TCI & pickup coil ???????

I am aware that there was a change to the TCI & pickup coil set up on the 90-93 VR (after reading tech library) However all the manuals I have state that there is 5 wires coming from the pickup coil (stator)case & Ohms should read 100-125. This 90VR has 6 wires (colors not the same) & unable to get any Ohms reading.

Question: Should there be Ohm reading at the 6 prong plug & what should that be?

Is there a way to test the TCI?

I have spark & compression with rebuilt carbs will not fire or run (its like the timing is off)

When the plugs are pulled there seems to be a film but not soaked with gas.

Fuel pump fills float bowls & shuts off, pilot screws are turned out 2-2 1/2 turns, choke plungers all work. Lacks gas flow. Is there a need to prime carbs? I am grasping at straws. :canada:

There is an interim white connector behind the left side panel, behind the driver's leg, about 1/2 way up the vertical frame member.

The early units had five wires to support four pickup coils and a common ground. this ran to the TCI. The last few year had only one pickup coil so would only have two wires and these led to a different unit... the CDI. Totally different unit.

You can ohm at that interim connector and then on to the CDI connector.

the only thing you lose from this drawing is three of the coils. (I would imaging the CDI uses pin C but I have no real knowledge)

http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci/tciplugs.jpg

The pick up coil spec for the 90-93 is 81~121 ohms at 68 deg. F.

The pick up coil leads are black and orange and are in the 6 pin connector to the ignition module. Your colors/locations may be different than the 85 diagram mbrood pictured.

The wiring diagram shows a connector (also black/orange wires) between the pick up coil and the wiring harness. I'm guessing that connector will be in the same neighborhood as the alternator connector. That would be along the frame behind the left rear cylinder.

There is no test in the book for the ignition module. The procedure is to rule out everything else then replace the module.

.......has 6 pins/wires, where the older models has 5 pins/wires. The TCI/CDI has a 6 prong plug with 6 wires & an 8 prong plug with the first 2(close to the center /next to the 6 prong plug) are empty then the 6 are wired.

TCI/CDI Plug in(6)

Orange, Black, Black/red

Black/W, Blue/White, Black Yellow

Plug in (8)

MT, Black/red, Grey/Red, Orange.

MT, Black/red dot, White/red, Yellow.

Ign Coils (4)

Grey/Red, White/Red

Orange, Yellow

Pick up coil plug (6)

Blue/White, Yellow, Pink

Red/White, Lt Blue, White

Hope this clears the water & dose not make it muddier :canada:

Here, try this link...

http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/90-93%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DA%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

90VR. It would backfire through the carbs.??????? Thought it was pick up coils/CDI,TCI. re out of time. Switched spark plug leads from rear cylinders to front cylinders & it fired up & is running. Go Figger! Looking at the wire harness the ignitor coil wire that is furthest forward goes to the front coil however fires the rear cylinder & rear coil firing front cylinder. Having a hard time wrapping my head around this set up.

However it dose run. :canada:

I'm thinking the primaries to the coils got switched at some point. Number one cylinder is the left rear, number 2 is the front. There was recently a thread that listed the primary coil wire colors in this forum...

The front coil should have the front plug wire, and the rear coil should have the rear wire.

Click this link, post 17 for the coil wire primary

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=56625

It pertains to an earlier VR but the wiring colors should still be the same.

Wonder if someone did head/cam work and got valve timing 180 out? If so I don't think all 4 are hitting correct.

After 22 hours in the shop & many checks & re checks of cam position & piston placement we pulled the fly wheel to find the key mangled & the crank shaft galled. After cleaning up the shaft & replacing the Key everything lines up, timing mark, piston at TDC, cams marks lined up. So once I get it back together it should fire up, then on to plastic & paint. Hope to be riding this Trike this season. :canada:

After 22 hours in the shop & many checks & re checks of cam position & piston placement we pulled the fly wheel to find the key mangled & the crank shaft galled. After cleaning up the shaft & replacing the Key everything lines up, timing mark, piston at TDC, cams marks lined up. So once I get it back together it should fire up, then on to plastic & paint. Hope to be riding this Trike this season. :canada:

Sounds like you got it under control now!! Good Luck!!

Never had that happen on a bike. Had that happen on a lawnmower or two. Also had the outer ring on harmonic balancers spin a little bit.

Jips

seems like I hve the same problem.....

Same symptoms, only whe I switch the ignition of 1 & 3, and 3 & 4, it starts, but doesn't run nicely. When you twist the throttle, it shoots & bangs, and die...

Had you the same symptoms?

grtz, D

Jips

 

seems like I hve the same problem.....

Same symptoms, only whe I switch the ignition of 1 & 3, and 3 & 4, it starts, but doesn't run nicely. When you twist the throttle, it shoots & bangs, and die...

Had you the same symptoms?

 

grtz, D

It ran like crap but we got it started, backfired up through the carbs, sluggish no power but was running.

Do you have a manual?

To find out if the Woodruff key has sheared, we

1.remove the spark plugs

2.remove stator case timing plug & cover (2 screws)

3. line up 1tdc mark & check if #1 cylinder is at tdc (my piston was down about 1" @tdc

We also removed the valve covers to see if timing chain had jumped, that pointed us in the right direction. Hope that helps. I'm away from home (spring break) but will check in (it an addiction) :canada:

Jips

I guess it's the same then..

Monday I'll check the key.

I already checked the ignition with the timing light, that's how i figured out to swithc the wires, and the checking of the TDC was equal to the conclusions with the timing light.

grtz, D

Jips

Had some time this afternoon, and removed the flywheel.

Woodruff key in place, nothing strange to see inside.

any idea what else could be wrong?

grtz, D

Jips

 

Had some time this afternoon, and removed the flywheel.

Woodruff key in place, nothing strange to see inside.

any idea what else could be wrong?

 

grtz, D

Had to go back to your orginal post http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=567089#post567089 to remember what your problem was.

If no problem with flywheel, and timing is off as you posted, then the only thing left is that your overhead cams are improperly set. Suggest pull valve covers and in order of cam install procedure, check and adjust cams. May as well check valve lash while you are here.

Jips

I didn't know that there was a feedback from the cams to the ignition.

I'll check it tomorrow.

Hope till then I find another startermotor too, cause I burned it today while checking the ignition again with the strobo.

grtz, D

Jips

today I checked the cams, and they are fine.

Also the valve lash is within tolerance.

Tomorrow I will clean the carbs, since I removed them anyway to check the cams.

There was something today that I found strange thow:

The colors of the wires from the pickup coils are just the opposite of the colors of the wires in the cables that goes to the TCI (I mean at the connector halfway between pickup coils and tci). Is this normal?

orange and gray are switched, and white/red and white/green also.

Could that explain why I needed to switch the connectors at the ignition coils?

grtz, D

Jips

cleaned my carbs yesterday, but engine runs still the same.

Have the feeling that cilinders 3 & 4 are not working, since (with no exhausts) the air out of the exhaust is cold. So if I count it all together:

checked ignition timing/checked camshaft timing/measured pickup coils/measured ignition coils/ cleaned carbs...

The only thing that is left would be the TCI I guess?

grtz, D

Jips

 

cleaned my carbs yesterday, but engine runs still the same.

Have the feeling that cilinders 3 & 4 are not working, since (with no exhausts) the air out of the exhaust is cold. So if I count it all together:

checked ignition timing/checked camshaft timing/measured pickup coils/measured ignition coils/ cleaned carbs...

The only thing that is left would be the TCI I guess?

 

grtz, D

Are you getting any spark from either of these plugs?

If you are, I would think TCI is functioning.

Not saying it could not happen, but for the TCI to internally change its timing output, would seem implausible.

If it is firing at all, I would then suggest a timing light and marking the rotor in some fashion with the cylinder in question at TDC. There is a 1" approx dia plug on the front of stator cover for this purpose. I don't kmow if there is a timing mark for both cylinders though. I am fairly sure there is one for #1 cyl at TDC. This would be a start.

Gary