Worth fixing the ignition switch?

I mentioned in an earlier thread that my ignition switch has started to go (Have to wiggle it around to get things going). I am now attempting to install a fuse block (ATC style - 6 positions) and some relays (Driving lights, headlight) to avoid a repeat of this problem. I also plan on installing a switched bypass - just in case. In the meantime, I ran across a thread where someone disassembled their ignition switch, cleaned it and reinstalled it. I was wondering if this is worth the trouble? Will it last or die an early death? I read another thread that stated that sanding the contacts might remove all or most of any coating they had leading to an early failure. If this is true, I see no reason to do that much work only to have to replace the switch later.

The stores in this area are light on parts so I had to get a 6 fuse block. It's a bit big, and trying to fit it near the battery is tricky. I'm thinking of attaching it by means of a hook and loop fastener to the rear fender just behind the driver's seat. The only other available spot is under the front of the driver's seat over the various vent hoses. As far as I can tell, the seat doesn't press it against the hoses but it is still a tight fit. The fender seems like a better option. I've attached pics of the block and the two potential mounting spots. If I go for the fender, I will have to attach something to the bottom of the block to fit between the existing wires - sort of a smaller pedestal. Squeezing it under those wires would make a fuse change too difficult. Does anyone see a disadvantage to the fender mount? There should be enough weather protection but I could try to fabricate some kind of cover to give it a bit more protection if necessary.

Sorry this is so long, but I want to get it right the first time. I hadn't planned on this and had been saving towards the upgraded clutch kit, which I also need. Now this has thrown me a bit of a curve as dollars are a bit tight these days- as most of us know only too well!

Andy

My switch started doing that yesterday, had to wiggle it, so the beast is parked untill I can fix it. I have the wires bypassed, so all I should have to do is connect them together, but still don`t want to mess with it on the side of the road. I am going to open it up and see if any solder is melted off, and if I can re-solder it. I do not have running lights, so I have nothing extra going through the switch, but my key has been getting hot for the last year, so figure it is on its way out. I tried to look on PinWall for a used switch to use while I operate on mine, but their site would not open all the way, any way I need to try somthing as a new one costs to much right now...

Mike (Eusa1) is real good at fixing them , he does have photos on how to do it as well, hope he see's this thread.

I will PM him for you.

Jeff

Mike (Eusa1) is real good at fixing them , he does have photos on how to do it as well, hope he see's this thread.

I will PM him for you.

Jeff

Thanks. I appreciate the info. I had found a thread by Ozmonster that had some pics and a bit of a description as to how he had disassembled his switch and cleaned it. But I also ran across a thread mentioning that such a repair may not last once you sand down the contacts. It would be nice if Mike could shed more light on this.

Andy

My switch started doing that yesterday, had to wiggle it, so the beast is parked untill I can fix it. I have the wires bypassed, so all I should have to do is connect them together, but still don`t want to mess with it on the side of the road. I am going to open it up and see if any solder is melted off, and if I can re-solder it. I do not have running lights, so I have nothing extra going through the switch, but my key has been getting hot for the last year, so figure it is on its way out. I tried to look on PinWall for a used switch to use while I operate on mine, but their site would not open all the way, any way I need to try somthing as a new one costs to much right now...

Try accessing the Pinwall site through Ebay. I was on yesterday and they showed 4 switches available for $149.00 each. The price included some or all of the other locks on the bike so that you could still use just one key for all or most of the other locks. Right now, though, I'd like to avoid spending that much if I can avoid it...that's why I'm hoping that the present switch could be cleaned up and / or repaired. As for the bypass, one thread showed a keyed switch that had been installed in the bypass so that the bypass was available but still secure. Looked quite interesting to me as I can get a keyed auto type ignition switch at NAPA for about $30.00.

Andy

Andy

I put the bypass togle on the neck cover in front of the tank. Found a ignition switch on internet (new) printed it off and carried it to my local dealer ---he matched it and beat it by a couple of bucks (around $145). took the new switch to a local locksmith and he rekeyed it to my origional (about $35). After all that---not another hint of trouble. My new correct keyed switch is in the workbench.

darthandy and cougar both have a pm:backinmyday:

My ignition switch completely died on me and left me stranded, so I cleaned the contacts on it and routed all the power thru a 60 amp relay, and the only thing the ignition switch turns on is the relay. Did it 3 years ago and have had no problems since. Relay was only about 12 bucks at an electronic shop.

do you have a write up of "how to" ???

My ignition switch completely died on me and left me stranded, so I cleaned the contacts on it and routed all the power thru a 60 amp relay, and the only thing the ignition switch turns on is the relay. Did it 3 years ago and have had no problems since. Relay was only about 12 bucks at an electronic shop.

If your sending a "How to" I would like a copy as well, I have wired the by-pass per Eck`s photo, but do not know if it works, spose I`ll find out if the switch craps out..

Thanks, Kreg

darthandy and cougar both have a pm:backinmyday:

The fuse block fit well behind the battery on the plastic cover. Two small screws hold it in place quite well.

If you need a picture send me an email at brad.tuckett@metso.com and I will send a couple

BRad

The fuse block fit well behind the battery on the plastic cover. Two small screws hold it in place quite well.

 

If you need a picture send me an email at brad.tuckett@metso.com and I will send a couple

 

BRad

Thanks for the info. In fact, after I wrote the thread, I went back out and started fooling with the fuse block and discovered that, yes indeedy, it does fit against that cover under the wires (I have an extra bundle there due to the alarm the PO had installed). I planned on using double sided tape to hold it in place - I like to avoid drilling holes in my bikes whenever I can - just a peculiarity I have.

Andy

....

Thanks for the info. In fact, after I wrote the thread, I went back out and started fooling with the fuse block and discovered that, yes indeedy, it does fit against that cover under the wires (I have an extra bundle there due to the alarm the PO had installed). I planned on using double sided tape to hold it in place - I like to avoid drilling holes in my bikes whenever I can - just a peculiarity I have.

 

Andy

My ignition switch completely died on me and left me stranded, so I cleaned the contacts on it and routed all the power thru a 60 amp relay, and the only thing the ignition switch turns on is the relay. Did it 3 years ago and have had no problems since. Relay was only about 12 bucks at an electronic shop.

Same with mine, PIA to get it apart but if the contact plate is not toast clean it up

and add a little dielectric grease, good to go.

The switch on my 99 went out while on a trip. Called my friend and he looked at a forum (other one) and the steps were there to hot wire it. I used spade terminals on cut wires and cross wired it. Got home, took switch apart, soldered in a new blob for contacts. Worked for another year and half before my friend that bought the 99 had to get new switch. He still has the spaded wires in place if he ever needs them. One thing, taking the OEM switch off, you will probably need a chisel to remove the "no head" bolts.

Good Luck,

MIKE aka Uturn