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Evening Everybody: New to the group and have owned my 2008 venture for a year or so and put about 12000 miles on it. I have the Whine coming from the clutch basket. It is not real bad and I was thinking about modifing the the stock exhaust system by removing the cone from the end of the exhaust and putting some holes in the last baffle. Has anybody done this or heard of the results of doing this. IE: gas mileage, engine performance ect....The hope is to make the pipes loader so I can't hear the whining from the clutch. Any information would be really appreciated. Thanks
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For anyone who followed the thread, my 87 was making some crazy exhaust noise that caused me to remove and inspect the collector, the mufflers and the pipes several times. The issue was resolved when I replaced a seemingly healthy collector. I took the problem collector and cut it apart to see what was inside and what caused the problem. Lemme tell ya. A healthy collector would be very tough to get apart without destroying it. Using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I first cut along the perimeter of the bottom side hoping to peel away the skin with no luck. I was trying not to destroy it in the process, so I flipped it over and cut around the perimeter of the top, and although I had to cut through some of the perforated interior screen, I was able to get it apart mostly intact. This was only possible because of what ended up being the problem, which was that the two welds that hold the bottom panel to the one baffle on the inside were broken. This must have been causing the loud sound and the rattle that I had. I ended up re-welding the perforated screen anywhere that it had been pulled out during dis assembly. I then drilled 4 holes in the bottom panel where it contacted the baffle so that I could weld the baffle back on once I put it back together. I then welded the bottom panel that I'd cut back in place, then put the top back on, held it in place with a C clamp and welded it back on. I then flipped it over and welded the baffle to the bottom panel through the holes I drilled earlier. I think the takeaway is that if you are getting these crazy sounds, it'd be worth it to run 3 sheet metal screws through the bottom panel into the baffle, in line with the 2 existing spot welds, one in the middle, and one forward of the front weld and aft of the rear weld. If that cures the problem, you at least know what the problem is, and can opt to leave the screws in and see how long it lasts, or pull the collector, drill a few holes like I did and weld the baffle back to the bottom panel without taking the thing apart. In any case, I've welded mine and would be comfortable putting back on the bike, expecting no further issues. If anyone else has this problem and can get their collector to me, I'd be happy to weld the baffle back in for them. Should be pretty easy now that I know what to do.
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For anyone who followed the thread, my 87 was making some crazy exhaust noise that caused me to remove and inspect the collector, the mufflers and the pipes several times. The issue was resolved when I replaced a seemingly healthy collector. I took the problem collector and cut it apart to see what was inside and what caused the problem. Lemme tell ya. A healthy collector would be very tough to get apart without destroying it. Using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, I first cut along the perimeter of the bottom side hoping to peel away the skin with no luck. I was trying not to destroy it in the process, so I flipped it over and cut around the perimeter of the top, and although I had to cut through some of the perforated interior screen, I was able to get it apart mostly intact. This was only possible because of what ended up being the problem, which was that the two welds that hold the bottom panel to the one baffle on the inside were broken. This must have been causing the loud sound and the rattle that I had. I ended up re-welding the perforated screen anywhere that it had been pulled out during dis assembly. I then drilled 4 holes in the bottom panel where it contacted the baffle so that I could weld the baffle back on once I put it back together. I then welded the bottom panel that I'd cut back in place, then put the top back on, held it in place with a C clamp and welded it back on. I then flipped it over and welded the baffle to the bottom panel through the holes I drilled earlier. I think the takeaway is that if you are getting these crazy sounds, it'd be worth it to run 3 sheet metal screws through the bottom panel into the baffle, in line with the 2 existing spot welds, one in the middle, and one forward of the front weld and aft of the rear weld. If that cures the problem, you at least know what the problem is, and can opt to leave the screws in and see how long it lasts, or pull the collector, drill a few holes like I did and weld the baffle back to the bottom panel without taking the thing apart. In any case, I've welded mine and would be comfortable putting back on the bike, expecting no further issues. If anyone else has this problem and can get their collector to me, I'd be happy to weld the baffle back in for them. Should be pretty easy now that I know what to do.
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I ran across a guy while looking for exhaust help on my Roadglide. I had a unique setup and had a baffle question. Anyway this guy helped me out in a big way. While talking I mentioned that I had a Rstd and that the Yammie guys are always looking for slip ons of one sort or another. I asked him if he could design a baffle set that would fit the stock mufflers. He said he thought he could, and of course he wondered how much interest there would be. I figured that there may be quite a bit. So I thought I'd throw this out there to see if there is any interest. Rather than give his name out or have a business come on here and solicit, I figured this would be the best way to find out. Might be a help to the Yammie in the aftermarket business.....
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I am having a very noticeable rattle under the bike and I am trying to determine if it is a loose baffle. I have another collector that I had a sleeve welded on where one of the pipe connections had broke off and when I look into the muffler tube hole I can see what looks like a baffle. When I stick a foot long rod in and peck on the baffle, it is solid. When I pulled the right muffler off, where the knock seems loudest, and did the same thing on the collector on the bike, it also seems to be mounted solid. It there another baffle in there that I am not seeing or feeling that could be loose? RandyA -
I want 1st phase only. Do I drill half inch holes around front baffle? thanks Richard
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(Ring) Them: Hello, @#$#$% Honda, how may I direct your call? Me: Parts department please. Them: Parts. Me: Yes, I’m traveling through and lost an exhaust baffle. I was hoping you had a two inch exhaust baffle in stock. Them: What kind of bike do you have? Me: It’s a 2001 Honda, 1100 Shadow. But it has after-market Cobra exhaust system on it. Them: No. The 1100 Shadow has an inch and three quarters exhaust. That is the size baffle you need. Me: Sorry, but I measured my pipe and it is definitely two inch. It was installed by the previous owner. Them: A two inch exhaust won’t fit on a Shadow! Me: Don’t know what to tell you, but that is what I have. Do you have a two inch baffle in stock? Them: What model number Cobra pipes do you have? Me: (exasperated) I don’t know, they were installed by the previous owner. The baffle doesn’t have to be from Cobra, any two inch baffle will work for me. Them: I have to have the model number to look it up. Me: Do you have ANY baffles in stock? Them: No, we don’t carry exhaust parts in stock, but we can order them and have them for you in about a week. Me: Do you remember I said I was traveling and just passing through? Them: But if you really need it…. Me: Never mind (click) (Ring) Them: Hello, @#$%#@ Harley Davison, how may I direct your call? Me: Parts department please. Them: Parts. Me: Yes, I’m traveling through town and have lost one of my exhaust baffles. Do you happen to have a two inch exhaust baffle in stock? Them: What kind of bike do you have? Me: I have two inch, after market, Cobra pipes. But any brand of baffle will work for me. It doesn’t have to be Cobra. Them: Let’s see here, I show I have a couple baffles in stock, but they are not Cobras. Me: That’s great!! I don’t care about the brand. They are two inch, right? Them: Well… these are inch and three quarters. That is a close as I can get. Me: That’s good but I need two inch. Them: What kind of bike is this going on? Me: Well….it’s a 2001 Honda Shadow, but it has the two inch Cobra exhaust installed. Them: We don’t sell Honda parts. You better call them. You want their number? Me: Never mind (click).
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Ok folks this is my first "official post" and I am new to the VR so I hope my question isn't too far in left field. Keep in mind I am a child of the fuel injection generation so carbs are a balck art to me. I can tune the pants of a fuel injected vehicle, case in point my 500 HP Vette, but carbs befuddle me. So my question: Recently I put some holes ( about 8 x 3/8 inch) in the stock air box and noticed a little improvement. Last weekend I decided I needed a little more agressive sound so I cut-off the end of the muffler and removed the end baffle. The inner baffle is still intact and I love the new sound. So is it possible with some loss of restriction on the airbox and muffler side that I need to put bigger jets in the carbs? The bike is purring like a kitten when cruising down the road, no pops or back fires and much better acceleration but I also want it to last and really don't want to melt down valves or pistons due to an over lean condition. My first Touring bike and I love it. Thanks
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***Sound Clips added at the bottom this post*** Hi Everyone! So I spent my time going through the many available exhaust options only to decide on a nice pair of fishtail mufflers. Yep, that's the look I want. I found the infamous youtube video of the Brazilian guy who put them on his RSTD. I thought, boy those sound really good! And wow they are totally affordable at $88.99 each. I figured that if I didn't like them its not much of a loss. So I whipped out my card again and made the purchase on JC Whitney. here. *** I had actually first made my order with Jireh Cycles, as the same mufflers are $59.95. here. However after a week of no order being shipped, I called them up to find out what was going on, politely. They told me that they are on back order, rudely. I asked when they might get them in stock? The guy actually told me "there's no way to know that, probably a while!" I told him that I would like to cancel my order immediately, politely. I won't be buying through them again. Well these awesome looking mufflers came in a week later (shipping to Canada takes a while getting through customs) and I couldn't wait to install them on my 05 RSTD. Literally I was trying to get through the garage door to the bike while opening the box with my keys, all at the same time. Is there any better feeling? I installed the new fishtails in about an hour or so and I was smiling! Oh it looks so good. But when I took off for the day, my smile quickly changed to a worried look. Geez, these are LOUD! I heard from previous posts that they where loud before, but I thought to myself that they probably aren't that bad. Well they are bad. Getting going in 1st is like a neighborhood wide alarm. I had to pass two cops on my way to the highway and the only way I felt comfortable getting by them was riding in 4th going 30km/h (19mph)!! Maybe I'm a wuss, but I ain't no fool. However, they did provide me with much enjoyment on the highway, bringing back my smile for a short-while. Honestly, sounds like a nascar. But I realized that most of the cars that were behind me were staying WELL back from me, probably out of annoyance, and my ears had started to go all fuzzy from the sharp sound. So I rode home and said, that was interesting, time to fix it! I was looking up all sorts of baffles online but I thought that they were mighty expensive for tubes of steel and I can definitely make something for nothing here! So I started the process by knocking out the existing baffle. There is one small tack weld holding the stock baffle in place. You can see it in the fishtail end of the muffler. I ground the weld down and I just took a long metal bar, inserted it into the inlet of the muffler until it rested on the back of the stock baffle and started hammering. Out they came. ***I didn't remember to take pictures during the building process because I was... in the groove... Next time... So instead, to help illustrate, I created some 3D cad models to help explain. Just click on the photos to see a zoomed up version with some helpful notes. http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/fishtail%20mufflers%20with%20custom%20made%20baffle/mufflerwitholdbaffle.jpg?t=1276018046 Then I measured up the old stock baffle to determine its outer diameter, 1.75". I then went to the local auto store and bough some exhaust tubing. The only stuff they had in stock was 18" long by 1.75" diameter with a tapered end. I bought three of them for a total of $10. I then drilled many many holes along the exhaust pipe (refer to pictures) and spent a good while cleaning the burrs out of the holes. From there I took a washer, welded on some support bars to them and welded that to the end of the tapered section of the exhaust tube. In the end I has some handsome looking full length, straight through baffles. http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/fishtail%20mufflers%20with%20custom%20made%20baffle/newbaffleassembly.jpg?t=1276018127 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/fishtail%20mufflers%20with%20custom%20made%20baffle/newbafflesectionview.jpg?t=1276018177 Then, I slide the baffle half way into the muffler and began to pack in pieces of fibreglass insulation with a thin metal rod. I worked my way to filling most of the muffler with fibreglass before I slide the baffle right into its final position. I just put a tack weld in place to hold the baffle in, but you can definitely install a set screw to make it easier to remove in the future. I was lazy, so I "set it and forget it". http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/fishtail%20mufflers%20with%20custom%20made%20baffle/mufflerwithnewbaffle.jpg?t=1276018234 Installed the new muffler on to the headers and fired up the bike. Ahhh, perfect! The sound level is at a much more controlled level, lets say less than medium loud. I have no fear of firing my bike up in the morning and waking the neighborhood, no fear of passing a cop thinking I might get a ticket, no funny looks from pedestrians that hate being irritated by overly loud exhausts. The new baffles make the mufflers sound meaty, deeper, less harsh, and pleasant to the ears. I can drive it fairly quiet for the neighborhood sneak out, and can also get it pretty loud when you lay on it - best of both worlds. I am a very happy camper now. One other note for installing the muffler on the bike - I made my own brackets for holding the mufflers in place by using some scrap metal. I welded my bracket to the muffler near half way, and bolted it to the where the stock muffler is hung from. Now you don't necessarily need to do this as the mufflers seemed to hold on just fine with the clamp, but I would definitely recommend making some sort of bracket! These fishtails get much heavier with the new baffles and packing and I would have hated to see one of them get loose and go flying. I will take some audio recordings of the exhaust as it is now. I never took the recordings of the original. If you want to hear what that is like, just take off your stock mufflers and listen to what the headers sound like on there own. ***This is just an experimental baffle design, and I'm sure there is a better way/better design. But this design works quite well and I'm very happy with it. http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8547.jpg?t=1276018581 ...Sound Clips... These might take a moment to load, patience may be required. Start up and Idling Reving Drive By's Neighborhood Sneak-out Normal Acceleration Highway Acceleration -
i've read lots of posts on here about buying expensive pipes , only to be disappointed with them being too loud...and now having to sell, trade ,swap, buy...and be disappointed again.....i did the same thing...with my roadhouse pipes but i found a $5 solution to the problem that might work for others here , if you have removable baffles...........i haven't seen it mentioned here.............aside from having the baffles wrapped.....buy two stainless steel scrub pads and put one in the front of the baffle....to keep the pad from being blown out...i used a vise to squeeze a section of the baffle down....i didn't insert the baffle horizontally in the vise, but as vertical as i could get it...and pretty much in the middle.....this might do the trick for you and save the $300 - $500 pipes you just bought.....worth a try anyway....
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motor hesitates after tire change
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I have an 84 Venture and removed both wheels to have new tires put on. I got the instructions on this website and they were great. When I removed the right muffler, a small piece of baffle came out of the exhaust pipe. It looked like a bent piece of kitchen sink drain. I did not put it back in. After reassembilng my bike I test rode it and things were fine. The next day I filled it up with gas and road 250 miles. About 3 miles out the motor began to hesitate when I increased the throttle at low rpms. I reinstalled the little piece of baffle and it ran the same. I took off the other muffler and their was no piece of baffle. Needless to say I am baffled. Why is it running poorly? -
I have had these mufflers on for 3 seasons and would like to repack the fiberglass in them, assuming there is some. I tried to pull the baffle out the back of the muffler, it will turn but it will only come so far. Anyone had the same problem? -
I have recently purchased the harley mufflers to complete the exhaust mod for my RSV. From the posts I have seen, the baffle drill out is to be done with a 1 1/8" hole saw. My question is, is this the correct size? The pipe coming from the center of the muffler is closer to 1 5/8"... I also notice looking down the pipe from the tail end, that one pipe has a "wavey" baffle that does not complete a solid plate, while the other muffler has an area that looks like 4 parts coming together. Can someone help clue me in here so that i perform this correctly.. I am also curious if there are any changes that will need to be made to the carbs...
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Like by tomorrow a.m. The shop confirmed I got a loose baffle in my collector. haven't been able to ride it in three weeks and am getting antsy. So please tell me: Aside from the rattle, will I do further damage by riding with it loose? Can You remove a loose baffle without removing the collector? Can you eliminate the collector altogether? They still have it on the lift and if I let them know in the a.m. whether to tackle it, they might actually be able to get me back on the road before the weekend. Thanks a milion!
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:bang head:Please read my thread a few down from here if you haven't. I received a lot of great advice on the whole issue. I followed the directions on one of the links I received and this is where I'm at... This on new 07 RSTD. Started by taking plasma cutter and cut around the baffle that is connected to the cone. Cone then was loose, and came out without too much work. Then cut through the baffle plate that the baffle is also attached to. So now from the links I received here, one writer said all you have to do is wiggle, twist, and pull, and the baffle should slide out... I don't know if my pipes are slightly different because it is an 07 RSTD vs. other years, or vs. the Ventures(?) but the tack weld that should twist apart on my baffle about 6-8 inches further in is about 1/2 an inch long. We first tried to wiggle, twist, and pull.... didn't move whatsoever. Next welded metal attachment to the baffle we were trying to remove, connected big slide hammer to attachment, pounded away, and MAYBE moved it out an 1/8 to 1/4 inch. Problem with this method is that the muffler is off the bike and I had to hold it while my friend did the slide hammer. I couldn't hold it well enough. Then we detached slide hammer assembly from baffle and welded 1 inch diameter rod directly in baffle we wanted out. I then reattached muffler to bike thinking that this would hold pipe in place. On end of the metal rod that was now sticking 6 inches out of baffle, I put big pipe wrench on to do twisting motion and whole muffler moved instead of 1/2 inch tack welded baffle. Then realized muffler mounting tab had rubber grommets in it. Removed those and temporarily rebolted thinking it would be rigid. Tried to twist w/ pipe wrench again and will bend brackets and baffle stays stationary. I am so frustrated I'm ready to scream. If anybody has suggestions, they would all be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU, Blake - royal rider:bang head: -
Yesterday I finally got around to re-packing my Bub mufflers. When I did the HD fishtail mod I found that all of the original packing had long gone and with the new tips there was now a 1/4" gap all around the rear baffle plate. I found this packing on e-bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/20-x-38-MOTORCYCLE-EXHAUST-MUFFLER-PACKING-WRAP_W0QQitemZ140148216528QQihZ004QQcategoryZ35573QQcmdZViewItem I pulled the baffles back out and I was able to use 1/2 of a sheet and get about 3 wraps on each baffle. I used some high heat RTV silicone to fill the gap left around the rear baffle plate. The muffs now have a deeper tone and are a lot quieter when cruising but still sound good when getting on the throttle. Here's a link to the post about the HD fishtail install. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=114428#post114428
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VR-Exhaust Combiner Chamber Repair A.K.A. Fixing the Rattle in The Baffle by Robert Trim My second 1987 Yamaha Venture Royale Exhaust baffle began the 'rattle samba' a short time back. The devil is in the details and a picture is worth a thousand.... well you get the drift. Here's a way I did the surgery 1- You have to drop the entire exhaust system. a- remove mufflers on both sides first. 2 bolts on the rear of the chamber and 2 bolts half way down the mufflers accessible through the passenger's foot rest supports. b- remove the side panels, both sides. c- remove the lower fairing legs, both sides. The lower air dam and plastic cross brace. d- remove allen bolts holding headers to front cylinders. e- loosen 2 bolts in the clamps holding the combiner chamber to the front pipes. f- There are FOUR attach points holding the exhaust collector box to the bike. The TWO front attach are released by removing two 12mm NUTS located on a bracket near the front of the collector box which hold it to the bottom of the engine case. The TWO rear attach points are released by removing two 12mm BOLTS for the exhaust clamps at the bottom end of the rear headers; these are best removed by using a 10" socket extension angled up at a 45 degree angle on either side of the center stand. g- now the fun part... the chamber is not going to come easy. Use a pry bar on either side and work it lose from the rear headers. You will need to work the front headers lose and free so the chamber can drop down. 2- Cut open the chamber. 3- Remove needed baffle screen to get at the baffle. 4- Remove the baffle. 5- Bend opening shut. 6- Have someone weld it shut. It's stainless steel and needs someone with experience. 7- reinstall in reverse order. Make sure you put the chamber in place WITH the front headers attached. An extra set of hands is vital at this point. Here's some of those thousand word photos.... http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/StrippedSideSm.jpg Side plastic, mufflers and front headers off. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/LowerSectionSm.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BafUpperBolts.jpg It's easier to remove the parts with the bike on the center stand until you get to the rear header clamps. Put it on the side stand, use a mirror and drop light on the floor and look up between the frame tube and slightly forward. About the angle of the arrow you see above. The right side is easier to fine than the left so start with that one first. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/MirrorSm.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/ScreenIn.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/CutoffToolSm.jpg The chamber is on it's back and this is 2 steps into the opening process. I used a cutoff tool to cut it open. WARNING... USE safety glasses and leather gloves when using the cutter. The above photo shows the left baffle liner screen already cut out and you can see the down pipe from the rear header connections. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BentUp.jpg Bend it open ONLY as far as you need to gain access to the baffle. I needed it 90 degrees open to get the cutoff tool in. If your baffle is flopping fairly freely (very common), open a little and grab with vice grips, twist and pull hard. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/SideOpen.jpg Here both screens are cut out. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/ECUbaffleSm.jpg My baffle had it's welds in place but was stress fractured along the bottom. I simply used the cutter to finish the break. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BaffleOut.jpg The rest of the bracket is fine so I leave it. It's spot welded top, bottom and in the front. With the chamber now open for air flow, this now exactly like the crossover pipes put between headers of a dual exhaust system on a car. The VR will now breath much easier. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/DrillEndCut.jpg Carefully fold the flap back and work it as straight and as close to original placement as possible. Use a drill bit to create a termination hole at the end of each cut. Stainless will crack from any sharp point even after it is welded. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/ReadyForWeldSm.jpg Ready for welding. A good welder will suggest that after welding the seam, a second layer of stainless be added over the seam. This will pretty much assure that the weld will outlast the bike. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/CrackedBracket.jpg It is important to check for other cracks. This is the chamber mounting bracket on the top of the chamber. I did not see this until I gave it a good cleaning. This is a common problem. Get it welded as well. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BigWeld.jpg Big seam welded to perfection by the students at Salt Lake Community College's welding program. Good people to know. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/BracketWeld.jpg Bracket crack all fixed. http://www.venturerider.org/baffle/ChamberReady.jpg Ready to go back in place. It's better to approach this from the right side of the bike. Slip the chamber back on the rear header down pipes and thread the bracket bolts on a few turns. Install the front headers into the chamber front inlets. This is a process of seating the pipes into the chamber and, at the same time, making sure the front header seats align flush. Soon as you get it dialed in, put the alan nuts on the front headers to hold them in place. Tighten the chamber bracket nuts. Then tighten the clamps to the front headers, then the header-to-head alan nuts. These are kind of a bear because there is a frame cross brace just 'almost' out of the way. You need a 5/16" longer length alan wrench to get it started. Install the mufflers. Replace the plastic parts and you're good to go. One additional tweak it to drill out the 2 baffles in the mufflers. You'll need a 1/2" drill bit welded to an 18" rod. Punch a few holes in the baffle on each end of the muffler for more air flow. Hope this helps if you need to do baffle surgery.
