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Showing results for tags 'adjustment'.
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A HUGE thanks to BigBear for taking the time to create these videos. There are 4 versions here. They are similar but he did some editing in an attempt to create smaller files. I decided to upload them to YouTube so am just going to link all 4. Putting them on YouTube will save us a TON of bandwidth. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ldYil1yUl4&feature=plcp]Valve Shim Removal for Yamaha Motorcycles - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKIrvHRP0SA&feature=channel&list=UL]Yamaha Motorcycle Valve Adjustment from http://www.venturerider.org - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thiVJKtzgXo&feature=channel&list=UL]Yamaha Motorcycle valve adjustment from http://www.venturerider.org - YouTube[/ame]
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The cruise on my 99 RSV kicks out on hills and more easily riding 2 up. It did not work when I bought the bike and I have been through all the switches and diagnostics and found a carb cable out of adjustment a long way. My real feeling now is that I still have an adjustment issue and wondered if anyone felt that I have things too tight or not tight enough on adjustment tolerances. It seems that the cc can't respond fast enough and kicks out because of not holding speed up or down hills. On flats it's fine riding solo is fine also even in some small hills. Thanks for your thoughts.
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I'm trying to get my 84 Venture running properly but so far I can only get a slow idle out of it after it warms up. I have been following the other threads re diaphragms, etc but my question relates to the closed throttle position. When the bike is idling I can retard the throttle or push down on the front carb lever and it closes a little more and the rpm will rise a little. Basically, I run out of idle screw adjustment before it contacts the first carb lever. I loosened the throttle cable adjustment housing and put slack in the cable but the throttle still doesn't seem to close all the way. I would think the throttle plates should close tight when there is no tension on them. I also notice that my full cold choke setting is not complete as I can take a pair of plies and pull on the choke linkage and it will snap further about another 1/16 on an inch but it will still start with the partial choke. I know I have to tune the carbs together but I'm not at that point yet until I get this linkage figured out. I had it running last spring when I went to a "meat and eat" in Jacksonville and one of the guys brought his carbtune but even though it ran fairly well but the vacumn was barely registering. I got home and messed with the carbs and that's where it sat until I started working on it again. I would appreciate any suggestions.
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I have been reading several threads on exhaust poping on deceleration. I have had the problem since I bought the bike over two years ago. It seems to have gotten worse over the last few months, so I think I've decided to try to fix it once and for all. I have already run a can of Seafoam through the carbs over the last 2 tanks of gas. This has usually helped but never eliminated all the poping. This time it didn't seem to do much at all. I have checked for exhaust leaks and found none. I have done a carb sync with no change. My next step based on my reading is to clean/adjust the Pilot Jets. I have found several threads explaining in detail the proceedure. I am confident I can do the job except for one thing. I have a 96 RSTD and the carbs are different from the ones discribed for newer Ventures and RSTDs. The adjustment doen't look like it's accessable from the outside of the float bowl. I don't see anywhere there is a "brass cap" to remove to gain access for the adjustment. In the thread it says I should find it next to or near the float drain. I don't seem to see anything. At the YamahaPartsHouse.com site there is a parts breakdown that shows the difference when you look at a 96 compared to an 07 carb. The carbs on the 96 through 2000 look to be the same. Can someone help me with the proceedure and or location of the access. -
I would like to know if anyone in Fla or South Ga. is planning on doing a valve job on their Venture. I do not need one on my bike but I have read all the posts on our site and really want to try it. I plan on learning it and then helping our members out. I have a carbtune and could teach that now and do adjustment for members. The valve adjustment is very interesting to me and so I would like to help, watch and learn. Please let me know and I will drive to the event/maintenance day or days. I also would purchase a shim kit for all to use. If anyone has one for sale please let me know as well. I am more than ready to tackle this job. Thanks to Goose for his excellent write up on how to perform this maintenance task. thanks, DanC:cool10: -
Wondering if I might have a couple of guys that might want to tackle a valve adjustment on the iron horse before we get into spring? I do not have any experence at it but with the write up from VGoose it looks to be fairly easy just time consuming. We could do it in my garage or at someone else's. I do not have a carbon one lift adapter but I do have a craftsman jack. Should have all the tools needed accept for the shim kit and special tool. Also would need a carbtune for after we adjust the valves. If we get some intrest maybe we could round one up from another member or I could just buy one. Let me know what you think out there. I know I have a grill that cooks some mean steaks, and the garage refrig has cold beer. Brian Shoemaker 706-635-1580 -
Last weekend, I pulled the carbs to clean the jets (both sets). Pilots were clogged, mains were fine. Started the mixture screws at 3 turns out from seated. Question: Is there a recommendation on WHICH CARB to begin the mixture adjustment process? I've review numerous threads regarding the adjustment process, but no mention of which carb to begin with. Does it matter? Question: Does the idle adjustment affect all four carbs? Or does turning the idle adjustment screw adjust one carb, then the others "synch-up" to it?
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The floats are too high on my 06 Venture. They measure .280" and I want to adjust to .340". I have searched thru a lot of threads, but have not found how to bend the little tab on the float for adjustment. Would someone please tell me how to do this without breaking something? I would also like to thank everyone involved with the super tech articles that have made life a lot easier for me. Great Job!
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Just an idea I thought I would pass along. Adjusting the passing lamps is such a pain in the a-hold I decided to find an easier way. Checking the alignment and tightening the adjustment nuts with the sealed beams out was the issue for me. They always moved and I could never get them exactly where I wanted them. So I made a tool to help with the job. It is very simple and I made it out of a piece of scrap wood. The notch goes around the headlight and butts up to the passing light housings. The housings will be held pointed straight ahead. Then I use a small level from Harbor Freight for the vertical setting. This makes it easy to keep them both the same when I tighten things up. Mike
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Alright, the valve adjustment on my 01RSV and the clutch upgrade, new friction plates and spring, all is well and working beautifully. The vave adjustment, replaced 14 of the 16 shims, they all were ultra tight, caught it just in time at 85,000 miles, anyone doing this be extra sure of the crankcase vent hose routing, mine was crimped, causing the cover gaskets to blow, after 4 tear downs and a lot of head scratching, finally found it, the clutch upgrade was a snap, less than 2 hours and works perfect, a great big thank you to SkyDoc for the kit and the invaluable help with everything especailly the quick shipment of parts and kits. Thanks to the knowledgeable help of the great site, and anyone looking to do clutch up grade I suggest you contack SkyDoc for the kit. On the Road Again, its good for another 85,000. JB:whistling: -
If anyone within 400 miles of Charlotte NC is planning to do a valve adjustment any time soon would you please let me know. I would like to come up and watch someone do one before I try to tackle it myself. Thanks all
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I made an appointment for 12,000 mile check because of upcoming cross country trip and possible oil leak around rear hub. The service guy said they recommend a valve adjustment. I thought it was too early but he insisted it was recommended. I thought it wasn't needed until 27,000 miles. Is this dealer trying to rip me off?
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Looks like Harley's wobble is getting a little attention. My brother the Harley rider sent me this link last nite. Maybe they need to show up for the MD steering head adjustment clinic. http://www.kpho.com/local-video/index.html?grabnetworks_video_id=4697488
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:confused24:I rebuilt the carbs on my '88 Venture...there are 2 throttle cables attached to the carberator linkage..one has an adjustment on it and one doesn't...can anyone tell me which one goes to the outside of the bike?
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Well now I know. Thanks to Freebird, I was looking at the passing lamp factory installation instructions in the tech library to find out how to adjust the aiming of the lamps. Who would have guessed that the adjustment CAN NOT be made from outside the lamps? You have to go inside, make an adjustment, put it back together and check it, then if it's not right, go through it again! Darn poor design, but at least now I know. Well, while I was looking through the instructions I found that there is a switch in the wiring circuit! I'm the 2nd owner, the PO had the lamps installed by his dealer. I thought that the lamps came on with the ignition switch, no other option. That little push button switch down by the 12V outlet is so well hidden I would never have found it without having access to the information in the instruction manual. A big THANK YOU to the Freebird, you're the man! -
I purchase a Carbtune Plus and it arrived today. I decided to give it a whirl. I took the laptop with me to follow Freebirds directions and headed to the garage. First of all a ride a 96 Royal Star Tour Classic and it has no tach so I really don't know if the idle is correct. I followed the Carbtune directions for setup then went to Freebirds post. I hooked up the Carbtune and the readings were way off. All went well while doing step #1 and I got the first side to measure pretty closely.( How close do I need to be to be close?) It was when I went to step #2 that I ran into a problem. The adjustment screw was not where the directions said it would be. I happen to have a second set of carbs so I took them off the shelf for a look; It seemed to me that I would need to access the adjustment screw for side 2 from the left side of the bike, There were two adjustment screws side by side so I really wasn't sure which was which. I tried trial and error and was able to get side 2 pretty close( once again how close do I need to be?) I then tried the second adjustment screw and got all 4 to be pretty close.(????). I put the rubber plugs back on and took the bike for a ride. The" old boy" seemed to run a little better and I seemed to notice less back firing on deceleration. Now my questions....Can anyone tell me if I did the sync correctly? How close is close enough and is it necessary to have the idle RPM"s perfect before I started the procedure...Thanks
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I just had a shock built by Klaus Heuencke at www.epmperformance.com for my 2nd gen RSV. Ride quality is excellent, and shock construction is excellent. It is a YSS brand, but is custom built by Klaus in New Jersey. The cost of the shock is $499, which is far less than anything else I could find (including stock). The shock is also about 2-3lbs lighter than the stock shock, and performance is far superior to stock. I'll post a pic of it tonight. You can email Klaus at info@epmperf.com . The shock is adjustable, specs are: Pre-Load Adjustment, Rebound Adjustment 60 Clicks — 50 mm 50 Micron Steel Bore and Radial Sinter Piston — 16 mm Hardened Shaft — Low Friction, Long Life Seal Block — Bearing, Bushes and Fork Fittings to suit each Model — Dampening and Springrates Model specific, and is rebuildable.
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08 rsv rear latch on left side saddlebag is hard to latch pushing hard seems to work is there any adjustment? thanks steve
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I think I know how you are supposed to adjust your headlight, but not sure where you do the adjustment on the headlight. I see two small recessed horizontal screws one on each side at the bottom of the headlight. If this is the adjustment then, facing the headlight, which screw is for the vertical and which for the horizontal? I've tried turning them and can't see the difference. If this is not it, then where? Thanks for any help!
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After synchronizing the carb’s within 10 mmHg (each column) using the Carbtune Pro (at an idle between 1,000 – 1,100 RPM) on a 2006 RSTD the engine idle then randomly fluctuates between 730 and 1750 RPM’s. Obviously, when this change in idle speed occurs the previous adjustment (in vacuum) to match all columns exceeds 10mmHg. You can adjust the idle adjust screw to change the engine idle speed but this adjustment does nothing to stop the idle speed from randomly changing. What could be causing this to occur? Thanks 2 Flights -
Hello, I just purchased the Morgan Carbtune Pro and will soon attempt (first) to synchronize the carburetors on my 2006 RSTD which has almost 8,00 miles and is experienced some occasional back fire and pops on deceleration. Before attempting this work I need to clear up some confusion about doing this work. Thanks Subject: Seeking Clarification Reference: Article on Synchronizing the Carburetors. (RS Venture and 2006 – Royal Star Tour Deluxe) In this article (page 5) of the text under the lower picture you write, you’ll want to adjust 1 and 2 on the left side and 3 and 4 on the right side of the bike (again when sitting on the seat). These adjustments are made with a #2 Phillips screwdriver from the right side of the bike. My comment…aren’t the adjustment to carb’s 1 and 2 made from the right side of the bike looking through the V of the engine to the left bank of carburetors. Isn’t the same adjustment to carb’s 3 and 4 made in a similar way from the left side of the bike (not right side) looking through the V of the engine to the right bank of carburetors using the long #2 Phillips screwdriver? In the picture (top – page 7) where the text indicates [Here is the screw for synching both sides together]. It is accessed from the left side, just above the choke knob. This is a hex head screw with a slot for a screwdriver. On my 06 RSTD this screw is located on the right side of the bike or am I confused on the location of these adjustment screws and their physical location. Thanks for your input.
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I have never worked on 2ed gen ventures so I need a little help. Some one has pulled the brass plugs on the Carburetor and adjusted the mixture and the owner wants me to help him make an adjustment. I have to admit that I have no Idea where the mixture screws are on the Carburetor. Can some one tell me where to look? Fred
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ok im looking for a way to stop them from leaking? they seem to close nice and tight? but after a rain or a simple wash job the top trunk gets about an inch of water in it? it runs to the far side while on side stand.\\ the right sadle bag does about the same/ i looked at the latches and see there pop riveted? i saw on ebay someone was selling a upper trunk repair kit? latches small screws straps ect ect. just need to figure out how to remove the rivets if thats the case or if there is just some kind of adjustment and gasket that can be used.
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I have another question, can the handlebars be adjusted, I want to raise them a little. Looks like there is an adjustment nut that pinch's the handlebars, can I crack them loose and bring the bars up, say 1/2-1"? Thanks, Don PS Forgive me for a lame question, just want to be sure I can do this.
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I have received a quote for producing a tool that will allow the tightening of the fork bearing nut with a 3/8" torque wrench. This procedure is outlined in the service manuals beginning with the 1986 manual. This is under Periodic Inspection & Adjustment - Chassis - Steering Head Adjustment. Also, if you are the proud owner of the MKI (83-85) Ventures, you could use the procedure outlined in the 86-93 manual. If you need a copy of this procedure I can provide it for you. The tool will work on any year Venture. The same part number is shown in the part fiche from 1983 through the RSV's for the steering head bearing nut. I have a one piece sample coming so I can try it to insure fitment. The tool will be laser cut from 1/4" thick, 304 stainless steel, mill finish. In order to cut the cost for the tool, I will receive the tool from the supplier just as they come off the laser cutter. There will be a slight amount of slag that I will clean up using my stationary belt sander. I need to know how much interest there would be in this tool. I can supply this tool at a cost of $23.00 including first class shipping to lower 48 US & Canada. I would not have to be paid in advance for this item. Payment would be made at time of order. Supplier has agreed to allow me 30 days to pay. If you would be interested in one of these, please post to this thread or PM me. Attached is a picture showing dimensioned tool, left side shows engagement with nut, right side is a scan of Yamaha tool. Gary
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