Steering Head

I'm trying to figure out how to check my steering head for adjustment on a 2nd gen. Right now it seems to not stay anywhere I put it and will swing from side to side bouncing off the stops.

Attached is a cut from the RSV service manual on how to do it Yamaha's way.

Some guys just take a screwdriver and bang on it till it feels good.

Or, there is a wrench available. Probably a little more work though to do it by the book.

http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3326&title=steering-head-bearing-ring-nut-wrench&cat=6

Gary

I'm about due for a new set of tires. While I've got the wheels off for the tire install, I plan to go through the book torque procedure for the head bearings. I snugged it up a couple months ago using the quickie method but they loosened up again after a few days.

I'm trying to figure out how to check my steering head for adjustment on a 2nd gen. Right now it seems to not stay anywhere I put it and will swing from side to side bouncing off the stops.

There is an article in the tech library here:

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=511

From your description, your steering bearings are quite loose. Adjustment is quick and easy following the tech article, and if done right, they do NOT loosen up again. IMHO, taking 6 hours to completely remove the fairing and handlebars to get the top plate off and access the ring nuts from the top is pretty dumb unless you are actually going to take the steering head apart and grease the bearings.

Riding any extended time with loose steering bearings will damage them, so do not put off the adjustment. Greasing the bearings is an important job that should not be skipped when due, but if that job is not due, then just take 5 minutes (instead of 6 hours) and get those bearings properly adjusted now!

Just a few comments on the tech article to help you understand it. When checking the tightness of the bearings, the forks should turn either direction from center from their OWN weight - only a gentle touch is necessary to start the motion, not a real "push". When they hit the stop at the end of the swing, they should either just stop there, or at most, rebound a small amount and hold (not hitting the stop twice). Usually this test is best turning to the left side, since the big wire bundle on the left side of the steering head sometimes causes the forks to not move as smoothly all the way to the stop on the right side.

The reason why this shortcut method of tightening the ring nuts works is a somewhat strange locking process that Yamahaha uses. The two ring nuts have a tab washer that locks them together, but that tab washer is not keyed to the shaft as you normally see - the only locking is provided by the pressure of the cap nut on the top plate against the top ring nut. Once the cap nut is loose, there is nothing that stops those ring nuts from moving together easily. And that is why that top cap nut has a 94 ft lb torque spec! A high torque is important to properly lock the ring nuts in place.

Because of this high torque, I strongly recommend you do NOT try to move that cap nut with any type of pliers - you really need the 22mm or 1 1/16" open end wrench. And since you cannot use a torque wrench on the nut when you are done, you need to go with the calibrated wrist method. Normally I discourage this, especially on any engine part or safety item like brakes, but I am comfortable with it here because the torque spec is so high, and all it does is push the plate against the ring nuts. Using an open end wrench on the cap nut, you should pretty much apply all the pressure you can to torque it down.

Goose

If you need a wrench to do this job, go see Bongobob, he has an extra in my package.

Adjustment is quick and easy following the tech article, and if done right, they do NOT loosen up again. IMHO, taking 6 hours to completely remove the fairing and handlebars to get the top plate off and access the ring nuts from the top is pretty dumb unless you are actually going to take the steering head apart and grease the bearings.

Goose

You mean you don't "moderately" repack your steering bearings every 16k miles like the book tell you to? Neither do I. I agree that to pull all that stuff off "just" to properly torque the head bearings would be dumb. But I'm doing other things, too.

My faring has to come off anyway because I want to change out my shock oil. I know, the book doesn't call for this as a regular maint procedure, but I like to do it every three years anyway. Top clamp and both forks coming out. While that is off, torquing the bearing nut is easy.

I'll also be spooning a new tire onto the front wheel, so the wheel was already coming off.

Plus something is banging around inside the fariing, I'd like to locate it.

I don't plan on pulling the head bearings, though, even though I'm way past 16k. Pretty sure that is all about liability for Yam. I just don't think that is necessary. I wait until around 50k and then just replace the bearings and races top and bottom. Bearings are cheap.