essixx Posted April 10, 2013 #1 Posted April 10, 2013 Hi All, Want to contibute and put information that I had to dig for, in one place for everyone. The Harbor Freight Tag-a-long trailer uses a grease seal that is 30x52x10mm. Amazon has them. They call it an "Engine Oil seal. I just packed my bearings and this looks to be the exact seal HF uses. Redtrailers.com has them too and part# is SJ8510-18B. They also have the complete hub assembly with pre-greased bearings as part# SJ8510-18-30205B. Amazon also has the bearings with race with the bearing # being 30205. Original Dust cap is carried by Harbor Freight as Item #93833. This is an odd sized dust cap and is not carried by some places. It measures at 2.06" So those that would like to use A Bearing Buddy would use #2047. I hope this helps someone.
RedRider Posted April 10, 2013 #2 Posted April 10, 2013 I might suggest getting the bearing from a good manufacturer. Amazon is likely selling the same cheap Chinese bearing originally in the HF trailer. I quick search of Motion Industries (bearing house), shows a Timken 30205M (M designates a complete bearing vs. just the inner or outer race) in stock for $27.55. http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/productSearch.jsp Good info on the dust cap and Bearing Buddy. Thanks. RR
essixx Posted April 11, 2013 Author #3 Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) Not sure what you mean by both the inner & outer race. The Amaazon Bearing I have, which is RBI manufacture labeled, is the outer race and tapered roller bearing ready to be greased and put in your hub and onto your axel. I do see the Bearings they have now are "VXB" branded, so I see you don't always know what you will get. You are correct,my bearing is made in China. Thank you for pointing out an alternative. TIMKEN is a quality part. I believe the M designation means "Through hardened steel" instead of "case hardened steel" but I could be wrong. The dust cap had me going for a while. Had to use my calipers and then google it. Edited April 12, 2013 by essixx
RedRider Posted April 11, 2013 #4 Posted April 11, 2013 Not sure what you mean by both the inner & outer race. The Amaazon Bearing I have, which is RBI manufacture labeled, is the outer race and tapered roller bearing ready to be greased and put in your hub and onto your axel. I do see the Bearings they have now are "VXB" branded, so I see you don't always know what you will get. You are correct,my bearing is made in China. Thank you for pointing out an alternative. TIMKIN is a quality part. I believe the M designation means "Through hardened steel" instead of "case hardened steel" but I could be wrong. The dust cap had me going for a while. Had to use my calipers and then google it. None of the Timken tapers are thru hardened (I was a bearing engr for Timken in a former life). All are case hardened. A tapered brg will die an early death if hardened thru the rear rib. It will crack right off if a shock load hits. The M designates a complete bearing set (tapered bearing plus cup - cup is the outer race). Quality brands are Timken, NTN (Japan), Koyo (Japan), NSK (Japan), SKF (Sweden), FAG (Germany). I don't trust Chinese bearings. RR
essixx Posted April 12, 2013 Author #6 Posted April 12, 2013 (edited) RedRider, I am a Master Mechanic (Electician, Machinist and Mechanic) in well known spice packaging plant. And since I am a mechanic and you are an Engineer we are sworn rivals:). I went to work today and got out the TIMKEN PRODUCT CATALOG I use to reference bearings:detective:, and found this page below. This is the information I had in mind when I made my post about a THROUGH hardedned part I admit this information has very little to do with my original post, I hope you take this banter as good natured fun. I would bet as a Bearing Engineer you have forgotten way more about bearings than I will ever know:bowdown: http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j109/essixx/TIMKIN_zps7cff9877.jpg Edited April 12, 2013 by essixx
RedRider Posted April 12, 2013 #7 Posted April 12, 2013 Apparently, I stand corrected. Perhaps some things have changed in the last 25 years since I worked for Timken. Although, no engineer worth their stripe will ignore a Master Mechanic. While you may not care to 'do the math' about a problem, your experience in knowing how things work make your input very valuable. In my current position doing automation engineering, I recognized long ago that no one knows more about a machine function and process than the machine operator and the mechanic/maintenance personnel that supports it. Ignore their experience and input at your own peril. Thanks for the update. RR
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