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Showing results for tags 'bleeding'.
Found 19 results
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Well I finally got some good new from the docs. I have been laid up for 12 weeks since falling off a ladder and breaking my hip. I had a fractured hip, sprained ankle and bruised shin. And possible internal bleeding. They bolted the hip back together and told me to stay off it. No weight what so ever. Originally this was to be for four to six weeks. Then it appeared the bolts had backed out a little so no weight indefinitely. Today twelve weeks in the doctor said I can finally start to put some weight on my right side. Yahoo. I am wobbly but at least I can start relearning to walk. And hopefully I can be riding by summer. The other part is shortly after the fall I began to cough up blood. The bleeding stopped but the doctors were still worried. So I also underwent another upper GI today. The exam came back normal no visible internal damage. So I am quite excited about todays outcomes. Mike
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I haven't been able to find a write up on here on the r/r of the slave cylinder. I will document my job with pix & post it here for others that follow. Looking at the service manual, I have been able to surmise the following must be done. But I have some preliminary questions I will post in red: 1. Remove bolts on the left footrest-shifter. 2. Remove the 6 allen bolts on the middle-gear cover.. Do I have to drain the oil? 3. Remove the bolt that attaches the clutch line to the slave What size are they? 4 Remove the two allen bolts holding the cylinder to the engine. What size are they? Can I use Allen Wrenchs or will I need to buy metric hex sockets? Also is there a preferred bleeding technique or is it a pain like bleeding my Honda's front caliper? (not enough pressure) Basically That is all the questions I have to prepare for this. I looks simple enough. Andy -
My effort to change the clutch fluid has come to a stop. I can not get fluid down the system from the top, nor will it take fluid from the bleed cock upwards, or 'reverse' bleeding. I feel that there is some sort of blockage but I am not a good enough of a mechanic to go from here.....Any thoughts????
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Hi All, My buddy has an 84 venture, he traded for it and it had squeaky rear brake so he put new pads in. He tried and tried to get the brakes bled. I personally read every first gen brake bleeding problem here and on the other list trying to help him. It turns out, that he thinks the problem was, , GET THIS, the brake pedal had little to no free play in it, the footpegs were put on the most forward location, once he moved the pegs and brake pedal back one notch, the brakes bled just fine thank you. He finally had noticed that the brake adjuster was at the very end of its travel so , having everything else fail, he moved it back and tried bleeding it. He is theorizing ,sp, that the master cyl was pulled past its proper travel, therefore stopping any actual brake bleeding. This is the first time that I have heard of this on this and the other list, so I will be posting this as a theoretical possibility so others may know what happened. I would appreciate comments from anyone else who has had this problem as well as anyone who knows for absolute sure that this ,,theoretical assumption is a possibility. -
I was bleeding the brakes the other day and ran into a problem with the rear fluid reservoir. The problem is I could not find an easy way to top it off. I tried using a funnel, but the "spout" was too large to fit. My GF came up with an idea: Use a stiff plastic tube and a funnel. Check out the attached pics.... The tube is the perfect size to thread into the plug hole, it is stiff enough to hold the funnel upright, and transparent enough to show fluid level. Who says women aren't smart? Y'All ride safe...
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I have a 2006 RSV. Does the brake pedal work the front left caliper? What is the best order for bleeding brake line?
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I replaced front disc pads - and naturally, front brake lever has no resistance whatsoever now. I'm reading out here about "reverse bleeding" using a syringe or something - I take I'm supposed to remove bleeder valve, and squirt dot 3 into the opening with a syringe or something similar. Does that sound right? I'm assuming dot 3 will eventually overflow out...then what? Put bleeder valve back on and see if pressure builds up? Or try bleeding it normally? Reservoir on handlebar is full. I wanted to change out rear pads, but my saddlebag on that side does not want to come off and I don't want to force it. It's almost as if the key lock isnt working right. Doesnt seem to be enough room to pull that caliper off with saddle bag on. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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I am trying to bleed the brakes and they are spongy. I understand the rear brake is linked with the front left. I have speed bleeders. If someone can give me specific instructions for bleeding the front hand brake and the integrated brakes I would sure appreciate it. I am not being successful. Thanks for the time.
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I've had an intermittent brake fluid warning light since I bought this bike(84' Royal) last summer. Pads are new all around and the both reservoirs were/are full. Brakes seemed to operate fine. I decided to bleed the brakes thinking that might help. I'm new to bleeding the brakes on motorcycles, but I have done this on cars as a kid. I bought a mightyvac to help with the process. Not sure if I'm bleeding the system right due to my inexperience. I bled from the metering valve, then the left front, then the rear. Then I bled the right front. The mightyvac seemed to always pull air bubbles... I started using the mightyvac just get everything primed and then finished off by pumping the pedal, holding it down, opening the bleeder valve and re-tightening. I continued this sequence as often as needed to make sure there were no air bubbles. Brakes seem to work fine, but the warning light is now on all the time... I then removed the rear reservoir lid(this sucks) to check that the rubber boot and float were OK. There was some black sludge in the bottom of the reservoir so I drained and cleaned the inside. I pumped lots of Dot 3 to flush everything. Put it all back together and the warning light is still on. I also noticed that my pads seem to touch the rotors even when I am not applying the pedal. The wheels do turn, but with some resistance. Is this normal? I'm open for some suggestions. Thanks. Vince -
After bleeding the brakes on my 83 Venture took bike out of garage and let it run about 10 minutes to get warmed up. Test rode about 3 miles (was raining) and pulled back in. Brakes worked great but felt pedal getting tighter and tighter. After getting back could hardly push bike forward. Put on center stand and could hardly turn front and rear wheels by hand. Left bike alone about an hours and brakes released somewhat. I had read to leave brake reservoir low for heat expansion. I only left it about a 1/2 inch low. Could it of heated the brake fluid that much in such a short amount of time? And do I need to take more fluid out of reservoir? Or do I have to look for another problem? Thank You....Karl
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I have tried taking the front calipers apart and cleaning them. Now what is the secret to bleeding them? Thanks, Kevin -
After being shown the proper way, and the proper point, of bleeding the brakes at Freebird's Maintenance Day, I finally got over to Harbor Freight and picked up a hand operated vacuum bleeder and a large can of Dot 3 & 4 brake fluid. The front brake was a breeze and was finished in about 20 minutes. The rear on the other hand was a bit more interesting. I looked at several (and I do mean several) stores trying to find a funnel with a flexible tube that would fit in the fill hole of the resevoir. NO LUCK! I finally picked up a turkey baster and pulled the rubber bulb off the end and the tip fit in the hole perfectly. A little bending of small stuff (tying string for you land lubbers) and the turkey baster remained in place as well as giving me a sight glass. The rest of the bleeding went fairly well and I now have clean fluid in my brake lines. The next bleeding will be of the clutch and shouldn't be too much problem. Most people may think this kind of silly, but I remind you all that I'm about as mechanically inclined as a left handed chimp without his trainer, this is why I teach electronics. I forget the gentleman's name that helped me out at Freebird's, but THANK YOU very much. I learned something!
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Yesterday, I took the rear calipers apart to clean the pistons. I am having a difficult time bleeding the brakes. Any body have tips or tricks ? -
What is the best way to bleed the rear brake system? I have a shop manual but just thought someone here had come up with a good bleeding sequence. Is there any way to turn this into a solo operation as I am home alone for the week end. I see the rear master cylinder is not very easy to get into. Any tips appreciated! regards Dave
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While the snow piles up in the driveway, all I can do is think about the maintenance I will do on the 84 Venture in about a month when I can get near the shed again. Last year, among other things I bled all the brakes and some foul looking fluid came out. It looked like on the front forks there was a bleeder for the brakes and a secondary bleeder for the shocks. I have not noticed any fluid on the top part of the shocks so I am not thinking that the seals are leaking. Is it possible for fluid to leak from the front brakes into the shock. Are these two systems linked or how do they work? I was also going to bleed the clutch this year. Is the slave cylinder hard to get at for bleeding? Hope the people in the south are enjoying riding. It will be at least a month before we can ride in southern Ontario.
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with my busy life now days i just got around to doing my clutch, now im having problems bleeding the clutch whats the fail safe way to do that
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After having gone thru all of the hair pulling and discussion of this particular parts ancestery I finally got the the brake bled!! The problem started out as a simple pad replacement which proceeded to go south at a very rapid rate and ended up in my having to take the caliper off and to the mech to replace the seals which decided that this was the time to give up the ghost. After getting the caliper back and the new pads installed and the caliper mounted, I started to bleed the brake, (right front). Now this is where the hair pulling and dicussing the caliper's ancestery began. I tried the regular way of pumping the brake handle with the bleeder screw closed with no success. Aha, I thought. I will go to the Venture site and do a search to find out how to bleed the brakes. I found and tried the reverse bleeding method, again with no success. Now this was beginning to take on all of the aspects of a 3 ring circus! So, I thought why not try the reverse bleeding method again but with a minor modification. Instead of filling a bottle and holding it up like a IV bottle, why not use a 60cc syringe which I had in my tool box. Btw, my daughter is a nurse at a local hospital and she got me a couple of these. If you are a nurse or know one, get a couple of these and keep in your tool box, they are handy as a third hand. But I digress. It worked GREAT!!!! This way you can use pressure to reverse bleed and it only took about 20 minutes to fully complete the job and have a good hard brake handle. Don H.
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I have read numerous posts on bleeding the clutch but none tell exactly how. My question is this: Do you just bleed it like a brake line? I saw a thing on reverse bleeding but I do not have a pump to do that with. I there another way to reverse bleed. I have bled the brakes on many different cars, bikes and even a tractor or two but never have done a clutch. Any help would be...um...helpful. Thanks
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OK I've got calipers and parts all over the place now! Have one set restored with existing parts and another with rebuilds. I've got two questions: 1) The seal rebuild kit came with a packet of pink goo. Is that lubricant or seal setter or what? 2) The set I've put back on is a rear & front linked combo on one of the '83s. I've bled the b'jeepers out of them (2 full bottles) - everything coming out is clean fluid on both sides, but they're still mushy as all get out! There's got to be some air stuck in there. How do I get it out??? I'm using a mighty vac and the bleeding is working OK. I saw another thread on the subject but I didn't see a clear solution. Any thoughts?? Thanks
