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Posted

Has anyone encountered THIS one before?

 

At the end of the season last fall I had my lines and cables switched over to black braided steel which look good, feels good..

 

However, at the end of the season, I was no longer able to engage cruise control on the bike, either in 5th or 4th no matter what I did.. the lights would cycle through but when you released the throttle it wouldn't engage and then start the lights cycling all over again as if you hit a huge bump that disengaged it..

 

I have a very deep suspicious feeling that this started due to something the Yammy shop forgot to hook up or broke or pooched somehow. I KNOW it worked before going into the shop but stopped working after I got it back from the shop, but it was a few weeks afterward before I actually tried to use it..

 

I'll pulling the tank off the bike this week to change plugs, so now is the opportune time to have a look to see if anything is amiss.. Can't ride the bike yet, still winter up here.. but if there is something I can check now, I would certainly appreciate any help forthcoming.. I don't know what to look for at this point..

 

I'm gonna NEED my Cruise Control for the big trip in May lol

 

Thanks again M8

Posted (edited)

I think Don posted on the same symptom after installing Flanders Bars and I encountered the same problem when I installed my Flanders Bar...which requires replacing the throttle cables. When you remove the throttle cable linkage pully cover, there is a spring inside which has to be oriented correctly upon re-assembly. The spring has a straight tail on it which has to be hooked on the pully wheel to allow set/cancel features to work correctly.

 

Hopefully I've correctly attached a photo for clarity.

Edited by Venturing Sole
Posted

oh, so both generations DO have the same squirrelly, circley, springy thingy. I coulda left my post up. Good luck Seaking.

Posted
oh, so both generations DO have the same squirrelly, circley, springy thingy. I coulda left my post up. Good luck Seaking.

 

LOL thanks, I'll be looking at it tomorrow / weekend.. I think this was it..

Posted
I think Don posted on the same symptom after installing Flanders Bars and I encountered the same problem when I installed my Flanders Bar...which requires replacing the throttle cables. When you remove the throttle cable linkage pully cover, there is a spring inside which has to be oriented correctly upon re-assembly. The spring has a straight tail on it which has to be hooked on the pully wheel to allow set/cancel features to work correctly.

 

Hopefully I've correctly attached a photo for clarity.

 

Thanks M8.. where is this part located? Does the tank have to be removed to access it? I suspect they might have pooched this one on the re-install... if so, I might pay them a visit to 'fix it..'.. Hmm

 

Cheers!

Posted

It's on the left side, just up under the tank. I'm not home to look...but if I remember correctly, the tank has to be removed or at least raised up a bit to get to it. Anyway, it's on the left side toward the front of the tank.

Posted

This is a little hard to explain without pictures or drawings, but I'll give it a shot.

 

The cable junction box has two plastic wheels where the various cables are connected. The top one has the four throttle cables, and the bottom one has the single cruise cable. The two wheels are mated together with ridges something like this: -/-, with the - - on the bottom wheel, and the / on the back of the top wheel. This allows the bottom wheel to turn the top wheel when the cruise cable is pulled, but there is no engagement when it is pushed. The problem is that it is very easy to put the top wheel on with the engagement ridges like this: -\-, and the fix is simply to raise it up slightly and turn it so the ridges engage correctly. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
I think Don posted on the same symptom after installing Flanders Bars and I encountered the same problem when I installed my Flanders Bar...which requires replacing the throttle cables. When you remove the throttle cable linkage pully cover, there is a spring inside which has to be oriented correctly upon re-assembly. The spring has a straight tail on it which has to be hooked on the pully wheel to allow set/cancel features to work correctly.

 

Hopefully I've correctly attached a photo for clarity.

 

A photo is worth 1,000 words and with the first pic and what goose explained I think I found the problem however, a test ride will say more..

 

when I opened the case, the cable coming out of the case out of the bottom was all loose and actually looped away from the wheel.. when I turned the throttle I could see that cable moving when the case was open nor hear it when the case was closed. All I could figure out to do was lift the top most wheel and rotate it clockwise (looking down at it as in the photo) which then took up the slack on the single cable.. When the case was closed, then I could hear that cable move when moving the throttle.. I think this is the fix and can see how an inexperienced mech could pooch it.. however, if this is not the fix then I shall book some shop time with them until they fix it.. warranty or no warranty.. ;)

 

thanks all.. much appreciated.

 

Goose, I couldn't see those markings to described though.. bad eyesight on my part perhaps..

Posted

Don't have to be inexperienced to goof it up. Rushing will do it too.

 

Key is that the cable to the cruise actuator should pull the throttle open, but opening the throttle should not move the cable to the cruise. And that spring keeps the cruise cable taught so it doesn't kink up when you open the throttle.

 

Also, if there is not enough free play in the cables they'll bind a bit. The vacuum motor may not have enough pull to overcome the binding.

Posted
Don't have to be inexperienced to goof it up. Rushing will do it too.

 

Key is that the cable to the cruise actuator should pull the throttle open, but opening the throttle should not move the cable to the cruise. And that spring keeps the cruise cable taught so it doesn't kink up when you open the throttle.

 

Also, if there is not enough free play in the cables they'll bind a bit. The vacuum motor may not have enough pull to overcome the binding.

 

I took the bike out for a spirited 'shaking of the cob webs' ride today in brisk cold weather ahhh but that was worth it.. SIGH.. finally on the bike again..

 

However, the cruise control still did not work.. I know how to access the internal set up of the wheels and such but not how to put it together properly, there are such many different ways.. Ideally I will have to take the bike back to them and have them fix it back up properly, the right away since they're the ones who pooched it in the first place.. sigh.. Shame, I thought I had it fixed..

  • 1 year later...
Posted
oh, so both generations DO have the same squirrelly, circley, springy thingy. I coulda left my post up. Good luck Seaking.

 

 

I didnt know that was the technical term for it... :stickpoke::rotfl:.....lol

 

 

 

Brian

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