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Showing results for tags 'aluminum'.
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Last Sunday wasn't such a nice day in the northeast. Desided good day to do a little cleaning. Got to Lowe's when it opened and picked up a few supplies: Heavy duty ecologically friendly cleaner. An aluminum, chrome and stainless steel cleaner polisher. 00 grade steel wool rated pads. Got home, made some coffee, got some tunes going in the garage, parked my rump on the floor and got at it. Front wheel Picture 1 - Before Picture 2 - After heavy duty cleaning Picture 3 - After maybe 10 minutes of aluminum cleaner and scrubbing Pics 4 and 5 - Worked on front right fork too. Front wheel (rims only) + front right fork = 4 hours It ain't new but pretty happy with results. Even looks faster. Me thinks me needs a few more rainy days though.
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Ok.... I don't know nutting about this one. I've had good luck bending and shaping thin aluminum sheet before but I've moved in to the heavier stuff on another project. I bought some 1/8" x 2" aluminum strap today for making some brackets. I need to put some 90 degree bends across the width of this stuff. With the 1/8" thickness am I going to be concerned about stress or cracking at the bends making that sharp of a bend? No real weight will be on the bracket after mounting but don't want to weaken it in the process. Mike
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I got a new neighbor that wants to be freindly. Must not have talked to others yet. Or maybe he isn't a Doper. I can only hope. Any way he asked how to keep Corrosion from happening between Steel and aluminum. I know this was discussed at length on here but brain don't want to pull that file!!
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Ok Guys & Gals with G2 Ventures. I am now making Gauge plates and install brackets. I will post an ad in the classifieds soon. [ATTACH]36733[/ATTACH][ATTACH]36734[/ATTACH][ATTACH]36735[/ATTACH][ATTACH]36736[/ATTACH][ATTACH]36739[/ATTACH] The Plates will be available in polished Aluminum and primered steel. The brackets are made of Aluminum. They come with mounting instructions. I will also offer the oil presure adapter pre-drilled and tapped for those who don't have the means or desire to drill their own. Stay tuned, Ponch
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The dealer wants $25.00 for an Exhaust/Collector gasket. I'm thinking of making one. I'm looking for copper sheet but so far can only find brass, aluminum, zinc sheets. Was wondering if anyone knew if one should stay away from brass, aluminum or zinc. I will be checking Home Depot and Lowes tomorrow for copper sheets for I was told that the earlier years the exhaust gasket were made from copper, but the newer ones are some sort of silver color material. Welcome any comments.
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I have a 93 Cougar v-6 needing a new head gasket, I'm an old scholl kid so when I see a kit with graphic head gaskets at the parts store I back off real slow... Like I said, I have no familiarity but always thought a good ole metal head gasket sealed well but also REALLY helped transfer that heat. And I still say aluminum heads are junk! Anyone have some real info on this variant? I know Ford offers the metal ones but they want my next born for them... but if that's the proper route...
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Mom and Dad used to cook meals on the manafold of the Model A while traveling cross country when I was a kid.... I'm toying with the idea of trying a small Pot Roast on the way to Cody. Triple wrapped in aluminum foil should keep the juices contained. Now I have to figure out where to place it??
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Be precise please. I have never bought antifreeze for a motorcycle. The book says to get Ethylene Glycol type. I have not got a clue what that is. Is it possibly just plain old car antifreeze or what ? What brand should I get for a bike. I am sure it would have to be for an aluminum engine. I would like to completely change even. I do now know the procedure,thanks to Goose and the tech library. The bike is a 2007 model and has same antifreeze. Thank you in advance. Fuzzy -
Hi All, Still working on the '87, coming along. Alot of the engine has, what I would call, agold patina to is, from years of oil and stuff I guess. Waht would be a way of cleaning and polishing the aluminum, to give closer to a new look? Thanks D:confused24:
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since the carb covers are nolonger avalible was wondering if anyone could make a poster board pattern for me and i will try to make some out of polished aluminum thanks bill
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These started out all black and my brother Rich fixed them for me. The finished product is much brighter. Is ther anything I can put on them to protect them because the aluminum is very soft.
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...I must have missed it. What type coolant do most of you buy when replacing the old? I know it has to be "aluminum" friendly but what brand and where do you get it? I am about to change mine for the first time (for me).
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First, I would like to thank Monty for the basic idea which I then modified. I have attached pictures of the the final product: somewhat crude but functional..the back plate is removable for winter riding. Currently, vent pointing downward but can be removed and turned 180 degree for warm air upwards..... Material: Aluminum flashing----$10.00 Aluminum Vent-------$ 2.00 Hardest part was making a template: first paper and then basic template in aluminum...and lots of patient and trimming.
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Well I guess since I decided to keep my 99, I might as well go for broke! This year all I planned to do was put on a new ignition switch, and 4 new intake manifolds. BUT....as most of us Venture riders know, it never stops with just this or just that. So I have decided to buy a head set, a gps unit, the ignition switch, 4 intake manifolds and get this.....A TRAILER! But....not just any trailer....a custom built to my specs trailer. All aluminum framework, aluminum diamond plate lids, aluminum flatstock walls d/a'ed for a nice look. The trailer is 4' long by 3' wide by 3' deep for the storage portion. But in front of the storage portion will be a 1' by 3' cooler with a lid that opens seperate from the back. It will have double walls with insulation in between them and a built in drain on the bottom. I'm STOKED! the plans are being drawn up on a computer program today, and my uncle will be starting on the production before spring. He works for a company that customizes fire trucks, so he likes to do some little projects for fun, and we have been kicking around this idea for about a year. I'll be sure to put up some pics when we get it underway! Will look very similar to the top two pics in this page http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://allstartrailers.com/images/mct_and_mctxl_motorcycle_trailers2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://allstartrailers.com/Motorcycle_Trailers.html&usg=__dIsVkBlOWrvx9VwmjYusculAzO4=&h=1944&w=2592&sz=1317&hl=en&start=20&um=1&tbnid=VmypOopCxBGwBM:&tbnh=113&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmotorcycle%2Btrailers%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1 YEE HA!!! Big Mike
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I need to put 2 new rivets in one of my bub mufflers to hold the chrome tip on. I was told not to use aluminum however, if I use steel, they will rust. I haven't seen any stainless steel rivets. Has anyone had trouble with using aluminum? Like I said, I don't want them to rust. Not attractive. Thanks Greg
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I added these a whlie back and thought some one else might be interested.I added the Signal Dynamics light bar under the trunk and the Yamaha spoiler with brake light, and decided I wanted some turn signals up high to match.I ordered a set of 3 inch light bars from Custom Dynamics in clear with a chrome base.They light up amber.You can also order them with a red or amber lense and also with a black base.I think they were about $45.I wanted them to blend in with the antennae when I got them mounted.I bought a 1 inch wide piece of aluminum to cut the mounting brackets out of.I then Wrapped the wires in electical tape and ran them down and under the trunk with the coax from the antennae,and then to the wires behind the tag.Attached to the coax with small zip ties. I really like them and they blend in with the antennae.You don't even notice them until they light up.I also polished the aluminum mounting brackets so they shine pretty good.
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to LED's. I bought 1 1/4" X 3 1/2" LED's from J & P Cycle, REAL nice people, the entire experience with them was first class. The rear LED's fit perfectly inside the existing reflectors. Just popped the reflectors out, drilled another hole to accept the wires and ran them thru the crash bar. On the front I replaced the reflectors totally with the new LED's. I had to make a backing plate out of aluminum with a stainless flat head screw thru the lower portion. Not wanting to make the wires bulky I merely taped them with black electrical tape and ran them with the brake line. I didn't attach them to the line but I think I can find some stand offs to keep them in place if they start moving. The LED's are 1 1/4" wide and the smallest aluminum flat I could find was 1 1/2" so I cut them down with my band saw, knocked the corners off and went to work with 180 girt paper. With some patience and a lot of rubbing I managed to come up with 4 smooth edges on each one and nice radius on the corners. To set the stainless ( 12/32 X 3/4" ) screw in the plate I drilled, put a champfer in it and locked it in place with it's nut then used a nail set to 'marry' the aluminum to the screw head. Then just for insurance I put a drop of crazy glue on the head and the underside. I neglected to take a picture of the front mounting plate but it's pretty simple once it's shaped to the LED. Thanks to all that have already done this conversion, it ended up a fairly easy chore. So - thanks for posting your methods and results
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Well I finally am building my trailer here are a few pics. I cut down a HF trailer to 30 inches wide and CNC'D the diamond plate at work. I still have to mount my diamond plate bumper along witl my LED lights. I put a slot in for a divider which will be for the dog when we take him. I am making 2 different tops. A solid one for regular use and one with a cutout with a little high rise box with widows with screens for air intake and I also have to put one more exhaust in the back that will have 3 small computer fans (which will draw as little power as LEDs) to pull the air through. I have to finish the cooler rack which I will line with orange acrylic and then polish the aluminum then the flames will be orange from the outside. I am going to make it so I can take it off the trailer and mount it to my hitch platform when not using the trailer. I am going to get someone to tig weld all my seams to make it water tight and I should be good to go after I put the fenders (with diamondplate mudflaps with small flames cut out in them. It should be sharp when its done if I can find some hubcaps that will fit the 8 inch wheels as the ones I see say they are for golf carts and they are different rims. Anyway let me know what you think. When its all done I will only have about $350 into it as I got all my aluminum at cost and programmed the CNC myself and cut it on my own time. (its nice having a key to the shop) And being that it is aluminum it is very light. Paul
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OK everyone a decision was made to purchase a Brand New Aluma MCT 13.4 cubic ft Trailer with the following equipment to be given away on Wednesday Night August the 5th,2009. You will have your choice of color,I think the colors are Black,Pewter,Yellow,Blue,Red and a few more including a Diamond Plate all Aluminum Trailer. These trailers have the Dexter Torflex Axle,Cooler Rack,LED Lights,Mag type wheels and ALL aluminum construction.They are a fantastic pulling trailer as I personally own one and for those concerned about sway,well I have tried every way I can to make it sway,Loaded and Empty..It will not! Here are a few pictures and specs listed below! BUY YOU TICKETS NOW,there is a very good chance of winning this trailer. Cinderella will be announcing more exciting prizes to follow! 600# Rubber torsion axle - Easy lube hubs 12" Aluminum tires & wheels Aluminum fenders Overall length = 85" Overall width = 45" 1-7/8" Coupler Lockable lid with over-lapping lip for waterproof protection Luggage rack on lid Cooler tray with tie loops on tongue LED Lighting package, 5 round harness Rubber-mounted rear lights Gas-cylinder assisted lid Tongue stand 13.4 cubic feet volume Available in aluminum treadplate and cargo colors Trailer Use This Link To Buy Tickets or Tees! http://dchwestfall.com/2009_VentureRider_Rally.html
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Hello, I have a damaged lower triple tree on my '87 VR. Mine is aluminum . I got one on Ebay that is steel yet is supposedly off an '88. Maybe I was sent a Vmax tree? Did they change these on the Venture and if so, when? I would have thought the 1200s may be steel but not the 1st gen.1300. As you know the Venture 1300 got heavier and Yamaha likely went to aluminum from the original steel.Can you 1st gen guys PLEASE check with a magnet if your lower tree is steel or aluminum. I will try to post a poll. Bottom line, I need a good aluminum lower tree like mine. And with everyone's feedback I will know which years to surely not to look at on Ebay. Thanks in advance. Email me if you wish.
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Trying to decide which of these "Safety Chrome" items to get....been looking for a while... Ebay product is Polished Aluminum..... about $155.00 to Virginia... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-YAMAHA-XVZ13-ROYAL-STAR-VENTURE-RADIATOR-GRILLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1494Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem270370394405QQitemZ270370394405QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories The other is by "Custom World International"...Cruiser Customizing has it for $120.00 to Virginia...Chromed Steel....Phat Performance has them for about $145.00 plus delivery.... http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=42&Category_ID=7&manufacturer_ID=6&product_ID=22764 Anyone here have either of these and could you comment about Polished Aluminum versus..Chromed Steel.....No Rust on Aluminum....Right>>>>> Thanks in advance George In Virginia
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Actually, that first pic is a Katana we bought when everything that is yellow was PINK and changed the color and re-sold. This is the first fitting of the fairing Shep had started. (Have modified it a little bit since and have some more adjusting to go) Will get more pics soon. I fab'ed the brackets from diamond plate aluminum, They are braced behind with 1/4" thick aluminum strap. Rode very well with just a little additional bounce up around 85 or so. Since then, have leaned it back a little more and squared it up a little better - solved the bounce problem. Using Stainless bolts and nuts everywhere. Went with an 8" dark smoke shield and deflectors. It is just about the perfect height - kind of wish would have gone with 9" but that might have been a little to much - Can see about 2-3 inches over it right now and topping a hill in the dark, you lose the road until you clear the crest so I think the 9" would have been to much. Plan on dropping it about another 1/4 to 1/2" to get it to wrap around the headlight a little better and filling the gap above the speedo with dark smoke acrylic. We have the stereo and speakers sitting in the office. We are just waiting to do the cleanup on the old speedo and tach holes and filling them and all the excess openings with fiberglass. Then it's waiting for a nice warm day to paint it. Trying to find a neat looking 2.25" Thermometer and clock on the cheap but no luck yet. I suspect we will fill the two small round holes with smoke plexi and stick on a clock and thermometer that we can find. More to come later - right now, building the house is taking precedence. Will update the RSTD Owners Unite thread when I have time.
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I Love the other mods for the passenger floorboards they have been great idea's! I was even making a set until I talked with GunnyButch and had him shoot me so photos and with the new conversion to trike I can not have them in that area. Finding Afterwords that my wife needs more forward leg room anyways do to an old injury. she needs to stretch them while riding once in a while. so going down-word will not make her happy.... After saying that.. This is what I came up with on my proto type. I made my templates out of Aluminum (easier cutting and drilling) In this proto type I used the aluminum that I had laying around. the angle was 2 inch. ( will go to 1" Steel) But you must use a 1 inch die aluminum rod for the pegs to bolt on perfect (peg clamp). I will be making the bottom support out of steel painted black, the round aluminum will be polished like chrome when I am done The length now on the rod is at 6 inches long. Just want to make sure the height requirement before I cut to the right size and round the top. I also used the same Kuryakyn Pegs as I use for the front (7980 Longhorn Dually 1" clamp) I got to thinking of Dons Center Stand, and bolted to the same spot he did. also adding two large hose clamp on each side of that helped as well for even more support to the bikes frame on the underside. Anyways , shoot away with any comments you have so I can learn and maybe even make this better. Not having the center stand anymore, I am thinking that even if you still had one on there you could use longer bolts and still be able to attach at the same point. Here are some pics.. [ATTACH]26871[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]26872[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]26873[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]26874[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]26875[/ATTACH] I have a few other idea's and I will Post when this project is complete If it seems to be a winner I will to a write-up on the dimensions of it .
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Hello all, Sorry it's been awhile since I've checked in. Between the Weather out here [WA] and the Holidays in general...well, I've been just down right busy. anyway, here's my winter project for Trigger. I was able to pick up the Harley batwing fairing off of ebay. it did come with some nice mounts, but unfortunately and evidently, the Heritage and the RS forks are not quite set up the same...so I went about creating my own. I started off by making a cardboard template, which i then transfered to wood. This worked out pretty good actually, the 1/4" plywood is soft enough and easy enough to work with, yet strong enough to hold the fairing. Once i got the wood templates aligned to my liking, i then used them, to create the soon to be perminate mounts out of aluminum angle iron. The harder part is going to be in the finializing of the lower fairing mounts. I was able to bend up a couple of pieces of scrap aluminum flat bar...but it's just not all that pretty. Which brings me to the latter steps of "paint". All black or two tone to match Trigger's current color scheme. As always any thought and suggests would be greatly appreciated. OH...one more thing. [As i climb onto my soap box] This is absolutely, the best place for "free" help and information in regards to our two wheeled loved ones. Please consider making a small donation to this site. I know it's appreciated by those that run it and those of us that use it. Thx Ron. and now for the pix.... http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/20081121-001sm.jpghttp://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/20081121-002sm.jpg http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/20081121-013sm.jpg http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/20081121-020sm.jpg http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/20081121-022sm.jpg http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/20081130-Front.jpg http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/20081130-Mount.jpg http://home.centurytel.net/malizia/RS/BatWingPics/20081204-Left.jpg
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Prep Luggage for painting
timgray posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I am repainting my 83 this winter. In the process of prepping, I'm stripping everything off the painted parts for a color change. I drilled out the rivets to seperate the trunk and saddlebags into halves and got everything off them except for the aluminum sealing trim. I really want this off for the painting so that the final job looks it's best. I removed all screws and drilled out every rivet yet I still cant get this stuff to release fro mthe plastic trunk and saddlebag halves. any tricks to removing this without breaking the trunk or scraping up the aluminum trim/seal track?
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