CLASS Connector Problem

Hi,

On my 86 VR, the CLASS white plug connector appears to have a problem. When I turn the ignition with inserted key to ACC, the CLASS monitor will come on, light up w/the normal wording, and then display only the "PSI" lettering in the upper right corner. I may or may not get an error message; however, I am unable to adjust the air pressure. Then, if I open the CLASS door panel and push and/or press on the CLASS white plug connector, the monitor will continue to reactivate and finally stay connected long enough to allow me to adjust the front and rear air pressure. Do you think the problem is in the white plug itself or does the circuit board connectors that the white plug connects to need to be resoldered?

I hate to talk bad about my 86 VR; however, as advanced as this bike was in 1986, you would think Yamaha would have come up with a better CLASS electronic connectivity design. It seems kinda cheap compared to the rest of the bike. Don't mean to upset anyone, just my opinion.

Anyway, let me know your thoughts and past experiences concerning this question.

Thank you,

Allen

Dallas, Texas

But just once every 20 years, it wants you to open it up and resolder the few pins on the circuit board that mate to the wiring harness... Heat the PINS not the solder or circuit board land... heat the pin and apply just apply the LEAST new solder to the land once the solder melts. Then you're good for another 20 years or more... That's all there is to it.

Back in 1986 the solder wasn't as good either. Use some good silver solder and redo all of the solder joints and you should be good for another 20 years.....

MBrood,

When you stated, "Heat the Pins, Not the Solder". I gather you mean heat only the connector pins with the soldering iron hot enough to melt the solder. Then, touch the solder to each connector pin until it melts and only use the smallest amount of solder necessary. CORRECT?????

Thanks,

Allen

Dallas, Texas

The problem is that there is some microscopic corrosion between the pin and solder and you want to get rid of that... Heating the solder with the iron AT ALL will just melt the solder and nothing gets fixed.

You want to put the iron on the TIP of the pin so IT heats... As IT gets hot IT will melt the solder around it (breaking down the corrosion and giving you a good joint. Then just add a small dab of solder to the solder "puddle"... what you are really adding is a small bit of flux to help the joint. NEVER use acid core... that's for plumbing... just regualr ole electronic solder.

So the iron never touches anything but the connector pin tip... now we ARE talking about the little bit that goes THROUGH the circuit board.

While you are in there... disconnect the ribbon cable in there and give it a small bit of dialectric grease and reconnect. When you are all buttoned back up, add a little grease to the main pins... you'll probably never be in there again.

I would try some CRC Electric Cleaner (Wally Mart) and some dielectric grease on the white connector first. If that doesn't do the job, then tear into the circut board.

Just my two cents.

Earl

One other note, make sure your solder gun is very hot before you touch the pins. You actually do not want to over heat the pins for a long time as they are mounted in a plastic housing and it will melt around the pin.

RandyA

I had the identical symptoms, but the problem was in the board. A break in an internal solder point in the board is temporaliy rectified when you push on the connector. That's my guess. Pull the board out, get a magnifying glass out, and inspect . Make sure you read all the posts here about finding and fixing bad solder joints in the board. Good luck, it aint that difficult.

I have read the posts before and know what needs to be done. I also know my limitations. If I get within arms length with a soldering gun, everything melts. Would anyone be willing to do this for me? I have an extra unit I can send and would be willing to compensate you for it.

I have read the posts before and know what needs to be done. I also know my limitations. If I get within arms length with a soldering gun, everything melts. Would anyone be willing to do this for me? I have an extra unit I can send and would be willing to compensate you for it.

YOU MUST HAVE ONE OF THEM BIG SOLDERING GUNS,ITS EASY TO DO,JUST NEED A FINE TIP IRON AND A STEADY HAND,OR SHOOT ME A PM AND SEND IT TO ME, I DO IT

I have soldered several units. I have a good variable soldering iron and station. Send it over and I will be glad to clean, solder, and test the unit on my 1986.

JB

Hey lonestarmedic,

would you also offer that resolder job to a fellow FF from Oklahoma? I seem not to be able to fix mine. I would also be willing to pay you for your services. Thanks,

Kevin

Send it on over. I just finished my new workbench in the garage. Got good light and a clean spot. If that don't fix it, I always have the mig welder. I do have a fee for the service. You must help someone in the future and make sure to charge the same fee.

JB

Sounds like a deal

Kevin

On my 88 I actually bought a whole new controller from yamaha and come to find out it was not the controller at all. 546.00 later it ended up being the harness that plugs into the unit. What I had to do is crimp each small butt conector tighter together as to get a better conection. Hope this helps