Stranded with brakes sticking and heating up? Read this..

I tryed..

again

That's a great write-up, Cowpuc. This should definetly be in the tech library. I know Don is out in Colorado right now. Is anyone filling in for him?

Good work! This is a good argument for flushing the hydraulics every couple years - hopefully to avoid these problems.

Jeremy

Cowpuc:

Awesome write-up! I think I the guy who recommended the wire brush bristle, glad it worked for you.

I wouldn't recommend using one on your carbs though. The brass jets in the carbs can be scratched/altered by a steel strand. Folks on the other lists I'm on recommend using something from a plastic scrub brush, or plastic guitar string. Much less likely to mess with the dimensions/flow of your jets.

Just a thought, random as it might be.

Glad you have your brakes straightened out!

Paul

We can keep this one bumped up til Don gets to look at it.

THUMP!!!!!!

just jt

Done.

My 88 keeps locking up the rear brake only. I have changed the rear Caliper out and thought that fixed it, but no it locked up again. When I first start it and start driving the pedal has normal play. However after about 5 miles the rear brake will lock up and the pedal is struck hard in the up position. I have to turn the bleeder to bleed off the pressure before the bike will even move. I have to bleed off so much that the rear brake is really not working at all. Does any one have any thoughts about what could be causing this?

My 88 keeps locking up the rear brake only. I have changed the rear Caliper out and thought that fixed it, but no it locked up again. When I first start it and start driving the pedal has normal play. However after about 5 miles the rear brake will lock up and the pedal is struck hard in the up position. I have to turn the bleeder to bleed off the pressure before the bike will even move. I have to bleed off so much that the rear brake is really not working at all. Does any one have any thoughts about what could be causing this?

Your brake pedal is adjusted incorrectly. To be adjusted correctly, you can't just have play in the pedal. You must also have play in the small rod that connects the linkage to the master cylinder. The piston in the master cylinder must be released completely or else the small bleed hole near the bottom of the cylinder will not be uncovered so as to allow the fluid pressure in the line to be released. When this occurs, every time you apply the brake, more fluid is forced into the line and stays there so that the pistons in the calipers can not retract. When adjusting the brake, adjust this rod first, the adjustment is behind the frame on the linkage with a locking nut to keep the adjustment correct. When you have a little play in the rod, then you go ahead and adjust the pedal height and amount of play that you prefer in the pedal.

Dick

If you have a 1st Gen, and the Brakes have Never been rebuilt !!

Do it !!

Age is the culprit here.