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Showing results for tags 'bolt'.
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Every now and then someone asks what size a particular bolt is. Just thought it would be helpful to post this from another site. FYI, you can get the part# from most Yamaha dealer websites or here. "How to get sizes of bolts from the part numbers... The Yamaha microfiche shows the bolt size, you just have to know how to read it. Here is how it works... The part number is broken down into 3 parts 99999-06012-00 is an example. The second part, which is 06012 tells you the size. That bolt is 6mm in diameter and 12mm in length. If the second part was 08024 the bolt would be 8mm in diameter and 24mm in length. The first part of the part number tell what type of part it is such as bolt, screw, washer etc. and last 2 digits generally determines the finish such as black, cad, etc"
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I cant seem to find the thread I was looking at here. it was on replacing the two piston front calipers on stock RSV with R1 or R6 four piston calipers. I was at the dealer yesterday and looked at the new and R1 & R6 It looks to me that the calipers on the new models will not bolt up. they did not have any used ones in the store so I cant say about the older model years. however I looks like the FJR calipers will bolt up. If the R1 & R6 calipers will bolt on to the RSV, What year calipers do I need to find to bolt on to a 2007 RSV. There seem to be many to choose from on e-bay. If I up grade I want to be sure to get the ones that will bolt up. And I am aware on the difference in master cylinder piston size between the two bikes (R1 and RSV)
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Anybody know the clutch bolt torque setting for an '87 VR ? -
Can't get the rear drive oil filler plug out on my red bike. It seems stuck fast. I have tried some heat and currently have some kroil soaking on top of it. Its dark now, so I'll leave it soak till tomorrow. I am afraid of deforming the hex of the plug if I put on too much force. I havent tried the drain plug bolt yet but everything is very dry on this bike so I'll bet it will be a problem too. Suggestions? Thanks, Brian H. -
This is my first brake rebuild on this, my 87 model. I was getting leakage on the front wheel. and resulting loss of brake "pedal". When I took the caliper off the bike, I couldn't tell which of the four pistons was leaking. Now I realize I only have one set- not two, which is what i need to do both sides. I'm pretty sure the one closest to the banjo bolt was the culprit- I'll do the "outer" side. I guess it could have been the banjo bolt. I was going to pull the pistons. But how do you get them out without damaging them? Do I need a special tool? I thought this would be EZ. With a 14mm bolt stuck in the banjo bolt hole (inlet) I compressed one side with pliers but boy do they seem tight! Any advice?
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This is in response to snaggletooth's post earlier about his side stand bolt breaking. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=48307 I started a new thread so people might look at it that had already viewed his. As was noted in previous post, the undercut on the shoulder bolt is deep. The threads are 10 mm on the shoulder bolt and the undercut is about 7.90 mm. This is about 20% of the bolts threaded diameter that has been removed. The shoulder portion of the bolt is 12 mm. I used a grade 10.9, 12 mm x 1.75 mm x 60 mm long partially threaded hex head bolt, a grade 10.9 hex head nut and a standard grade jam nut (hardware didn't have grade 10.9 jam nuts).Grade 10.9 metric is very close to an imperial grade 8. The hardware store had 12 mm x 1.50 mm bolts, but the unthreaded portion was a smaller diameter than the 1.75 mm. I would have rather had the finer threads. I used the 60 mm length because the unthreaded portion of this bolt was just the length that was required to pass through the front and back wings of the side stand. I did not want threads in that area, due to the threads would quickly wear down in diameter and increase play in side stand. The shoulder on the hex bolt measured 11.50 mm, just slightly smaller than the existing shoulder bolt by about .005". I cut the shoulder bolt to roughly 45 mm (1.75") long. Then drilled out the threaded portion of the kickstand with a 15/32" drill. This gave a very snug fit for the unthreaded portion of the new bolt. The drilled hole in the back wing is still a smaller diameter than the existing hole in the front wing of the side stand, so I do not feel it weakened the overall assembly. Replaced the side stand. I used blue loctite on threads. Tightened hardened hex bolt up until there was minimal play in the end of side stand, then ran jam nut up against hex nut. Cost was under $5.00 and took less than an hour including parts run. Comparison of new bolt & existing shoulder bolt. Back wing of side stand prior to drilling Stack-up of new fasteners after cutting hex bolt to length. Picture of side stand prior to spring being reinstalled. Gary
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Hey guys finally got all my speakers installed abd they sound great! I did however manage to lose two of those bolts that hold the speaker in place. They're kind of a special bolt and I'm wondering if anyone knows where to find these? Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance
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The VMX rear gear unit is almost a direct swap on a 2nd gen. It only needs the blank boss milled out for the speedometer sensor. Here I am doing one for Condor. 1) Locate and bore out the main hole. 2) Machine the boss off flat. 3) Locate and drill the mounting bolt hole. 4) Tap in the threads. 5) Chamfer the holes, pull the shock bolt, take it apart and flush the shavings out real well, reassemble and it's ready to mount. -
My RSV has a coolant leak, under the left aft cyclinder cover. It is not coming from the cover bolt holes, but what I think is the cylinder drain plug (looks like #1 in the center picture on page 3-35 of the service manual). This 'plug' has no internal or external wrenching feature, but the center is threaded. Can I tighten this plug to try to stop the leak? How do I tighten it? Can I just thread another bolt in there to tighten it? Or will tightening the cylinder covers push it in to hold it? The bottom cylinder cover bolt was loose when I disassembled it.
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I was installing the clutch slave cylinder on the 83, and when I went to snug up the bottom bolt, the threads in the block stripped. Any ideas how to fix them good enough to tighten up the bolt? I checked and it looks like there is about 1/8" or a bit more of good, unused threads left down in the blind hole, so I may try and see if I can find a bolt that is a little longer and see if there is enough left to hold. I don't think a heli-coil would be very easy to install. The female threads in the block are about 6" inside of the bulge in the stator cover, so I'd have to find a way to extend the installation tool. Also, the threads don't start at the surface, they are recessed about 1/8" so that the bolt will act as a pilot bushing also. The next best alternative that I see is to tap it for a larger bolt, probably a 1/4"-28 and open up the hole in the cylinder a bit. The Yammie bolt is 6mm or .236". I'll still have to come up with a way to extend the tap though. I haven't looked on the Grainger site yet, but do they make a tap extension so you can reach into recesses? Anybody ever have any luck with Devcon or something like this? Barb and I are leaving on the 89 Thursday, so it'll be sitting for a bit. Frank D.
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I know we talked about this a couple of years ago and I checked mine then and put in a new shoulder bolt......and checked it again a year ago. But did I check it this year? Well......er ......no. So today I'm leaving work and I'm out in front of the store. I had to run back in for a second so I pull the bike up by the front walk and threw down the kick stand, leaned the bike over on it and was lifting my leg up over the back rest and I felt her start to drop. Like a rock. I've got the right leg still in the air and the left foot is sliding away. I'm a big fella at 6' 3" and 285 but the bike had me at the disadvantage at that point. I got my right leg back down on the far side and got my left foot to stop skidding and got the bike stopped from going over any farther. So there I am.....holding up the great beast at a rather difficult angle......can't tell if I'm at a stopping point or if I let her back to the left if she will keep going. Hummmm....why am I sweating like this? So there was a fella that saw me wrestling the bike and he came running over. Nice guy, and thank you sir for the offer, but he's all of 5'5" and a 150 lbs if that. He asked what he could do to help. Me: "Look for the pink thing" Him: "What's it look like?" Me: "Pink....maybe a little purple by now" Him: "What's it shaped like?" Me: "Kinda round.......a little fussy looking" Him: "Where would it be?" Me: "Probably by my left boot" Him: "Did it fall off the bike?" Me: "No sir.....it may have fallen off me!" Then it hit him......and at that point he was worthless. Couldn't quit laughing. But he was able to give me a boost back up and got her balanced again and able to get off and get her on the center stand. Yep....broken shoulder bolt and the flange was spread open. I was prepared. I had an extra kick stand at home. A spare part I never thought I would need. Yeah...right. Now I don't know how many of you guys have tried to get off one of these things without using the kick stand and have a back rest to boot.....but it's a bit probmatic. So take a minute to take a look at that bolt and save yourself the conversation I had to have with a complete stranger. I'm betting he will remember the big guy in the leather jacket and dark shapes that sounded like a choir boy. Check all your nuts while you're at it. I've got mine on ice now. If I make it back to tenor by tonigiht I'll be happy. -
I again want to remind everyone to check the play in their side stand. When changing the oil on Rocket's 86, out of habit, I checked the side stand and there was at least an inch play at the end of the side stand tip. When I removed the side stand, the forks were splayed open and the bolt was bent. I was able to use my hydraulic press to bend the fork tips back parallel and also straighten the bolt. With the side stand now fitting the frame mount just snug enough to not bind, I pulled the side stand off and checked the seating of the bolt. The shoulder of the bolt seated with a gap under the head of the bolt so I used a thin washer so the bolt seated at the shoulder and the nut at the same time. I cleaned everything and reassembled and tightened the bolt to the point it was almost binding and then tightened the nut. I was able to get it to the point there may have been an eighth inch play at the tip of the side stand without any binding. When we did his 83, there was about the same amount of play, but the bolt was not bent, but there was a slight step worn on the side of the bolt and the forks on the side stand were splayed about the same. Again did the washer trick and got about an eighth inch play when tightened back in place. I am really glad I was able to fix this as his bike has a lot of lean on the side stand and with the trailer hooked up, it would have been a disaster to encounter a broken side stand/bolt. Rocket should pick up another side stand bolt, but for now I believe he is good to go as long at he monitors the looseness. Again, for those of you that have never had you side stand fail, and it will if you let it get loose enough, you can hardly imagine how big of a problem it can be. RandyA
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Just My luck....going to be near 75 tomorrow, was going to ride the bike to church in the A.M. and then go for a ride. Went in the shop to check on the bike and found a coolant leak around the left rear cylinder cover. Pulled the side cover and discovered, it appears that the plug is leaking. There are threads in the plug but no bolt. Is there supposed to be a bolt that holds the plug in ? If so what size? Thanks, Mel
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My '02 RSV seems to have developed a slight fuel leak. The leak is a slight drip coming from the end of an allen bolt. You can see the drop in the attached pic. What is the assembly that the bolt holds? Anybody have any idea of how to fix this? That assembly looks like a pain to remove! Any help is much appreciated.
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Stator went out on my awhile back so I have to replace it, got down to the bolt that holds the retaining cover for the stator wire going out of the case and snap off came the head. So I think ok I will drill it and use and easy out nope broke the stupid easy out in the middle of the bolt. I had thought about drilling to the side of it, tapping it and putting in a smaller bolt but I guess I really should just get a new side cover. Any thoughts , ideas or just plain jabs for my stupidity are Welcome. I am hoping I can find someone parting out an engine or has replaced one because it was scratched for cheap. Looks like a new one cost around 300 bucks. -
How do I remove the chrome ring around the headlight? The bike (RS Venture) has the chrome visors on all the lights and I bumped the visor on the headlight and it came off. I need to get the chrome ring off to put the visor back on. I removed the bolt at the bottom, but something is still holding on. I need your help. Thank you! Owen.
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Thanks to Vincent, AKA: Playboy, for this EXCELLENT tech article. Packing Swing Arm Bearings 1. Remove the rear wheel as you normally do and your halfway there. 2. Drain the final drive and remove the speed sensor wire and four acorn nuts and simply pull out final drive and drive shaft. This is a great time to catch up on a lot of those little maintenance items. . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga1.jpg 3. Un clip the speed sensor wire from the swing arm and remove the clamps from the brake line. So you don’t have to hunt for them later re insert the clamp bolts back into the swing arm finger tight. Just allow the caliper to hang over out of the way. Be sure and check pads for even wear. 4. Now its time to remove the shock and the dog bones or leveling links. Before removing top bolt from shock remove seat and right side cover. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga2.jpg 5. Un clip the shocks vent line located beside battery on right side. Then remove round black plastic cover where you add air to rear shock ( it just pops out ) http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga3.jpg 6. Remove the nut from the valve stem. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga4.jpg 7. Now just work the vent line and air line down from top and pull out top bolt from shock. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga5.jpg 8. To remove Y pipes you will need to remove left side cover also. Under the lower section of the Y pipe loosen clamp closest to the rear. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga6.jpg For the section attached to rear cylinders you can loosen that clamp as well or remove the two nuts on the flange going into head . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga7.jpg Remove the bolt where the mufflers slide on . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga8.jpg 9. Now you can just work the Y pipe out and to the rear. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga9.jpg 10. Next pop off the chrome covers on both sides. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga10.jpg you will notice a bolt head on the left side. 30mm I think remove this bolt from the left side . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga11.jpg This bolt requires 72 ft/lbs on re installation. 11. On the right side you will notice a Allen head bolt with locknut loosen or remove nut then remove bolt . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga12.jpg This bolt only needs 5.1 FT/lbs of torque. Locknut requires the 72 ft/lbs. Don’t worry about the swing arm falling out when you remove the bolts. Now you can work the swing arm out from under the bike with just a wiggle. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga13.jpg The rubber boot protecting U joint should come out with it . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga14.jpg 12. Place the swing arm in a vice with drive shaft side down. Pull of the rubber boot so you can see the back side of the right side bearing. Insert the left side bolt from the inside. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga15.jpg Using a wooden dowel rod tap out the bearing and seal. This will allow minimum distortion to seal so you can re use it . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga16.jpg 13. I used a seal puller on the right side seal because I had one but working carefully with a screw driver or very small pry-bar you can get that seal out with out much distortion. 14. Inspect bearings and races for pitting or wear marks I doubt you will find any unless this has been neglected for a very long time. My bike was @ 30k and had some grease still on bearings Probably just what the factory put on them. 15. Re-pack your bearings with a good quality grease. Insert the right bearing and reinstall seal flip over the swing arm and repeat for left side. 16. Reattach the rubber boot and work the swing arm back up into the bike. Don’t worry about the trying to get the boot back on just yet. Just get it in there where the swing arm bolts will be close to lining up. Lift the swing arm up and slide something under it to support it. . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga17.jpg 17. Reinstall both bolts just enough to get the threads started good and then work the rubber boot back over the U joint. Long handle needle nose pliers and a monkey hook are real handy here. 18. Tighten both swing arm bolts. The left bolt must be tightened first. Remember right side is only 5.1 ft/lbs and locknut is 72 ft/lbs. 19. Everything else goes back in reverse order. Don’t forget to lube those pivot points on the shock while your there. Something that works well for me when it comes to reinstalling final drive and drive shaft is that I pull the driveshaft off the final drive, put the bike in gear, I then insert a large Allen wrench into the hole of the driveshaft where the spring fits for a handle and install the driveshaft into the U joint. You can turn the gear on the end of shaft to determine that your in the U joint and not beside it. Hope this helps because it is not the dreaded job I thought it would be. Could have done it in a afternoon but it was a 100 degree day and trying to take pics on all the steps took some time. Vincent aka PLAYBOY
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So I am pulling the rear wheel for a tire change and once the wheel is off I am checking the swing arm, shock etc. WHen I pick up on the swing arm, there is up and down slop where the bolt goes through the top shock mount. Bolt is tight, its like the mount hole in the shock is too large. I would figure this to be a near zero tolerance fit where the bolt passes through. Sufficient slop that you can make impact noise with it if you push up and down slightly on the swing arm. Amounts to about 1/8 inch movement up and down at the axle just from the slop in the bolt. Anyone else seen this before? OEM shock 22,000 miles. There is also oil on the bottom of the bellows. Still holds air and no excessive bouncing I can tell, but likely not long for this world. Thanks, RSTDdog
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I have a 2006 RSTD. I am installing the original mufflers on the bike. Do I have to remove the saddlebags to get to the back bolt?
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So Im replacing my swing arm shock mount on my 1990 I couldnt find a 90+ but I bought one from an 86 . I know there are differences with no zerk fittings on 86 but the shock mount is definitely different. The 90 has two set of bolt near the shock mount the 86 has one. Does anyone know if this will work? -
I have look the service manual and can't find anything on this.. The chrome heat shields that are on the rear header pipes how do you remove that shield I have taken out the bolt and still it will not move.. Does the shield even come off, I'm wondering now?
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The hollow bolt in my passing light is broken. It's the one that screws into the turn signal from the passing light bucket. Had to do a roadside temporary repair while on a trip. Have searched, but have not found a source for these. Dealer is no help. Does anyone know a source or part number?
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I replaced a faulty ignition switch today, and while there is plenty of info on the forum on how to do it, I wanted to share how I dealt with the tamper proof bolts that hold the switch to the frame. There is no "head" to get a tool onto these bolts, so many guys use a dremel or die grinder to cut slots into the head so they can remove the bolts with a screw driver. Another option is to just drill out the bolt and then remove the remaining bolt after the switch has been removed. I decided that since I didn't need to salvage the switch or the housing (it was already broke) it wouldn't hurt to break it more. I used a small sharp chisel to break part of the switch base so I could get at the recessed bolt heads. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange014.jpg Then I used the chisel to tap into the side of the bolthead, making a gouge for the tool to bite into and loosening the bolt. It was just a matter of a couple of revolutions and I could turn it the rest of the way by hand. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange015.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange018.jpg I replaced the factory bolts with a couple of metric allen head bolts from my collection and I'm good to go. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange021.jpg Total time, start to finish to replace the switch.....1 hour, give or take.
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Passing Light hollow bolt
iquester posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Yep. First drop of my 97 Royal Star. Cager pulled out in front of me at a 4-way stop just as I started. I stopped (thank God) in time but dumped the Bike over as I avoided her. No real damage except to my pride and the right side passing lamp and turn signal. Have the replacement lamp and signal located but I'll be @#$% if I can find anyone who sells the (10mm I think) hollow bolt that connects the passing lamp to the turn signal mount. Anyone have any ideas? Help! Michael Gardner 97 Royal Star -
Several weeks ago I finally got around to removing the hitch off of my 87 and putting it on my 89 so I could use it for a PGR flag mount. The removal and reinstall was pretty cut and dry taking only a couple of hours, including a short trip to Ace for some different bolts. The next "simple" "easy" "no problem" step was to take the ball off and bolt on my home made flag holder. That took probably 6 hours over 2 days. The bolt would not budge. I'm guessing the ball was installed back around 87 and had been in the Oregon area until 2 years ago. Even soaking with WD40 over night didn't help. I went from wrench to breaker bar to pipe wrench and using my Tahoe hitch to Sawzall to grinder. Ended up grinding the thing in two. What a job !
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