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So after a lot of searching, I was not able to locate any threads specific to putting Flanders bars on an RSTD other than which ones and that they work well. I have wanted to do this for a while but was apprehensive about the cable and hose length when I saw different pictures of scooters with the new bars on. After starting to develop a sore left shoulder blade, my wife said it was time for me to go for it. Worst case, put the stock bars back on and sell the Flanders. Good enough. Since I couldn’t find a thread specific to RSTD's, I figure this was a good chance for me to contribute to the site and other RSTD owners who may want to put these bars on their scooter but are not sure how to do it or may be a little nervous about tearing apart their bike. Who knows, it may even end up in the tech library . I am mechanically inclined and I do most all my own car/house/electrical work. In hind sight, this job can be done by anyone with a small amount of skill, a few tools and the guts to try something. Really, what’s the worst that could happen? That being said, after I bought the bars, I was ready to tackle this project. I tore into this about 5 PM on Thursday and finished up around 10 PM (without putting the end weights on, more on that later) that same night. I did some internet price searching and found the bars that are recommended at a great price on this web site http://www.xtremerevolution.com/Store/spc-12346-19-7-flanders-1-inch-handlebars.aspx. I want to throw a BIG plug for these folks. They listed the bar for $120.95 on their site which is a GREAT price IMHO. I figured out that their store is here in San Diego, so I called them and went to pick up the bars (no shipping cost). When I got there, they sold me the bars at a discount as compared to the online price (maybe a break for being military) and I got them for $120.66 out the door (after the ‘governator’ got his cut of course). ALL the folks there were really friendly and most of them ride. Overall had a great experience and will go back for other custom parts. Here are the specifics on the Flanders bar as compared to the stock bar: 650-08373, Flanders Pullback Handlebars, Chrome, Metric Knurled (4" in side x 5" out side) - - - - - - - - Flanders - -Stock (06-09 RSTD) Height: - - - -9”- - - - - -8” Pullback: - -18.5”- - - -16.5” Center: - - - 8.5” - - - - 8” Width: - - - - 33”- - - - -33” Diameter - - 1”- - - - - -1” Here is the visual difference: The first two pics shows the pull back, the bar knurls are on top of each other. This one shows the added rise: Here are the steps I took. First step was to remove the windshield and put somewhere safe. Second and probably the most important one, COVER EVERYTHING in the area that is painted or chromed (ask me how I know this). I covered the tank, light bucket to start and then the cowling (after the aforementioned ‘ask me’ incident) so as not to ding anything as I went. After covering everything, I removed the speedometer, two 8mm bolts in the back and 1 allen bolt in the front. Once the speedo is loose, there is one connector covered by a rubber boot. To remove the connector, slide back the boot and there is a catch on the top in the center (yellow arrow). Push that in and the connector will come right out with a little jiggling. Below the speedometer are two black quick release zip ties. Lift the tab sticking out of the tie to release the lock, remove and set aside for later. After the zip ties, I released the plastic clamps that hold the cables on the sides of the stock handle bars, no pics of this, I just slid the clamp portion apart by hand and they opened right up. Now all the cables and hoses were loose. Next I removed the brake and clutch reservoirs. Pop out the chrome caps that cover the bolts then remove the two allen bolts that hold the clamp to the bar. HOLD ONTO THE MIRROR as you loosen the bolts, it will slip and turn (ask me how I know this one too). Once the bolts were out, I placed the assembly over the front of the forks between my head lamp and driving light. Repeat same process for the other side for the clutch reservoir. After the clutch is off, it’s easy to get to the two Phillips screws that hold the turn signal housing. Remove the screws and both assemblies can be put off to the side or front to keep them out of the way. Next I removed the throttle housing held in by two Phillips screws: Once the two screws are removed, the back half with the cruise control buttons and kill switch can be placed off to the side, just slip the wire housing out from the bottom of the front piece of the chrome housing. I had forgot this until later when it FELL OFF and hit the cowling (see first ‘ask me’ statement). Next, I loosened the throttle cables so the grip and the rest of the housing can be removed. I loosened the lock nut on the cable and then turn the adjusting screw to the stop to allow the most slack on the upper cable. This loosened the top cable enough to allow for removal from the throttle. I turned the throttle clockwise (as looking) at it as I slipped a scribe under the cable to pull it over the channel and then pushed the end through the holder. Picture isn’t real clear in the area I was working, but you get the idea. With the upper cable removed, the lower cable comes off easily the same way. Now the housing can be put off to the side. Next step is to remove the bar end weights. Pop the chrome cap and remove the center allen bolt. If this is the first time you are removing this bolt, it may be tight due to having red thread lock on it. With the bar end weight off, the throttle will slip off easily (make sure it doesn’t fall off when you remove the bar end weight). Remove the clutch side bar end the same way. At this point the stock bars should be pretty naked, accept the clutch side grip. I held off on removing this grip until I knew that the bars were going to fit the way I wanted, but it can be remove easily at any point. I slipped a scribe (small screw driver will work) between the grip and the bar and slowly moved it around the bar being careful not to damage the inside of the grip. Then I sprayed some lube (I used Sea Foam spray lubricant, but WD-40 or equivalent will work) between the grip and the bar. I worked it back and forth, this loosened the grip and it slipped right off. The stock bars are now ready to be removed. They are held in by two clamps with two allen bolts each. Loosen one bracket at a time. When you loosen the second bracket, HOLD ON TO THE HANDLE BARS (ask me how I know this one, glad the tank was covered). With the clamps off, the bars are free for removal. The new bars are ready to be put on. Just install them in the clamps and make sure they are centered between them. I positioned them in a neutral spot for height knowing I would have to adjust them once everything was on. This allowed for testing cable, wire and hose lengths. In order to make things easier, I removed the bracket at the top of the forks. Two allen bolts and it comes right off. This can be done before installing the new bar; I just didn’t realize I needed to until I got to this point. I found that the left side cables and hoses had plenty of room, but the right was going to be the challenge. The first thing I noticed that would need to change was the routing of the throttle cable. The cable was under the wire run to the headlight. The pencil in this picture is on top of the throttle cables and is pointing to the wire going to the head light is. In order to get the cables over the top, I needed to remove them from the chrome housing. I didn’t want to try and fit the chrome housing through the small space and scratch it when getting the cables off was so easy. One Phillips screw holds the clamp for the top cable and then it slips right out. The bottom one is screwed in, need to release the lock nut and then turn it off. Count the number of turns to remove so you know how far is goes back in when you reinstall. No pics, but pretty easy to do. Once the cables are out of the housing, it was a simple matter of feeding them back under the wire going to the head light. The cable now goes over the wire giving extra length and better options for routing. I had to test fit the throttle over the ends a couple times to find the right routing. The mounting of the throttle housing needs a hole in the bar to hold it in place. I measured the stock hole location so the mounting would be the same on the new bars. Stock location should be 6 19/32”. The tape was slipping when I took the picture, but 6 9/16” would work. The length from the end was easy; getting it the right way vertically was more challenging. I lined up the stock bars next to the Flanders to get a good idea of where to hole should be. The rest I just eyeballed. I marked the hole and then placed the housing pin over the mark to make sure it was in the right place. The picture shows two marks, the first one was for horizontal, the second for vertical, so the lower mark is the one I was using to test with. After lining up the housing and checking the about 10 times (a little nervous about drilling a hole in the bars), I took a swig of beer and hit the mark with a punch to dent the bar. Then a couple more swallows of beer, it was time to drill. After drilling a small pilot hole, I used a graduated metal bit to enlarge the hole to the right size. I put the throttle housing in the hole and everything lined up great. Next hurdle was the brake line. The stock position is in front of the forks and there was not enough slack to position the brake reservoir properly without really putting strain on the hose. I decided that I wanted to move the hose to the back of the forks as others have mentioned doing, but I didn’t want to remove the brake hose to do it (draining system, re-bleeding, blah blah). After some fiddling, I figured out that there was not enough room to fit the reservoir between the forks and the tank without some help by removing parts. I removed the right mirror (NOTE: the threading on the right mirror is reverse, that is why there is a notch in the lock nut) and the brake handle. The headlight bucket was also in the way and had to be moved to the left. Three 8mm bolts from the inside and it was loose and moved out of the way. With the fork at the left lock, a little fiddling and slow moves, I fit the reservoir through the gap in the forks. I had to go hose first, reservoir upright and clamp hole toward fork. Sorry I didn’t get pics of that step. I did the shift without hurting anything. I can tell you it was a tight fit, but go slow and you can do it. Once I had the hose through, the main thing I was concerned about was pinching the hose between the forks and the frame or tank when the bars were at the right locks. As long as the hose is next to the fork, there was no binding or pinching. This was accomplished later by zip tying the hose to the wires. If you use Zip ties, do not pull them too tight, don't want them hurting the brake hose. Just enough to hold it in place worked. (I had to go back and take these pics because the first ones didn’t come out well so these show everything put back together.) The wires and hose for the right side going to the cruise control and the brake had to be routed under the speedo and closer to the handlebar bracket. I thought I might have to pull the tank and find more slack on the wires, but turns out just messing with the routing gave enough play. The throttle cables used to go under the bracket for the windshield, when I was done; they ended up coming through the gap in the speedo housing. I had to bend the guide down to get the cables to stay down some. This shows where the cable goes under the Speedo housing. The left side was much easier. The wires and hoses just ran tighter to the bars but there was plenty of room. When I put on the left grip, I figured I would have to use some grip tape or adhesive. I was positioning the grip in place just to test fit and after it sat for a minute or two, the thing didn’t move, so I just left it. (fortunately, it was in the right place) I figure there must have been enough adhesive residue left on it to hold. Since finishing, I have had the bike out in the sun and heat and it still doesn’t move, so I held off putting anything under it. If it shifts at all, I will put some grip tape under it. You may want to use some to start with, your call. Everything gets mounted back the same way it came off except the bar end weights (more on those at the end). There is no alignment hole for the turn signal housing, just put it the way you had it or whatever is comfortable. You will have to re-align your mirrors because of the height and pullback change, but that is easy. I am sure everyone has done that, but if not, the directions are in the owner’s manual. Before putting the speedo and the headlight back on, I moved the bars lock to lock several times to make sure there was no binding or pinching. Everything was clear, so I put her all back together. Tested the throttle several times as I went, pulling lock to lock to make sure there were no issues. Worked great with no binding. I also tested the bar height to get close. I knew I would have to adjust them after riding and I was right. I had them too high to start so I just pull the speedo back off, loosened the clamps a little and pulled them down. Just make sure they don’t hit your legs at the locks. Last step was to reset the throttle play by tightening up the cable nut and then setting the lock nut. After everything was back on, I had to wait until the next morning to test ride. Between the late hour and having consumed several Guinness drafts during the change, I opted to wait until morning. My buddy that was helping me told me when we were done that we should have got picture of the arm position with the stock bars and then with the Flanders. Of course, we didn’t think of this until after the Flanders bar was on. Oh well, not putting the stock one back on for that. I can tell you that these bars are incredible. It is so much nicer to have that extra pull back, has to be one of the best mods next to the air horns. Not sure if I notice the height change as much, but there are more options for positions overall. Here is what you can expect to see when the project is done. (Ignore the man in the mirror, he is insignificant) ======================================================================== THE STOCK BAR ENDS As promised, here is my idea for keeping the stock bar end weights. Not sure if I should have put this in a separate thread, but here it is. I have read where several people changed to the ISO grips with the Flanders handle bars, but I really like the stock grips and weights, and I don’t like the stiletto bar ends that go with the ISO grips, so I had to figure out how to put the stock weights back on. I read Freebird’s tech article on switching the stock bar end weight holders, but when I took the grips off, there were no tack welds to be found. I think they may be pressed in. I pulled on them, put a bolt in and hit it with a hammer and the things won’t budge. So that solution wasn’t going to work. I may try more later on, but I don’t want to hurt the stock bars as I plan on selling them at a later date. Here is my fix for keeping the stock bar ends. It was a little different, but it worked. I figure they need some rubber so they are flexible and absorb the vibration so I came up with this plan. I went to the hardware store and picked up a 1/4x4” bolt, ¼” flat washer and matching nut. Also picked up a nylon spacer, 1” long, 1/2“ OD and .257” ID. They are in the bins at Home Depot in the bolt isle. I cut the spacer in half with a hack saw at a heavy angle so it looked like this: Then I ran the bolt through the weight and the spacer, putting a washer in between the spacer and the nut on the end. The theory being that if the spacer is pulled together, it will expand as I tightened the bolt. Next I covered the spacer with a strip of old inner tube I had lying around (kind of a pack rat). I wrapped it until it was the same diameter as the inside of the handle bars, about 7/8”. I had to keep test fitting and cutting back on the amount of tubing until it was snug inside the bar. The final layer was a short piece of grip tape (from changing my golf club grips, again, I am a packrat). Make sure the first layer of rubber hits the nut to keep it from moving. I could have glued the nut to the spacer, but this worked too. I ended up with the tape because I found the rubber would slip a little while trying to tighten the end down. Now it’s ready to fit into the bar. Before putting it in the last time with the tape, I put a light layer of lighter fluid on the tape. This allowed the rubber and tape to slip into the hole and evaporates pretty fast. After it set for a minute to let the lighter fluid evaporate, I twisted the bar end clockwise and it snugged right up. I tugged a couple of times and it held. It took several attempts to get it right, including pushing rubber into the throttle, and having to thump the left one with a rubber mallet to seat it, but with a little patience, it worked. I have ridden the bike several times since I did this and the bar ends are just as tight as when I started. I was a little worried about losing one, but it seems to be holding. If this changes and one pops out, you folks will be the first to know. I am still going to try and get the stock nuts out of the stock bars, but that is later. Hope this helps some of your folks out. (I can tell you this. I have a new respect for all the contributors who have written articles for the tech library.)

Will this work with the front end lowered? http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=58318&store=&catId=416&productId=p58318&leafCatId=41606 to check the air right now, I have to remove the handle bar. Does this take more room then the regular air valve at the top of the forks?

My 2005 RSMV was involved in a wreck before I bought it. After carefully looking it over I decided to buy it. They did a great job fixing everything that was bent or broken, but I noticed a misalignment of the panels on the Left lower leg protectors. During Christmas vacation I had time to tear into it and see what was going on. The left engine guard/crash bar is slightly tweaked. I might be able to bend it back, but I thought I would post on here to see if anybody would by chance have one they would want to sell? I found a couple on e-bay, but they don't look like they are completely there or in good shape. There was a new one, but it was $260!!

http://www.aftermarketcyclepartsnation.com/Drag-Specialties-RECTANGULAR-TWIN-MARKER-LIGHTS-detail.htm?productId=7724779&catalogId=&searchProducts=2040-0299 Now that I have the rear light bar on the bike I was replacing the bulbs & found the one of the sidemarker crystals has stripped screws so I can't replace that bulb yet. Of course my OCD is driving me nuts that I have a side marker out (even though I don't see it while driving). I want to pick up an extra crystal (this one is also scratched) before I try to extract the screw. I have nightmares of slipping & cracking the lens while using the screw extractor. So Does anyone know who made this light bar & what should I use for keywords on Ebay when looking for a spare. ( I assume they are no longer available). I think I may have found them...Anyone else bought these? http://www.aftermarketcyclepartsnation.com/Drag-Specialties-RECTANGULAR-TWIN-MARKER-LIGHTS-detail.htm?productId=7724779&catalogId=&searchProducts=2040-0299

What diameter are our handlebars? (1 gen ) Also....what Dia. are the "Snaggle studs" ?

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Hi everyone I am looking for a right side front crash bar that the highway peg mounts onto . my bike is a 2004 yamaha midnight venture . I looked on ebay but could not find one . I hit a mean bump and me and the bike took on some road rash . the crash bar took the blont of the damage . Barry:

Have a 07 RSTD. It has the quick release back rest/lugage rack. Anyone every cut the sissy bar section off? Is it solid or hollow tubing?

my handle bars are to low, what do i have to do, to raise them a little?

I recently mounted this led brake/tail/signal light bar that was on sale here in Ontario at Princes Auto for about $20. I liked this bar as it could be separated from the frame that it came in so it fits neatly under my trunk. Was able to avoid drilling holes by using plastic ties around my trunk rack. Mounted the light bar immediately below the trunk, so my helmet holders including locks are still functional. Used wood shims visible in the picture but not visible from behind to keep the light bar hanging straight. Also, I wired the lights by just plugging into my trailer wiring plug.

Anyone have a MKII right handle bar grip end section just laying around. It can be in really bad condition. My wrecked 91 VR right handle bar got bent down vertically so bad that the bike is unmoveable. I just need one so I can move the wrecked VR in and out of the garage when needed. I'm not sure but maybe the end I need are interchangeable left or right.

Need side arm mounting brackets not quick release to mount 96 to 01 sissy bar on 2005 RSTD. Any help would be appreciated.

Just received the Signal Dynamics Light Bar and have a wiring question. My RSV already has the LED light/spoiler on the top of the trunk (I think it is an OEM accessory) and I traced the wiring from that light under the seat and up to (or past) the battery. My question is this, I can either strip some insulation on existing wiring under the seat and solder the light bar wiring to it or I could cut the wires and put in a couple spade plugs (and seal things to keep out moisture) to allow easy removal of the trunk if needed. Any advantages to either method? I'm guessing either one would work but want to get the thoughts of those that have a better handle of electrical systems. Thanks!

What size P-clamps do we need for the rstd Kury brand? For the handle bar. Joe

I'm trying to ascertain EXACTLY what the range of my bike is. I feel I am getting lousey MPG since I've gone 79 miles & the gauge is dancing between 1/2 & the bar below it. So I put the petcock in the on position to see how long I can run (leaving me the reserve so I'm not stranded). So when I hit the level where I need to switch to reserve position on the petcock, what will my main LCD gas gauge show? No bars? One bar? What about the red warning light will that turn on when IN reserve? What should I consider the normal range of the 1st Gen in (average) miles? Thank for the input.

I recently bought one to replace my Scorpion full face with which I took a nose dive. Haven't made any major trips but based on some of my few short trips here's my observation: This is supposed to be a heavy helmet but coming from my FF Scorpion I can't tell much difference (yet) The locking mechanism for the modular is metal on metal and seems easy to operate it has a chin wind curtain which does not seem removable. The chin bar is bigger then I am used to, though the instrument cluster still falls above the bar so I do not need to look down. It has a build in sun visor. The vents are great, I can actually feel air flowing over my head from the top vents (chin vent is below the windshield), as long as my face shield is not full open! There is an access panel which can be removed for a bluetooth module/headset. The helmet is noisier then a FF, but I read that going in. shield up it seems comparable to my old FF, but the further down the shield the more noise. So far I have three things which I am not real happy with: there are only three detents in the visor: 1/4, 1/2 and full open. you can not open the shield 3/4 (it really needs one) of the way which would put the bottom of the shield above your line of sight. Both the sunvisor and the shield seem to be thinner than I am used to and they vibrate when riding, and with both visors down(face shield either 1/4 or 1/2) the bottom edge of each shield seems to be interfering somewhat with my view of the instrument cluster because 1. it's there and 2 due to the vibration. I bought it at MC superstore on closeout in my size for $169. Overall I am not dissatisfied with it though I would argue that my FF fit me better. FWIW

Just spent over $250 for my light bar and lights and saw this on ebay today, doesn't include the lights but those are cheap......somebody is going to get a deal! http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Passing-lamp-bar-with-hardware-only-/160832227079?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ARoyal+Star|Submodel%3AVenture&hash=item2572590707&vxp=mtr

Being that my left hand/wrist has pins and screws that it will be months before I know how much of it I will regain of it, with massive theropy. It is virtually use less. My right ribs and collar bone broken in several places, my right fingers and arm gets really sore and tired. So when you come accross any 1st Gen that could support me justifing a case to receiving more than NADA $5095. closer to $5750.00 please post here. My 91 VR had 9200 miles and was beautiful. When I get home I will continue. 1) finish the patch order 2) work the thumb switch order 3) work the side cover panel rail bar. 4) turn buckle accessory cross bar. 5) Introduce a new 1st Gen Patch. Thanks in advance Brian

Being that my left hand/wrist has pins and screws that it will be months before I know how much of it I will regain of it, with massive theropy. It is virtually use less. My right ribs and collar bone broken in several places, my right fingers and arm gets really sore and tired. So when you come accross any 1st Gen that could support me justifing a case to receiving more than NADA $5095. please post here, When I get home I will continue. 1) finish the patch order 2) work the thumb switch order 3) work the side cover panel rail bar. 4) turn buckle accessory cross bar. 5) Introduce a new 1st Gen Patch. Thanks in advance Brian

I want to move my handle bars back a little. After my first "long distance" ride to MD I came to the conclusion that the pain in my shoulders was due to reaching forward to grip the bars. Si I took off the ignition switch cover and removed the big nuts and moved each bar back 1 spline. Due to the rake angle this also lowered the grips to the point that they were hitting the battery/air cleaner cover. So I loosened the upper bar nuts and raised the grip by 1 spline. this got them back to their original height. I have been riding it this way for a week now to try to get used to the new feel but I just don't like the new feel either. I do like the for/aft position as I can now utilize the backrest to actually support my back better since I am not leaning forward. When the bars came back it also moved them a lot closer together and angled them back more. This combined with having to raise the grips for clearance puts the grips an an angle that causes a significant outward bend in my wrists that is uncomfortable. Also with the grips closer together I am no longer pushing into the curves but more of a pulling the bars sideways type of feel. This makes the bike feel very unsteady at low speed and I do not feel like I have solid control at high speed. I was thinking of getting out the hot wrench to re-bend the bars to get back to the correct ergonomic angle for my wrists. and end up closer to having the effect of the bars just being moved straight back and not closer together. Before I attack it with the torch I want to acquire a spare set of bars, JUST in case. Or does anyone have any other ideas to just move the bars straight back without messing up everything else? While searching, I did find someone that was going to make a set of 1st gen bar backs. I thought of that but I have no way to make an internal and external spline to mount the bars to.

Has anyone got one of these or seen one on a bike? I'm thinking about one for Fathers Day. Thanks for all the great help. http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-7-Color-Front-Grill-LED-Light-Bar-Knight-Rider-Style-Strip-Kit-and-Remote?item=190685030926&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9142756872837628597

OK, here's my latest invention on how I plan to mount up to 3 accessories on the Handle Bar Accessory Turn Buckle Bar. Now that’s a mouthful. Each End is a 17 mm opening that fits over each 17 mm nut. First You turn the turn buckle to draw the ends in. You slide the left end in over the 17mm nut. Then slide the right end into the opening You grab the Right End then you turn the center of the turn buckle down. As the right end buts up against the 17 mm nut you twist the right end to fit over the 17 mm nut as you continue to turn the turn buckle. The two ends will extend out putting pressure onto the handle bars. The bar is milled at 7/8 inch. I will be putting the least strength lock tight on the turn buckle threads. The 17 mm openings on each end will be slghtly tapered so to make a real tight fit. I plan to mount my GPS, Ipod, Cell Phone.

My 09 tour deluxe head light needs to be supported on the bottom, to the light bar to prevent shaking. I ordered the light bar [ part # STR-4NK35-10-01] and [sealed beam lamps [#STR-4NK35-10-00]. My question is which mounting hardware do i need,i can't find the right part # for a 09 tour deluxe. All i could find is a # for 06 and older. P.S. My 09 has the quick release windshield, if that makes a differance.

Where the Black Plug goes into the hole to cover the 17 mm nut is. Could 1st Gen owners measure the widest open distance to the nearest 1/8 from left handle bar to right handle bar.. The widest opening would be at the top of the oval opening. And specify if MKI or MKII. Thank You.

Does anyone know if the 2nd Gen Venture's Handle Bar has changed since the introduction of the 2nd Gen Ventures. I have been asked by a couple of 2nd Gen owners if I could adapt the 1st Gen Accessory Mount Turn Buckle Bar for the 2nd Gen Ventures, and possibly for some of the other bikes in this group. I got to looking at the 2nd Gen Handle Bars and it seems like a very simple modification. If there has been no changes then a turn buckle probably would not even be needed. It would be helpful to know if the 2nd Gen Venture Handle Bar has changed or stayed the same. I've including a few pictures of what was made for the 1st Gen. Obviously the ends will need to be modified to accomodiate the 2nd Gen's Bars, but looking at it, looks very much do able. If you are a 2nd Gen owner and would be interested (non committal) in getting in on a group buy after the mods are complete, please indicate so on this thread. This will help me determine if making a prototype is worth the effort. Also if you are an owner of another bike an would also be interested one for your bike, please indicate the bike model and year. Your response would be greatly appreciated.