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Showing results for tags 'angle'.
Found 21 results
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Well, I am well into my bike trying to figure out what the heck my deal is (as per thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68293) and have it basically narrowed down to the ignition unit or the lean/tilt/angle/bank sensor. The service manual has it labeled on page 8-3 as an "Emargency stop switch" (spelling accurate as per service manual, which made me chuckle). I have also 'located' it on the parts fiche (Part 54 on "Electrical 1" 2001 RSV [not that the year matters): (EMERGENCY STOP SWITC 4BH-82576-01-00 (replaces 4BH-82576-00-00)) Now, my problem is I cannot find the darn thing on my bike. I have checked behind both lower cowlings, under the tank, along the neck and I cannot for the life of me find it! Here is a picture of it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Venture-Royal-Star-XVZ1300-BANK-ANGLE-SENSOR-/370012459623?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5626761267&vxp=mtr Anyone know where this s.o.b actually is?!?!?!?!?!? Much obliged. :bang head::bang head: Cheers. -
Hey Guys, This is just a learning exercise today. I've been searching for specific info on the timing of the 1st Gen, particulary the 84 since that's what I've got. If I understand correctly, our V4 is an odd fire engine, meaning that the cylinders are not evenly spaced 180 deg apart like the typical inline 4. However, when looking at the pickup coils on the inside of the left cover (see the pic I found and re-attached) it appears that not only are the banks separated by a prescribed angle, but each cylinder within the bank appears to also be separted by a smaller angle. My search leads me to a 70 deg angle between banks, but what is the separation angle between cylinders on each bank? Why would the mfg have chosen that timing, and is there some benefit that escapes me? Thanks all!
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BaggerShield has just released 2 new models of cruiser windshields. The Patriot windshield is available in 15" and 18" height. These shields are mounted to your handlebars (7/8" up to 1-1/4" bars). The mounting clamps slide in and out from 3" to 9" to accommodate any other accessories you might have on your bars. The shields can be adjusted up and down 2" and the angle of the shield can be adjusted to whatever angle you like. The mounting hardware is made of a very high quality, chrome plated, billeted aluminum and the shield itself is made of 3/16" thick aircraft grade Lucite. Click on each picture to bring you to their product page for more details. http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb402/BaggerShield/TB-PAT-18Web.jpg http://i1204.photobucket.com/albums/bb402/BaggerShield/TB-PAT-15Web.jpg
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i looked at one of these today in lexington ky,never thought i'd like them but i was really surprised it very well made tho the seating is different then the rsv i think after getting use to the angle it might be more comfortable,going back for a test drive the firsd the roads are dry, might make a good stable mate for the rsv. has anyone else tried these out:Venture:
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Well it was listening to that whine from the back of my bikes(td and venture) for 3 years now that caused me to take matters into my own hands. I know i should have done this long ago but , hey, my feet were happy! I asked several people to come up with a way to lower the boards for my wife to no avail so this is my answer. 2x2 3/16 angle cut 3 inches long . kuyrakan longhorns. 1/4 gal pipe cut for spacers. (see pics). Since I dont really have the facility to make these they were kinda labor intensive since most of it was with hand tools I was hoping one of you guys with a shop might be able to do them if any others wanted. We have rode on a 450 mile day so far and she loved them. Said she like to be able to change from the boards to the pegs. They do flip up neatly when not in use. The 3/16 angle does have a little flex but not more than the stock floorboard. Perhaps if i was doing it again i'd use 1/4 angle. Anyway the whine is completely gone from the rear of the bike now. All is right in the world now! Jack in Los Osos CA
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Ok guys will the intercom cables comming from the amp to head set from a 99 work on the 92 venture as long as the cable from the 99 has the 90 degree angle on the end going into the amp:bluesbrother:
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http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=56600&stc=1&d=1305504455 I just purchased a 2008 RSV and judging by the angle of the lower wind deflectors, relative to the fork angle, I question whether or not I have the right passing lamp mount. Could it be that this mount is for an RSTD? Paul
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Submitted by Saddlebum. Proper use of steering head wrench with torque wrench By the way everyone for some of you who may not be aware of this, There is a small issue you need to keep in mind when using this tool with a torque wrench. If you mount the tool on on a torque wrench at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench . You may set the torque wrench to the exact torque spec. If you mount it at a 45 DEG. angle or straiaght in line. You have to do a small calculation to compansate for the additional length. In otherwords you set your torque wrench at a lower setting to compensate for the added length. Here are two links that will do the calculation for you as well as explain it. The second link actually gives you a pic of the torgue wrench setup. you simply fill in the boxes and it will tell you what set your torque wrench at in order to reach the desired torque. https://belknaptools.com/extensions-calculator/
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well, not quite trailer, sidecar really. My leaning sidecar came originally with a 480x8 wheel with integral hub, I am upgrading this to a separate hub and wheel combo from Northern Tool. Here's the rub, when I install everything there is a hump like you would have on a spoke wheel with the spokes adjusted wrong. If the swingarm is somehow not perfectly even, would the tire not still track straight albeit under an angle Am I correct in assuming that if the hub is cast incorrectly the whole wheel would run under an angle? Could the wheel rim be warped? What would the effect of this (sideways) wobble be at high speed with this size tire? I am trying to get the side car back on the bike and run it before next weekend's March on Rome, so I am kind of pushing on this to get it re-attached and aligned. Thanks for any feedback! And have a great Labor Day weekend!!
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I'm getting ready to hook up my trailer and am curious about the ball hitch. It appears that when it's snug in the tongue of the trailer that it doesn't tilt (angle) as far as the bike might when taking corners. Do you guys use a ball with a longer shaft than standard or am I just imagining things?
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Anyone know what the maximum lean angle is before you start dragging boards or pegs (on a 1st gen)? Thanks!
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I have always felt that my 2007 RSV points to the right when it is running in a straight line, on any type of surface. (so did my 2006 RSV I had for a short time). My dealer has checked things and said it is normal. However, I still have the impression it points to the right. I have run into a few others that have said the same thing, but not many. Well, I finally did some measurements and have confirmed, in my opinion, that it DOES point to the right. I used a 10 inch magnetic level with the rotatable angle indicator. Here is a summary of the testing: - with bike on side stand, attach the magnetic level to the rear brake rotor. Use another level to make sure that the magnetic level is perfectly vertical when viewd from the side of the bike. - adjust the level "angle bubble" on the level until it is centered in the window. This will be the reference angle of the rear wheel. Be careful not to bump or change the angle indication. - attach the same level to the front right brake rotor, again using another level to make sure it is vertical. - move the bike handlebars until the angle bubble on the level is exactly centered as it was on the rear rotor. When this position is found, this is the normal running position of the front and rear wheels at speed. (that is with one wheel trying to be exactly behind the other and at the same angle) - use a piece of string, and/or a metal measuring tape or other means to take several measurements from the handlebar and fork to fixed points on the main frame. The following points were measured: - left and right handlebar tips to rear passenger foot rest mounting bolts on left and right. (about a 1/2 to 3/4 of inch difference was found) - front axle left center to lower front left leg cowling fastener. Same on right side. (aobut a 1/8th inch difference found here) - bolt at left side rear of lower triple tree clamp to gas tank front mounting bolt. Same on right side. (about a 1/8th to 1/4 inch difference here) - lower left and right rear front brake caliper mounting bolt to leg cowling bolts, both left and right sides. (almost a 1/4 inch difference here) In all cases, the measurements from the right side of the fork and handlebar to the frame were smaller than on the left. This tells me that the whole fork, handlebar, etc, is pointing to the right, when both wheels are running vertically as they will at speed. I have now presented this info to my dealer to see what they have to say. I'll post any news.
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Since I first got my 2007 RSV I have felt that the forks and handlebars point to the right. IN fact, I also had an 06 RSV for a short time and felt that it also did this. I have found a few others, but not many, that feel the same thing. I have had it to the dealer several times to investigate but they say there are no adjustments and that it is all normal. I now have used a small level with angle adjustable vial/bubble to pretty much confirm that it does in fact point to the right. Here is a summary of the testing:- with bike on side stand, attach the magnetic level to the rear brake rotor. Use another level to make sure that the magnetic level is perfectly vertical in one plane. - adjust the level "angle bubble" on the level until it is centered in the window. This will be the reference angle of the rear wheel. Be careful not to bump or change the angle indication.- attach the same level to the front right brake rotor, again using another level to make sure it is vertical when viewed from the side of the bike. - move the bike handlebars until the angle bubble on the level is exactly centered as it was on the rear rotor. When this position is found, this is the normal running position of the front and rear wheels at speed. (that is with one wheel trying to be exactly behind the other and at the same angle - they are like big gyros)- use a piece of string, and/or a metal measuring tape or other means to take several measurements from the handlebar and fork to fixed points on the main frame. The following points were measured:- left and right handlebar tips to rear passenger foot rest mounting bolts on left and right. (about a 1/2 to 3/4 of inch difference was found)- front axle left center to lower front left leg cowling fastener. Same on right side. (aobut a 1/8th inch difference found here)- bolt at left side rear of lower triple tree clamp to gas tank front mounting bolt. Same on right side. (about a 1/8th to 1/4 inch difference here)- lower left and right rear front brake caliper mounting bolt to leg cowling bolts, both left and right sides. (almost a 1/4 inch difference here)In all cases, the measurements from the right side of the fork and handlebar to the frame were smaller than on the left. This tells me that the whole fork, handlebar, etc, is pointing to the right, when both wheels are running vertically as they will at speed. I have forwarded this info to the dealer. And will wait to see what they say.Any comments from other RSV owners?
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Weight = 170 lbs Tongue Wt = 17 lbs Tongue Angle = SLIGHT DOWNWARD ANGLE Overall Width = 44" Length = 84" Height = 36" CuFt = 20.5 Diamond Plate 16ga Alum on a floating 9/16" rubber (Camper/Topper Weather Stripping). Sears X-Cargo on 6/16" rubber (Camper/Topper Weather Stripping). Hold Down Plates w/ 3/16" (Camper/Topper Weather Stripping). Lights are LED's Investment approx $600.00 and LOTS of time... Improvements To DO List. Add 24" to Tongue and add a Cooler Rack (this will increase my Tongue Weight from 10% to xx%. Also drill out existing hinges that hold it open to 30 degrees angle and allow it to open with small chain to 95 to 100 Degrees Angle. Thanks to all for your information and ideas.
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Lean angle when parked.
Flyinfool posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hmmmmm..... All of these posts about too much lean angle. I am always worried that my 88 V1 will tip over to the right side when parked on the side stand. What is the "correct" lean angle? When I stop I have to lean the bike to the right past the CG to get ground clearance to get the SS all of the way down. It only takes about 10 lbs of force to bring the bike up off the side stand to the CG. A 5 year old girl has no problem tipping it over on the right side with one hand. Unfortunately I learned this. When I park on the side stand I always have to pull the bike hard to the left after the SS is down to raise the suspension as much as possible. I always worry about the wind blowing it over to the right. There is almost no slop in my SS, the bolt is tight and not bent, and the SS does not appear to be bent, but I have nothing to compare it to. I do still have all original springs and shocks. Where I live I have no garage just an 8x10 steel shed and the windshield just clears the door top by less than 1/8 inch. I had to remove the pan head screw in the middle of the door frame for windshield clearance, it is that close. The bike handles and rides fine with the suspension as is, if I put in new progressive springs or raise the shock pressures, it will sit higher, and lean better, but NOT fit thru the door to my storage shed. It can not be left/kept outside overnight or the insurance co will be very unhappy with the replacement cost, and I really do not want to cut the top of the windshield or door frame either. I was debating milling off the bottom of the SS and welding a new pad on a little higher to get some more lean angle. I can also then make the pad a little bigger to help when parked on grass or very hot asphalt. (Yes I do carry a 4 inch round chunk of sheet metal for parking on soft surfaces). Anyone else ever mess with this issue? -
Just have a ? about placing the scoot at an angle while trailering ? I have an opportunity to buy an enclosed trailer at a deal . It's 7 x14 Continental V-nose , tandem axle enclosed . I want to haul the scoot and BEERCART within it . I can get both inside , but both are at an angle . Weight distribution is not an issue ! It's only that I cannot place the scoot and cart side by side as the total combined width's of both are greater than the inside trailer width . The seller allowed me to bring the trailer home to see if they will both fit . As I said , I can get both inside . The scoot when placed inside is about 10-15 degrees off of true forward . It already has track tie-downs and wheels chocks . I would only have to move the one wheel chock to reposition it for the scoot . Of course I would I would extra tie-down straps to secure scoot as it'sin an angle because of braking and curves . It's a nice trailer and at a good price , so I need to know ASAP to secure the sale . TIA , BEER30
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I finished to receive the two LED's from e-bay that has both position lights and brakes. I forget the simplest thing when I order it about how the socket was facing to.... So, I get the light looking to the side metal piece instead of the red plastic. Did someone knows if there is any adapter made for 90º angle for 1157 lamps? Thanks in advance. I know that I saw in the past those lamps, but when you need it you never find where was their website. Again thanks, :crying::crying:
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I stopped by the police station today at lunch and picked up a copy of the report. It does have her as hitting the bike and she was noted as improper backing. She was also charged with driving on a suspended license, go figure. This is all well and good but on my vehicle it was noted that I was parked illegally. This is a city street in front of where I work with no restrictions in that area. The only thing I can think that might be an issue at this point was I was parked at an angle to the curb, not perpendicular, but at about a 30 degree angle. I mainly do this because this street, as most, is sloped downward and I am more confortable with the stance of the bike on the side stand. Just got a call back from the Police Officer and I told him I was confused and what was I doing to be parked illegally? He said you were not parked illegally. I said the report says that. He then goes into this tirade about using these little PDA's to do reports on. He then stated that he would get it corrected and then I could pick up another copy. WHEW!!! So, I am about back to square one on dealing with an insurance company and should be without having to deal with the company and the video. What a roller coaster ride so far. BTW, as I noted earlier, this guy rides a Goldwing. He also noted on the report that the damage was under $400. Yeah. RandyA
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Finaly finished. After listening to everyone talk about floorboard placement making your passenger more comfortable I thought I would give it a try myself. I first cut the hinge off the OEM floorboard mounts and added length with 1/4" plate. I then welded a vertical piece to the new end moving the bottom down and forward. After shaping the new horizontal piece to match the angle of the original I carried that same angle down the new vertical piece which is now forward 3" and down 3". Next I cut the "T" end of a Harley Davidson floorboard mount and welded it to the bottom of the new vertical end. To minimize flex and add strength I welded gussets to the newly formed front and back inside angle and shaped to fit aroung the exhaust down tube. After the piece was chromed I added a new set of Kuryakyn boards. For the trunk I paid $10 for a HD fender rack at a salvage shop and cut all the flanges of it and welded it to a RSTD detachable backrest I bought on ebay for $50 (what a steal). I made the weld just above the latching mechanism. Once that was in place it made the backrest ridged enough to cut the upright hoop away just above the weld and not lose the correct angles and possition to allow it to click into place on the fender rail. To minimize any vibration or flex that might come up I welded a small strut to each side from the horizantal rack on an angle down to and existing hole in the fender rail. Once the entire piece was chromed I added an HD tour pak painted to match my bike and now I have a detachable trunk I can just click out as needed. My wife is much happier. It took some time but boy is it worth it.
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Has anybody in here ever replaced their bulbs with LED bulbs? The tail lights are simple to find replacement bulbs but the turn signal bulbs would have to be made at a right angle to point to the front or rear of the bike. I have seen the blade type for the instrument panel and marker lights. The marker light again would have to be made with a right angle. Any suggestions? I know the VR's are lacking in the power output department and figure I could save some wattage for my trailer and other accessories if I can swap in LED bulbs. In the mean time I'm talking to a guy who says he can rebuild the rectifier and upgrade the stator for more output. Just have to find a couple used specimens to take him so he can get started.
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I put some footpegs on the crash guards on my 84 but I can't get them into the right angle. They work the way they are but could be more comfortable. Do any of you know where a guy can get some beveled washers so I can shim them to the right angle? Or does anyone know another good way to get them to the right angle? They need to move a good 20* +/- a couple.
