CMU Jumpering

Finally took the plunge, and ordered a HID kit. While I had the front of the bike open, I decided to jumper the reed switches, for future considerations. I've seen all of the posts concerning the jumpers, but not on an 85 CMU. My question is this: Do I jumper all 4 of the reed switches, or only certain ones?? Thanks!!

Bill W.

The 4 reed switches are for;

Low beam headlight

High beam headlight

Tail light

Brake light.

You need to do the 2 for the headlight in order to the HID, If you plan to change to LED Brake and Tail lights then you will need to jumper those also.

Just checking. Thought it might have something to do with my other problem. I'll re-check everything again!!

Back again! All wiring is correct, according to the schematic. Tried it again with the original light bulb, same result. That's why I was asking about the CMS. Guess I'll have to open it back up and see what I messed up on!! Unless there's some crazy weird problem no one has ever seen before, just my luck!

Bill W.

Back again! All wiring is correct, according to the schematic. Tried it again with the original light bulb, same result. That's why I was asking about the CMS. Guess I'll have to open it back up and see what I messed up on!! Unless there's some crazy weird problem no one has ever seen before, just my luck!

 

Bill W.

??what problem are ya having?

Attached is a diagram of MKI jumper locations.

I think saltcreep did this diagram a few years ago.

Gary

Looking to improve my headlight, I was looking through old threads to get some ideas. I found one that sounded good, a circuit to let you start your bike without the headlight coming on when you turn the key on. The rest, as they say, is history...

Originally Posted by Bill W.

Decided to upgrade to HID. Got a deal on a kit from HID Country. Modded my Venture in accordance to the instructions you had in your post (adding the relay, switch, and flashing LED, getting rid of the RLU). Connected the HID kit, started the bike, and there was the flashing red LED. Cool!! But, when I pushed the button, the voltmeter went down to about 10 volts for a few seconds, and then back to normal. The headlight never came on. One of my fuses was blown, however. I still have an old fuse panel, with the markings gone. It blows the second fuse back from the front. I'm guessing it's the headlight fuse??

I tried this a couple of times, blows the fuse, light never comes on. Your circuit was fairly easy to put together, I've already checked it. I'm hoping (guessing) the the HID kit is bad, and it will be replaced.

The bike starts and runs fine, the display works great (I jumped the switches), so I can't believe it is that. Something else, when the key is turned on, but the bike isn't running, is the headlight supposed to work when the button is pushed?? Mine doesn't.

I think I've covered it all. Since your circuit was the reason I decided to upgrade, of course it's your fault!! (Kidding!!) I would appreciate any wisdom you might want to throw my way, I'm at a loss here.

Thanks

Bill W.

I think flyinfool has experiance with the hid country install.....JEFF

Second fuse down should be the headlight fuse set for 10A.

My first question is, if you disconnected your install from the bikes orginal wiring, will it stop blowing the fuse?

Not sure how kit is installed, but suspect relay to bypass heavy load on key and start switches and fuse. You may have relay wired wrong blowing fuse. Double check proper hookup. Also possible you are not bypassing orginal fuse with relay, and heavy load is blowing fuse.

The HID Country kit is the one I originally installed before I changed to the Projector.

It's straightforward .... The H4 female on the original harness plugs into the new wiring harness and controls High/Low beams.

One heavy powerline from the battery or sub-panel carries the load, and the relay is powered by a ignition controlled positive (any will do, even the front running lights).

There are three complications:

1. The CMU needs jumpers to prevent false warnings

2. The Reserve Lighting Unit MUST be bypassed, or it won't work.

3. The whole lot needs a separate OFF/ON switch.

Without 3. there is a chance the low voltage protection in the ballast will cut in when the battery voltage drops as you hit the starter. If that happens it will need to be power-cycled to clear, and you are back where you started.

The easy way to accomplish this is to mount a toggle switch that breaks the relay activation, not power, circuit. I put mine in the ground side simply because it was convenient.

If you do it like this then the process is .... Turn on ignition, hit starter then turn on the lights from the switch. Sorted.

The High/Low on the left switch will work as intended.

He's the person I got it from. I think it's a great idea, if I can just get it to work!! It's such a simple circuit, I must have dumb*@!ed it somehow.