Tying into battery - How?

I have a couple projects for my '06 RSTD where I have been told that I ought to wire the device straight to the battery, or words to that effect. The idea is to not tap into an existing wire, but to get closer to the original source of power.

• Air horns, where they need lots of juice to get really loud.
  
• My passing lamps, where I want to have them on regardless whether the headlight is on high or low beam. I'll wire a relay so that if the running lights are on, the passing lamps are on.
  

My question is: how? How do I energize these?

What is the physical connection, and where? Do you go into the fuse box, or splice a wire, or what?

For the passing lamps and other front-end projects, how do you get the wire back to the battery? Do you remove the tank and find some sort of cable chase to run the wires? I suppose duct tape ain't the thing.

I've delayed re-doing my passing lamps because of my lack of understanding, and I am buying myself a pair of Bad Boy air horns from Harbor Freight for Christmas. So I am hoping to spend between now and then understanding what to do and maybe doing the passing lamps.

I'm not a dunce, but photos would be invaluable. But really, any help would be very appreciated.

Dave

Solder (don't rely on crimp connections) some ring terminals to the wires and attach them under the screws of the battery, on top of the main cable terminals. Or else bolt them down to the other ends of the main cables. The negative one goes to a place on the engine, and the positive goes to the starter solenoid.

I've used inline fuses for add ons like these. Or you might get an extra fuse box from a parts bike and mount that somewhere.

Run wires down a frame rail or something right beside other wiring harnesses and attach them with electric tape. If you get a few of them going to the same place, wrap the whole bunch up in tape.

Get some Bosh Relays, as Auto Parts Dealer, Power any added accessories thru a Relay.

See this link. --- Be sure to Install " INLine " fuses, for all added accesories.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et208.htm

I bought a power block from the electrical connection which has it'r own relay it has 5 or 6 fused connectors I used it for my J&M CB Zumo GPS and MY Gerbing Heated gear still have connections left over for the horn I want.

I bought a power block from the electrical connection which has it'r own relay it has 5 or 6 fused connectors I used it for my J&M CB Zumo GPS and MY Gerbing Heated gear still have connections left over for the horn I want.

Have you got a product number, name, model # for that? How about a pic?

First of all, thanks for the good information.

I bought a power block from the electrical connection which has it'r own relay it has 5 or 6 fused connectors I used it for my J&M CB Zumo GPS and MY Gerbing Heated gear still have connections left over for the horn I want.

What do you use to power the relay? Where did you find this power block and how is it mounted?

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/elect/et208.htm

Same basic idea, for any item you want to add. Use Bosh Relays, they are the best.

In line Fuse, and mount your New Switch for the New item. Switch controls the relay, and Relay controls the heavy current to the New device.

Relay fed direct from battery, thru the new IN-Line Fuse. USE #16 wire. Stranded.

Solder ALL new Spade connector, on wire ends, Use Rosin Core Solder. Use Heat Shrink Tubeing on all Connections.

Don't forget Ty-Raps, to Secure all the New Wire Runs. Use red wire for Hot, and black for ground, to be able to figure things out in the future, when your new wireing fails -- sorry, I just could not resist that---

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/elect/et208.htm

 

Same basic idea, for any item you want to add. Use Bosh Relays, they are the best.

 

In line Fuse, and mount your New Switch for the New item. Switch controls the relay, and Relay controls the heavy current to the New device.

 

Relay fed direct from battery, thru the new IN-Line Fuse. USE #16 wire. Stranded.

 

Solder ALL new Spade connector, on wire ends, Use Rosin Core Solder. Use Heat Shrink Tubeing on all Connections.

 

Don't forget Ty-Raps, to Secure all the New Wire Runs. Use red wire for Hot, and black for ground, to be able to figure things out in the future, when your new wireing fails -- sorry, I just could not resist that---

I get a "

The requested URL /mgtech/elect/et208.htm was not found on this server.

" when I click that link...??

the word elect should be electric. Use the one from the email earlier. It is correct

I installed this auxiliary fuse box under the seat in front of the battery underneath all those hoses and wires... You can find this at Napa... hope these pictures help you out...

http://67.122.16.97/carterman/4runner/mods/fuseblock/fuseblock3.jpg

http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/images/relay-1.jpg

http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/images/Schematic4.gif

I installed this auxiliary fuse box under the seat in front of the battery underneath all those hoses and wires... You can find this at Napa... hope these pictures help you out...

 

 

Thanks a bunch! That's very good!

I got one more pic for you... Make sure and get the insulated blade connectors... I didn't solder mine and have had no problem with the crimp connectors... I slide the insulated part up the wire and crimp the metal part to the bare wire then slide the insulated piece back over the connector and hook er up...

My battery had like 4 or 5 wires hanging off the terminals and it was getting hard to catch the post screw to the nut underneath because of it... Now I just have 1 heavy gauge wire to the fusebox and all my accessories (Horn, GPS, passing lamps, cigarette lighter) have there own fuse now and it's a lot more organized...

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g23/klm4755/brake%20rotor/IMGP5420.jpg

Sorry, I typed the link wrong.

Try this---

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et208.htm

I installed this auxiliary fuse box under the seat in front of the battery underneath all those hoses and wires... You can find this at Napa... hope these pictures help you out...

 

http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/images/Schematic4.gif

Thanks for the pictures, they really help. I'm sorry I am so dense, but...

In the diagram above, you replace the 20A Fuse block with your new fuse box? That way, you split off power using your fuse box rather than replicating all this for each item? How heavy a wire do you think it should be going between the fuse box and the battery?

One project I am thinking about is dual air horns. In that case, line 1 would be the switched wire going to the existing horn? Should I run each horn to a separate fuse/relay or can I split the #5 wire coming out of the relay?

I suppose there is no problem powering the relays with the Auxillary Power line (which I believe exists)? That way, whenever the key is in aux or on, my options are powered?

One final question for anyone. Let's pretend that I want to do things right when powering items on the front end, so I take off the tank and run a wire under it. (I am assuming that is the right thing to do, mind you) Is it acceptable to include some spare wire pairs for future use?

Can you tell that getting such great answers is making me excited?

Here's what mine is like on my RSV

Awesome photos! Thanks!

Thanks for the pictures, they really help. I'm sorry I am so dense, but...

 

In the diagram above, you replace the 20A Fuse block with your new fuse box? That way, you split off power using your fuse box rather than replicating all this for each item? How heavy a wire do you think it should be going between the fuse box and the battery?

 

Yes Dave you got it... the fuse box would take the place of the 20A fuse in the diagram... I used 12 gauge wire

 

One project I am thinking about is dual air horns. In that case, line 1 would be the switched wire going to the existing horn? Should I run each horn to a separate fuse/relay or can I split the #5 wire coming out of the relay?

 

I don't think you would need 2 circuits for the horn but I guess it would depend on the amp draw...

 

I suppose there is no problem powering the relays with the Auxillary Power line (which I believe exists)? That way, whenever the key is in aux or on, my options are powered?

 

No problem... As a matter of fact that's exactlly what you want to do... AND if you want to use a toggle switch you want that in between your tapped keyed wire and the relay.. You can use the power outlet in the fairing, parking lamp circuit, headlight, etc.

 

One final question for anyone. Let's pretend that I want to do things right when powering items on the front end, so I take off the tank and run a wire under it. (I am assuming that is the right thing to do, mind you) Is it acceptable to include some spare wire pairs for future use?

 

I wish I thought of that... It would have saved me some time... To take that a step further... You can re-wire (using heavier than stock wire) the power outlet in the fairing to a 20A power outlet so you can plug in heated clothing or air compressor or any other high draw item... And you could use a toggle switch on it... I know sometimes I want power to charge my phone without using the key... Then you could use the original outlet circuit to just power your relay(s).. Only down side to this is the factory fuse for this circuit is under the right lower cowling..

 

Can you tell that getting such great answers is making me excited?

That ought to keep you going for a while... Good luck

I installed this auxiliary fuse box under the seat in front of the battery underneath all those hoses and wires... You can find this at Napa... hope these pictures help you out...

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/images/Schematic4.gif

In the above diagram, do you connect the "to switched power" to a live positive that is only live when you turn the ignition on?... or??

And that way, the accessory connected only has power when the ignition is turned on?

In the above diagram, do you connect the "to switched power" to a live positive that is only live when you turn the ignition on?... or??

 

Yes switched power is something that is powered when the key is on (like the power port on the fairing)... See it's safe to tap into a circuit because you're only adding the voltage (which is minimal) that it takes to switch the relay off and on... You're not powering the actual accessory.. the 2 red wires (in diagram) are powering the accessory and these need to be heavier gauge than the green wire which is used to switch the relay off and on...

 

And that way, the accessory connected only has power when the ignition is turned on?

 

Yes I know... if it was rewired from the new fusebox with heavier wire (and old wiring disconnected) and a 20A fuse and a toggle switch it would then work whenever the toggle switch was turned on... not the key... BTW you wouldn't need a relay for this..

I hope this clears it up..

I hope this clears it up..

It sure does...and thanks a bunch... from this thread and your info I've just finished installing my Auxilliary Fuse box. It was a "piece of cake"! BTW, I used 10 gauge wire from the battery to the fuse box.

(damn those short screws they put into the battery terminals eh)

(good thing I've had LOTS of experience with those and have a specially made (by me) hooked screwdriver to hold the nut up)

Have you got a product number, name, model # for that? How about a pic?

http://www.electricalconnection.com/

to activate the relay i tied into the accessorie wire on the power block there is a connection where you can attach you battery charger when the key is off there are pictures on the web site I mounted mine on the plastic shelf at a angle above the battery hope this helps.

Or...you can do it the easy way:

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Horn_Kits/horn_kits.html

Or...you can do it the easy way:

 

 

 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/Horn_Kits/horn_kits.html

Thats a good site, I have that one saved in my favorites now

In the above diagram, do you connect the "to switched power" to a live positive that is only live when you turn the ignition on?... or??

 

And that way, the accessory connected only has power when the ignition is turned on?

So, if I wanted to have the fuse block I add to be hot only when the bike is running, would I place the relay in between the battery and the new fuse block?

I really want the fuse block hot only when the bike is running.

Or is there a better way to accomlish that?

Thanks!

So, if I wanted to have the fuse block I add to be hot only when the bike is running, would I place the relay in between the battery and the new fuse block?

 

I really want the fuse block hot only when the bike is running.

 

Or is there a better way to accomlish that?

 

Thanks!