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Showing results for tags 'abs'.
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You folks have helped me more than I could ever thank you for! So, I'd like to make a small contribution that may have already been shared by someone else, I don't know. While trying (no telling HOW many) different epoxies (from fast to slow cure) with a certain amount of succuss, I finally discovered the one that is absolutely perfect! It's PERMATEX "PermaPoxy" Epoxy Stick Item # 84315. Can be found at WalMart for $4.00. My fairing had a corner chunk missing, various holes drilled for bogus switches and just about every tab cracked or missing. You just cut off a slice, knead it, smash it in place, shape it a little, wait 5 minutes, apply final grinding, and WHAMO! A jack hammer couldn't knock it loose! I have even glued "fixed" nuts on metal parts. It can even be drilled and tapped out. It glues everthing (including ABS, obviously) except oil and water! And I'm not sure of that yet. Friends, you'll not be disappointed, I promise.
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Getting closer to winter and I have been mulling over the idea of fitting a set of ABS brakes to Tweety for its annual winter upgrade. Not as far fetched as it may seem. The technology is out there and proven. It is just a matter of integrating an existing system onto a 1st gen Venture. Then there is that little testing issue, but that comes later. Mounting the rotational sensors seems like a relatively straight forward target. When I put the VMax wheel on the front I had to put spacers on each side due to narrower hub, so the front end is easy, the rear would be a tad more of a challenge. Finding room for the control unit seems possible in one of the fairing pockets. Then it would come down to plumbing in the lines, which should be relativity simple given the custom made stainless lines available. There are ABS controllers available at Pinwall scrappers now & then. Does anyone have any technical info on the inner workings of a MC system? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system Gary
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This warning about Locktite is posted here periodically, but since I just worked on a bike today with massive ABS plastic damage due to stupid Locktite use, I thought I'd start it again. The bottom line is that Locktite is known to damage many plastics, and ABS is one of them. We often caution people to never use Locktite on any screw that goes into plastic, but the problem is much worse than that. NEVER use it on anything that is even near ABS plastic! Every once in a while someone gets a bit uppity about these warnings and tries to say it is BS if a screw/bolt is going into metal, but I will give you first hand information about how much damage can be done by ignoring this warning. Had a guy come by today with 2nd gen trunk where all of the mounting points inside the lower trunk for the latching mechanism had busted loose. This just does not happen on this bike, so I was puzzled by why it had happened to him. The initial examination looked like maybe the plastic was defective from the factory. I have 100,000 miles on my RSV, most of which have been with the trunk over-full, and I have never had any problem, so why did his all break? Well, it became obvious while we were fixing it. Turned out that the plastic all around the latch mounting points had just disintegrated - no clean breaks at all, just crumbling plastic. And when I was removing the mounting bolts, I was struck by how tightly they were frozen into to the tinnerman nuts that fit over the plastic mounting tabs. These bolts should easily unscrew, but not his. Closer inspection showed that some poorly informed person had used Locktite on each of these bolts. Although these bolts do not directly screw into the ABS plastic, the tinnerman nuts clip over the plastic tabs so the bolts fit through a hole in the plastic, and the Locktite fumes damaged all of the plastic around the bolts. So the standard warning remains as strong as ever - NEVER use Locktite anywhere near ABS plastic! Goose -
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/Owen064/ABSbrakes.jpg
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So I've read some of the repair methods/suggestions...if I understand correctly, these parts are made of ABS?? If that's correct, can I use ABS pipe material (used in plumbing) as "filler"?
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I just found this product called Q-Bond, it repairs just about anything. I glued two pieces of abs at 90 degrees and within 15 seconds I could not pull them apart. If you google the product they show repairs to gaskets, plastics, abs, wood, etc. It can also be built up like a weld, it would be great for all of the plastic repairs on your bike. It is extremely strong and very easy to use. Just thought I would pass on.
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but I didn't realize they were still caught up inside the right lower. As some know the PO fell down and skinned up the the whole right side of my bike before I bought it. I knew this going in, so no big deal. Not sure what happened to the left lower, but the front two button head bolts are all that is holding both lowers on. Yesterday I decided to install my new wind deflectors that mount on the crash bars. Well the PO had just straightened the right one even though the top mounting hole was torn. The deflector did not look right, so I decided to install the new (to me) crash bar that has been on my shelf for too long. When I pulled the lower, the two broken mounting tabs fell out, Yay!!! The PO had tried to glue them back on with some type of hard white stuff. It didn't "weld" to the ABS. As the tabs edges would not sit flat down on the mating surface I didn't think the ABS glue would hold them, so I decided on reinforcement, ABS glue and epoxy. Not the prettiest repair, cause there are screw heads showing, but I suspect the tabs will not come off anytime soon! I found some sheet metal screws(they don't all match, but they don't show either) and installed them at 90 degree angles, then filled the cavities with (two part) epoxy. The epoxy may/may not stick to the ABS, but it WILL stick to the metal screws!
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Like this hasn't been dicussed before! Ha! Last December when I stored my bike I removed all the plactic and bought it into my basement shop with the intention of making all the repairs needed on the tabs and broken or missing pins. Oh yeah! And the headlight cover .... or replace it. So a good cleaning and a long look at everything showed me I had more work to do than I thought and I needed stuff to do it right. A really good epoxy and some ABS flatstock to replace or create new tabs and build up cracked areas on the fairings. Ok..... a couple of things. I tried 5 different epoxies over the winter. All dual chamber, 2 part dispensors for hard plastics or ABS listed on the package. I bought one "quick set, short cure time" and well, not worth it. All of the ones I chose were about 24 hours cure time. But from what I found, and tried a lot of different ways of testing the end repair, that they all seemed to have the same result with proper prep of the plastic to be repaired. As for repair materials.........you find things in the strangest places some times. I found all kinds of ABS flat stock at a grocery store. For FREE!! The store was doing a reset in the pop isle and all those plastic bin and shelf sliders are plastic......ABS plastic. Got to talking to the manager and they had ordered all new signage for the isles and displays and had stacks of sheets of plastic on the back waiting to be thrown out. Checked it out....three different thicknesses of ABS sheets. Some were 3 ft square. That should hold me through the testing process. But anyway I wanted to share some of my ideas and the way repairs were done. I know the head light covers suffer from cracked screw holes on a lot of the bikes and mine had really gone South so I'll start with that. The mounting holes in mine had given out and were missing pieces. So I tried this. Grind or sand out any rough edges and rough up the remaining surfaces with sandpaper. I wiped it all down with alcohol to remove any loose particals and oil. Next I packed the areas I wanted to keep open with modeling clay. Better than trying to reshape it later. I wrapped the front of the head light cover around the repair area with wax paper to shape the outer side of the repair. Attach it firmly with masking tape and create a cup for the epoxy. Fill the area with epoxy and let it cure. It's going to be thick so a couple of days would be plenty of time. Peel off the tape and wax paper. Most the paper will peel off and what sticks is easy to sand off. Remove the modeling clay and you will see the basic repair. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to shape the epoxy rough and then used a sanding block to final shape it. Mask off the corners again and give it a light coat of primer. You will see any defects that need to be fixed. A light sanding and another thin coat of the epoxy to fill the defects and after curing it's ready for the final sand down, primer and the new paint. The paint is the tricky part. Still waiting for the color matching to work out and then the air brushing will be done. So far......installed it......and it took a good tightening with no cracking. So much for the head light. Next......the side panel pins.
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Browsing the Harley site this weekend, and dang, I might be in love! I loved my Venture, but have always loved a H-D Road Glide....now with the backseat and trunk, I may be sold. Oh yeah, the ABS helps too. What do ya'll think of this bike? http://blog.encs.com/Portals/30908/images/11RoadGlideUltra.jpg
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http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Motorcycles/road-glide-ultra.html#/gallery 103 in motor, ABS, Cruise all standard
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What are you guys doing about repairing/replacing the lower 2 fwd fairings due to crumbling ABS plastic? Mine are in pretty bad shape, and actually are beginnning to crumble at both attach points and, in the case of the lower fwd piece in front of the exhaust, it literally crumbled into several pieces. Did a search on some of the usual parts sites, but they are pretty expensive. Any ideas? -
Another attempt at putting the government in charge of designing motorcycles: http://www.motorcycle.com/news/should-abs-be-required-on-all-motorcycles-89548.html
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Any insight on welding ABS plastic? Equipment used? Brand, Model #... so on and so forth. Airless or air? I am looking at an airless with temp control and was wondering if anyone here has some experience. I have done bodywork back in the day, I weld and have the patience to to these kind of repairs. Just thought I would ask the group for their advice. Bubber aka Steve
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I saw on another site that plastic can be repaired with inexpensive PVC glue. While I haven't tried it yet, it makes sense. IIRC Lowes has glue for ABS drain pipe, which may even be better. Any one ever try this route?
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I have a crack in the lower fairing; radiating out from the main (upper) bolt that secures it. Is the best repair something like JB Weld or some sort of ABS welder product - possibly with an ABS patch to prevent it from propagating? If anyone has something that has worked for them, I would appreciate the information. Thanks Ross
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I'm going out on a limb here. I've seen a couple guys talk about changing the body style of their Gen 1 and get fried so I am going to set this up a little bit. I am in the process of painting all of my fairings. Anyone who has taken off all the fairings knows that 25 year old ABS is "band-aided" together. I am not a mechanical genious, but I think that the ABS fairings are one of the weak links to these machines lasting a lot more years. You can ABS patch and glue as much as you want, but you are still patching 25 year old ABS. I would love to see a thread where some people explore alternative fairing systems for the Gen 1's. For some of you entrepreneurs, I think there could be a little business for a front fairing and a heat sheild for the sides covering up the wire with some leather bags for example. With that, I'll jump off. Be gentle. -
Where is a good place to find abs glue? I looked all over town and finally found some at SLOWES. When I got home I noticed the can said black. I don't want black I want clear. Thanks
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Last Saturday I traded the Venture in on an 09 Harley Ultra with ABS. Got a deal I could not pass up. For those of you that love to bash Harley and think ABS is not needed with proper skills I say go ride an 09 and try out the ABS I think you will be quite surprised at how well the bike handles and just how fast it can be stopped.
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I went back to Wal-Mart to clean out their stock of this magnificent ABS epoxy and BOOM! They were out and didn't even have the display any longer. A severe panic set in so I went on a mission and finally found it at O'Reilly Auto, AutoZone and K-Mart. Wheew...a close call! You might still have it at Wal-Mart where you live, but I'm pretty certain these others will carry it for quite a while.
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I am thinking about looking for something with ABS to replace the Venture. I have never been very comfortable trying to bring that heavy bike to a quick stop when it is loaded with gear and a passenger. I am 6'6" and need some room so I don't think a goldwing or BMW would be an option any body have some experience with any of the other choices. From what I have seen so far it is looking like Harley may be the only real choice. Let me hear your thoughts.
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Trying to brainstorm an idea. Is there anyone out there that has connections or resources to having ABS plastic chrome plated? I've serched on the web and there are several out there that do this and in several was. My idea was to "bling" up the air cleaner covers. Much like the way you can get the chrome Ignition cover for the RSV. I know there air the billet covers offered by Yamaha, but costly as well as having to get the K&N air filters. One quot I got was having both covers chrome plated very much the same way you would have metal chrome plated for $85 to $105 each. Have contacted several other companies out there but have not gotten any answers yet!! Just thinking there might be someone here that might know someone or a buisness locally that might be able to do it for a little less!!! Thanks, Dennis
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I am curious to know what you have experienced with the ABS and/or linked braking systems (either with ABS or without) on other bikes that you have driven (since the RSV does not have linked or ABS brakes). I layed my RSV down after I locked up the rear brake in an emergency situation and posted that thread here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29532. -
Thought you might find this interesting. Study: Antilocks Trim Fatal Motorcycle Crashes WASHINGTON (AP)--Antilock brakes could help motorcycle riders avoid fatal crashes, according to a study by the insurance industry. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety said Wednesday that the fatal crash rate involving motorcycles equipped with optional antilock brakes, or ABS, was 38 percent lower than the rate involving similar motorcycles without the systems. Antilock brakes, like their counterparts on cars and trucks, help motorcycle riders stop their bikes abruptly without locking up the wheels or fishtailing. The system evaluates the brake pressure multiple times per second, allowing motorcycle riders to fully brake both wheels in an emergency situation and avoid hitting the pavement. Antilocks are more typically found on touring bikes and have been available on a limited number of motorcycles since BMW AG introduced ABS on the K100 in 1988. "Even though adding antilocks won't make motorcycling as safe as going by car, it's something manufacturers can do to reduce the risk of traveling on two wheels instead of four," said Adrian Lund, president of the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety. Rob Dingman, president and CEO of the American Motorcyclist Association, said the study shows the potential of antilock brakes, but it also underscores the need for a "long-overdue" federal study of the causes of motorcycle crashes. "Our members would welcome an ABS option on more models, but there must be a broader strategy to reduce motorcycle accidents and fatalities that includes increased education and motorist awareness," Dingman said. Safety officials have been concerned about a steady rise in motorcycle deaths. More than 5,100 motorcyclists died in 2007, compared with 2,294 fatalities in 1998. The deaths have climbed as vehicle miles traveled have grown by more than 20 percent during the period and motorcycle registrations have surpassed 6 million, compared with 3.8 million in 1998. In the report, researchers studied eight motorcycles that offer antilock brakes as an option. They found there were 6.6 fatal crashes per 10,000 registered motorcycles without antilocks in 2005-2006. The rate for the same bikes equipped with antilocks was 4.1, or 38 percent lower, during the same period. In a second study, the IIHS found that antilock brakes appeared to reduce collision claims — insurance losses were 21 percent lower for motorcycles with antilock brakes compared with similar motorcycles without the equipment. The findings were based on a data set of 72,000 insured years of 2003-2007 model year Honda, Suzuki, Triumph and Yamaha bikes. IIHS said antilocks were standard or optional equipment on about 40 motorcycles from the 2008 model year; top manufacturers include BMW, Harley-Davidson Inc., and Honda Motor Co. ABS typically adds about $1,000 or more to the cost of a motorcycle. Ty van Hooydonk, the Motorcycle Industry Council's director of product communications, said ABS can be effective for some riders but it depends on factors such as road conditions, skill level and the type of riding involved. "For a number of experienced enthusiasts out there, they're able to stop with a non-ABS motorcycle quicker than they are with an ABS-equipped motorcycle," van Hooydonk said. "It's all very situational." Ray Zimmerman, executive director of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America, said ABS could be very valuable when trying to bring a bike to a stop on slick and icy roads. Zimmerman, of Ellisville, Mo., said he has been riding motorcycles for more than four decades and logged nearly 250,000 miles on BMW motorcycles. His ABS system has come in handy on two occasions, and he's glad he had it. "You keep a bike from swerving out of control one time, and it's worth (it)," he said.
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I had previously mentioned having broken the left side trunk latch bracket (the vertical plate that goes into the locking mechanism).. It was a shear break leaving a flat plate of ABS on the metal part.. a clean break. I purchased some ABS cleaner and Adhesive to "weld" the piece back on.. And wow, that worked nicely! It took me longer to read the instructions on the two cans than it did to apply the product and hold it in place for 2 minutes.. Leave it sit for at least 7 hours and presto.. good as new. I actually pulled on it quick hard trying to break it again but it held. I just needed to make sure it wouldn't accidentally come apart at the wrong place and wrong time.. So.. there you go.. it works well. Thanks to all for their sage advice and comments on ABS parts repair. (Side Note: An ABS welding kit would not have worked in this application due to the way the break is located.. Welding requires a flat surface and cutting of a V Groove in order to 'weld' a bead into the v groove. I would not have been able to do this on the upper trunk latch plate.)
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ergh.. disappointing wot? the latch catch on the trunk lid came off the lid last night. a clean break. Right now when you close the trunk, only one side latches. Apart from purchasing a new trunk lid, is there a proper method and materials for welding the ABS plastics together strongly enough for this area? Cheers
