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Showing results for tags 'bearings'.
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Ok, I pulled the rear a while wheel a while back and cleaned up the hub splines and when I was working on that I notice a tick in the rear bearings. I ordered the bearings, seals and a new o-ring and now I'm into the replacement. A local shop offered to install the bearings for $5.00 per side and I figured fair enough. Save me some time. When I took the wheel in today they took one look at it and said they could not do that type of set up. At least they were honest about it. So here I am looking at my rear wheel. The manual is vauge in the statement to push the spacer aside and drive out the bearing. First, the spacer don't move far enough to the side to get a good bite on the bearing from either side. I'm using a 5/16 brass flat nose punch to do this. I was able to pull out the larger seal and retainer ring on that side but it looks like I need to drive out the larger bearing from the smaller side to remove the smaller seal from that side. Which side do I start from and how is the smaller seal removed? Any suggestions will help. Mike -
steering head bearings
Locomotive posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I finally had time to do a few things to my bike and one of them was to tighten up the head bearings. Now the wobble is gone but the bike seems to wander a bit on the road. Im thinking that i tightened the nut a little too mutch. What is the best way to know just how tight the steering bearings have to be ? I had my bike on the centerstand when i adjusted mine but i gave the nut a little extra snugness and that might be where the problem lies. Any ideas ? -
Since Outcast was stuck in SC with a front wheel bearing gone bad, it got me to thinking. Wouldn't it be a good thing if we could do some research and see if parts could be found that would work in a pinch such as this. I'm thinking most bearings could be cross matched with something from the automotive line or even heavy equipment house. Is there some way to use the oem part number and find out what the actual dimensions are for a given bearing, such as the front wheel bearing without having to dismantle someone's bike to measure the bearing? I think this could turn out to be a good thing if someone is broke down far from home on the weekend. As was stated in the other post, most metric dealers are closed on Sunday and Monday. What if a bearing could be had from, God forbid I would even suggest this, a Harley dealer! A lot of them are open on Sundays.
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Once again I find the manual lacking enough info for a lowly so-so mechanic such as myself to get a job done without help. Is there anywhere on this forum that has a good description and hopefully pictures that can take me through the dismantaling process of the front cowling so I can get to the steering head bearings which I need to change. The quick fix of tightening the steering nut was not good enough to remove looseness. Bought roller bearings from Skydoc for the job. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hey guys, What's the best way to jack up a First Gen? Help me out. I want to check the front wheel bearings, steering bearings, rear bearings, swing arm and shock. You know... all that stuff that could cause major mishaps at interstate speeds. So I need to get the front and back off of the ground. Is there an easy way to get it up on to the center stand? That will help for some stuff. I can't seem to do it even with help. I have a Harbor Freight M/C Jack, willingness and ingenuity!
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I'm a little surprised as the bike has been so solid but what sounds like a serious noise has begun on my 86. While at cruising speed, if I lean in to a turn (either direction) I hear a howling noise that stops as soon as I straighten up. (rear wheel bearings ???) More recently I noticed that when coasting to a stop with the clutch lever in, I hear what actually sounds like gear mesh noise. I have also noticed that as the bike slows down, I feel and hear a vibration at around 15 mph. I am thinking rear wheel bearings or u joints?
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has anybody replaced the stem (top and bottom) bearings on an 1800 GoldWing. I understand that is being done to Trikes because the factory bearings don't hold up to the triple tree revision. Is this a job for a real mechanic ? me being just a play mechanic
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Im rebuilding the rear wheel with all new bearings, spacers and seals. I have a question on the proper positioning of a spacer flange on the disc brake side of the wheel so maybe someone here who has had to rebuild their wheel and/or someone who has removed the bearings on that side can answer this. Or maybe someone who has a rear wheel laying around with the bearings removed can chime in too. The spacer flange is a stamped steel spacer with one side flat and one side hollow. It goes into the wheel just behind the wheel bearing and seats into a cut-out in the axle opening, followed by the bearing. What I need to know is what side of the flange faces the bearing. The flat part, which im leaning to or the hollow portion? The parts fiche offers no help. Thanks
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My front wheel bearings disintegrated and wormed out my front wheel. I bought new bearings but when I removed the old bearings the wheel and sleeve were worn and wormed out. So I guess I will have to replace the wheel. Anyone have any ideas besides the dealer. I do not know what they cost but I do know there are cheper places than the dealer. Thanks Quicksilver Thanks guys for all the info and quick to. this is the best source of info on the net. Thank all of you again Quicksilver
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I post this for those that may be interested and for those who offered thoughts about a cure. I had posted here a while back about noise in the final of my 650. After 2 months and a ring gear bearing, wheel bearings, new drive shaft, and coupling gear, the noise was still there. So today, after removing the drive shaft, I took out the retaining ring that holds the input shaft and bearings in the final housing. Upon doing so, the cage of the roller bearing fell out. The 7 rivets that hold the cage together, inside the race, thus keeping all the bearing balls seperated and spaced, were broke and the halves of the cage have significant grinding wear. Thankfully there was no damage to the input shaft and the local dealer was able to get the bearing and sleeve pressed off the shaft. I'll have it back next week with new bearings and hopefully be done with this. Just thought I would share my story and findings.
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Morning all, long time....... My 01 RSV, 79K, I feel that I have a "Notch" on the front end. if I jack the bike up as if to tighten the steering bearings, it will always hit almost what you could call a "flat" spot. I can feel it when I am riding, it seems notched? I was told a bit back when we were in texas with Eck and Sleeperhawk that I didn't have much left in an adjustment? bottom line, I get a front end shimmy, not good, so I am left to replace the bearings. Stealer wants just over 700.00 for the job, hate to part with that type o dough. From what I've read, it can be done at home, just a bear to pull the races. I do not have a torch, but have a dremel tool. I didn't see any thread on the procedures of r&r'ing the bearings? Anyone close to W. Ga. done this before for some moral support? Thanks, Pick
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i am getting ready to change front tire and tighten up head bearings but not really sure how to jack it up safely .please help:confused07:
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Ok, Getting ready to put a bunch of miles on the Tag-Along in the next few weeks, so time to get rid of the crappy Chinese bearings. They have probably 6000-7000 miles on them. I took the wheels off and removed the old bearings, only to find they look almost perfect. As mentioned in a post a good while back, the seals were still leaking, probably due to the lack of polishing of the sealing surface, on the axle, during manufacturing. This seems to not be a problem as both wheels were still completely full of grease. The Honda Moly was a lot more "liquid" than when I put it in there, but was evidently doing its' job, very well. Oh well, I have new Timken bearings, along with new seals, on order from Motion Industries, here in Jackson, MS. All should be here in the morning. Fore those interested; The bearing part # is 30205M (It is a cup and cone set) $18.15/Set The seal part # is 30 X 52 X 10 A-NBR $ 2.18/Each Gonna pick them up in the morning and go two blocks down and get a couple of pounds of dry ice. :cool10: Oh and go by and pick up a new tube of Honda Moly from BigBoyinMS
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Replacing Front Wheel Bearings
ragtop69gs posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Putting a new 150/80-16 Venom on the front and I feel a tight spot on both wheel bearings. I am going to replace them. I have 2 questions. A search here did not help me much. (1) How do you get the bearings out ? With the inner spacer I see no way to use a standard bearing puller or a drift punch to knock em out, no lip to drive them out. (2) Sourcing the bearing and seal? Yamaha part or from a bearing supply ? Aftermarket part numbers? -
Good morning all. My first post. I have purchased a 1986 venture royale that was sitting for years. It came complete with mouse nest and chewed wires. It had so much dirt and grime on it that I decided to strip it to the bones. I have every piece of plastic, faring, luggage, crome and electronic off it now and it is all cleaned up quite nicely. I am about to take care of the known issues which are spongy front brakes, almost no clutch pressure and a rear brake rotor replacement. I think I should check the valve clearances and will replace all the oils, spark plugs coolant ect. Is there any other specific things I should do or check while it is stripped. Head bearings, swing arm bearings feel good. Front fork seals are not leaking. Thanks in advance T
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Ok, the question is, will the heads from an '83 1200cc motor fit on top of an '88 1300cc motor? IIRC, Dingy put 1200cc V-Max heads on a 1300 motor. This is the issue I am having. I have a incomplete donor motor from an '88 Venture that I picked up for my '83 Venture that was having 2nd gear issues. When I cracked open my '83 case, I found out that the two center crankshaft bearings were damaged, with the journal of one having scrapes deep enough to catch a fingernail. The other exposed bearings looked dull. Also, the PO had opened the motor before, sealing it back up with red gasket sealer, getting it everywhere, even in oil passages. So I am a little concerned about the block. The '88 motor had almost all of it's covers removed, and the intake/exhaust ports left open. Some of the valves are stuck open. I pulled the heads and the cylinders look fine, still has the cross-hatch marks on the walls with no up/down scratches. The exposed bearings look nice & shiny, and I see no damage on the crankshaft. My '83 heads are still fine as the bike was still running before I tore it down. So what I want to do is put the good gears back into the '88, button it back up, and swap the heads from my '83 onto the '88, then install the '88 back into my bike. I'm looking at head gaskets for an '88 and the valve cove gaskets from a 2nd gen. I know I'm asking a question that I kinda have an answer for (and most likely the direction I will take), but I'm just seeing if there is any issues or problems that I should be aware of or look out for. I was hoping for a simple transmission swap but it's turning into a big headache. -Andrew -
O.K. folks, I am not a Venture owner, my son is. He bought an 84 XVZ 12 DL. Has complained about high speed stability from day one. I just returned from a short ride (about 75 mph) on I 75. The bike feels as though it's riding on rain grooves or a draw bridge grate at these speeds. I wouldn't take a long distance trip on this motorcycle if you paid me. We need some help,,, Please! A bit of background. Both my son and I are long time performance auto mechanics. Rob just mounted a set of Shenco Tour Master tires. Re- packed/ replaced wheel bearings, replaced brake rotors, removed and greased final drive splines, checked and adjusted steering head bearings ( set with a very slight drag with wheel off ground). We've checked swing arm bearings (no play) and I went over the rear frame with a flashlight looking for cracks (yes, I had my glasses on). The only way he'll ride is with the rear tire at 45 lbs. the front at 37. Though keeping the tires over inflated (my opinion) helps, this thing is almost scary. My Eleven is more stable over bridge grates. What do we do/ look for? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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Well I got a question, Im into Phase 2 of the Firefighter RSV and part of it is polishing the outside ring of the wheels and powdercoating the spokes the color of the bike. I think I know my answer but do I need to remove and replace the wheel bearings or can it be done without removing them. Dont really want to mess with them but If I need too I will. Scotty
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I have been hearing a clunk when going over large bumps.I thought the fender or something like that was loose but a preliminary check turns up nothing loose. It really concerned me sunday after rolling through a rough part of the road.I thought something was gonna fall off. Another noise was like heard when leaning into a curve.Can't explain it but the sound was in conjunction with a feel.Are my wheel bearings dry,damaged, or could it be my neck bearings. I'm sorry this is so cryptic but I can't video tape the sound because the wind noise is too great.I am just hoping some one has an ideawhat neck and wheel bearings symptoms might be. Maybe some inspections I can preform.I csnt figure oit how to change the fork oil without removing the forks.
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OK...I finally got a few minutes tonight to see about putting my bike back together as a refresher....1988 VR, replacing the steering bearings. So...I put the bearing races and triple tree in the freezer to "shrink" them Races went into the neck just fine! I was told to put the bearings in the oven at about 200' or so to expand them, then tap them on with some PVC pipe. Question....how to I pack the bearings? Before the heat...they'll just melt the grease out of the bearings and make a mess. After the heat?...Still, will the grease not just heat up and run out? And by the time I pack them...will they not cool off too much? -
Need some proper info on tightening the steering nut such as torque specs, procedures, etc. I installed new races and bearings top and bottom. Im attempting to install the tree and, following the shop manuals tightening procedures, it just seems to be a bit off. It calls for tightening the nuts to 37 ft lbs but when I tried that it tightened up well before it even would have clicked, which it didnt. The whole tree was way too stiff and hard to turn. Now, just to clear stuff up: the races are fully seated, bearings are fully greased with Honda Moly 60 and im using the machined spacer that SkyDoc sold a while ago to replace the rubber "washer". So, any suggestions? -
So... my tranny needed some work. I have the parts. I am swapping gears and bearings over to my new transmission drive shaft. I have the end of the shaft with the proverbial wore out shims done which is the main cause of the second gear slip! I am trying to get the gears and bearings off the other side of this shaft. I see no circlip and the assy is tight...even put some light pressure on it with my press. The parts schematic shows a circlip, but I see none... ( part number 25 if you can open the attachment) Anybody? Hate to push to hard and damage something. -
Ok, so my 88vr flunked the safety check....they said the steering bearing was toast. I felt some "clunking" when I rode it home from Chicago and it felt a bit snakey in the corners so I figured they were probably right. BUT...tonight I started tearing into it...put it up on the jack so the front end was free and clear. I tried the "bounce test" but the limits of travel are restricted by wires and hoses and so it won't bounce at all...it eases to the limit, along with some the creaking sound of rubber on rubber. I grabbed the front wheel , standing in front of the bike and tried to lift and pull forward at the same time...no movement, no "clunking". I'm thinking they flunked it because of rubber...not because of bearings! And of course the potential 4 hours labour plus parts to replace the steering bearings. ADDED: did more checking and I can feel a flat spot when steering is centered...could that be enough to fail a safety? Any thoughts?
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The Dealer says I need steering head bearings which is over 4 hours labour at $85 per hour plus the kit. The bike only has 65,000 so I"m wondering if perhaps they are just loose. I'm going to look into that this afternoon. But if I need some work on it........I've got Dingy's wrench But I need a "how to". I found a tutorial for 2nd Gen by Freebird...but couldn't find anything on a 1st Gen (mkII) ....could anyone let me know if there is a how to on REPLACING or Greasing the steering bearings?
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About to buy some wheel bearings on line. 83-93 are the same bearings aren't they?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330556005707&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
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