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i put the bikes away too early this year. got the strat in my shop for the winter, needing new tires. the v-star is in the trailer for the winter on the charger, that leaves me with the majesty scooter, and cushman to ride this winter. ugh. the weather here has been awesome. whats a guy to do? i did ride the cushman about a 1/4 mile last weekend to test out the new mikuni i put on it. guess i will just sit here and suffer.
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Would some one please help me find a gentleman a reese type hitch for a 1700 Yamaha Roadstar. I found one here http://www.mchitch.com/Yamaha_RoadStar.htm This is the type hitch he wants but it is really pricey. The 1 1/4 " type hitch with stinger is what he needs. I ask him what year model bike and he has not got back to me as yet. Thanks for any and all help here. Fuzzy
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I hate to be the one to re-post a thread but I give up. I have been searching for actual 1/4 mile & 0-60 time for the 2005+ RSTD for over a year now and keep coming up empty handed. I know that these bikes aren’t made for the strip but these are figure I like to know on any vehicle I own. I have seen a couple of places that has said something about the 6 second range 0-60 but that number doesn’t seem correct. The only mod's done to my bike that I am aware of is a pair of BUB slip ons and it seems way quicker than a mid 6 0-60 run. There was one occasion were I pulled up behind a Cherokee SRT8 at a on ramp for the high way with a nice Borla exhaust and as soon as I stopped he start revving it up. Normally I wouldn't pay any attention to it but I wanted to see how quick one was off the line in person. Knowing I was going to see the Jeep in action was enough for me to try and give him a run for his money. Well any ways when the light changed he laid the hammer down and I dumped the clutch in chase but to my amazement next thing I know I was changing lanes and he was slowly disappearing in my mirror. I slowed down when I hit 70 and just went on about my business but right before my exit he shot back up beside me trying to get me two give him a second try but I just gave him a thumbs up and got off my exit (it wasn't worth passing up Bass Pro). I know a lot of people would think a jeep would be no comparison for a bike but the SRT8 is an AWD capable of sub 5 second 0-60 runs. Also they pretty much eliminates the issue of a good or bad driver, even though it has over 400hp with its AWD launching and wheel spin is not a problem. But anyways if I could leave that jeep sit then the numbers I have been reading seems like they are off by a bit so if anyone would has any personal experience or knows or read of any 0-60 or 1/4 mile times I would greatly appreciate it.
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Well it was listening to that whine from the back of my bikes(td and venture) for 3 years now that caused me to take matters into my own hands. I know i should have done this long ago but , hey, my feet were happy! I asked several people to come up with a way to lower the boards for my wife to no avail so this is my answer. 2x2 3/16 angle cut 3 inches long . kuyrakan longhorns. 1/4 gal pipe cut for spacers. (see pics). Since I dont really have the facility to make these they were kinda labor intensive since most of it was with hand tools I was hoping one of you guys with a shop might be able to do them if any others wanted. We have rode on a 450 mile day so far and she loved them. Said she like to be able to change from the boards to the pegs. They do flip up neatly when not in use. The 3/16 angle does have a little flex but not more than the stock floorboard. Perhaps if i was doing it again i'd use 1/4 angle. Anyway the whine is completely gone from the rear of the bike now. All is right in the world now! Jack in Los Osos CA
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i was out driving my 2005 pontiac grand prix 74.000 miles on it i was down to a 1/4 tank of gas then the check engine light came on? this has done this before in may on my trip to MN but after a fresh tank of premium gas it went off? and has not come back on untill now when i went and put a half a tank of gas in 2 days ago and ran it down to the 1/4 of a tank. this was regular gas not premium? im hoping that now that i filled it with premium it will go off again after running this tank out? any ideas what could be the cause of this? i just cant afford a major problem right now. i dont feel any loss of power? thanks oldgoat
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Granddaughter #3 arrived today about a week early, but she has all the right parts in all the right places, and is just beautiful. Shannon Margaret, born 7:10pm, 6lbs 2oz, 18 1/4 in. long. Can't wait to get her on the back seat of the RSV for a ride someday! Babies are the best thing in the world!!!
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has anyone tried putting other tips on the nasty boys other than the barron brand? like to try to find some a little cheaper although they have marked them down a little.i believe the diameter is 2 1/4" outside and 2.06-2.16 inner and needs at least one inch to insert inside.
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i need to know what size tap drill a 1/4 " npt tap takes. can't find my machinist book and can't remember what size it takes.
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The thing I hate about a 1st gen is the throttle , it is a long way to get to wot . with my big hands to go full throttle I have to break my wrest , anybody know if there is a shorter throw one that will work on our bikes ? BTW it Snaggaltooth fault ! He was talking about a 1/4 turn throttle on a over powered dirt bike:stickpoke:
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After all of the discussion of improved slow speed handling that leveling links provide I decided to make a set last Friday. Following the instruction posted in the technical section I made a set from 1/4 x 1 1/4 steel bar from Home Depot. After letting the paint on them dry I installed them and took slow trip around the neighborhood. Wow, they did improve the slow speed handling. Great! I thought. So yesterday I had a 300 mile ride planned with my riding buddies going over roads we've been on dozens of times. A lot of twisties and sweeping curves with good smooth pavement. We hit the curves and the bike was a handful to keep under control. It was extremely "twitchy" and required constant corrections. Without the links I could just set the bike up lay into the curves with a smooth transistion through them. I know it's contrary to popular opinon here, but I don't like them and I plan to go back to the stock links today. Dennis
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Last spring I greased my front forks. Put it all back together and everything looked good. A while later I had to trailler the bike and it was loaded with the bike on its sidestand and the front wheel turned left against the bulkhead. We strapped it down and only hauled it about 5 miles at low speed. Afterward it seems that the handlebars and the driving light assembly is tweaked to the right about 1/4 1/2". I never noticed that before. Sitting on the bike its either 1/4 lower on the right or 1/4 higher on the left. So, is there a procedure that I can do to make sure I line everything up right? Right now the bike is up on the lift. I plan on moving the fairing away and remove the top tree and check the pinch bolts. Any other ideas?
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I want to get a set of Karyaken highway pegs and they come in 1"" and 1 1/4". I measured my front crash bar and it measures between 1 and 1 1/4". The question is, should I order 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch? This is for my 07 RSTD. Thanks for any assistance you can offer.
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Has anyone added a tac and if so can I see some pics? I really want to add one, but don't know what way to go. I have found some flat ( 1/4 in thick) digital gages that I was thinking about setting in a leather tank bib. But other than that, I'm lost.
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I was just curious how fast or slow a RSTD runs a 1/4 mile and Speed. It sure feels slow compared to my FJR.
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Can anyone help me verify WHAT these part #'s are from? I am wanting to put them on my '07 RSV. Genuine Harley Davidson Parts! NO CARBON & NO CATALYST This auction is for 2 piece exhaust or muffler pipes HD part # 65538-95A ( Right) and part # 65539-95A (Left) it is marked on the muffler pipe that would fit FLT 1340 and 1450 May fit Touring, Road King and other, Please check part # Meets epa 80 dB noise lilmit on the models FLT 1340/1450. Both are in very good condition, No dents or dings. (These are dealer take off parts) 29" Long, 1 3/4" I.D. inlet, 3 1/4" I.D. outlet, 4 1/4" O.D. overall Dia, Hnager mounting nuts on 3 1/2" centers.
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I removed the PMS caps from my carbs last Saturday and turned then out 1/4 turn each. ( I also plugged the AIS and synced the carbs) I started noticing some popping on decel after that. This evening I checked the adjustment on each carb. They ranged from 1 3/4 to 2 1/2 turns out! I tried to adjust them by ear but I couldn't hear enough difference to do it that way. I wrote down the adjustments on each in case I needed to go back and then set them all to 2 1/4 out. The result: The bike started easier than it ever has and when I took it for a spin it seemed to be more responsive; more crisp. Anyone else have a similar experience? Do you think I'm close on the adjustment? Is there a better way to adjust them w/out buying a carb-tune or EG analyzer?
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I read a tech article on another forum about how the pilots are adjusted lean from the factory. (That sounds normal) It recommended turning all four out 1/4 turn. For those that have adjusted their pilots... does that sound about right? FYI, my Venture is an '07.
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Back a couple months ago I had a new tires put on. So I purchased some ride on and added it to the tires. This evening I went out to take a ride and the rear tire was flat. Checked and found a small nail in it. So pumped up the tire and pulled the nail out but it did not seal itself. According to Ride On's web site. It's suppose to seal up to 1/4" diameter. The nail is very close to the 1/4". The rear tires on the Roadliner are not cheap! But you can't ride without one!!!!
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Well, I finally finished my driving lights. I used the brackets from here, the Optronics lights from Wal-Mart and stuff from the electrical box. I replaced the light hardware with stainless steel 1/4" allen bolts. The cross bolt is 1 1/4" and the vertical bolt is 3/4". I used S/S washers and acorn nuts. The hardware was about $8.00. The 1/4" bolts actually thread into the metric holes. It is tight but they run in with a wrench. Gives them a safety retainer feature. I retained the light bezel with a #4 S/S screw and some blue locktite on the screw. The switch operates the ground side of the relay. The 12VDC side of the relay coil is supplied by the accessory fuse. The main power comes from the battery via a 15amp fuse. This shuts the lights off when the bike is turned off, preventing accidental battery drain. The relay is mounted on the bolt that retains the noise filter. As set, each light is drawing 4.3 amps. The system seems to be doing ok. Voltage is remaining above 13.5 at idle. Runs up to about 13.8 at 2K. Without lights on I am showing about 14.1 at idle and 14.6 at 2K. The MR16 bulbs are 55 watt and appear to be a narrow flood pattern. I may change to a narrow spot later. Initial impression is good. A lot of light and the roadside is illuminated well. Total cost for the job including lights is about $45.00. This is figuring in a mil-spec waterproof switch with rubber toggle boot. Pictures attached showing screw, hardware, and finished product. JB
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Need opinions on which lowering kit works best. I would like to lower seat about 1 1/4". I'm 5'7".
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The bike was down for approx. 4 mo. while I decided if I was going to ride again and also fixing all of the broken plastic. I did start it probably twice a month during that time. Now that it is all glued back together and ready to ride, it doesn't want to run for approx. 15 to 20 minutes after starting. It seems that after the motor gets a little heat in it, it seems to even out and will idle pretty smoothly. I have run about 1/4 can of Seafoam in the first full tank, but haven't run it all out yet. It starts good, but needs to have the choke on quite a while. Also, I get a strong smell of gasoline while riding. Does this sound like carb problems, or possibly something else? Any help will be appreciated. Don H.
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I wanted a cargo carrier for a cooler and a bag rather than purchasing a trailer. Rivco makes a nice cargo carrier, 2 sizes, but rather pricey. Since I already had a Hitch Doc hitch on the bike, and no trailer, I had removed the hitch part, leaving two places for a 5/8" rod to fit in. Hmmm, I thought, How about making my own cargo tray? Had a guy weld up a tray out of stainless steel, drilled 1/4" holes in each corner to drain out water, several 1/4" holes around the lip. Welded some angle iron on the bottom for stability, and two pieces of 5/8" rod, drilled 1/4" holes to bolt it on where the hitch part was bolted on - and wallah - it worked just fine! Hope the pics come out OK.
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After some help from my brother, a Honda rider (oh well, some day he'll convert) I was able to come up with a new fuel pump. It is made by masters and is item #e8055 . It is available at Advance Auto for $62.00 including tax. It does take some modification to the bracket that it comes with and a little fudging but it is in and seems to work great so far. It looks exactly like the original but it is about 1/4 inch bigger in diamater. I'll try to attach a pic. and see what happens. It puts out 3psi which from what I can gather is what the original puts out. Feel free to ask any questions that you may have and I will try to help. Update by Freebird. The linked information for this was outdated and no longer worked. The only fuel pump I find with this part number is Airtex. I hope it's the same one. If not, let me know and I'll remove this information. http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8055-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B002XK172K