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Showing results for tags 'tci'.
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Hello all, Been a lurker for the last year and I'm finally posting as I need some help and couldn't find the answers I was after in prior posts. I'm afraid my V4 thinks it's only a V-twin! Forgive me that this will be rather long, as I want to give complete information in hopes that will be better able to assist me. Background: I have an '89 VR (Cali model, if it matters) that I bought almost exactly a year ago and have been slowly restoring and returning to road duty on a budget. Approximately 34,000 miles. When I bought the bike it would only run on full choke, and poorly at that. Previous owner bought it that way as a project. He attempted the shotgun cleaning method but that didn't work, then he lost interest. I have no other prior service history, though I can see that a lot of the prior "modifications" were poorly executed, so I have little faith in the competence of the PO (not who I bought it from) to properly repair and maintain the bike. Anyhow, I removed carbs and had a friend who operates an independent bike shop fully clean, rebuild, and bench synch the carbs. I have since installed and also installed new NGK iridium plugs. Running and performance: Bike has been running now for a few months, but not especially well. I have taken it out on a few "shakedown" rides of around 100 miles or so in hopes that riding it around would help it heal after coming out of an unknown period of hibernation. That hasn't fixed it. At start-up it fires right up on full choke but doesn't sound as smooth as I would expect and I hear a periodic popping that I believe to be pre-ignition or some incomplete combustion(???). Riding it it's a bit of a dog at first and I will have to feather the throttle some when I come to a stop (off of choke). It doesn't fall on its face when accelerating, it just doesn't feel as strong as it should. Mileage is horrible - I'm having to get gas after only around 75 miles or so. After riding for quite some distance (more than 15 miles) and especially after really flogging it on a more sustained basis, it seems to run noticeably better, although never 100% (at least I don't think). Still some popping on deceleration and doesn't always want to idle at stops if I let off the throttle. So in my estimation it seems to be running "kinda decent" at these times, though having never ridden one of these, I don't know what a properly running one should feel like. For reference I have owned several V45 Magnas, a ZX-12R (my main bike), and other inline 4's, among others. I have ridden a VMax once, but it was a number of years ago now. My memory of it is pretty limited, but my Venture doesn't feel nearly as powerful as I remember the VMax. My ZX-12R is in another stratosphere, but that's not an apt comparison. Current Symptoms & efforts to diagnose: I've had a suspicion that #4 is not firing, or at least not all the time. I'd previously used a pointable thermometer and saw the temperature (measured pointing at the jug) was significantly lower on #4 as compared to others. Unfortunately, I only ever checked this after starting the bike up in the driveway and riding up and down my street, rather than after an extended ride where it was running "better." I had also previously checked the spark plug in #4 and saw it was wet and likely fouled (cleaned, dried it, and reinstalled since it only had a couple hundred miles on it). This past Sunday I set about to figure out what was wrong, and fix it if I could. I started it up in the driveway on full choke and it fired right up. After letting it idle for a couple minutes I pulled the plug wire off of #4 - no change whatsoever. I stuffed another plug in it while it was still running and I do have spark - I both felt it and touched the plug to the engine and saw spark. I can't really say how strong, as it was in bright daylight, but I could definitely see it. More surprising to me was that I pulled the wire on #3 and had the very same outcome. I then pulled #1 and it immediately started to stumble, so I reinstalled. Didn't bother pulling #2 as it obviously had spark since the bike didn't immediately die when I pulled #1 . Pulled the plugs and inspected. #4 was wet and clearly fouled. Others were ok (not great), with the white ceramics a bit sooty, but not wet like #4 . Weirdly, #3 actually looked the best. Gapped and installed new NGK DPR8EA-9 plugs and crossed my fingers. I also checked the pilot mixture screws and discovered they were set anywhere from 3/4 out to 3 full turns out. I adjusted them all to 2 1/2 turns out as a baseline based upon what I read in other posts. Fired it up and it was no different. Could still pull the plug wires off of #3 & #4 without any effect. I probably should have taken the bike out and really run it before starting all this, but I didn't. Was thinking instead about having to work on a hot engine. Next I did a compression test. 1=190; 2=195; 3=195; 4=175 (eventually). So, #4 was lower and slower to pump up. No idea if/when valve lash has ever been inspected/adjusted. I see that it requires a special tool and shims, neither of which I have. I now suspect this may be at least part of the cause of my problems, but 175 psi still seems like it should be more than enough compression to support combustion. I continued on with checking ignition components, thinking the trouble may lay there. Holy hell what a job to get to the TCI and coils. I checked resistance on the pickup coil at the plug and all tested wires were within spec. I then checked primary resistance on the ignition coils and all 4 were in spec. at 2.9 ohms. I then checked secondary resistance by inserting a probe into plug cap and got the following resistance numbers: 1=22.5; 2=24; 3=22.1; 23.7. At first these numbers alarmed me as they are all much higher than the 15 ohm maximum specified in the service manual, but then I read that the plug cap should be 10 ohms itself +/- 10%, so if I subtract this out, all three coils are in spec for secondary resistance as well. I suppose I could remove the wires from the coils and try to test at the coil directly, but access is limited and I know I'm getting (at least some) spark to all 4 cylinders. Let me say I am not at all excited at the prospect of pulling the upper fairing to change out coils unless it is absolutely necessary. Considering they all test about the same, I'm thinking they're ok, but you guys are the experts on these bikes, not I. Those numbers also lead me to think the wires and ends must be (at least) ok too (I took apart plug wire and end for #4 and everything looked fine (no green corrosion), then I clipped a 1/4" off both ends of the wire and re-assembled). I got the TCI out of its stock location as well. From what I've read these can be the source of all kinds of poor running conditions as they start to fail. It is weird to me that when they fail it is not a complete failure, as that has been my past experience with CDI's. I can't help but wonder if this magic black box is the source of my problems. I did open the cover, but wasn't brave enough to dig out the soldering iron and desolder the pins to the main plugs just so I could look at the top of the motherboard and the diodes that are known to fail. My understanding from reading past posts is that if the TCI is not working properly, there's no fixing it. The diode replacement and resoldering of various connections is only preventative maintenance on properly functioning units. So my thinking was to leave it alone for now, since if it's broke I can't fix it, and if it ain't broke, I might just screw it up with my extremely limited soldering skills. It would certainly be helpful to have a known good one to plug in to rule in/out the TCI as a problem, but alas I do not have one and ones on ebay aren't cheap (for what may be junk anyhow). I've read about the Ignitek computer, but I don't know what my long-terms plans are for the bike and am concerned about budget. Besides, I don't want to just go throwing parts at it - especially expensive ones. I also checked to see if there's fuel getting to all 4 carbs and there is. I opened the drains on each of them and got full bowl's worth from each. So I'm not really sure where to go next with it. Based upon the compression test, I am wondering if valve adjustment should be next, though candidly I was hoping to avoid this job. I welcome suggestions, comments, offers of help, commiseration, jokes at my expense as the FNG, and further questions. I've done a ton of other work on the bike and I'm really anxious to have it finally "done." If I can ever get it running properly, I can turn my attention to the non-functioning cruise control (Grrrrr) and do a final "detailing" of the bike, before planning some longer trips. Thanks all for your patience in reading along, and thanks in advance for your assistance. [P.S. - If I have placed this post in the wrong folder, please feel free to move it and let me know where it should've been in the first place] -
Hey guys, New to the forum. Like the title says I'm having some issues with my 85 VR xvz12. My VR had run great for the last 2 years I've owned it, just had to fill her up, change the oil and go. But my son and I went for a short drive around central Washington and got caught in a freak rainstorm. We stopped and got under some shelter and afterwards the bike just wouldn't start. After about 2 hours of fiddling around with her, she just started up but ran like crap. The Tachometer was dead "at Zero", and she ran like she was on two cylinders. Got her home and blew her off with a leaf blower and wiped her dry. The following weekend, she was still running sick. So I pulled the battery and checked both coils (primary and secondary check), pickups, spark plugs, spark plug cables, emergency cut off switch, pickup coil, stand switch and the voltages were in the ballpark from my service manual. I then read a post from DonB about testing from the TCI connectors to see if there is a short in a wire, I followed his guide and didn't find any reason to think I had a short. So the old girl is still reading zero on the Tach, failing the fire on two cylinders, and starting is hit or miss. I'm at my wit's end really, I figure at this point it's the TCI. It sitting in its original horrible location, and I don't really know how or why I would want to take it out if I'm thinking about ordering a new SPARKER TCIP4 from IgniTech. Is there anything that I'm missing or have not thought of. I have scanned this forum pretty hard. PS: with the massive amount of information on this forum I'm gonna have to pony up the 12 bucks -
Hey everyone. New to the forums here and new to ventures. I picked up an 83' which had been sitting for probaly5+ years. I had it running last year but it was running really rough and chugging fuel like a frat boy chugs 4loco. So I ended up tearing the carbs apart and cleaning them. Got it back together and now the bike runs rough (though it starts a lot easier). I can tell she really wants to run but something is holding her back, I am guessing the timing. The tach jumps all over the place and sometimes just sits at zero while running. I have already remounted my TCI and found that the bosst sensor is bad (its putting out 6.3v at atmospheric pressure). Even with that unplugged it runs rough. I also get lots of backfires, mostly just little puffs from the #2 carb. I have also tested the fuses and coils which seem to be good. dash cluster works fine as well. I know all the timing is computer controlled which I hate, I almost exclusivly have owned 80's vechicles because of how easy they are to work with due to lack of computers. That said, for the few seconds at a time when the bike decides to run right I can understand why people love these bikes so much. Anyways, I go another boost sensor on the way and after reading some threads here got brave enough to cut open my TCI and think I found a few issues in it but could use some help as to what I should actually do with it (I do have honed soldering skills) Here are a few images of it. The bottom of the board looks good, that black wire I added in as the eched in wire looked like it was on it way out. As for the top of the board, I think it speaks for itself. Thanks in advance for the help and hope to be able to ride alongside some of the Pacifc North West members soon!
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Now sorry too post this long issue here. It's just about 3am here and I haven't had the greatest of days. It is Tuesday the 21 of June. Have received a lot of help from a different site called venturers dot org. You can search for Tach power there and a couple Pages in you will start to see my posts. Nickname iSpeedyG. If you do a YouTube search for Speedy G with Venture1 or Venture 1 you might come across about 9 videos of my hell. The final 2 "the day she ran" and the link I am posting below. Seems I have developed a new situation that maybe someone can help with. It's not normal to ask but I'm dead, exhausted, pissed and really in a need of something positive to happen if you think you can help please don't hesitate to reply or even call. Life has been a little trying lately bb when you get to my page you should be able to see venture video of my problems. I'm a tad bit overwhelmed at the moment.
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So after having a bad experience with a local shop trying to tune my carbs by ear, I decided I would tackle this myself or hopefully with some fellow VRs. So understand this, I have no mechanical background and am clueless on this. Im leaving to Colorado with my 83 first Gen in August (last week) so will be hitting this quickly. My thought is to try to do all at once. So I was looking for help from here to create a checklist of things to do. 1) first on the list is the new TCI from Dingy. After reading many post it seems like this would be a must an because I felt like some of my bikes symptoms are related. Plus it sounds way better than the possible diodes cording in the 30 year old OEM. 2) I believe it sounds like it would be wise to replace the "sliders and diahprhams" in the carb. Sounds like I need 4. Is there a current best place to order them from? 3). Plug and remove the 4 boxes of the Ycis ports. This one is still hooked up. 4) Skydocs's needle shim kit. Question is do I order 4 kits or does 1 kit take care of all the carbs. 5) sea foam of coarse. 6) I guess new plugs are in order since I have been doing the sea foam. Any recommendations what kind. Long story short, the bike ran good before shop adjusted carbs other than lower mpg. Some of the list is preventative maintaince and if I'm there might as well do it. Any suggestions would be great. I'll be ordering a Carbtune too. Last thing, anyone know someone in the Southwest Missouri (Branson) area that could mentor this process on the day of. I would certainly make it worth while. Or possibly someone wanting a Branson vacation :-). I dont care care about popping wheelies but would like to know of this "power". Mainly wanting better mpg. Good thing is there is no fuel leaks on the garage floor after riding it. I have some pro video and photo equipment and would love to document this process for other noobs like myself. Then I'll be filming my adVENTURE to Colorado too thanks in advanced.
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Well, just got my 83 First gen back from a local shop and the whole ride home I've been sick to my stomach. I took it in for oil change, spedo replacement, and to synch the carbs. He said that the carbs are mechanically synced and that wouldn't be necessary. He did say he adjusted the screws to smooth it out. Boy now I'm messed up. This thing went from running 80% good to 45% good. Feels like it is missing or even possibly fouled out. I can't take it back till Monday but I feel like I messed up by allowing them to work on this carb. I described the synch tool with the four liquid levels but apparently that didn't work. I hindsight I should of ordered the new tci that Dingy sells. Wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how I can communicate to this shop on Monday and if there is anyone in the southwest Missouri area that I can hire to get the carbs back right. Trying to be patient. I'll look in the morning to see if something came unplugged or what but I pulled it out of the shop like this. On top of that they had it for a week and a half. Thanks. P.s. It has ran great for several years now but always felt like it was only on 3 cylinders after doing the cold start test with the occasional back fire through the carb. But even the. It ran better than this. I was getting about 26mpg. So in hindsight it might just be the tci.
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I have an issue with my '86 that I believe is either the TCI or a Pickup coil. What I'm looking for is a know good TCI to borrow to troubleshoot my bike. I dont want to necessarily buy it, but borrow it to see if my issue goes away. If someone has a good TCI from an '86 to an '89 and is willing to let me borrow it for a week, I'd love to chat with you. I'll obviously pay for shipping both ways, if someone can help me out please PM me....Thanks
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I have a few members interested in getting an Ignitech 1st gen TCI. Main thread on this aftermarket TCI is located at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 There was an issue with the prior group of TCI's to be upfront on this. There were a few members that experienced brief ignition cutouts in 3k to 4k range. This seems to have been mostly resolved by using a programing option with the TCI. 90~93 single pickup coil bikes did not report this issue. These TCI's are as close to plug& play as I can get. All that is needed is to unplug 2 cables from stock TCI & plug into adapter cable. Unhook stock vacuum sensor hose from #2 carb & hook in new vacuum tube for new sensor. TCI will work on 1983 thru 1993 Ventures & 1985 thru 2007 VMaxs. I need to know what year bike that the TCI is being used on to get correct adapter & matching program in TCI. TCI cost is $255.00 USD, this includes TCI, adapter wiring harness, new vacuum sensor, instructions & units preprogrammed by me better than what they are from Ignitech. Also includes priority shipping to US address. Paypal payment is $8.00 extra. I would rather not get paid for these as a gift to avoid paypal fees. International shipments will be charged extra cost over US priority fee of $10.50. Shipments will be insured. $5.00 increase over last time to cover insurance. Ignitech warranties TCI for 1 year. I will assist anyone with a return issue. I am only assisting in members acquiring these units. 11/10/12 - Lowered price $5.00 because I can not get the smaller vacuum sensor I was going to get to work. I will use same one as last 40 units, just a little larger physical size. I will refund $5.00 to those that have paid me already. Gary -
I'm trying to get the TCI connector plugs out. They wiggle but don't want to come out. There is a tab on top of the plug, is it a latch that needs to be lifted or do I just need to pull harder?
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I just talked with the guy who bought my 84, seems like as long as the TCI (relocated on top of the air box) is cool, bike runs great. As soon as it warms up, bike runs like crap. I let him use one of my extra 1st gen TCI boxes and it acts the same but just takes longer to heat up and then start running like crap. Anybody have any experience with this? Anybody repair these PIA TCI's? Or is the new programmable box from Czechoslovakia the only real way to fix it? -
Greetings all! My name is Jason... most folks call me "Ghostman." What a great forum and group of enthusiasts you all are! I ride with another member here named Bobby G in STAR Touring chapter #352 So about 2.5 weeks ago I ran across this absolutely sexy old 1983 Venture Royale. Odometer says 47k miles and she appears to have been kept inside for most of her life. I didn't see any leaks beneath her and she started slow but seems to run strong. Seller has the bike on consignment from the owner and it had been sitting for a few months at this point... On the 30 mile ride home we stopped for gas... she started a little slower... stopped for cracker barrel and she started slow again. I figure she needs a new battery since she was sitting for a while. Common stuff right? I fell in love on the highway ride home... what huge difference over my Vstar 1100 and Virago 250 commuter. My tailbone just doesn't like the cruiser seating style... although the Airhawk R cushion helps. After the 5 hour ride to Mrytle Beach for bike week... I was set on more comfortable long distance option than the vstar 1100. Made it home and poked on her for a few then took my gal out to feel how comfy the VR was on the road... start was slower now. Also she had stalled as I arrived home. After a few miles we stopped for drinks at a convenient store then it happened... waaa waaa waaa click. Employee tried to jump us off and no dice. Figuring the battery was needing replacement we goofed around for a while as advance charged up a new battery... walk back and get waa waaa waaa... no start. hmmmm... used a jump box... no start. Frustrated my gal and I push start the big beast and get her going so I can get us the 3 miles home. On the ride back she doesn't stall (new batt) and gets us back. I turn it off and a few minutes later I try to start her up... waaa waaa waaa click. hmmm... Well after doing gobs of research here... I poke around a little and decide to replaced the greasy black starter with a 2nd gen starter for a 99 RSV. Figuring if I was going that deep I wanted the 4 brush starter lol. While installing the starter I discover a 4 gauge battery cable has been installed already! This starter problem has been happening before I bought it and the PO was trying to fix it with tips from HERE! This also means that the slow starter has been taking its toll on the starter clutch too huh? Figuring I will upgrade that with Danos deal later in the year so It doesn't give me trouble later on. The only oring I didn't have on hand was for that bypass fitting at the bottom of the silly tstat housing. It is still currently giving me a mild drip that I am going to have to return to... After topping up the new battery she starts strong and the starter spins fast as crap! Woohoo! Although she sure doesn't like it if that battery is slightly low huh? So as I have things torn apart I start noticing a bunch of things different... seems someone had been actively upgrading this old blonde bombshell. Here is what I found stainless steel brake lines front and rear including front discs tied together rather than linked. LEDs in almost every light 4ga battery cable upgrade wolo horn... unworking (trouble shoot that later) upgraded Hella headlight kit Well as of yesterday she started and idled great... took her out for a run to shake her down. Suddenly the tach drops to zero and it feels like it is running on two cylinders! Up and down... she willl run strong for a few and then the tach drops to nothing again. After a nervous ride home going from to sluggish to suddenly rip your arms off when it catches... I grab the Ipad and head back HERE. From my searching it sounds like the heavy rain a few days back ( while she was uncovered) may have gotten some moisture in my TCI or related connections. So after I check the coil wire connection going to #2 I will tear into it and see what it up with that old TCI and its connectors. Who knows it may have dried out by today and run fine... lol. Not sure I can relocate my TCI though as my headlight ballast seems to have been mounted on top of the air box. We shall see shortly when I throw a leg over... I aim to run seafoam through her this week to help clear out some gunk from sitting... but all in all... for the $1500 I paid for her I don't mind fixing some age related issues! I will continue tuning her up with plugs, wires, check carbs diaphragms, synch carbs etc.... Once I get her wrinkles ironed out I am sure I will be happy camper and put many many more miles on her. Such a comfortable and strong ride... I have paid my $12 today because this site is extremely useful and a store house of knowledge... You all rock! So after some diligent searching I have been able to start troubleshooting this old girl and fixing her up... Thanks to all who have contributed to this forum in the past. Your past contributions continue to help us VR newbs with knowledge we need to keep these MKIs on the road... Now... time for pics yes??? She is quit the sexy old girl and seems to have been fairly well maintained... not to mention it looks like she has almost every piece of chrome available at the time. Love the chrome! lol Well that's my story and now time to see how she rides to day... Ghostman
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First of all I have Googled for a picture of a stock TCI. What I have seen doesn't match what I found on one of my 84 parts bikes. Is this a TCI for an 84 ? Does it work on any other years ? It has the Yamaha numbers 41V-85830-00 on it. When I Googled it it shows up as an "Obsolete control unit assembly" Just wondering.
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On Sunday Doug(DBeck) stopped over to swap tci's in our bikes to see if that was his problem. It was, with mine in his bike it ran great. The problem is about a month ago my tach started to twitch and drop to 0 when below 1200 rpm. Since the bike still runs great I thought it was the tach, but with my tci while on his bike it did the same thing. So the question is will new diodes save it or is it a lost cause at this point? Also how long will it last before total failure? If the new diodes will fix it is there a member who works on them. Any and all input would be appreciated. Thanks, Ray
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Does anyone can recondition stock TCI? I know that I can get an aftermarket for around $250, but I can't spend that at this time. I will be trying to clean it up and see what happens from there. Im heading to Montreal near the end osf the month and I need something done soon. Thank you.
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Just wondering if the TCI from and 84 is interchangeable with one from an 88?
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Before my long trip i have accumulated some spare parts to take with me. I am taking TCI, rectifier/regulator and ignition coil (i am taking just 1 of the 4 spares that i have). Is there a way to test the regulator and ignition coil without putting it on the bike? I have already cheched the TCI on the bike. (BTW I am not bike electrical literate.) -
Before my long trip i have accumulated some spare parts to take with me. I am taking TCI, rectifier/regulator and ignition coil (I am taking just 1 spare of the 4 that i have). Is there a way to test the regulator and ignition coil without putting it on the bike? I have already cheched the TCI on the bike. (BTW I am not bike electrical literate.)
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Not realizing a smooth running acceration and decent Gas mileage since installing the new programmable TCI I decide to plug the old TCI back in and compare the performance between the old and the new. 1st I just plugged the old TCI in with the new map sensor still hooked up with vacumn tube to the #1 Intake boot port but electrically not hooked up. Leaving the tank cover off, I go for test ride to auto parts store. It seemed to run about the same as the new programmable TCI. So I'm thinking the problem is not related to the TCI Old or New. But as I was leaving the auto parts store the bike began backfiring, bogging down then shut off and would not recrank.WTF:confused24: So, I'm sitting on the side of the road for about thirty minutes scratching my head, trying to get the bike to crank and worrying about a two mile up hill push home. Then I noticed the orange wire on the 6 pin plug to TCI is hanging 1/2 way out of the plastic plug. I push in all the way in and the bike cranks. So then I get on the highway to run the bike at highway speeds for a few exits and back. On the xway it runs about the same as the new TCI maybe a little better. But, before I could get back home on three occassions while at a traffic light the bike starts bogging down again and backfiring. After wiggling wires it straightens out. When I get home I wire in the leads to the old TPS into the new 8 pin plug so I can switch back and forth from the old TCI/TPS configuration to the new TCI/MAP Sensor configuration and unplug tube from Map sensor to intake boot and hook up tube from TPS to port. While doing this I notice that the pins inside both the 8 pin plug and the six pin plug are not all bottomed out indicating that the pins are not securely locked inside the new plastic plugs. I'm thinking INTERMITTEN WIRE CONNECTION FAILURE WITHIN THE QUICK CONNECT PLUGS On several occassions since I've owned the bike over the past 10 years poor performance and gas mileage has been traced back to bad electrical connections of the quick connect plugs to the TCI. Numerous other problems resulted from bad connections in multiple other quick connect plugs. I just dont trust quick connect plugs anymore. So, I took some small needle nose pliers and make sure all of the wires are pushed in all the way on the TCI plugs and take a ride around the neighborhood. The acceration was quicker and more responsive than I ever remember it being and the bike litterly flies. Next I'm going to take a longer test ride on xway to see if my theory holds up and the gas mileage improves.
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Ok Guys, Looks like I'm running on 2 cylinders.Pulled both caps off left side and no difference in idle. Left side from riders point of view. Pulled battery and box out and can see coils and TCI unit. All the screws are aimed forward so I guess you need to pull the fairing. How difficult is that. Is there anyway to pull the coils and TCI without removing it? Noticed the coils are stacked in pairs towards front, doesn't look like you can get to any of them for testing, but maybe I'm wrong. Hope so. Thanks for any light you can shed on this. Also what are the cylinder numbers and locations?
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I have a TCI that needs the diodes replaced. I have the diodes and was going to do it myself, but after loosing sight in my right eye, I am not comfortable trying to do it. My depth perception up close really sucks. I can open it up so you can get to both sides of the board if that will help. If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it. RandyA
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After a series of ignition issues I have most of them resolved. New plugs, plug caps and wires have made all the difference. I also removed and split the TCI. The diodes are in perfect condition so I left them alone. I re-flowed the solder in the pin headers and put it back together. The bike fires up, runs just fine right up to the red line. Before I did this I was having an issue of cylinder #2 not firing, and the tach behaving a little strangely. Cylinder #2 would quit, and the tach with it (sometimes). Now it's all back together the four cylinders are all playing nicely but the tachometer is dead. This may simply be a dead tachometer. What I was wondering is whether or not there is any way of testing the ouput on the grey wire from the TCI (tach signal). Is there anywhere else I should be looking too? Thanks
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I have had some members express interest in getting an Ignitech TCI. I did the first one in August 2011 and 13 members participated in it here. I have not had any issues with them reported to me. If any of the guys that got them would like to post their experience with the TCI, it may help others decide if this is for them. I have ran this TCI for 2 years now and is works perfectly. This TCI is only available for the 83-93 1st gen Ventures. The RSV's have some dash indication features in it that this module is not set up to handle. I am planning on ordering TCI's the last week of January. That is to give anyone interested in doing this time to get funds together after the holiday season. Cost is $250 including USPS Priority shipping to US addresses. I will send anywhere, but shipping will be more. Due to Paypal fees of 2.9% there will be an added $7.25 for Paypal payments. Checks or money orders would be fine. Last time I took Paypal payments as 'Personal' transactions, but Paypal is shutting some peoples accounts down for this practice. Payment will be need in advance, same as last time. Attached below is a PDF of install instructions I provided & a couple of pictures of TCI. The MAP sensor will be connected to TCI with one connector on it at the MAP sensor itself. You will get following: Pre programmed new, version 80 Ignitech module (warranty by Ignitech) A revised program that is much better than what Ignitech is supplying. Adapter harness for either a 1983-1989 Venture or a 1990-1993 Venture, plug & play & matching program in TCI. Spare terminals for the TCI end connector. Also furnished are replacement ends for the Venture harness connectors & terminals. These are only needed if your harness end connectors are corroded. A new 1 bar GM MAP sensor and wiring connector properly connected to Ignitech harness. Wires will be 24" long and heat shrink covered. The stock vacuum sensor on the bike is not desirable for use on this TCI due to it being 12v based and it is prone to failure due to its age. All documentation and original files from Ignitech along with any useful info I have collected on a CD. Also on CD will be wiring schematics & service manuals for the 1st gens. Marine grade Velcro to attach TCI & MAP sensor. Alcohol wipes to clean surfaces. Small tube of dielectric grease. 24" of 3/16" vacuum hose to connect to MAP sensor. 15 wire zip ties in 3 different sizes. All TCI's for the 1983-1989 will be tested for operation on my bike. I cannot start the 1990-1993 TCI's due to coil differences, but I can program module. An optional item is a 6' long USB to COM cable to allow the TCI to be hooked up to a laptop that does not have a Com port. This is $15.00 additional. Not needed if you are not interested in tweaking the programming of TCI. Ignitech main thread (extensive) is linked below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=40414 Previous group buy thread is at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62620 If interested, post here or PM me. Gary
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I appear to be having an issue with Number 2 Cylinder. Gas mileage is not what I think it should be ... low thirties rather than at least high thirties, and I have long suspected that one or more cylinders isn't pulling it's weight. On a recent ride home of about 90 miles, the rev counter started misbehaving. It would be steady at 4000 then drop to zero for short periods, jumping again to 4000 rpm. That is entirely consistent with #2 Cyl. cutting out and in. From a cold start, the exhaust to #2 remains cold. It will start running once it's revved a bit, but it's inconsistent. So there clearly is an issue with that cylinder. It could be any one or more of a number of things and I'm happy enough to pull it apart to find out what. I plan to replace all the plugs, wires, plug caps as a matter of routine. I can easily diagnose a failed coil but I was wondering if I should be looking deeper than that. As I understand it the only other parts in the system are the TCI and the Pick-Up Coils. Does the failing Tach indicate anything that might pinpoint the problem? At the moment I am seriously considering the TCI upgrade too. I may well simply start by replacing the diodes in the original, but I can't help thinking that a long term fix is going to be the upgraded unit Dingy was selling. Any thoughts? -
My Venture won't start. I have spark on 1 and 3. Nothing on 2 or 4. I've swapped the coils around and the problem moved to 1 and 3 when I swapped the wiring from the TCI, so I know the coils are good. According to page 7-17 of the service manual, I'm supposed to have 110 ohms between the Orange and all the other wires coming off the pickups. I have 105 ohms between the Orange and red/white but 200+ ohms between the Orange and all the rest. Am I looking at a pickup issue or a TCI issue? Thanks, Jeff
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My question for today is; Will a 1200 Vmax TCI plug-n-play on my 1985 Venture? It seems to make sense because I have Vmax cams . . .
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