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Showing results for tags 'airbox'.
Found 20 results
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I posted a little while back about this, and I've made some progress. I was having tranny issues so I did an oil change and previous to that threw some SeaFoam in the case for about 20 miles, it seems to have cleared things up quite a bit, while as earlier I could only shift If I toggled the back wheel back-n-forth, and pressed crazy hard, now I shift with almost no effort if the bikes moving. My question then is three-fold. 1. Is it normal that when you go into gear from start that the bike jerks forward a little bit even with the clutch in? it's kind of sounds like a big "CLICK" puts the gear in place a jerks a bit as it does so. Is that normal? I've never had a bike that does that 2. Why is that I can almost never get into first when I'm not moving? 2nd's usually ok, but 1st refuses to go unless I rock forward a bit, is that normal? and 3. It probably sounds like a stupid question to you guys who are so familiar with Ventures, but where's the air filter on this bike? Thanks! James
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I work overnights and last week on two different mornings the bike turned over but would not start at first. I cranked it repeatedly and after awhile it was like flipping a light switch it started. Figured it was the plug wires from the morning dew. I changed the wires and the plug caps over the weekend and rode it to work Monday. Tuesday morning it would crank and occasionally pop but not fire up. I even pulled the top of the airbox off and gave it a good shot of starting fluid and it still would not start. I left it sit and caught a ride home from a coworker. Went to work last night when it was warm and dry out and it started with the touch of the button. The tci has been moved to the top of the airbox and is covered. I can ride in the rain without any issues. When it's popping and not starting it almost sounds like the timing is off, and will all of a sudden backfire through the exhaust. Could this be corrosion in the plug to the pick-up? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Ray -
Got a busted 87 that I am gonna turn into a chopper. What will it take to have the bike run well with no airbox at all? The mods to the frame are not going to allow for the airbox to be used. -
I'm new to the Ventureriders forums, but want to say thanks to all that have posted. I purchased a 2006 RSTD Midnight about a month ago with 12,000 miles on it. I bought it from a local Harley dealership, so don't know how it was maintained. All was fine until I went to work two weeks ago. The bike ran like it was running on 2 cylinders and had no power. A guy at work shamed me into paying the $12.00 to become a full member. Best money I have ever spent. Been busy at work so haven't had time to work on it until the night before last. Some post I have read said it sounded like a stuck float or a plugged jet. I tried to tap the carbs after shutting off the gas...etc. Well I thought it was time to pull the carbs and clean them. Thinking 12,000 miles on a 5 year old bike wasn't all that much and the bike may have sat for some time. I decided to grab some spark plugs, oil and filter, and a CarbTuneII ($50.00 on Ebay), brakes, and an Avon Venom rear tire. Started tearing the bike apart. pulled the seat, then the tank. When I went to pull the Airbox, I noticed the two boots that connect the airbox to the carbs were loose and had some oil on the carbs. I pulled the airbox and cleaned the oil from the boots and the carbs, replace the spark plugs, synced the carbs, change the oil, changed the brakes, and replaced the rear tire. The bike is running fantastic now. I want to get out for a ride but the rainy Ohio weather is keeping me in. Everything I did to the bike in the last two days I learned here on this forum. I have to say it would have cost me well over $12.00 to have the steelership work on it.... Just wanted to say thanks.
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Two questions, anyone know the dimensions for the fuel hoses? Nice to have bought the right stuff before I ripp it apart...5, 6mm or something really odd? the two breath hoses connected under the airbox, is there a mod that doesn't upset anything that makes things a bit easier regarding assemble? Wouldn't it be possible to connect it differently? 80% of the time of working off the airbox, playing with the carbs and reconnect everything is that airbox hose... regards
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While performing some routine maintenance on my bike, I removed both sides of the (what I call airbox) under the tank, that connects the hose from the airfilters into the carbs and found that they were wet with oil inside them. The foam gaskets that mount the two sides together were pretty wet with oil as well. Is this an issue or normal occurence? At first I was thinking it was fuel since they open to the carbs, but it was definitely oil. Where is that coming from? They were not dripping wet and there was more on the left side than right, but it was enough to get my attention. Thanks Mongo
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Just got done relocating the TCI to the top of the airbox and while I was at it found the boost sensor to be bad and replaced it. Thanks to a popular member here, I was able to do so fairly quickly. Anyhow, now that the TCI is on top of the airbox, I am concerned with it getting hot due to the lack of cooling airflow around it. In its original location, while moving forward at any speed, air flow I think flowed around the TCI providing a cooling effect. Even though that air had passed through the radiator, I am pretty sure it was a lot cooler than the air that will now surround it being on top of the airbox. If this is correct, what would be the effect? Could that hotter air lessen the longevity of the TCI? Or am just one of those Mr. Fulla Schitt that I was reading about a few minutes ago? -
I am looking at moving my TCI to the airbox but I can't see how to remove it from the stock location. I have the battery box out and don't want to remove the fairing. Can anyone tell me how this thing is mounted? Thanks
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Last fall I picked up a Kawasaki KZ440A LTD off Craigslist for $200. The previous owner was tired of paying someone to keep fixing it and was frustrated at his inability to get it running. The clutch wasn’t working and it wouldn’t idle. The airbox was missing but all the electrical items worked (except the horn). He had just put new tires on it and had the brakes done – including having the fluid changed. I put it on a trailer and dragged it home to join my other project bikes in the workshop. While my Dad was here over Easter, we took apart the clutch and found the adjustment mechanism had been adjusted beyond its limit and a nut had fallen off. We put it back together and the clutch works great. I looked at the horn and one of the connectors had fallen off. Put it back on and it now works. Found an airbox (the LTD airbox is rare to find in one piece) at a boneyard in Oklahoma. It had the mounting tab broken off but still costs $70. A complete airbox was going for $140 minimum on Ebay, so I bought this one and repaired it. Got it to start, but it wouldn’t run worth a darn. Tore off the carbs and took them apart. They were fairly clean, but the diaphragms were ripped. Found a company that made and sold new diaphragms and purchased a set for $29 each (plus shipping - $67 total). Installed them, put the carbs back together and put them on the bike. Ran better, but not well. Downloaded a shop manual for the bike from a KZ forum and went to work tuning the carbs. Checked the float height (they were spot on), drilled out the covers over the mixture screws and set them to the proper setting. Set the valve gaps in the engine (they weren’t too far off). BTW, this is the easiest bike to set valve gaps I have ever seen – nice design. Set up an auxiliary fuel supply in a water bottle, hooked up the Morgan Carbtune, and sync’d the carbs (has to be done with the tank off). Not too far off, but enough to cause problems. When I went to put it all back together, I noticed the previous owner had not hooked up the vacuum hoses to the right locations and didn’t have one of the vacuum ports capped as it should be. Just happen to have a selection of rubber caps in the shop and found one that fit. Bought a new battery since the old one was 11 years old and didn’t like holding a charge. Took the fairing off an old Vulcan and put it on this bike. Fits great. Turned the rear shocks up to the maximum spring rate setting to handle my fat butt on it. Tightened the chain and lubed it. Once I got all this done, I put the tank back on, hit the starter and it fired right up. It now idles smoothly at 1200 RPM and runs beautifully up to at least 60 MPH. No plates on it so I was only running around the immediate area. This is going to be a fun bike for the boys to ride. A little small for me to travel any distance on, but just fine for pounding around town. Attached are some pictures. Notice the tires. They both still have the color stripe around the tread. Can’t be 100 miles on them. They’re worth what I paid for the bike. Total cost - $200 purchase, $70 airbox, $67 diaphragms, $5 sparkplugs, $50 battery, $4 sheet of lawn mower air cleaner material (cut to shape to fit the airbox), $4 oil filter, various hardware (replaced all removed Phillips head screws with cap head equivalents) about $10 = $410.00 1 down, 2 to go. Suzuki 750 is next.
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Yanno, that one from the pickle thing to the airbox? Mine is hard and somewhat breaking at the top and as you know, it can take 45 minutes at times to get that hose on the bottom of the airbox. So, just order another one from yammi, get hose from AutoZone that is a bit longer or is there another solution? -
Hi All, I have an 83 Venture Royale, with an 86 1300 in it. I also have a parts bike, 83 VR with 1200. The 1200 has a plain airbox lid, while my other one (1300) has a lid with an apparatus on the front part, that has a 4 pin square connector with 3 wires on it, and a separate spade terminal wire. It also has a red LED which is lit at idle, but when the engine is revved up, the LED goes out. What is this apparatus, and is it for the 86 engine, or something that was originally on the 83. This bike also has the Markland cruise control, which isn't working right now, but that is another post...?? I am just curious as to what this device is? Size is about 3-4 in. wide by 2in. deep -
Hello everyone, Happy New Year!! I have a situation that I need some help with. My 1996 Royal Star wound up with a mouse nest in the airbox, unknown to me, and has been ingested into the motor. The nest seems to be just soft debris. What if any problems could come from this? -
I just bought a 1984 venture Royale 1200 that runs perfect but has leaky carbs. Before I tear into them, I was wondering what would be considered the best bvang for the buck on the intake and exhaust. Nothing like asking those with a background. I found several threads but not about both together. I have heard about a k&N filter, multiple pods with airbox removal, and tons of ideas on the exhaust and the carb jetting. I guess I'd like to just get it all broken down to the ins and outs of things! -
Was installing new diaphragms/sliders tonight. When I pulled #2, there was so much oil inside the cover that it even dripped out when I removed the final allen head. That was the only one like that. What in the world could cause excessive oil build up in the diaphragm. There is a minimal amount of oil that had accumulated in the airbox being brought up through the crankcase vent but nothing alarming. Even if oil we to accumulate in excess in the airbox, I doubt it could find its way to the diaphragm. It was running fairly well before and since I have had four new sliders/diaphragms I figured I go ahead and get them installed. Any ideas about the oil? Thanks all!
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I am getting ready to relocate my TCI box. I almost have it released from the current convenient location and I would like to put it on top of the airbox. It sounds like some of you have routed the 2 connector cables up the left (?) side if the airbox. Once disconnected from the TCI is there enough slack in the 2 cables that they can be slid up the side without removing that darn box? How did you secure the TCI to the airbox lid? Also, my connector cables were puked on from the old battery right where the wires enter the white plastic connector. Is there a "best way" to clean that stuff off without damaging the wires? Thanks Kevin
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I usually just lurk, but all of a sudden my 01 RSV decided it wanted to leak fuel through the left airbox. BTW, I changed the plugs, test road it and it was okay. Two days later I ride it and smell gas. Today I start it, turn it off, and fuel comes out of the airbox. Any suggestions? tx, Bob
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OK, y'all, I'm looking for results here. Who out there has drilled holes in their VR airbox, and what were the results? How big and how many holes? Did you track mileage? Power impressions? Intake noise impressions? Did you leave it or put it back (tape over the holes)? Any other airbox mods? I know the bike won't run w/o the airbox with the stock carbs. I know some dealers have made a standard practice of certain holes a certain way. I'm asking for YOUR results. I'm working on mine which I'll add soon. Any takers? Jeremy
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I've read a number of posts on the VR airbox but don't remember much on the square "stack" in the middle of the filter element. What's its purpose - mainly intake noise abatement perhaps? Has anybody removed or shortened it? Its top edge, stock, is between 1/2" and 3/4" from the underside of the filter element. Any results to report? I know the box is very sensitve to having the top on, and some people like to have some 1/2" holes in the top. But this stack looks like a "flow torture device" to me! Jeremy
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Hello All, Let me run this by you, and I will try to keep it short. I bought this '87 as a fixer upper. Right away I saw that I needed Carb Diaphrams -- wow over $200. I found what was supposed to be a rebuilt carb on ebay for $200. I asked if it had new Diaphrams, Needles and Seats, he said it did, so how could I go wrong. Got it and put it on -- had to turn the idle screws out 5 turns to get it to run. Decided my old carb was probly better, so today I put the diaphrams, needles and seats in my old carb after taking it apart and soaking it in Sea Foam for 4 days. It started like a champ. With the Filter and airbox cover off it rips. (This is all on the center stand) when I put the cover on it dogs out at about 4500 RPM --- air starved, me thinks. Just a note, I have not synced yet. I saw some talk on here about drilling th airbox and some hopping up procedures, could some of my parts be needing the airbox drilled or... Any observations are welcome. Thanks D
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Here's a fairly dumb question, but I was just going to put the K&N's (ya-1399) in my '06 RSTD and looking at the directions it isn't real clear on whether to stick the included gaskets to the filter or to the airbox. I'm assuming the sticky tape side of the gasket affixes to the airbox and then the filter mashes down on top and is screwed in but I just thought I'd double check first before with you guys before I do it wrong and get a bad seal.
