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Showing results for tags 'battery'.
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Hey all you First Gen Gurus, Last fall I noticed what I thought at the time were indicators of a bad stator on my '83 Venture. I was riding it and noticed that when I would turn on my turn signals the voltage needle would fluctuate each time the turn signals flashed and also when the radiator fan would come on the voltage would dip from 14 - 16 volts down to about 10. Since it was time to put it in the barn (and also because a mechanic told me replacing the stator would require pulling the engine and a huge labor bill) I decided to deal with it this spring. Over the winter I kept a trickle charger on the battery and started it up every few weeks and it always seemed like it was putting out about 12 - 14 volts as long as it was running at idle. Since I wasnt riding it, i didnt see any of the earlier mentioned behaviour. When I got it out this spring suddenly the battery seemed to be dead, the voltage meter is at the bottom of the scale even after the charger has been on for 2 days at 2 amps. So now Im thinking dead cell in a reasonably new Deka Gell battery. The big question is...can a battery thats going bad make a non-techie boy like me think its the stator? Or is it more like the stator is bad and now the battery is as well? Or could it be the voltage regulator not functioning and not charging the battery or sending the correct voltages to the lights/instruments? Any advice or opinions would be welcome......Im also trying to decide if its time to put the old girl up for sale as a parts bike or fixer upper. Thanks! George0fthejungle -
Ok, so I saw the thread in the library about the battery bypass. I found what I think is the right wire. It's right behind the battery bow, and is white with a red stripe. Problem is the actual sensor is not there, it's been unplugged from the wire. The plastic connector is on the wire, but the sensor wire is missing. So am I looking at the right wire? And if so, how do I bypass it from there with the sensor wire missing? Thanks for the help guys. -
OK. I have absolutely no experience with a stator going bad on my Venture Royale and I have no idea what to look for if a problem is developing. I've heard that on a Gold Wing, when the stator goes out, everything goes out. You're basically dead in the water. I have no idea if that is typical with this bike or not. Here's what I've experienced today. I had to run to the parts house to get some new brake pads for the wife's Geo. Everything went as clockwork. I fred up the bike, drove to the Zone, got the parts, and driv back. I went back out to fire the bike up about four hours later. The bike turn once, then started clicking. I had to use the battery charger to get it fired up. I got it running again and driv it to the cars wash so's I could clean it up a bit. Got done, tried to fire it up, it turned twice and quit. Had to call the wife out to jump start me (I ain't pushin' it). I got it fired back up and took it for an investigative ride. Once the RPM's get over 2 G's, it shows to be charging just below the 3/4 mark on the voltmeter (well above the 12 mark). If I let it idle, the voltmeter drops to just above the yellow mark (well below the 12 mark). When the engine is running 2 G's and above, the voltmeter stays just below the 3/4 mark and does not fluctuate. So what could have caused my problem? Is the stator trying to go bad? The previous owner also had replaced the original battery with one from a Gold Wing. As a result, I have no place to stick the special battery sensor tube. Could this be where my problem lies? Do I just need to get out and ride the bike some more to keep the battery charged up?
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It seems milwaukee tool has come out with a battery powered heated jacket. Has anyone here tried it yet? http://www.tools-plus.com/milwaukee-2330.html
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Greetings I had to replace my Battery today, on the road, and was wondering if 4 years on the OEM Battery is normal or below normal, for a well maintained Battery?
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Hello I hope Anyone can help me... My Battery from my 2002 Yamaha Midnight Venture is draining, after 3 days the battery is to low to start the bike....I first thought it was the battery , so I replaced it for a new one ..but I still have the same problem. I put the Multimeter behind ..and it looks like, I have a drain of 0.18 Amp. Does Anyone have any idea's what it can be ? thank you
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Note: This post is kinda long, but not too technical(except for the very end). There has been a lot of discussion in the past about the amount of reserve electrical capacity on an RSV for accessories, although most of the detailed facts were BC and no longer available for review. Some folks have glibly stated that the RSV has "lots" of extra electrical power available (with which I completely DISagree). So I thought I would publish some real world observations without a lot of stats to interpret. My 2005 QuickSilver has quite a few added lights, but with the exception of 4 small 3 watt instrument bulbs, all of them are LEDs, so they do not significantly increase the total load. My Driving lights are stock Yamaha accessories with original bulbs. I have both an ammeter (which allows me to see absolute proof if current is going in-to or out-of the battery at any moment, and a digital volt meter that reads to the tenth of a volt. I also have a tach. Most of you know that these bikes have four individual carb heaters, 15 watts each, for a total of 60 watts, which is a significant load. I don't know the trigger temp for the heaters, but it seems to be around the low 60s. The thermal switch is under the rear battery covers, so engine heat causes them to be shut off after warm-up unless the temp is quite a bit lower. When trying to figure out how much extra load you can add to an RSV, you need to factor in this 60 watt load if you are going to be riding in any cool or cold weather. Obviously important if you are going to use heated clothing! To recap, the electrical load on my bike is almost stock. I am experimenting with a set of grip heaters that pull about 2 amps/25 watts. I know they are not malfunctioning because they are wired through a 3 amp fuse which has not blown. Today, the temp was right around 30 degrees as I headed to work - cold enough to guarantee the carb heaters never shut off from engine heat. I ride about 25 miles, so this is far enough to ensure the current drain from starting the bike is completely replaced by the time I get to work, giving me the opportunity to observe the charging system both with a battery taking light charge, then a fully charged battery. Bottom line: with the driving lights on and the grip heaters on but headlight on low beam, the RSV can just barely handle the charging requirements of a normal battery in good condition at engine speeds above 1,800 RPM. Turning off the driving lights (total load reduction of 70 watts) makes a BIG difference. Below 1,800 RPM with driving lights and grip heaters on, the ammeter shows the charging system cannot handle the load and the battery is discharging. Hitting the brakes dramatically increases that discharge, and brakes with turn signals even more. This means the RSV has very little practical reserve charging capacity during cold weather unless you turn off the driving lights! Here are the technical details to go with those observations: At high idle after starting (about 1200 RPM, while the battery is trying to take a charge, with lights and grip heaters but no brakes or signals), the system voltage reads only about 10.9 volts, and the ammeter shows the battery is discharging. Raising the RPM close to 2,000 pushes the voltage up to 11.7, and the ammeter shows 0, meaning that the charging system is handling all the lights and heaters, but nothing (or only minor amount) is left to recharge the battery. Over 2,000 RPM shortly after starting (all conditions the same as above), the system voltage raises to about 12.3 and the ammeter begins showing a slight current flowing into the battery. After the battery is fully recharged, the system voltage at idle with lights and grip heaters but without brakes or signals is about 11.9, and the ammeter still shows a slight discharge. Hitting the brakes at idle drops the voltage to 10.9. Fully recharged battery with lights and grip heaters on, normal cruising RPM, the system voltage registers about 13.2. With a fully recharged battery, turning off only the grip heaters at idle pushes the voltage back up to about 12.8, and turning off the driving lights gets it all the way back up to about 13.5.This test is admittedly unscientific, and all the voltages were based only on memory from this morning's ride (not carefully written down under precise conditions), but I hope that information at leasts gives you something to base your decisions on when deciding on additional accessories. Good luck, Goose
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I just bought a r/r on ebay because my battery was not getting the correct voltage and I did the voltage test that was recommended. The bike was running fine at this point, just not charging the battery. (83 Venture) I recieved the used R/R and installed and the battery picked right up. I thought all is well until now the bike seams to be missing and the tach keeps dropping. from the assorted forums I suspected I had a bad TCI or moisture ect. I did the ohms test on the cables. After removing both plugs from the TCI and testing the 6-pin connector's black wire I did not get a connection to ground on the neg battery cable. the 8-pin connector's black wire tested good. I did notice the ground connection would be made through the TCI if the 8-pin was connected to the TCI. Is this Correct? Shouldn't the 6-pin cable be be indpendent and not rely on the TCI to ground the pick up points. Regardless the R/R that I got seemed to cause me problems because once I disconnect it, the bike runs fine again. I could use some help from some one who may have gone thru this already.
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My 83 just started flashing the battery emblem when I start it up. After several minutes of running, the battery emblem goes out and does not appear until I shut off the engine and restart it. I'm suspecting first the battery, then the charging system second. How do I go about determining which is at fault? Thanks ahead of time for the help.
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I have an 06 Venture. Got on the bike yesterday and get 1 click at the starter. I charged the battery and still the same 1 click. Took the battery in and it checks out as good and fully charged. Checked battery connections and still only one click at the starter. Everything else works,lights are bright and etc. I am not sure where to look for the problem. Any advise is appreciated. -
Hi everyone, Firstly just a short introduction, I live in the UK just purchased a 1990 Venture Royale XVZ1300, Cali import. Been riding 21 years, always been on sprts bikes but decided that I need to act more responsibly now I'm over 40 ha ha. Love the bike, fantastic fun to ride and so comfy.. however I have a problem. I had to buy a new battery, got the right one in the end 12v 20ah, then discovered that the reg/rec wasn't working, so at great expense ( VAT, and customs !!) , purchased a replacement one from the US. Fitted it to the bike, the problem is that when the bike is revved at 2000 rpm, with a tester on the battery terminals it is only showing 12.16 to 12.19v . There is power coming from the reg when the plug is tested, and it rises and falls when revved, there is also power coming from the stator... I always thought that when revved it should show around 14v ?. The battery never drops below 12v even when idling and the lights are on, brake operated etc etc. Is it different for the Venture Royale, or is there another problem somewhere else, and if so ...... any ideas ????? :icon_smile_question Thanks... and hello again
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It never ends, this shinola. Wanted to do a 50-miler today to start working up to a road trek, weather cooperating, up in the 50s. Left the house, went two miles to a gas station. As I was coasting up to the pump she just unceremoniously up and quit. Like I hit the kill switch. After the fork rebuild, triple tree grease job, clutch slave cylinder replace and assorted small jobs it also did this after it warmed up the first time. Just sitting in the driveway idling, then it just died. Ran the battery down trying to start it, so put the charger on and it fired off again after a couple minutes. Figured the battery had gotten down in the cold and down time since before Christmas and that it didn't leave enough juice for ignition. Then today it happened again. I have started my flyaway kit and had a socket set and a combo screwdriver in the trunk, so removed the top cover to look at the fuses and connections again. I know I have a broken spade on the ignition fuse, but it also controls the starter, which spins just fine. Tried wiggling wires and anything I could reach while cranking, no luck. Decided maybe it was a charging issue so I unplugged the headlight, put everything together again and suited up, just in case, hoping that maybe there would be enough volts without the headlight to get back home. She fired up, so I hopped on and prayed that the 3 lights between me and home would be green. They were, and I made it a mile before she quit again. Pushed it to a school parking lot, and this time I pulled the tail light bulbs. JUST TO GET HOME Y'ALL!! Anyway, she fired back up and I made it within 3 houses of home. Do-able. I've looked at everything including: the emergency cutoff switch, the side stand switch and relay, the wiring to the fuse block and TCI (Ignitech), I have a Radioshack digital meter but I'm beginning to suspect its voracity. Rode around the block for about 10 minutes with it hooked to the battery. I get 13.5 volts idling, then it drops to around 13.1 around 3000 rpm. Dash gauge shows the drop, too. I checked the resistance on the pickup coils and got 136, 272,272, and 267 ohms respectively, book says should be 110± 10%. So those are way off. Think I'll cruise by Radio Shack and see if they can check the accuracy of my meter... So there you have it, sorry for the long post. I've looked for corrosion and loose or broken wires. Battery is right at a year old and freshly serviced with acid. Still suspecting it's a charging problem the way the voltmeter is acting. I haven't check the voltage regulator yet but that's my next step. Thanks for your help! Richard
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It is windy and feels like 17°F. Snow tomorrow. It will be in the mid 20's for a high for the next 2 or 3 days. This afternoon, I plugged my RSV battery on trickle charge. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/05/72ff461ad8047aba8010ff8e039022f7.jpg
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Got my bike all put back together with the new stator today, still no charging voltage at the battery. Pulled the connector off the R/R (was smart enough not to bolt it back in place) and checked for battery power, ground and voltage. I have everything at the connector now and charging voltage went up to 125 volts when I ran the idle up to ~4000 volts. Everything looks good stator side and with battery power and ground at the plug I have to assume the R/R is bad. Just looking for verification that I didn't miss something before I order one.
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OK, that time of year again, ( Time for yearly service on the bikes ) ie: both of them. So, I as thinking, its been a long time, since replaceing batteries, So order a new Odyessy AGM, PC-545 for the Busa, and anew PC-680 for my #2 battery in the RSTD. ( that bat was the #2 on the old 89 I sold 3 years ago ) Ok, switched them out today, and was surprised to see the date on the Old Busa battery, 11/04 !! 10 years, ago !!! Wow, I havehad that bike almost 11 years, how time fly's as they say. I checked the voltage on the old Odyessy, 545, it was still reading 12.8 Volts. Hmmm ?? Interesting. Installed the new PC-680 Odyessy, in the left saddle bag on the RSTD, checked the old one, still reading 12.6 V So, 10 years service on the Odyessy PC-545, and about 8 years of service from the PC-680. Not to shabby. Frankly, its hard to believe ??? I guess AGM, dry cells are the way to go, as they say !! Well, if anybody is interested, or needs to replace an old Lead Acid, type ---- The two old batteries, are still good, so will use them to power some Ham Radio , equipment in the garage.
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So I keep getting punished for teasing everyone about the wonderful weather we are having here. My battery capped out on my bike, fortunately in my garage and not somewhere away from home, but still ruined a nice day for a ride even if it was to work. Before I go and buy a battery to replace mine I've learned to bounce things off you guys so here it goes again. Any batteries out there that is a benefit over the stock ones in these bikes? Can't imagine there are too many options out there but I figure I should check just in case.
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There have been so many good reports on the Deka ETX18L battery for my 88VR that I have searched for retailers here in Ontario with little success. One local supplier can get me one but at almost twice the US price. So, I just got off phone with Bohannon Battery Distributor in Florida who are willing to ship to me here in Ontario. Is there any reason why I should be leery of Bohannon or shipping a battery to Canada? Any advice appreciated!
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My 84 Venture has aquired a little quirk. As I accelerate the battery warning comes on and the warning light will flash. Run down the road a little and it will return to normal. I can not make it happen, it seems to do it intermitantly. Any ideas? -
Just bought a 1985 gold wing aspencade 1200 and I'm thinking I may need a new battery? There are times where it will turn over as if the battery has very little power left. Then there are times where it turns over like it's saying "oh this is nothing" doesn't matter if I'm starting it for the first time that day or from after riding awhile. We (father) and me checked the charging system and it is charging at about 13.8-14.4 @2800 cruising speed. My grandfather ADC recommended to put a extra ground cable on the starter to the block to help ground the starter. Is there anything else I should check?
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Hi - I own a 1985 Venture with a computerized monitor - I just replaced the battery with a sealed version - nowhere to stick the sensor from the old battery - warning light is on on the dash - how do I "trick" the system to get rid of the light on the dash - tnx - Jim
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I've been hearing about these three for sometime now and, some use a battery tender, some use a battery maintainer and some use a battery charger. What is the difference. Spock: "A Difference That Make No Difference Is No Difference"
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I'm dusting off the venture and bringing it out of mothballs. Bike was stored at my folks house this winter so I didn't get a chance to charge the battery every so offten this season so the battery is pooched. I bought a new battery from VIP yesterday and filled it with the acid. My question is how long should it take for the first charge i'm slow charging it at 2amps but i think it read charged alot sooner then I expected. Only took maybe 5 hours I thought for our bikes it would take over night atleast.
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My first gen starts every time quick but cranks slow like a bad battery. Battery checks good, cables are clean. Is there a common problem to look at first? Battery is not new. -
I saw a couple of posts for stereo amps, but thats not what I was looking for. I am trying to boost the input on the AUX side. GPS dont seem to be to bad but if I use my phone for Pandora I really have to crank it up and then the quality suffers some. I have used a booteroo type amp in the phone side and it seemed to help but the battery dies in a few hours. I was thinking about just mounting it under the fairing when I install a splitter, but would have to fiure out a way to make a battery elminator and wire it straight in to a power source. I did see a fancy little unit with like 3 or 4 inputs and a volume knob but it was like $150. Any ideas?
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Ordered a couple Battery Tender Jr from Jafrum.com, on sale today for $17.99. $8.95 shipping on orders under $100. Did a little Christmas shopping get the free shipping. Read good reviews here about the company, some mixed reviews on other sites, will see if I get what I ordered.
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