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Hola, My first post on this site. I am syre the air filter replacement procedures are not difficult on my 2008 RSTD but I am not sure of them. Do I need to remove the cowling? Are there any technical docs on this subject? Thanks:97: Knifeeven
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i have a 84 vr and have a komfort kruz kit on it (something like a voyager kit) my air ride is not working properly and the belly plate bottoms out sometimes (not good) and it was sugested that i replace the air shock with a standerd shock--???? p.s. thanks to all for your help on all the threads i have posted ride safe ride free--dave -
I'm looking for a new tent to replace the one I've had since I was in my teens. Which is a 6' dome tent. It still suits me fine when I'm alone, but my better half dosen't like it very much. She's not big on camping like I am. So I got her an air mattress to make her more comfortable, but it won't fit in my dinky little dome tent. I borrowed my parents tent a few times and depended on tents others brought with them that were big enough to put the air mattress in for the past few years. But I feel like a mooch when I do that. Due to her bad back, I need a tent that is big enough to stand up in. And big enough to sleep about 6, so we have enough room to put down two mattresses if need be and/or to put all the extra gear in out of the weather if needed to. I'm looking for a dome tent that big but not to heavy and not take up a lot of room in the trailer. I was also hoping not to spend any more than $150 - $250. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks, Bill
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looks interesting. was wondering if anyone tried it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/120813345975?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649.
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As I've been going through bikes recently the prospect of spending $ 40 + dollars for a new air filter makes me squirm. Now I'm not the first person to do this, and a friend of mine did a little show and tell himself a few years back. While I was work one day I was inter-noodling and found that UNI-Filter ( makers of foam filters ) was only about 10 miles away from me. With a bit of snooping I found that UNI Filter sells a replacement filter for my bike for about $ 32. Being the KLR-like rider that I am I could buy a 12 x 16 inch sheet of UNI Filter foam for only $ 14.99 so that's what I did. I zipped out at lunch, and picked up some filter element The camera was handy so I figured I'd expend a little effort, and share my actions with you all. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534557_EgHYf-M.jpg Here's the filter element along with some required tools. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534521_MffM5-M.jpg Here's the dirty starting point. This is the air filter from my 88 Venture Royale. I only added the Royale in there because I like saying "Royale". It's about $ 45 to replace at the local Yamaha store. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534322_nconm-M.jpg http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534341_qoYLp-M.jpg I started hacking out the paper filter element with a pair of scissors, and box cutter. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534373_FL4WN-M.jpg I was being careful not to jack up the wire backing. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534393_8eoUd-M.jpg// That's a long hunk'o'paper. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534416_gM8Qo-M.jpg I then used needle nose pliers to pull out the sticky bits. Notice that foam sealing ring is also rotten. I'll pull that off, and replace it too. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534442_4coxT-M.jpg Here's the filter cage cleaned up and ready to start construction. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534489_CyTcQ-M.jpg I cut the filter element to fit. Make it a little thicker than needed so it'll bond better. No matter which way I cut it, it required two sections. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534585_cUgLM-M.jpg Before the next step where I was going to handle smelly, sticky stuff I had to start dinner. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534566_Nh9Sa-M.jpg While I was at UniFilter I asked the guy who was helping me what I should use to glue down the foam he recommended some brand of industrial glue, which I didn't have. He also mentioned that I could use silicone gasket sealer, and I had that so I was off to the races, and started laying a bead. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534603_kR69x-M.jpg Here it is stuck in place. I used a strip of packing tape over the joint and let it sit for the night. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534667_M4PqW-M.jpg After drying up for 24 hours I went back at it with the silicone to make doubly sure it's well mounted, because remember that in the future you'll be squeezing, and squishing this when you clean it. I stopped at LOWE's on the way home, and picked up some foam tape for $ 2.43. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534743_RKz2P-M.jpg It's ready to use, and I still have over half of the filter foam left to use on another bike or two. :thumb
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Will this work with the front end lowered? http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=58318&store=&catId=416&productId=p58318&leafCatId=41606 to check the air right now, I have to remove the handle bar. Does this take more room then the regular air valve at the top of the forks? -
Has any put Baker Air Wings on their 1st gen? I got upper, mid, and lower ones but the two upper ones you have to drill into the fairing. No I' m not crazy about doing this. I wondering if anyone has had any problems with the fairing cracking eventually from the drilling? Do you like them?
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My bike is pushing 76,000 and I've never messed with the air drier. I read somewhere u can remove the desiccant and dry it back out in a low heat oven. Has anyone tried that?
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On my previous bike I played with jetting a lot. In the end, I had more power (not verified with factual evidence) but I lost about five mpg. I have read comments here about carb mods and I am very hesitant to try anything for fear I might not be pleased with the results. Does anyone have dyno runs or other data regarding changes to carbs or air intake?
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I'm looking at a used '06 Royal Star.... I've always been a fan of the Venture line, ever since they came out in '83. But what really DOESN'T do it for me is that fugly shroud that goes over the air intakes and blocks air across the legs. My question is: can that gawd-awful thing be removed without jacking up something else or affecting the engine intake? Like does it also support something else, etc.? Thanks to any and all.
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As part of my changeover to the MKII forks on 83, I am wanting to slide the forks up a little in the tripple tree. When I changed my springs to Progressives, even though I did not use any spacers on the springs, it raised the front of my bike up some. I will be transfering these springs and won't be using any air and wondering if any others had done this and what did they do about the holes where the air goes into the tube. I suspect the holes will be up under the clamped area, but feel they would still need some type of seal to keeping from leaking shock fluid. RandyA -
Have seeb that in a fair amount of user pics, the TCI/CDI box is on top of the air box under the false tank. I'm guessing this is done to keep the unit cool, as it wouldn't be sitting directly over the engine. Is this a model year difference (I've got a Mk2 87) or is it a after-market user modification? In mine, it looks like its mounted to a frame rail. I noticed this as I've been looking at wiring and fuse block upgrade threads, and saw the box, and wasn't sure if it was an aftermarket or moving the original. Can't find a thread talking about it, so figured I would have to ask. Glenn in Tucson
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I just bought a new RSV. I am looking for a solution to reducing the air flow off my upper legs. Is there a vent / deflector out there to cut some of the air? In the summer, not a problem. In the winter, I can see this will be a cold spot on my legs. I checked the Yamaha catalog and they have a set that mount on the outside of the lower fairing. This is great for the lower legs. Thanks.
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after reading some of the threads about the shocks I bought a gauge/pump and put air in shocks. 260 mile trip for lunch and icecream yesterday and what a differance putting air in the shocks made. No more jarring of the back everytime I hit a bump. I love this site.
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Looking to replace my Larin MC jack (MAL-2C). The jack bottle died, second one to do that. (but must admit it does not get used often) Also, the balance with the Venture on it is very poor, actually downright scarry. Seems to be a toss up between the Pit Bull and the J&S. Want something sturdy, good balance with a Venture in the air, and good warranty. I do alerady have Carbon One's adapter. I may see what's at the IMS this weekend in Atlanta. Suggestions? Thanks, Mike G
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i was wondering if anyone has an air hawk seat cushion and what they think of it? we are thinking of getting some but are they worth the money? thanks mike and t
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Okay I searched the forum and found some good info, however I guess my question is a little different. I am 5'8'' and would llike to be able to extend my legs out from the floorboards when on the highway. As we all know the summer and highway heat can at times add to the heat off the engine. I really don't care to have the lower air deflectors added. Could anyone with some insight on this subject please comment. We have a 5 day trip to the Texas hill country scheduled at the end of September and really like to have some pegs in place by then. Thanks
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hi all hope the new year is a better one for all. it has come time for me to sell my '99 rsv motor trike. it has just over 31,000 miles on it. squidly ( brad ) will help me this weekend to post pictures on the site. also for sell is a m/c jack lift, a lift adapter, a carbtune, a front fork air pressure pump, and a progressive rear shock pump, which can also be used to top off air pressure in the tires. the price of the trike is $10,250.00 which is the pay off on the trike. i have a clear title to the trike as i found a independet finance source. i also have two color matched helments that will go with the trike. the pull behind trailer that i have had for a few years will also be for sell. i will still be a part of this site but will be just bike less for some time. best reguards don c. my e-mail addie is dcumps1950@yahoo.com phone # is 832-265-6236
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After our near-death experience last night while driving home in the Silverado 4X4, there will be no more feet-dragging on getting a very loud air horn installed on the RSV. As we rounded a country road curve heading toward our subdivision at about 6:30pm, a small white car came screaming at us at what had to be 55+ mph in a 35 zone, heading right at us - in our lane! How we avoided the head-on collision is a miracle, but it involved some intuitive accident-avoidance techniques and a damn loud horn. That little car and the idiot driving (who I'm guessing was on their phone) just missed us, ran off the road back on their side, found their way back on to the blacktop and disappeared in the darkness. My wife and I just sat there and couldn't believe what had just happened. I have to admit that I've been in some close calls before, but that one really shook me up. I've been meaning to install the Stebel air horn for some time now, but never got the bracket to get the job done. That will be rectified this weekend! There are just too many cell phone addicts out there who can't stop texting or Tweeting while driving, and it's gotten too dangerous to not do everything possible to get their attention when they cross the line. My riding and driving skills are good, but they aren't enough sometimes, and my wimpy-a$$ horn is just useless in that regard. Be safe out there, and if you don't have a very loud ear piercing horn on your bike, you need to get one.
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Hi, Odd question about air pressure gauges. I have been carrying a stick type for some time and all has been well. The other day I stopped at a tire shop to top off the tires before a long ride. The air hose had a built in gauge and was reading almost 8 lbs different than my stick gauge. Is there that much difference in air gauges? If so, can someone recommend a specific brand or type to be more accurate? I thought about a digital gauge, but I assume it can be just as off. Thanks Dave 06 RSTD Pearl White.
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These are the videos I promised on replacing the seals on a Gen 1. I did not document the entire breakdown. I assume we all know how to remove the calipers, antidives, & remove the front tire. This video starts as if you were doing progressives spring upgrade. The write up on here from skydoc was very easy to follow. I did use an impact gun for the 18mm allen bolts under the forks as they were spinning when I tried to remove them by hand. I used 5wt oil & have 8lbs of air in my class with progressive springs. It was recommended I use 7wt, but I could not find it. I have 15wt in it before but that was too harsh. befor the summe I will change the oil again. The best wt for me at 225lbs is either 7wt or 10wt w/o any air in the forks. I will figure that out! REMOVING THE SEALS [ame= ] [/ame] REASSEMBLY [ame= ] [/ame] I've put 50 miles on my bike & the forks seals are holding perfectly! I would be happy to answer any questions if you're planning to do it. -
Help? Front Fork Air Pressure
V4ME posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
How much air pressure should be in my front forks?? I don't think I have any air in them after checking with a guage. ( 99 ROYAL STAR BLVD. STD.) Any tips on front fork maintance would help, I have never had air front forks before! PLEASE REPLY ASAP! :confused24: -
I posted this else where and thought this might help someone else to. So copy and paste and add a little and here it is. I like doing my own, I know it is done to suit me. I changed my rear tire today. Here is how; http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=555 #1. Mark the axle position at the side with the pinch bolt line, make a line with the corner edge of a flat file and you will always have it there. Remove the rear wheel. The axle will come out easily if you turn the axle at the Allen head side (rotor side) and pull at the same time. #2. Take the valve out of the tire. Mark the valve placement with the tire location on the old tire and the new tire for location. Make sure you get the tire on in the correct rotational direction. Motorcycle tires are rotational oriented. They have arrows showing the direction of travel. If you have tires that have the balance dot, then if this is the case, the balance dot should line up with the valve and supposed to be balanced. #3. Put the wheel on some small pieces of 2" X 4" or 4" X 4" works best, one on each side of rim in a place that you can back a pick up or some vehicle up to it. #4. I used a 8' long 4"x4" and a 8" inch piece of 4"x4' to put onto the tire edge close the rim, 1/2" or so on tire edge and from the rim. Back a vehicle up to the tire location. I used a pick up with a ball hitch on it and pried under the ball mount stinger. There are tools made for this, but I do not have one yet. I am thinking of adding something to the side of my garage wall and have a friend weld me up a tool for this. #5. Put the long 4"x4" on top the short piece of 4"x4" and under the vehicle/hitch,bumper or what ever to get leverage. #6. Pry down and the tire will brake loose from the rim fairly easy on the first or second try. #7. I use a cheap set of tire irons from JC Whitney. They are 12" long and come with rim covers to keep from damaging your rim. Two sets are nice to have. Only about 10 -14 dollars a set. Remove the tire while the rim is still on the 4"x4" short pieces you laid your rim on. ( The back side is a little tricky, but will come off. I laid my tire with the brake rotor down for this part.) #8. Once you have the tire removed, use a fine wire brush to remove any black junk from the inside rim edge and inside the rim. I used a copper pipe cleaning tool. Then I used WD 40 & PB Blaster to spray on a cloth and wipe the inside of my rim. Cleans it very well after you brush the rim edge and rim on both sides. If you have a plastic 50 gallon barrel, it works great for a bench to work on the new tire and rim. #9. Now orient your tire in the correct direction of travel according to the arrows on the tire and your rim direction of forward travel. #10. Have your self some dish liquid from the kitchen (or regular tire liquid from auto store) to put on the tire edge and the rim edge. Only put the liquid on one side of the tire at a time. Start the tire on and apply pressure to a point that you will need to put the rim protectors on the rim and begin prying the tire on. Only 2-3 inches at a time. Just takes a 3-4 minutes and if you cleaned your rim and lubricated the tire and rim, no problem at all. I can put the front tire on with my bare hands and no tools. #11. Now that you have the tire on, very important to align the tire in the corect spot according to your marks or dot on the tire. Pay close attention to this as you proceed to the next step. #12. Have yourself a small ratchet strap. Put the strap on the tire in the center of the tire and cinch it up tight. Also align the tire edge and rim together as you do this. Pay attention to the markings to keep the tire in the right position. #13. Replace the air valve in the rim. Air the tire and see if it will take air, if not check for problem spot and fix it. Make sure tire is in right position. Make sure you get enough air in the tire to get it to pop onto the rim all the way (watch the fingers !). Check the rim once you hear the pop and make sure it is properly attached all the way around. If not add more air until it is. Set at proper air pressure, factory says 42 rear and 36 front. I personally go a little more because I weigh 278 lb. #14. Now clean and follow these instructions before putting the tire and wheel back on.http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263 AND http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 #15. Check air pressure again and put the tire and wheel back on. Put the axle in at the mark you made and align all completely. A real good tech section on putting the wheel back on correctly is http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 AND http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4660 Pay special attention to properly aligning the axle to the mark you made, filed my mark into the pinch bolt line, tightening the acorn nuts and aligning the wheel and dive link properly and getting the drive shaft aligned and inside the yoke. Not sure if there is a good tire removing thread in the Tech Library. I never found one with all the information in one place. Had to skip around. So if this works then ask Freebird to put it in there. He usually will not, unless asked and there is not already an existing write up. I am not sure about that. I have been wrong before, just ask my wife. Someone else may see something I missed to, so please jump in if so. Will not hurt my feelings at all. Just trying to help out and give back to the site that has helped me so much. Thanks all. Fuzzy
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I just got my trike, never rode one for any extended distance, I find the ride a little harsh, so I have a couple of questions. First a little info about my trike, It is a 93 Venture Royale, with a Motor Trike kit installed by the factory in 99. One of the previous owners added air bags that are hooked up to the class system. It also has progressive air shocks. How much air should I run in them and what air pressures do you reccomend in the tires. Mine are radials, and right now they have 20 lbs. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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wondering if someone can help! is there anyway to bypass the class air system on my 1986 yamaha venture royale? I bought it a week ago and it isnt working. e-4 message can hear the pump clicking. took the controller out checked for soldier breaks. Im thinking this is gonna be a lot of work! so can I bypass the system so I can ride? thanks for any help!
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