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Showing results for tags 'amps'.
Found 19 results
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I am looking at the LED headlamps and passing lamps sold by customdynamics.com. Is anyone using these yet? I think they're pretty new. I am thinking this might be a better way to save amps than LED turn signals/running lights and/or swapping out the stator for the HO one. Thanks for any and all input. Don
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When I took a ride the other evening, I accidentally left my running lights on and they are not wired thru the ignition switch on purpose. I have plugged up my battery charger that charges at 6 amps on the high setting and 2 amps on the low. I am currently on the high setting. Is it ok to charge a dead DEKA battery like this? RandyA
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Can i change the circuit breaker from 5 amps to say 15_20 amps without blowing up the electrical system? I need to run a 12 volt air pump which has blown the 5 amp fuze tout de suit (PDQ) both times i've tried. Any thoughts? FF -
What is the best and baddest(cold cranking amps) battery I can put in my 84 Ventura?
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I have installed all bulbs including the dash bulbs with LED's and I can say that it was worth every penny because the load on the battery has changed from 15 amps to around 2 amps with a inductive amp meter wrapped around the ground side to see the diff. Jumper the CMU for running and brake lights and installed a 50watt 6 ohm load resistor kit on the let and right side to trick the turn signal relay just enough to have it flash. Will post pictures tomorrow of what I did and if any body needs the info on what bulbs went where I can send that to you. The total cost was around $130.00 for every bulb and the two load resistor kits. Now on to the rest of the bike to finale finish her up and give it a ride.. -
Replacing dash lights with LEDs
asigetic posted a topic in Computer, Lights, Horns, Other Electrical
I have installed all bulbs including the dash bulbs with LED's and I can say that it was worth every penny because the load on the battery has changed from 15 amps to around 2 amps with a inductive amp meter wrapped around the ground side to see the diff. Jumper the CMU for running and brake lights and installed a 50watt 6 ohm load resistor kit on the let and right side to trick the turn signal relay just enough to have it flash. Will post pictures tomorrow of what I did and if any body needs the info on what bulbs went where I can send that to you. The total cost was around $130.00 for every bulb and the two load resistor kits. Now on to the rest of the bike to finale finish her up and give it a ride.. -
I'm mounting an pole mounted Q-625 Amber Strobe Beacon lamp on the back of the scoot for traffic awareness for our group rides, mainly for Rolling Thunder's long trips. The strobe draws 3 amps. I have an off/on switch to turn off the carb heaters. I can also turn off my passing lamps to conserve battery juice. If I pull the BEERCART, I'll have an additional battery (lawn mower type) tied parallel into the scoot's system for added power. Will I be OK drawing the 3 amps without worry of draining the battery? I plan on getting another beacon later. I just happen to have this one right now and a LED Beacon. However the LED Beacon is less noticeable in daylight. BEER30
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I was looking at one of my street rod magazines today and came across this web site for hot rod batteries crystal cell technology??? http://www.hotrodbatteries.com/ One model (HRB 11) is even smaller (5.125 x 3.250 x 6.500) than the RSV battery(6.875" x 3.4375" x 6.125") with 375 cranking amps. Looks like the HRB 14 with 475 cranking amps would work too. They don't advertise the price so I'm sure it must be kind of high considering a 100% replacement five year warranty. Just thought I would through it out there for anyone who might be interested. If nothing else, I think I might look into one for my street rod.
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I am starting to think I may have a weak battery on my 06 RVS (it is the OEM battery) due to the fact that after a ride I have been connecting it to my Battery Tender. I would think it would show full charge very shortly after plugging it in but it takes several hours before that happens. Anyway, I have been looking at some of the replacement battery choices and have become confused by the specification on cold cranking amp ratings which I have thought was an important spec to look for. Example: Odyessy PC545 lists 185 CCA but somehow can muster 545 amps 5 sec 495 amps 10secs and 420 amps 20 secs Other batteries usually show 270 CCA which would seem better (bigger is better?) than 185 CCA but nothing about "pulse crank amps" Do they all have this rating? According to Odyessy theirs is the best battery you can buy just like what the other manufactures say eg. Yuasa, Dexa, Big Crank, Walmart etc. So what am I missing here, what are the most important specs to look for besides price. They can't all be of equal quality can they? The price range is $50 to $110 so we are only talking about $50 difference between the cheapest and most expensive. What I care about is a battery that has exceptional reliablity and long life. I hate equipment failure on the road. Thanks for your help
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Those of you who have installed the Yamaha passing lamps may want to inspect the OEM glass fuse holder that is part of the wiring harness that comes with the lamps. I installed these lamps on my 06 RSTD this spring. I just completed a thousand kilometer vacation trip last week and had no problems, but last Sunday on a day trip I noticed my passing lamps were no longer working. The fused power lead was connected to the wiring harness inside the headlight housing so that is the first placed I checked. I discovered that the nylon OEM glass fuse holder had melted where the bottom of the glass fuse makes contact with the lower contact point. Fortunately the nylon fuse holder was tough enough to restrict the damage to the fuse holder housing itself and none of the other wires around it were damaged, but I had to use Channellock pliers to get it apart. I have since replaced the glass fuse holder with an automotive ATO fuse holder c/w weatherproof rubber cap. I also noted that the OEM glass fuse is rated at 10 amps whichs seems a bit high for the two lights that it powers. The red power lead looks a little thin for 10 amps. I have reduced the rating of the new ATO fuse to 5 amps and everything works just fine.
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I need some expert advise on amps and AMH Rating.. I want to use a winch thats says not to use a battery with less 12 AMHTo run it.. Now I have the Pyramid regulated power supply that has a constant 12 AMP Rating. So will this run that Winch? Hope this makes since *lol* Thanks, Jeff
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I attached a coax type power cable to my battery for my heated gloves and jacket. There is an in-line fuse rated at 15 Amps. I'm not sure what the actual Amps are in the cable. If the actual Amps are very low, then the heated gear won't achieve full capability. Gloves are supposed to draw about 2.3 Amps and jacket is supposed to draw about 3.5 Amps. This means I need about 6 Amps actual supplied to the power cable from the battery. Trying to figure out how to measure the actual Amps running through this power cable. My multimeter only measures voltage and resistance. For what it's worth I also have my GPS wired to the battery and the revco air horn. My kuryakin voltmeter is wired to the fairing power socket. Any help would be appreciated. David -
Hello Everyone, I am new to this forum but not to RSV's. I want to install a higher output stator in my 1999 RSV (for reasons I'm sure everyone knows about). Stock output is 29A @ 14V @ 5000 RPM. The only two I could find are from Ricks ( http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=21-412H&pmc=MDBZYW1YVloxMzAwVEY= ) who state theirs puts out 40 to 45 amps for $160, and from Buckeye ( http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p24.htm ) who states theirs puts out 55 amps for $239. The latter equates to a 83% increase over stock which I wonder if is even possible. Both dealers say they have their stators made up by an undisclosed third party. Has anyone had any experience with these two stators to determine if one is superior to the other and if the Buckeye is really better? I would be ticked if I later found out they both were the same and from the same manufacturer and had paid 50% more from the latter seller. Any help with this? Roadrider (Grant) PS. I posted this on another forum but the jury still seems to be out on the topic. -
I have the 4 Way Flashers on my 06 Venture and would like to know the electrical load limit on this set-up. A LEO friend of mine gave me 4 mini-amber strobes and I'd like to tie these into the 4 Way Flasher wiring. The mini-strobes pull .5 amps each for a total of 2 amps. If I can do this I won't have to install a separate switch just for the mini-strobes.
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dumb ? i know but is there any way to jump a bike with a car batt.? read some where a car batt. will burn fuse or worse. as long as not over 5 amps it would work right? maybe a could put resistors in line on jumper cables so as a car(turned off) could jump start bike .not an electrician so how much resistance? or are amps different matter to reduce? or is only option bike to bike jump?what is best option in emergancey? is there any jumper packs out there on market that could safely jump bike ? i have the HOT start problem but it allways started but not last week.allmost considered jumping with a car ( bike cooled off and stated) fianally but volts were way down bought ODESSY 680 battery and i guess some day install better Batt wires any advise? Mike Q
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I came to work to night and when I got here the tail lights were not working, I checked the bulbs (OK), looked in the online manual and haven't found any help there. Will look for the fuse to see if it is a lone fuse. Brake lites work. Any ideas? On the starter, it starts great sometimes, then about every 2 or 3 times it will pull the amps down to about 5, then hesitate, then crank like a new one. Cleaned the batt cables, and tested it (OK). This happens cold or hot?!?!?!?!?!? Any ideas? Thankx, Gary C -
Need some electrical help here. I just replaced the 14 - 5 watt wedge bulbs in my lower light bar. So my questions are and am I correct in the following: 1) Amp draw for the 14 X 5 watt incandescent bulbs I removed was: 14 X 5 wts ea = 70 wts divided by 12 volts = 5.83 amps and 2) Amp draw for the 14 LED wedge bulbs I just installed is: 14 X .026 amps at 12 volts = .364 amps Therefore; reducing the load by some 5.46 amps. I also replaced both the stock 1157s in the taillight with LEDs purchased from "superbrightleds.com" and believe me, they ARE brighter. I then tied in the light bars into the taillight wiring in order to increase the load on that circuit. This seems to have eliminated the "warning" light on the dash from thinking a taillight bulb was blown. So what they come on together. Now whenever the brake light circuit is activated, the amp gauge doesn't drop at all and I have more even more visibility at all times. I used to be concerned watching the amp gauge drop significantly while sitting at a light for extended periods of time holding the brakes on. Are my above calculations correct or am I way out there in left field? Perhaps somebody more inclined than I can advise. Thank y'all
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OK -- time to upgrade the sound system. I already know about the speakers, but what about amps? Who is happy with theirs? Where do they go? How difficult to wire? I am NOT an electrical genius, but I know what sounds good, and it is not the stock setup. Hep me! Hep me! This weekend's trip to Austin finally convinced me that the current set up is not good for highway speed(80 mph) and wind(in my face).
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I just purchased a new '06 Venture, and will be picking it up in Michigan in two weeks, to drive home here near Toronto. Can someone tell me about the auxiliary connector and jack? one is under the rider seat and one at the front--exactly what kind of connector do I need to plug into these? Also, I will be riding home in probably cold weather. I have a heated suit, but it appears the connectors can't handle the amps that my system requires--6.4 for the coat, 3.6 for the pants, and 2.2 for the gloves. What do others of you do? Run directly from the battery? Thanks in advance, Ken
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