Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'axle'.
-
I bought a set of roto covers for my MKII a while back on craigslist, but it did not include the spacer. I thought that my machniest buddy could make a new spacer for me using the origional as a sample. I want to not shorten the OEM spacer incase I want to remover the roto covers for some reason, then I'll need the origional spacer. He can make one out of aluminum. My question is, would making one out of aluminum be ok. I would think it would be but I thougth I better ask. Another question: I need to remove the front axle, so I can get the spacer out. I see the axle nut head. But I also see an allen head screw the goes in at a 90 degree to the axle. Do I need to remove the allen head screw before I attempt to remove the front axle? Or maybe better yet, does anyone have an extra front axle spacer opposite side of the speedometer. for a 91 MKII? It be a lot easier to machine shorten a spare OEM spacer the width of 2 roto plates than to make a new complete spacer. -
Well, As you know from reading my other thread, I had a freakin monster of a time getting my front axle to break lose once I took the pinch bolt out. I worked with it for about an our at night, and then got on it the next morning. I had to grunt, holler, and pull with all my 300lbs of weight to finally get it to break lose. As I'm finding out from some of you and a few friends locally, once I took the pinch bolt out, it shouldn't have been that hard. Well, now I'm realizing why there was a problem. When I got the axle out, I had noticed the threads had what looked like some sort of maybe thread locker stuff on it, and they also had what I now realize was some thread trash on them. At that time, I just cleaned them up real good, and took a brush to them and got them shiny looking again. I wasn't even thinking to look at the threads inside the fork tube. Well, today I got my new tire on the rim, and started back remounting the wheel on the fork tubes. When I got the axle snug, I put my torque wrench on it, set to 56 ftlbs, and I didn't turn it hardly any and I felt the threads get weak. The torque wrench hadn't even got to the point of clicking yet. I stopped instantly and realized what I had felt. I backed the axle back out, and looked inside the fork tube and confirmed what my suspicions were. The threads were in pretty ruff shape and had been semi stripped. I now realize that the last time I had the tire replaced at the bike shop, they must've overtightend and partially stripped it, so they then put a thread locker on it to make it stay in place. That had to be why it took an act of God to get it to break loose. So, I'm in a predicament. I need suggestions for next steps. Do I have to buy a new fork tube? Has anyone had to go through this and maybe fixed it another way? If I do have to buy a new fork tube, does anyone have one that I could buy cheap? etc, etc, etc. The suckish thing is, the shop that I had the work done at, went out of business, then was bought and opened by new owners. So, there's no way I can get retribution. Need help, please. -
Decided to take my front wheel of myself this time to take it to a bike shop to have a tire mounted on it. Usually I just have the shop do the whole job. So, my question is, what the heck do I have to do to get the axle out? I loosened the allen head pinch bolt, but I can't get the axle to break lose. I'm using a 22mm socket with a medium size breaker bar. Makes me wonder if I should get out the ole impact wrench. This axle is a left hand thread, right? Thanks for suggestions, Lynn
-
Hey guys, Could use a little input here... When I purchased a new set of tires for my 06 RSMV, I took them and the bike to a local metric dealer to be installed. (BTW, this will be the last time. I went to Harbor Freight and bought a few tools and I will do them myself on both of my bikes from now on). Anyway, a few days into my recent road trip, I noticed a faint sound coming from the rear wheel which would come and go. I also had the clicking sound so many of you have described from the rear end. It was an intermittent issue, and went away for the remainder of the trip. When I got back I went on this wonderful forum, and realized my problem had all the earmarkings of the dread "Creaking wheel syndrome". So I printed up the TSB and took the bike back to the stealer that did the tire change, explained the problem, the likely remedy, and asked them to fix it. Result, they kept the bike for 4 days and couldn't fix it. The service manager said "you know more about it than we do". But at least he didn't try to charge me. Anyway, took the bike home and put it up on the lift yesterday, removed the mufflers and saddlebags and brake caliper, etc. Started to remove the rear axle, which was tight as @#ll! After getting the axle out about an inch, I noticed that the axle spacer (the one between the swingarm and the caliper mounting bracket) was NOT on the axle. Oh, and I forgot to mention, they changed the final gear oil at the dealer to try to cure the noise and said it had metal shavings in it. I am sure the spacer was on the axle when I brought the bike to them because this was the first tire change. I've only had the bike since last October and it only had 4000 miles on it when I bought it. The guy I got it from was not exactly a stickler about maintenance so I really doubt he ever had the axle out, so it should have still been on there when I took it in. So guys, I guess I'm looking for some ammo to go back to the dealer with. What are potential problems that can be caused by leaving the spacer off? It seems to me that without the spacer things would either be too loose, or too tight back there, either of which could wreak havoc with the rear end of these bikes! Any input would be appreciated! Ride Safe, 1/2crazed
-
I'm uncertain if the throttle wire should go on the outside or inside of this axle. [ATTACH]69540[/ATTACH]
-
I was looking at my rear axle where is comes through on the right side, and was alarmed that it didn't look right. Is it supposed to be flush? You experts look at the picture and tell me.
-
http://www.classifiedads.com/items_for_sale-ad8184569.htm Is it just me, or does this seem a bit excessive? At first glance I think, COOL! But then I factor in the added weight and rolling resistance of the second axle. The add doesn't state how much weight it will carry, but I imagine if ya need to haul enough to need the second axle, wouldn't you be pushing the limits if the bikes capabilities? Perhaps if you had one of those Boss Hogs with the 350 V8's or a good sized trike, I could see it. I do like the looks of it, and the "cool" factor though. Certainly one of a kind... maybe. Bill
-
I have (access to) a 4x8 tilt bed trailer, It's a bolt together thing and doesn't weigh much. Though I'm currently not in the landscaping business anymore I'm considering dabbling and would need something to carry hand tools, trimmer, blower, maybe even a push mower, etc. With the truck that's no problem, but fuel being what it is and having a full time job I'm wondering if an eight foot long trailer plus tongue would be too long for a bike? I'd have to build a box on it at least 16 inch (preferably 24)high and 24 to 30 inch wide. Depending on how I organize things I could shorten the bed by about a foot. I'm guessing the tongue, measured from the axle, is about 7 feet, so a 4.5 ft wide trailer would still give me the 1.5:1 tongue vs. axle ratio. I know there's folks out there (take that any way you'd like) who pull a coffin for a trailer which theoretically means this should be doable, but I'd still like y'all s opinion.
-
Hi everyone. I know the subject has been mentioned in passing in previous threads but I thought I would go over the situation again but with some photographs this time. As most riders know the removal and fitting of a 2nd Gen. Rear wheel is a real bind so after the last time I refitted the rear wheel to the cost of four stitches to my right hand when the wheel came off the splines and pushed my hand into the side of the rear fender. I thought about a better way and came up with this, I checked on the site too and it is mentioned in passing on another thread. First I raised the bike up to the top of the lift and placed the wheel under the rear fender, I then positioned it and carefully lowered the lift down to a height that I could easily lift the wheel up. I have an old axle (you could use a length of round bar) that fits first into the pumpkin and through to the swing arm. (Left to right through pumpkin) oposite to the proper axle. I had both mufflers removed as I had removed the rear end to clean and grease the swing arm bushes otherwise you would have to remove the left muffler to do it. The axle or bar protrudes from the pumpkin so that the wheel when lifted is placed on it and pushed and slightly rotated to engage the drive splines. It can then be pushed all the way through to fully support the wheel. You can then put the original axle through the swing arm and brake bracket etc from right to left and this will push the other axle out from the left side as you push the axle back in the proper place. I hope this can be of help as it made life so easy and I managed it single handed and still have all my fingers. The job is made a lot simpler. Neil. (Old Miner).
-
I hope there are some trailer experts out there. I don't profess to be any such thing. I need to get a trailer to haul a Polaris Ranger 6X6 that will weigh in at about 2500lbs. What are some thoughts on the proper tailer. Would a single axle with a 2990lb GVWR and a 3500lb axle work for this or should I move up to a tandem axle? Application: Polaris Ranger 6x6 weighing 1410lbs with a 'slide-in' firefighting unit weighing 935lbs, wet. Total combined weight of unit - 2345lbs. Thoughts please...
-
Ok, I've been gathering parts for my R1 upgrade for my '84 for a while. Got the calipers a while back and a set of MKII rotors have been hanging on the wall for a while. I had bought a set of MKII forks during the summer and they were in such bad shape I scrapped them. The PO, before they were listed on eBay had beat the daylights out of the lowers and scarred the upper so bad it destroyed any chance of ever getting a seal to seat again. So this is where I'm confused today. I bought another set of forks off eBay listed as off an '87. The pics looked ok and all the parts seemed to be there. But, when they arrived today I took them down to clean them up and strip them down I noticed they were different from the last set I bought. The anti-dives (electric) mount on the front of the fork, not the side like the MKII pics I have seen from you guys in the past. Then what caught my attention was that there was no cinch bolt on the one side. The outer section is threaded for the axle with the shoulder for the axle to ride on in the inner section. Did I miss something somewhere? I thought the axles were the same of both MKI & MKII. But the AD's on the front threw me. Does the MKI axle thread into the lower or am I going to need a different axle? The flanges for the R1's line up fine. Every thing else looks like it should. So tell me what I am looking at. Mike -
OK, got this noise from the rear like a wheel bearing going down, so I put her on a lift, spin the tire and its got a spot, same place every turn, like a flat spot on bearing. So I pull the axle, then spin the tire and quite as a mouse, so I take the wheel in to the shop and have both side wheel bearing and seals replaced. Came back home put it all back together, SAME THING, with axle in and while riding same noise, axle out no noise. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 2step
-
I'm trying to find out the socket size needed for the rear wheel axle nut on a 2nd gen. In the tech library I read a thread on removing the rear wheel that stated the size was 1 1/6 inch. Is this correct? With the front axle socket being a metric size (22mm) it seems the rear would be metric too. Just wanted to confirm before I go out and purchase the socket.
-
I took my 06 RSV to have the rear shock inspected a couple of weeks ago just before the warranty ran out. I mentioned to the mechanic (who I have come to trust over the years) that after I installed my rear wheel with new tire mounted it seemed like the rear brakes were dragging but I hadn't really paid any attention to it before removing the rear wheel. This first thing he asked me was if I had marked the axle location (referring to rotation) before removing it. I said no I never do. He said that he had a customer one time that complained about a noise after having a tire installed somewhere else out of state. He knows about the pins needing greased, etc. and noticed that the axle was bent so he ordered a new one from Yamaha. When the new one came in it was bent also. So he called Yamaha and they said "Yes, that's the way they are. You need to install the axle and rotate it noting when the wheel spins free or tight and then tighten it at the best place." The mechanic said that did indeed fix the problem and he now always checks and then marks any axle he does in relation to the swingarm so he doesn't have to check it the next time he works on it. I have an appointment this week to have the rear shock replaced and I told him that I want the dragging brakes checked. I intend to ask him what he means by "bent" because we have a machine at work that we use to straigten precision ballscrews for our positioners and I could have it straightened. Has anyone else ever heard of this condition? I didn't think I had ever seen a post about it.
-
I'm going to help a friend intall his rear tire on his 1986 venture, and is there a proper way of install the washer/ spacers on the axle. Does anybody have photo or a diagram. thanks in advance
-
When you guys flip the axle over on the trailer to put it on top of the springs, do you still rest it on the flat part (open channel up) or the round shaft side( open channel side down as in manual on the spring? Weld plates on or just drill the shaft to align the spacing? thanks
-
I am thinking about getting an enclosed trailer for my RSTD. I will want to haul two bikes in it at times both full size with bags. I am looking at a 7x12 single axle I think they will fit. could I go 6x12(cheaper)? If anyone has experience I would appreciate the info. Thanks Reno
-
Hi all, Building a tag along, and noticed that when spinning the wheels, there is a pronounced "wobble" in the wheels. Took the hubs out, re packed bearings, re installed, seated bearings, and still have the wobble. There is no movement in the bearing/hub... Placed a square along the axle with some gap between tore and square.... On rotation, a portion of tire till contact square, and then not. This happens on both sides of the axle, both wheels. Any sugestions. I am in the king of Prussia pa area.
-
Randya started discussing ratios in the following thread. This was regarding some work he is doing to his bike this winter. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?postid=551974#post551974 I thought I would start a new thread along these lines hoping to give a little better understanding to where all those ratio numbers come from. I confuse easily, so here is same info in a different format. All numbers are from the corresponding bikes service manuals. 1st Gen Ratios (From 1986 Service Manual) Primary reduction 87/49 (1.776) Secondary Reduction- Middle Drive 21/27 (0.778) x Final Drive 33/10 (3.300) -- Total Reduction (2.567) 1st 39/15 (2.600) 2nd 39/22 (1.772) 3rd 31/23 (1.347) 4th 31/29 (1.068) 5th 29/32 (0.906) Royal Star Ratios (From 1996 Service Manual) Primary reduction 85/51 (1.666) Secondary Reduction- Middle Drive 21/27 (0.778) x Final Drive 33/10 (3.300) -- Total Reduction (2.567) 1st 39/16 (2.437) 2nd 30/19 (1.578) 3rd 29/25 (1.160) 4th 29/32 (0.906) 5th 21/28 (0.750) RSV Ratios (From 1999 Service Manual) Primary reduction 87/49 (1.776) Secondary Reduction- Middle Drive 21/27 (0.778) x Final Drive 33/10 (3.300) -- Total Reduction (2.567) 1st 43/17 (2.529) 2nd 31/19 (1.632) 3rd 30/25 (1.200) 4th 24/25 (0.960) 5th 22/28 (0.786) 1st Gen VMax Ratios (From 1995 Service Manual) Primary reduction 87/49 (1.776) Secondary Reduction- Middle Drive 21/27 (0.778) x Final Drive 33/9 (3.667) -- Total Reduction (2.851) 1st 43/17 (2.529) 2nd 39/22 (1.772) 3rd 31/23 (1.347) 4th 28/26 (1.076) 5th 26/28 (0.928) The primary gear reduction is between the crankshaft and the clutch pack. The secondary gear reduction is from the middle drive through the rear axle gear case. All of the gear reductions first list the driven gear # of teeth, followed by the drive gear # of teeth, this ratio is then shown last. For a given comparison between the four bikes listed, the higher the ratio number, the more acceleration & low end power the bike will have. Lower numbers translate into higher speed. This is when comparing the same point in the drive train. In the case of the secondary gear reduction, there are 2 sets of gears. 1st is the middle drive set, followed by the rear axle drive set. The secondary gear sets also accomplish the task of taking the engine/transmission rotation and turning it first 90 degrees to attach to the drive shaft, then 90 degrees again to drive the rear wheel. In the case of the Vmax, the power increase that is often discussed in the rear axle gears. These gears have 9 teeth on the drive gear and 33 teeth on the driven gear.The 1st and 2nd Gen Ventures and the Royal Star all have 10 teeth on the drive gear and 33 teeth on the driven gear. The VMax ratio provides for more acceleration and low end power, but sacrifices top end speed. Three bikes, 1st Gen, RSV & VMax have the same primary gear ratio, and middle gear ratio. The difference is in the transmission & rear axle drive ratios. The Royal Star also has a different primary ratio in addition to the transmission & rear axle drive ratios. What this all translates to as it moves through the drive train is shown next. 1st picture shows inside of clutch housing looking up and forward towards the gear on the end of the crankshaft. Only the back quadrant of the gear can be seen. This gear is on the center line of the drive shaft, on right side. This gear mates to the clutch pack seen in next picture. The clutch pack provides a means of interrupting the flow of power to the transmission. The friction discs in the clutch pack are connected to the outer clutch housing, which has the larger gear seen at the bottom of the clutch pack. The steel plates are attached to the inner clutch boss. When the clutch lever is depressed, these two sets of plates allow the motor to rotate, while the transmission is not turning. The shaft that is in the center of the 1st picture is the main axle shaft of the transmission. [ATTACH]53660[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]53661[/ATTACH] The 3rd & 4th pictures are of the transmission assembly. 3rd picture is of a 1st gen main & drive axle assembly. Top is main axle, gears left to right are 5th, 2nd 3rd, 4th, 1st. Bottom is drive axle, gears left to right are Middle Drive gear (Bevel cut, Helical gear), 5th (machined on shaft), 2nd 3rd, 4th, 1st. 4th picture is a cut from the 1st gen VMax service manual showing these in the lower motor case. [ATTACH]53662[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]53663[/ATTACH] 5th picture is of rear axle gear case. Drive shaft attaches on left side and drives another set of bevel cut, helical gears. Drive gear is inside case. 6th picture shows driven ring gear. [ATTACH]53665[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]53664[/ATTACH] Gary
-
With all the talk of building trailers it got my giddyup goin so a question for ya'll. I plan to build a trailer similar to the aluma, the construction of it is going to be pretty straigt forward. My question is about rubber torsion axels. When I calculate where the axle will go I know the 60/40 rule applys but do I center the wheel hub or the rubber flexi part on that line or split the difference? Retarded mind want to know,lol
-
My wife and I are on vacation, and just pulled into my daughter's in Mufreesboro TN.--500 miles more to get home. The last couple of days, I've been hearing strange noises from the rear end and brakes, mostly from the rear end when you decellerate moderately and the rear end is hot. I put in on the center stand and this time (I"ve checked it several times) I felt side to side plaly in the rear wheel. When I pulled the cotter key and tried to tighten the axle (I also loosened the axle cinch bolt) I found it was about 1/2 turn loose. I tightened it and still had the play. I decided to pull the rear wheel and see what's wrong. I can't get the axle to move. I usually just put a phillilps scredriver in the 2 holes on the right side and twist and pull the axle right out. This time I can't budge it by turning it OR hitting it soundly on the left side. I've got the cinch bolt completely out, and I've driven in a wedge to open up the axle clamp. It won't move. I've read here where one guy had the axle worn apart. I'll be mine is started down that path. How can I get it out???? Frank
-
What is the size socket needed for the front axle?
-
I finally finished repairing the plastic on my bike and so it was time to paint. Since I wanted to change the color of the bike I pulled the front tire to get the front fender off. I shot a layer of clear coat to smooth it out before painting a base coat and then it was time to go to work for the night so I left the tire off. After painting everything today I tried to put the front tire back on and... WTF?! The front axle doesn't fit in the the forks any more. It's like the axle bolts are too tight but they are so loose they might as well not be there at all. Any suggestions would be welcome. After all it's a shame to finally get done fixing the bike and be stuck with the front tire off.
-
I had a noise in the rear end and through the tech library I figured out what it was. I had recently changed the rear tire and didn't loosen the bolts on the drive and put the axle in. After doing this and puting it back together I no longer have the noise.
-
I finally found the speedo gear for the front axle and need to replace the old one. Are there any shortcuts? The bearings were replaced last year and I only want to get this different speedo gear in place to see if that fixes my speedometer and cruise problem. Thanks for any help. 1987 VR. Larry
