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Showing results for tags 'assembly'.
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Hi, I pulled my 1996 Rotal Star touring apart a while ago and its finally going back together. During this time i can't remember where the two vent lines for the carby's connect to. The two lines come out the front of the carby assemby and they dont seem to go to the filter box, fuel tank or crankcase. The manual just says to connect them with no photos so that doesn't help. Any advise, photos etc will help as i'm stumped by this.
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I need to fix the turn signal switch and check the contacts it's sticking something fierce. But am unable to get the choke lever removed so I can split the lever assembly? Ideas? Won't pull off, don't see any screws? Baffled. Thanks.
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anyone interested in some like new '07 RSTD midnight parts?
naturbar posted a topic in Watering Hole
Well the insurance just left and gave me a check for my totaled '07 RSTD Midnight...it covered about half what i had invested into the bike. considering my wife and i put on about 38K miles over the past 6.5 years, i consider the check fair and equitable. I will place parts in classified if there is any interest. I have complete windscreen assembly (chrome midnight version), complete pillion assembly- both these assembly look brand new, brand new (never installed) left cowling, new "SKYDOC" brake bias kit and EBC double sintered FA 123HH disc pad set. if interested you can PM me or answer this post. it sure is tough saying goodbye to my bike, she was a trusty and reliable friend, who never once left me stranded....farewell Black Beauty !
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So........... what do you think of the difference of my rear fender and tail light housing/light assembly now? The first 3 pics are the before.. and the last pic is the after.. I like it..
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Gear Whine-Final Result-25 percent better.
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
We are just back from Santee, rode down and spent two hours in Cayce's garage, Got a new yamaha clutch assembly, basket and the works. Have something quite interesting to tell all of you. So let me get that done first. (the clutch is not the problem) As you know I have been playing around with a thicker oil. This has helped, not as hoped for, but has helped, but at the same time Cayce my motorcycle mechanic and old fishing pal, has been busy obtaining a new clutch assembly for me. I have also paid him in kind with a brand new air impact wrench and a set of metric 1/2 inch drive sockets. It only took him about an hour and a half to switch to the new clutch assembly, and this is the interesting thing. Some of you have already stated that even after changing out the clutch assembly your whine really did not go away, it just moved to a different rpm. Moved the sound so to speak, made it more tolerable. So as both of us are always quite curious to find an answer, here it is. With the clutch and main assembly removed, and a plastic bag taped over the opening to stop oil from flying around, we fired Cricket up! Even with the clutch totally removed, there is that characteristic whine sound of the actual motor working. It varies from non existent at idle to where you can hear it as you vary the throttle up to about 2000 rpm. We did not romp on it, but have determined it is not the clutch causing the problem. What is happening is this particular motor has a specific sound, a resonance, a particular harmonic sound if you will, this new clutch assembly has a slightly different size and it moves the harmonics to a lower rpm level. This is why some of you have stated that the whine did not go away it just moved. More on this in a minute. With everything back in place and the new assembly all installed and everything properly torqued, and after getting a lecture on not to be putting any straight 50 weight motor oil in the assembly, we again changed the filter, and put in exactly this time 125 ounce of total volume of 20w50 Mobil One, with 12.5 ounces of this being Lucas Oil additive. This works out to 3.906 quarts. Yamaha recommends 3.91 quarts. We are close, prefer to work with even numbers. Yes this volume with filter will totally close over the sight glass when sitting still. But with the motor running it is perfectly between the proper marks on the sight glass. So we have decided although the manual does not state so, the oil should be observed while the motor is running. (This again is just our observation) So going down to Santee with my original oil mix in the Motor and gear box, it does run somewhat more quiet, especially in the higher range of the gear rpm. Coming back, yep we still have the whine but it has as others have stated, moved. But with the oil and lucas , and the different assembly, it totally is non existent at certain times and gear rpm. Results are like as follows: In the lower gears and lower rpm, honestly there is not one iota of change. At low town speeds, 30 to 45 or 50 mph, the whine is still there. But again let me stress, it is not the clutch, this has been being mis-diagnosed for a long time, why I do not know, just has been is all. The motor and gear drive has a particular resonance that is unique to it, it varies with rpm. But as you increase speed it gets better and better!!. At 60 mph in 4th gear it is gone, all you can hear is the slight sound of the motor and you really have to listen to hear this, you begin to hear the whoosh of the wind and the quiet low rumble of the stock pipes. (I never could hear that at high speed before) as you push it on up to 65 mph and shift into 5th gear and take it on up to 70 mph the sound is completely gone, at 80 it does not return, it is a joy to listen to the motor work at that speed and hear the bike run. However as you shift between 4th and 5th gears and if you do not power it on up to 70 right away, if you dawdle , the whine will come back......until you get above 70 again. What is happening is you are dropping to a lower rpm, and allowing the resonance to return. I hope this explains more thoroughly what is the real cause of the whine, and to those who find it objectionable, a means to run the bike in a manner that will resolve most of it. No at lower rpm, and speeds it does not go away, and honestly I do not think it ever will. This is just a characteristic of the motor. For whatever design reason, and combination of a lot of things, it has this characteristic sound. By using a heavier oil, we improved the original problem by I would say about 10 percent. By moving the rpm range up with the new clutch assembly, it has improved in the low rpm range only slightly , but is dramatic in the high end rpm range of the gears. If you run 60 in 4th and not be running 25 to 30 in 4th, and the bike will do it easy, it has the power, but move the rpm range up, the whine will just fade out at this speed and rpm range. We have not changed the rear end, do not intend to, but some have said this has also helped. This does the exact same thing, causes you to run a little more rpm in each gear to obtain the same speed, therefore keeping you more in the power band. Does this help anyone? I am done playing with it, I was doing this as I was just totally curious and fascinated with this thing. I will continue to run 20w50 as this helps some, no does not cure it, but does quiet the motor some. I do not feel the so called whine will ever totally diss-appear , but if kept in the right rpm range, it can be almost eliminated totally at higher speeds. In fact if I did not have stock exhaust, I would not be able to hear it at all, and another thing. I have noticed some of the resonance is worse at low speeds, like in an alley way, between or next to a big truck. Bottom line , and my honest opinion. All big bikes have some motor noise, all of them(I will agree Honda is the quietest) this one has its own particular sound, I do not find it objectionable myself. I have gotten used to it some I suppose, but coming home, it was not at all bad. It would go completely way at any speed above 60 mph, as long as you did not lug the motor and kept the rpm up. We love the new venture, we are running 5psi in the front shocks, and 25 psi in the back one, she runs straight, strong and true. We will run the wheels off this one and get another in five years. I have ran a lot of big bikes, cruisers like this included and none have the response and comfort all put into one like this one does. Coming home, we could talk to each other, and hear, we do not use the intercom , or even turn the radio on, riding a bike is about getting out, listening to the motor, enjoying the bubble of the pipes as you use the gears to down-shift and slow around the corner. We could not hear like this before either, if this helps illustrate the difference. To us Cricket is 99 percent......nothing is perfect, we like her just fine. Respectfully Kit -
Yup...You guessed it... The 650 VStar and RSV have a lot more in common than the gas caps.... Although not the same part number, they do not sell the final drive shaft assembly seperatly(as it must mesh exactly with its counterpart in the hub). They do sell the coupling gear for 18.29. So I Need a 650 Yamaha Rear axel Gear case assembly. Part no# 5FB-46101-00-00 or 5FB-46101-01-00 The splines are completely gone, they were rusty, as no grease was ever put on them.... So word of warning... all you RSV and 650 owners need to pull the driveline and grease the splines on the coupling gear. This drive assembly for the 650 is over $500 new... In the meantine, I'm going to mig weld the coupling gear to the final drive shaft assembly on the inside. this will not allow it to be dissassembled, but you cannot buy the parts seperately anyway.
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My '02 RSV seems to have developed a slight fuel leak. The leak is a slight drip coming from the end of an allen bolt. You can see the drop in the attached pic. What is the assembly that the bolt holds? Anybody have any idea of how to fix this? That assembly looks like a pain to remove! Any help is much appreciated.
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I saw this on ebay....just exactly what is it and do we have a copy on the site? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/USED-86-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-XVZ13DS-XVZ-13-DS-XVZ13DSC-Assembly-Manual-/270944733172?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f159087f4&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_859wt_1178
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And PUHLEEZE let's not have snide remarks from the 1st genners .... (as if that would ever happen) Just wondering about this ... as we all know, some vehicles come off the assembly line at the wrong time of day or week and turn out to be a lemon. Similarly, certain years of a given run of vehicles seem to be better than others so... What year of the 2nd gen seemed to stand out as a better production year than others? Had the least amount of issues, least number of clutch basket whiners, least number of assembly screw-ups, etc, least number of rear shock early failures and so on.... Do we have any stats on this? Any thoughts from ya'll on this? Something for ya'll to jaw about while I'm away to Kruisn Kootenays to keep ya'll out of trouble..
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I just replaced the shift shaft seal over the weekend and it seemed to go well. I rode 40 miles to work today no problem. On the way home I needed to downshift for slowing traffic, and I could not push the shifter down to get into 4th gear. The only odd thing I noticed when putting the clutch basket assembly back together was that when I put the splined thrust washer on after the clutch basket, the place on the shaft where the thrust washer ends up has no splines. I thought that was strange, but I know I put the washer on in the correct order, after the basket but before the rest of the assembly. The clutch pull at the handlebar did seem not quite as firm tonight, but that could have been my imagination as I was looking for possible causes as I rode. Each time I could not downshift, I waited a few seconds and tried again and it worked. I upshifted with no problem. Any ideas? -
Need advice to repair or a replacement source for the 'lead switch assembly' in the rear brake reservoir. First time working on a brake issue on this bike so I'll elaborate as best as can with what I've found so far. Inside the reservoir, this assembly has a hollow plastic post with a C clip stopper on the top. The C clip prevents the float from slipping off the post. The float moves freely and stays at the top when fluid is topped up. It appears this float has a magnet attached to the inside circumference of itself that should keep the relay inside the post operated (N/C) for continuity back to the CM. ( I compared this with the front reservoir which works properly. Measured 0 ohm short) With the assembly removed and a meter across the two leads, the float in place and tapping the post with finger a few dozen times, the meter shows intermittent to no continuity. Likely corroded or dirty relay contacts? Is it possible to remove the relay from inside the post without destroying the two wires? I got the rubber/grout collar off but couldn't get the relay loose to pull it out. Could only find this OEM assembly part on-line as discontinued. Everything is reassembled and mechanically works at this point, but the two leads towards the CM are temporarily bridged to keep warning light extinguished. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance. (what a better way to spend half of the long week-end eh) -
Left rear turn signal quit working. Took it apart to find out it was full of rust. Used WD40 to clean the contact areas and got a new bulb and it still did not work. The rust may have done too much damage and I may need to replace the assembly or at least repair it. Has anyone got any advice or experience removing the turn signal assembly? Thanks in advance.
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Hey All, This '86 I have has been putting me through my paces. It's my primary transportation and this is the 2nd time it's went down hard in the last month. I just completely redid the clutch in it, with all new steels, friction discs and slave cylinder. I now am in need of the stator magnet, or rotor assembly as it's called, it's part # 26H-81450-10-00 I just checked and from '83 to '89 is the same part # and all should work with what I need. The bolts that hold it and the starter clutch together came loose and took out the windings on the stator. I have a new HO stator kit coming from Earl (Skydoc 17) but upon inspection yesterday when I pulled the assembly apart off the crankshaft, I noticed the holes are a bit wallowed out and I'd like to replace it. If anyone of you 1st genners with multiple parts bikes have the magnet along with the 6 retaining bolts I would love to hear from you. My cell # is in my profile, and I'll be on the site daily to check for messages....Thanks in advance -
I have found the new Venture that I would like to have. I can't afford it but I would love to have it... Hmmmmmm Some assembly required. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/kitspages/nuventure.php Photos
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About 25,000 miles ago my 2000 venture failed and would not start.....after checking everything for several days finally figured that the pick up assembly (part # 4nk 81670-00-00) had failed. Its also called an Ignition pickup pulse generator. The first one I replaced was ordered through Yamaha. This time I will get a used one from Pinwill. What I would like to know is if anyone else has had this problem or maybe I am just special. By the way I looked through the forum and could not find anyone else with the same problem....Both times the pick up assembly failed it was in the my garage, a day or three after a long hard ride, 10hr 60-80mph.
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I need help. I was installing my wolo horn on my bike in the original horn location. I used the ground location behind for my ground. During preliminary tests, the ground was not tightened. The stereo was on. Long story short, I now have no audio, speaker or headset. Up to final assembly, stereo had worked. Did I fry my amp under the fairing? How much is that to replace?
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Hello folks; I am a new member and need some help. I just purchased a 1988 Venture Royale, approx 57k miles on it. Still in real good condition and runs strong. I have begun to improve on some items, first thing I did was to add the progressive springs in the front forks, what a difference, thank you for the advice. Here is my situation; I hear a rattle noise in the clutch assembly when the bike is on the kick stand leaning to the left. When the bike is straight, it does not seem to rattle. I took off the cover and inspected the clutch assembly. I do not know what it should feel like from factory? My clutch plates attached to the clutch ‘boss’ the whole assembly seem to be a little loose as I am able to wiggle it back and forth slightly. Not sure if there is supposed to be wiggle room? I think that is where the rattle is coming from. I need help in trying to take off the big nut in the center of the clutch assembly? It is a 30mm nut and I have socket to fit it but I do not know how to hold the clutch boss and clutch basket in place to loosen the nut? I am also wondering if there is a washer or bushing behind the clutch boss that may be worn? Or if the 30mm nut is just not tight enough causing the wiggle room that I am finding? Any advice that any of you can give me is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for any help. Yours truly, Mark
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Any suggestion as to what and where to purchase. Mine is not a Royal and I bought one off Ebay that mounts between the grip and the power switch assembly - Problem is, on my bike the throttle grip and the power switch do not seperate so the bracket cannot fit between them. Thanks in advance. Roger -
May not be the right place for this ?, but I have found a (what they say is an) 1984 venture royale in the junk yard that is complete and they said they would let it go for $1200.00 I am OK with this price but the yard said that it needed a new stator.. found one on ebay for $139.00. here is the thing i am wondering about though, it has front and back floor boards with heel toe shifter as well as highway floor boards. did they offer the floor boards for the driver as an after market product for the first jen? I know that this was available for the passenger but have never seen this for the driver. the bike has 45000miles on it comes with all the keys and here is another thing that I am wondering, the top storage container lock assembly is the one that is actuated by 2 buttons http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqQOKpcE3JTCJC14BNzuuFkmqQ~~_14.JPG like this one? my 84 doesnt have this lock assembly (I insert the key unlock and lift), was this an option on the 84? Could this be an 85 with a good transmission? please help I wanna get this bike, so all I have left is to clear it with the financial advisor. Thanks in advance mike
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I need to replace a brake light in the left trunk assembly. I look up in the service manual how to do the job...3 nuts and the assembly falls out, right? WRONG! The nut in the middle just spins round and round like it wants to be a ballerina or something. I guess the stud broke loose from its' base. I've thought about it and thought about it and can't come up with any ideas that don't involve damaging plastic in some way. Anyone have an idea? -
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVJXtYoGk9I]YouTube- Assembly of a Goldwing[/ame]
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A friend of mine, Marthia Sides, has made another music video to go with her new song....lets get the youtube hitcounter to rack up some views for this lovely and talented young lady from Nashville. Thanks for the support! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESofX-wYH_4]YouTube- Some Assembly Required[/ame]
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Looks like I am going to have to have it rebuilt, replaced, something. It was my fault, I didn't get the pucks cleaned off enough when I replaced the pads and one of them is now sticking slightly. So now I am going to pay. They do work as is, but unless I want to go through a couple sets of pads in a riding season and to prevent any future issues, I should get it fixed. One of the puck edges has a slight angle to it. Just enough to cause uneven/premature pad wear. Pinwall has some for $25-$30. Would you trust it? After all it is used and makes you wonder what happened to the bike for it be end up in a salvage yard. Llike a rear brake failure causing an accident. I know skydoc has a setup but the price is way too much for me and I just need a rear setup. I know the R1 is more or less a racing bike and brakes designed as such but my concern is the R1 is alot lighter than a Venture. The R1 brakes weren't designed to handle a Venture. I know, I know, all the lawyer speak, liability and such. If we listened to it all, no one would put car tires on a bike either, but let's not get into that discussion. Checked the parts page and entire assembly is $340. Piston assembly by itself is $113 for 1 and $86 for the other but it says it is on backorder. Looks like seals by themselves is $60. Any suggestions? -
I know we just about beat this to death, but it is a VERY annoying sound. My question is that can I ASSUME that my 2009 already has the "I" Basket clutch assembly installed? Or is it possible I could still have an earlier clutch basket in the bike. Thanks, Wally
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Hi, I have had the front brake lever / master cyl assembly off my red bike to fit a new sight glass. The brake worked fine before this, so I know all is well except that I have let a bit of air in up top. After re assembly, I have air in the system and soft lever action but I know its all up top at the reservoir end. Whats the simplest way to re prime the master cylinder in this case? (Sorry for what might be a well addressed question, but I am under the gun a bit as my temporary permit for this bike expires after tomorrow and I have to get it to the inspection station before then or legally it becomes a paper weight. They seem to think front brakes are important.) Thanks, Brian H.
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