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Ok, I pulled the rear a while wheel a while back and cleaned up the hub splines and when I was working on that I notice a tick in the rear bearings. I ordered the bearings, seals and a new o-ring and now I'm into the replacement. A local shop offered to install the bearings for $5.00 per side and I figured fair enough. Save me some time. When I took the wheel in today they took one look at it and said they could not do that type of set up. At least they were honest about it. So here I am looking at my rear wheel. The manual is vauge in the statement to push the spacer aside and drive out the bearing. First, the spacer don't move far enough to the side to get a good bite on the bearing from either side. I'm using a 5/16 brass flat nose punch to do this. I was able to pull out the larger seal and retainer ring on that side but it looks like I need to drive out the larger bearing from the smaller side to remove the smaller seal from that side. Which side do I start from and how is the smaller seal removed? Any suggestions will help. Mike

83 Venture Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement (This document in Word format attached)83 Venture-Rear-Wheel-Bearings-Replacement.docx. My apologies for the formatting below - outlines don't come out very well in plain text. See the Word doc. I was experiencing some rear noise and vibration when leaning to the left and it was becoming progressively worse. I had never done the ‘Venture Rear Wheel Service” as documented in the forum (Ozlander 09-17-2015), so I decided to undertake that. I took the original write-up, and broke it down into numbered steps so I could check each one off as I went (I just find that a little easier to follow). I have included that below. I did not find any problems until I came to the bearing inspection part of the process, I did notice a little bit of roughness in the gear-side bearing (the needle bearing), but even more unusual, there was significant play in the inner bearing collar that forms the inner race of that bearing (it would slide in and out about 3/8’s of an inch). So I decided to undertake a replacement of the entire set. I searched the forums high and low for information on how to do that, and found a number of them, but there are differences between the different generations (to be expected), and there may be differences between the 3 years of the first gens. I can only speak about my experiences with this 83. After reviewing the various forums, I began the process of ordering the parts. Here is the complete list of parts as extracted from the YAMAHA parts website (https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/parts/star-mcy?ls=Star&dealernumber=#/Yamaha/XVZ12TK_-_1983/REAR_WHEEL ) 1983 XVZ12TK & TDK per Yamaha's web site Item # Part # Description Yamaha price 3 93317-32635-00 BEARING, CYLINDRICAL | Use w/Item 28 38.78 kit 2 90560-20235-00 Spacer 19.37 4 90387-200J2-00 COLLAR 14.22 5 93306-30417-00 BEARING 32.18 kit replaced by part # 93306-30437-00 6 99009-52500-00 CIRCLIP 6.41 7 93102-25064-00 OIL SEAL 7.64 kit 12 93440-45022-00 CIRCLIP 6.67 13 93210-68347-00 O-RING 4.72 kit 14 2H7-25315-00-00 FLANGE, SPACER 5.5 partzilla 15 93106-40027-00 OIL SEAL 8.27 kit 28 90387-203H7-00 COLLAR | Use w/Item #3 15.41 partzilla Total $ 159.17 Don’t let the Yamaha price scare you, as you can’t order any of this from them anyway. I listed it just for reference purposes as I shopped around. I found a reference in one of the forums to a kit from OEMCYCLE (Pivot Works part # PWRWS-Y23-000) and it was available for $55 so I ordered it. The only drawback was that they did not list the detail parts that were included in the kit. So I waited until it arrived to find out exactly what was in it – those are noted in the list above by ‘kit’ - it was missing two critical parts – Item 14 (FLANGE,SPACER), and Item 28 (COLLAR). The name for Item 28 is a bit of a misnomer as it is actually the inner piece of the needle bearing that functions as the inner race for that bearing (and is the piece that I noted above was moving in and out suspiciously) – the YAMAHA site specifically states that it should be ordered in conjunction with Item 3 (the outer portion of the needle bearing). OEMCYCLE did not list that part as orderable (nor did the Pivot Works site either), so I was able to find it on Partzilla (along with the SPACER FLANGE – more about that below). The parts I did not order and reused were the two circlips, the SPACER (Item 2), and Item 4 (COLLAR) which is more of a washer that is external to the bearings and seals. I should note at this point, that in my original Service Manual for the 83, the Rear Wheel Diagram (Page 5-7) does not show Item # 28 (the COLLAR that forms the inner race for the bearing) – it is present on the Yamaha Website diagram – I have now penciled it in on my manual. REMOVING THE OLD BEARINGS: I searched the forums for some details on this, and was not confident that what I found would actually pertain to the 83. I was able to find a webpage (by searching for the bearing part numbers) which documented bearing removal for an XS11 and looked exactly the same as what I was seeing on the 83 Venture. It was good up to a certain point, but then deviated from the reality of the 83 as I will note below. So here is the link – good pix and text – I will summarize the steps my buddy (Tim Tucker) and I actually took and where we had to deviate from the XS11 procedure. Link to pix from XS11 Yamaha – had same part # for one of the bearings: http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/repairs/32/193-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-pictorial.html 1. Starting on the brake side, we used a seal puller to remove the oil seal, exposing the circlip underneath. 2. We removed the circlip, so the bearing could now be pounded out from the opposite side (in theory, once you have that side opened up). 3. We turned the tire over (setting it on a pair of wood 2x4’s to protect the brake disc) and tried to follow the step in the XS11 procedure – it shows using a seal puller to remove the seal and collar – that does not work for the 83 – the seal and collar are a different part. The seal on the 83 is rubber/vinyl with an external metal ring (that is pressed into the hub) but more importantly, it contains a tiny embedded coil spring – the spring is what prevents the collar from pulling completely out of the bearing. We ended up cutting the outer rubber portion of the seal all the way around until we exposed the spring, then pulled that out with a pair of needle nose pliers. That allowed the inner collar to slide completely out. With the extra room, we were then able to grab the rest of the seal with a pair of diagonals, distort it, and twist it completely out. So what you are left with at this point on the gear side is the outer race and needle bearings. 4. The XS11 procedure now states to hammer out the big bearing from this side, by shifting the flanged spacer over, to gain access to the outer race of the big bearing. This is an oversimplification of what needs to happen (for the 83 at least) and is a good time to describe what is actually in this hub and how it is meant to fit together. The design is that the long Spacer aligns with the inner race of the large bearing and with the inner race (the ‘collar’ noted above) of the needle bearing so that those parts remain relatively stationary while the wheel itself rotates with the outer races. The Spacer Flange is there to maintain the proper alignment of the long Spacer with the center of the large bearing – because the cavity at that end of the wheel hub is the diameter of the large bearing, so there is all that space for the long spacer to flop around. The Spacer Flange is basically a donut that is the same diameter as the large bearing, and the long spacer fits inside the donut hole, lining up with the inner race. At this point in the removal, we did not understand that. We could not get the spacer to ‘shift’ as the XS11 procedure stated – it would wiggle very slightly, to reveal the edge of the inner race, but no more. We eventually resorted to hammering on the spacer with a large drift pin, which basically distorted the Spacer Flange until the long spacer came loose from the center of the Spacer Flange and was then free to slide all around the inside cavity of the hub, revealing the outer race of the large bearing and making that accessible to hammering with the drift pin. Of course the Spacer Flange was sitting on top of the large bearing, but being thin metal, it was perfectly fine to hammer on it to pound out the large bearing. Once that popped out, the mangled Spacer Flange came with it, and the long Spacer fell out as well. Knowing what we know now, we suspect that it would have been possible from the needle bearing side to pull the Spacer/SpacerFlange assembly up thru the needle bearing (the Spacer is the same diameter as the needle bearing collar we removed above) just enough so that the Flange portion would clear the housing above the large bearing – it might pivot just enough to get a drift pin down thru the spacers and catch the outer race of the large bearing, allowing you to hammer it out – the next person to follow this procedure will need to update this document with their findings. 5. That left just the needle bearing still in the wheel on the gear side. The XS11 procedure had a picture showing two cutouts in the inner wheel housing that would allow you to insert a small drift pin to hammer out the needle bearing from the opposite side. Unfortunately, there were no cutouts on the 83’s hub. The hub completely blocks any access to the bearing from the opposite side. I considered drilling my own holes, but eventually decided against that. So at this point I cried uncle, and took the wheel to a local bike shop. For a half-hour labor’s charge, they told me that they ripped out the needle bearings form the outer race, then used a small bearing puller that budged it enough so the inside edge of the bearing was then exposed enough to catch it with a drift pin from the other side, and finished by hammering it out. 6. Installing the new bearings: we laid out the parts and slid them onto the axle to verify we understood how it needed to go back together. Started with the large sealed bearing, then the Spacer Flange (open side against the bearing, followed by the long Spacer, then the Collar (Inner Race of the needle bearing) and then the needle bearing itself (which we had not yet greased up and so we did not actually slide the collar into it). This is the point where we first really understood how it all was meant to work. When we initially slid the Spacer Flange up against the large bearing, it was contacting the bearing’s rubber seal and wanted to turn with the outer race. We knew that couldn’t be right, and it finally dawned on us that the long Spacer was meant to fit through the Spacer Flange and thus keep the flange from contacting the rubber seal. a. So the next step was to insert the long Spacer into the Spacer Flange. This is accomplished simply by laying the Spacer Flange on a flat surface (open side down) and tapping the long spacer through the center until it comes into contact with the flat surface. The end result is the long Spacer protrudes thru the flange to allow it to contact the bearing while preventing the outer edge of the Flange Spacer from touching the bearing seal or outer race. We verified that by sliding everything back onto the axle and now the only parts touching were those that lined up with the inner race of both bearings. b. Lay the wheel with the large bearing side up c. Insert the Spacer/Flange Spacer assembly into the hub (long spacer first – it will protrude out the other side of the hub). d. Insert the new large bearing into the hub and gently hammer into place. We used the tip from the XS11 instructions and had already cut a notch out of the old bearing, so we laid the old bearing on top of the new one and hammered on that until the new one was completely seated. The old bearing pops right out of the wheel housing when squeezed with a pair of plyers. e. Install the circlip f. Install the new seal g. Flip the wheel over – the Spacer/Flange Spacer assembly should slip back down and sit on the newly installed bearing h. Grease the new needle bearing i. Install new needle bearing – again we used the old needle bearing (which we also had notched) as a hammering tool. j. Apply a little grease to the new Collar (inner race) and insert into the needle bearing (smaller end first). It should butt against the Spacer inside the hub. k. Install the oil seal l. Reinstall the hub per the instructions in the Rear Wheel Service document i. Apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. ii. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. 7. The wheel is now ready for installation.   Venture Rear Wheel Service You may ask, "Doesn't my dealer do that?" NOT UNLESS YOU TELL, HIM THAT YOU WANT IT DONE. This service should be completed every tire change or 10,000 miles (16,000k) or at least every two years; but in most cases it isn't done because we don't always have a dealer replace our tires and/or we don't tell him to do the work. So if you just bought the bike or you are not sure it has been done, it would be a good time to think about servicing the rear wheel of your Venture. The procedure is fairly simple to do on bikes without a trailer hitch and only a little harder if your bike has one. 1. Remove the rear bags 2. Remove the right muffler 3. Remove the rear brake caliper 4. Deflate the tire; then remove the rear wheel: a. Remove the axel cotter pin, washer, and axel nut b. Remove the caliper and loosen the pinch bolt c. While supporting the brake torque stopper plate, pull out the rear axel d. Move the wheel to the right side and separate it from the final gear cases and remove the rear wheel. 5. If your Venture is a 1983, 84, or 85 you will need to remove the rear drive or differential and remove the drive shaft: a. Remove the final gear case assembly b. Remove the drive shaft. 6. Clean the drive shaft and coupling, then grease both ends before putting it back in (note: make sure that the shaft goes back into the u-joint. If you are not sure, remove the spring on the boot covering the u-joint and check it. Next clean the spline or gear on the rear drive and grease it with a good quality grease, personally I use a medium Moly based grease. 7. Wheel cleaning/inspection: a. Now find a couple of 2" x 4"s and place the rear wheel (spline side up) on the boards. b. When you clean the hub and splines off you will see the spring clip or circlip that holds the hub in place; i. remove this clip and before you remove the hub mark the position of the hub so you can replace it in the same holes it came from. ii. Now clean the hub and inspect it for wear iii. Then apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. iv. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. v. Check the bearings inside of the wheel and check the bearing movement; if they are rough or worn replace them. 8. Now for the mono shock pivots: a. Place a jack under the rear drive to take the strain off of the mono shock then dissemble. b. Clean and grease all of the pivot points and reassemble (if you have a 90 - 93 or you have had grease fittings installed, just give them a squirt). 9. Before you install the rear wheel take the axle and put it back through the swing arm into the final drive to check the alignment. If you find that it is in a bind you will have to change the wedge shim between the final drive and the swing arm. 10. Check the oil level in the rear drive or replace the oil if it has been 10,000 miles since it was serviced and check the brake pads for wear. 11. You can now reassemble your bike and have another year or two of trouble free riding.

2007 Second Gen with 100000km on it. I have purchased new front and rear wheel bearings/seals and new swing arm bearings/seals. Plan on replacing all of them this winter. Does anyone have any experience or tips on how to remove them. Thanks in advance. Jim

I'm working on a '92 Royale and I will be removing the rear wheel to put on a new tire. I was thinking this would be a good time to change the wheel bearing (odometer reads 27,000+ but I think it's 127,000+). I'm having a hard time figuring out what exactly to order. On the fiche, I see a collar (90387-203H7-00), cylindrical bearing (93317-32635-00) and a bearing (93306-30417-00). Do I need all three of these parts? I can't find the collar. Do I need something else? What usually gets changed, if anything? Or, is the rear wheel bearing not something that usually gets changed and I just need to make sure it's greased? Thank you so much for reading this post and I look forward to reading any replies. Richard

Since Outcast was stuck in SC with a front wheel bearing gone bad, it got me to thinking. Wouldn't it be a good thing if we could do some research and see if parts could be found that would work in a pinch such as this. I'm thinking most bearings could be cross matched with something from the automotive line or even heavy equipment house. Is there some way to use the oem part number and find out what the actual dimensions are for a given bearing, such as the front wheel bearing without having to dismantle someone's bike to measure the bearing? I think this could turn out to be a good thing if someone is broke down far from home on the weekend. As was stated in the other post, most metric dealers are closed on Sunday and Monday. What if a bearing could be had from, God forbid I would even suggest this, a Harley dealer! A lot of them are open on Sundays.

I think I will me replacing my front wheel bearing. (I feel a buzzing in the handlebars & a whirring sound when I lean into turns even thought the bearings are not sloppy) So I have to buy a puller. I know the Tusk bearing remover set would work 8mmm- 31mm but it's $90 and a tool I don't use often SO.... My question is will this Harbor Freight set work as well. It's Standard sizes not metric & since IDK the size of the front bearing I figure I will ask here. http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

Im rebuilding the rear wheel with all new bearings, spacers and seals. I have a question on the proper positioning of a spacer flange on the disc brake side of the wheel so maybe someone here who has had to rebuild their wheel and/or someone who has removed the bearings on that side can answer this. Or maybe someone who has a rear wheel laying around with the bearings removed can chime in too. The spacer flange is a stamped steel spacer with one side flat and one side hollow. It goes into the wheel just behind the wheel bearing and seats into a cut-out in the axle opening, followed by the bearing. What I need to know is what side of the flange faces the bearing. The flat part, which im leaning to or the hollow portion? The parts fiche offers no help. Thanks

I m wondering if a bearing is bad or the clutch basket is wobbling. I replaced the pressure plate bearing but the noise is still there. The noise is a whirring sound almost like something is wobbling coming from the gear area loudest at 3000 rpm, stops when I pull the clutch in. At idle a slight rumble goes away when I pull the clutch in. I get on acceleration a rumble/vibration coming from the gear area. The noise is really starting to bother me. The carbs have been synced. Any ideas?

Hi gang allow me to introduce myself, I just bought a new for me 1991 Venture Royale so my wife and I could go touring 2 up. The Venture only has 72,000km so my thought was uhm just broken in. My other steed is a BMW 1989 k100rt with 125,000 km, my wife just doesn't find it comfortable for long hauls so its gonna have to go. Anyhow back to the subject at hand. There is a whiney drone coming from the engine area. The sound occurs while riding, and occurs when I release the throttle and last until the engine revs are very low, it happens all the time at any speed and in all gears. I suspect something to do with the clutch. This evening I removed the presure plate the friction plates and clutch plates, all are within specs. I have not yet removed the basket however I did grasp it in my 2 hands and was able to slightly move it laterally forward backwards and up and down. Here is my question am I right to suspect that the bearing just behind the basket might be worn or damaged as any play in the basket (shaft) doesn't seem right. Maybe worn bearing, side play affected by the torque of the engine compression slowing down the bike? Check out this picture it was taken by Freebird and this is what he found behind his clutch basket notice the bearings, the cage is broken I suspect this could cause the severe noise I am experiencing. http://www.venturerider.org/engineremoval/images/815.jpg

My steering head has a center-detent that just gets worse as the miles pile on. Can I knock the bearing and race out, rotate and put it back in?

I post this for those that may be interested and for those who offered thoughts about a cure. I had posted here a while back about noise in the final of my 650. After 2 months and a ring gear bearing, wheel bearings, new drive shaft, and coupling gear, the noise was still there. So today, after removing the drive shaft, I took out the retaining ring that holds the input shaft and bearings in the final housing. Upon doing so, the cage of the roller bearing fell out. The 7 rivets that hold the cage together, inside the race, thus keeping all the bearing balls seperated and spaced, were broke and the halves of the cage have significant grinding wear. Thankfully there was no damage to the input shaft and the local dealer was able to get the bearing and sleeve pressed off the shaft. I'll have it back next week with new bearings and hopefully be done with this. Just thought I would share my story and findings.

Which way does this spacer go on the rear wheel? This spacer goes against the rear wheel bearing and is the seal surface the seal rides against. There is a raised shoulder on one side while the other is flat. Pictures of both are attached. I am assuming the raised part goes against the bearing since it is the same diameter are the inner race. And yes, those are the balls from the rear wheel bearing. Not good. RR

Please soneone, what are the bearing numbers for the front wheel, '07 RSV. Not Yamaha #, SKF or any other good bearing as in C3. Is 6004.2rs.C3 the right one? tew47:fingers-crossed-emo

Putting a new 150/80-16 Venom on the front and I feel a tight spot on both wheel bearings. I am going to replace them. I have 2 questions. A search here did not help me much. (1) How do you get the bearings out ? With the inner spacer I see no way to use a standard bearing puller or a drift punch to knock em out, no lip to drive them out. (2) Sourcing the bearing and seal? Yamaha part or from a bearing supply ? Aftermarket part numbers?

Does anybody know which type of grease that Yammie uses in their left rear wheel bearing? It's reasonably clear on a new bearing, so I'd suspect that it's lithium complex grease but..... Frank

Well, I guess I am done with doing all thr things I wanted to do to the bike so now it is time to start with the trailer. I have already rewired and replaced all the lights. Repacked the bearing so now it is time to slap a paint job on the thing to match my 2000 MM. Let's hope it turns out.

The rear wheel roller (left) bearing inner race (aka collar) won't pull out easily from the bearing, and I'd like to grease that bearing. Do you usually have to push it or tap it out from the right side? I'd like to get it out without damaging the bearing. Thanks, Frank D.

While taking off my forks to get Progressive springs installed, I checked the bearings and found the lower cup showing wear/damage lines. Since I could feel the line with my fingernail, I believe it is time to replace these bearings (probably only the lower needs replaced, but I am replacing both while in there). I took the lower tree with the lower bearing cone (inner race) to the dealer along with my forks. They are doing the spring replacement since I do not have the proper tools to remove and install the seals. They are going to remove the bottom bearing for me. However, I am looking at a way to remove the bearing cups (outer races) from the neck. The shop manual says to use a long drift for the lower. Nothing in my tool chest comes close to fitting in there. I borrowed a tool from the dealer to remove the top cup. We will see tonight if it will work. My questions is: What do you use to remove the lower cup in the steering head tube? RR

Ok Now that I am basically road ready, I want to tighten the front end. The Class is working perfect but regardless of the air pressure the when driving over manholds & bumps the front kinda clunks. So I'm going to redo the front end. 1. New Progressive Springs 2. New Neck Bearings - the neck bearing are tight but since I will have the handlebars off why not do the bearings I need a good source for Springs. & good = less expensive. Also are Lytle Racing Group or Air Balls Racing Neck bearing good? If not which do you recommend? After this is done it should be time for long distance cruising time!

Last fall my '86 developed a whine coming from the rear tire area, I checked it out as best as I could and decided that the inside wheel bearing by the final drive was probably shot. So this spring I got a new set of bearings and replaced them, lubed & greased up the clutch hub and changed the oil in the final drive and made sure the backlash was OK. The oil from the pumpkin was VERY black but there was only 1 very small piece of metal on the magnet & I did not find anything in the bottom of the drain pan. I got it together tonight & just got back from a test ride and am frustrated that the sound is still there . . . but much easier to pinpoint now that the bearing is corrected. I'm getting a wine that is audible from the drive shaft area of the bike. Using a long screw driver as a stethoscope and the bike running in gear on the stand, the sound is the loudest at the input of the final drive. Is it likely that the drive shaft just needs to get lubed up again or something more serious? If that is not it does the big bearing for the input shaft go bad @ about 100K? Has anyone replaced the big bearing for the input shaft on the final drive? Is it difficult? OR . . . it best to start looking for a new final drive and leave that one alone? Thanks, Mike

Well, I've noticed the front end on my bike has been clunking while going over bumps for a bit now. I attributed it to loose neck bearings, and was partially right because it had a washy feeling as well. Took the top bearing out and it was loose as anything, the rollers would sit inside the cage, not good. So I installed a new top bearing and just left the bottom bearing on the steer shaft because it felt and looked good, just lubed it up real well and slid the whole assembly back on. It tightened up my steering nicely but still have the noise. With me off the bike, and the full 17psi in the front forks, if I hold the front brake in and push the front of the bike down when the shocks reach a certain point is when I hear the clunking. I guess it's time to pull the shocks? To be sure it wasn't the bottom bearing I had the bike jacked up and moved pulled on both shocks at the same time, not loose at all, could probably stand to be re-torqued since I installed the new top bearing. I wanted to do the progressive upgrade anyway so I guess now is the time. Any insight? Thanks.

OK, got this noise from the rear like a wheel bearing going down, so I put her on a lift, spin the tire and its got a spot, same place every turn, like a flat spot on bearing. So I pull the axle, then spin the tire and quite as a mouse, so I take the wheel in to the shop and have both side wheel bearing and seals replaced. Came back home put it all back together, SAME THING, with axle in and while riding same noise, axle out no noise. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 2step

ok, so without getting into the brand too much, what are the recommendations for front tire size? which vendor? if theres a deal, i may get the rear. so which size rear also? should i change the front bearing with it? not sure if its ever been changed. 32k

I have removed the right side oil seal, bearing and collar. I removed the drive pin assembly and oil seal on the left side. The bearing on the left side appears to be removed toward the right, is this correct and what do you use to drive it out. I have a Tusk bearing puller but this bearing cannot be remove toward the left due to burrs inside the wheel. The only way it could have been installed is through the right side.:think:

I got the lower steering bearing pressed on, and the bearing races in. I can start putting everything back together again. Obviously I have to pack the bearings...but other than that is there ANYTHING I should be aware of or is it pretty much just do the reverse of what I did to take it apart?