with a C clamp and welded it back on. I then flipped it over and welded the baffle to the bottom panel through the holes I drilled earlier. I think the takeaway is that if you are getting these crazy sounds, it'd be worth it to run 3 sheet metal screws through the bottom panel into the baffle, in line with the 2 existing spot welds, one in the middle, and one forward of the front weld and aft of the rear weld. If that cures the problem, you at least know what the problem is, and can opt to leave the screws in and see how long it lasts, or pull the collector, drill a few holes like I did and weld the baffle back to the bottom panel without taking the thing apart. In any case, I've welded mine and would be comfortable putting back on the bike, expecting no further issues. If anyone else has this problem and can get their collector to me, I'd be happy to weld the baffle back in for them. Should be pretty easy now that I know what to do.
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MKII fork rebuild
viking2seafarer posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hi All, I have got my 1990 XVZ1300 DA MKII front forks apart and I have found the rubber seals on both of the UFO shaped cups at the bottom of the forks have started to pull away. I have attached some photos. I have searched a couple of parts suppliers sites and it appears that these parts are not available any more. Does anyone know where I might find 2 or whether there is some glue I could use to stick the rubber seal back on to the metal cup? Is this seal critical? I have also noted that the anti dives don't seem to move much. Is this normal? I would have thought that the electrical solenoid would have moved the plunger quickly from one side to the other. A couple of other observations that might help those that attempt the rebuild...Pyramid seals are too tall buy OEM or ones that are the correct size and make sure the oil lock has the big diameter to the bottom. Mine was upside down and the narrow end was firmly lodged in the UFO cup rendering the anti dive useless I guess?? -
I like to look over the WS, not thru it. Given my height this means the stock WS is about 1-1/2 too high. bike is 2008 star venture was looking at it and seems like I could cut away the bottom to lower it and much more easily mask my cuts. did some searching but didn't find any relevant threads. Anyone done this or have advice?
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has followed threads & said a prayer or wished me luck.... I got the job!!! I start on the 30th at the latest... Thank each & everyone , your prayers & support made the difference!! From the bottom of my heart I thank each of you. ps No I didn't have to install a cassette player to get it lol :cool10:
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How do you add all the stuff at the bottom of your posts. Weather, where you have ridden or maybe it is where you are wanted in any case could some one tell me please???
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I just updated my ads to show the bottom side of the Stinger Flagpole Mounts. Giving you a reference to how it keeps the flagpole from coming through the bottom, but also allowing the water to drain and so forth. Thanks for all your interest and phone calls and such. I appreciate it. James (Fuzzy) -
OK folks,I heard from Ponch and we talked better than an hour. First let me say he remembers some things and some folks but has a hard time with it. We talked about our last visit with him In route to Cody and while we were there. Bottom line..He doesnt remember much of it at all. The one thing that I feel everyone needs to know, because he told me, is that he appreciates everything ALL of you folks did with the Prayers and thoughts. He can not get on here to Thank all of you because he cannot see that well and has trouble getting the words from his mind to come out on here so it has been frustrating. Whether or not he stays on the site will be totally up to him and his progress..he is having trouble focusing, He said it hurts him to get around motorcycles..I dont know if he misses it or it brings back bad memories. I do know he asked me to relay this message to all of you for what you have done,with that he really teared up and I knew it was heartfelt. I only hope I got this message as he wanted it...If I drifted to far the bottom line from Ponch is "Thank You All ! "
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We've contracted to have new countertops installed in our kitchen. Currently we have a laminate top which is 3/4 inch thick with a 1 1/2 inch facing edge on it. We are switching to granite which is 1 1/4 inches thick. To complicate matters we have an appliance garage in the corner which rests on the countertop with the countertop screwed into it from the bottom. Because of the thickness difference I'm going to need to trim 1/2 an inch from the bottom of the garage. The garage is a full cabinet with sides and back. Does anyone have a clever way to trim that neatly while in place. I'm thinking one of the oscillating multi tools with a 270 degree saw blade might work. Taking the cabinet off the wall is not an option because the cabinets on either side would have to come down first and one of those cabinets is about 10 feet long and fully loaded. The granite company won't cut it for me and if I can't devise a reasonable way to trim the cabinet the deal is off. Any ideas? below are photos of the cabinet. Thanks, Dennis
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Well, It took some doing but I got the new fork seals installed. The job wasnt too terribly bad thanks to many posts on here but a particular thanks to Freebirds post on Fork Seal Replacement. Couldn't have done it without you especially since this was my first venture (no pun intended) in the great wide world of fork seal replacments! lol. Got everything back together and the Class wouldnt work. Thanks again to Freebirds post on Class E4 error repair, I was able to solder all the broken connections and the class system again works as a charm! YAHOO!!!!! One quick question... When I apply the front brake and push down on the handlebars, I seem to be able to bottom out the forks a bit too easily. I'm wondering if the springs inside the forks wear out and would need to be replaced. The fork oil is new, the air pressure is working but like I said, seems to be able to bottom out too easy. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks! Jay -
I saw this when I was checking out the link provided about the 12 cycl motor in the other thread. There are more cool bikes and helmets etc at the bottom of the page too. I kind of liked the Jaguar bike http://www.xoxobook.com/automobile/awesome-motorcycle-concepts/?utm_source=wahoha.com&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=wahoha
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Is there anyone in northern Indiana that rebuilds forks. (83 venture)I hit a man hole and now my right fork is leaking from the bottom. What is a good price for this to be done.
