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Showing results for tags 'stator'.
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Hi there, Today I went for a ride with no issues. I parked the bike for less than an hour. When I started it, I forgot the kickstand was down and when I released the clutch, the bike died. The bike would not start with the kickstand up and the bike didn't have power. I checked the main fuse and it was fine. I removed the kickstand wiring connector and grounded out the wires but nothing. There's power in Acc position but not when the key is on. Seems like a possible ground issue. Could this be a stator issue? I'm unsure how to test and new to this site. Thank you for any helpful suggestions.
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Does anyone know how to deal with the gear shaft when removing the stator cover from a 1983 yamaha venture. How do you remove the gear shaft in the bottom right and corner to take the stator cover off? Pulling hard doesn't seem to be the option because I am going to to damage the rubber boot from the shifter linkage.
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Hi guys. I have a 1983 venture royale. I have all the bolts taken off the stator cover, but there is the gear shaft and its linkage that's stopping me from pulling the stator cover off. Two questions. How do you remove the gear shaft from back linkage/stator cover entirely? How can you just slide the stator off the bike leaving the gear shaft put? Please help. Thanks. (1st timer, I'm 27 w a 30+ year old bike.) -
I was wondering if I should upgrade my stock stator in my 07 RSV. I am running the stock accessories, but I also run a gps and satellite radio. Now I am adding Gerbing heated gloves and jacket liner into the mix. Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Do you need to drain the oil before pulling the cover? I know there will be some oil lost when doing so, but how much is up there?
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Okay Guys, time again for your help; I replaced the stator cover with another from Ebay; but FIRST welded the sides of the single support on the backside for the shaft's tunnel through the stator. Changed the oil using 5W-30; as it's already in the 30-40 degree temperatures with Winter almost here. Flush, filled and bled the clutch with Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 fluid. The motor is running great. but, here's the prob; No matter how much I tweak the shift linkage, moving through the gears is tricky. One moment getting into first is really easy, the next moment it's not. Same with the other gears. The toe of the shift goes down to change a gear, and it bangs against the rider's left floorboard. Same with the heel. I could try cutting 1/2 inch off of the 'inside' floorboard along its length so the heel-toe piece won't 'bottom out', but I must be missing something. I wondered if it is a bushing missing from where the shaft goes through the Stator's tunnel, but the shaft was already a tight fit through it. About a 1/2 to 1" of the smooth part of the shaft is visible before the knurled portion the shifter linkage is attached. What could I have missed? Any suggestions? Again, thanks in advance. Richard in Arizona -
This is somewhat of a specific geographical question, so bear with me. Has anyone that lives down south in the constant hotter climates, installed a Buckeye stator and had problems with it failing? The reason I ask this, is that I purchased a stator and installed it with a new R/R and it appears that the stator has failed due to it running hot because of the wire size it was wound with. Have any of you installed the Buckeye and ran into this problem? I dont want to have to do this again, and I dont mind paying for quality. How happy have y'all been with the performance you have received from the upgraded Buckeye stator? -
Hi all I'm new here to the site and looking to purchase a 2009 or later RSV. Im coming from a VTX but wanted more of a full dress tourer. I usually run in the winter heater jacket, pants, gloves, gps, and charge my phone. With the RSV in addition I wanted to get a heated seat and grips. From the readings on this site it seems to make that combination work I have to upgrade the stator and and R/R. My mechanical knowledge is limited to brakes and fluids so I would probably have to take the bike in to have this work done. My questions is are there any downfalls to have this done, will the dealers know how to install this R/R or will I have to take it to a different motorcycle mechanic and finally after this is done will I have any other problems associated to the upgrade with the bike. I see some people have gone through several stators but I'm not sure why they go through so many. Im very interested in the bike and appreciate any education you guys can provide on this Thanks Vince -
Replaced my stator with a high output one from Buckeye and all was well until yesterday morning I started it up and when I revved it up just a little I got a buzz (vibration) so I took the covers off again and the bolts are tight but I can still move the stator very little by hand so I am going to get some shorter bolts to see if that helps. Could not see any places where anything made contact. -
Stator went out on my awhile back so I have to replace it, got down to the bolt that holds the retaining cover for the stator wire going out of the case and snap off came the head. So I think ok I will drill it and use and easy out nope broke the stupid easy out in the middle of the bolt. I had thought about drilling to the side of it, tapping it and putting in a smaller bolt but I guess I really should just get a new side cover. Any thoughts , ideas or just plain jabs for my stupidity are Welcome. I am hoping I can find someone parting out an engine or has replaced one because it was scratched for cheap. Looks like a new one cost around 300 bucks.
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It appears to be pretty clean. It has about 65K miles. New upgraded stator put in within last 5000 miles. Needs a rear tire. Clutch rebuilt at same time stator was done. I am wondering what else I should be looking for with the miles it has on it. I am sure I will change all the fluids. Probably get the valves checked/adjusted. I also know there were some rear shock problems. Is this something I shoudl plan on changing, or just ride until it is needed? Anybody know approximately the cost of having the dealer do the valves? The price is $4799/OBO. Is that a good price and if not, what should I be trying to get it for? Thanks for any advice. Zak
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As you can see in the pictures, I have one more cover to polish. All the covers started out looking like the stator cover. The other covers I started with 220 grit sandpaper, and worked my way up to 800 grit before switching to polishing compounds. The third image is of the stator cover after using paint stripper to remove the old finish. With this one I'm thinking of just using Black Emery polishing compound to clean up the ugly spots first then work on the whole case, working my way up to Red Rouge. I tried this on a couple of spots in the last two pics. I'm using a Dremel Tool with wool polishing wheels. Bill
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I have a 07 RSV with a stock stator. Need to install something that will draw 5V/.5A/2.5W? Is it possible to do this with the stock stator or will I have to upgrade. Thinking the stock stator won't handle it, so, need one that will. Any suggestions?
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After replacing the stator and sealing the cover, are you supposed to refill it with oil or will it draw oil from the rest of the system? thanks Markus(calgaryrider)
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Stator info and cooling kit
bkuhr posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Due to difficulty of reading the technical bulletin in the back of the parts manual in the library, I retyped the two bulletins pertaining to the stator cooling kits. Reddevilmedic with burned coils from 1-7 o'clock, does not appear to be lack of oil cooling mentioned in TA, but please make sure your outside baffel is in place under the inspection cover. The inside baffle on the stator looks correct, but there is no mention of ANY washers. Practice states stator screws are red locktite, and hand impact installed. Also I can't not see the wire (shaft 1) inside the bolt hole, pretty sure I could on mine. Stick a small wire in the hole and feel for shaft 1. 1 final interesting note, is I think I count exactly 6 burned coils, exactly 1/3 of the 3 phase stator. Possible for some reason you have one of the three phases overloaded. As the stator is directly wired ONLY to the regulator/rectifier, this leaves the options for overload limited to the RR ac volt side or the 3 white ac wires. If not already done, I suggest you remove the 3 pin connector between stator and RR. Also do the diode ohm test on your current RR. If even doubtful don't use it on another, 3rd, stator Would strongly suggest to get a clamp amp meter. When you get all back together, test each white wire with clamp meter. They should be about the same amps. Harbor freight has a couple cheap ones should workfor this test: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=clamp+meter 69166.doc 69167.doc
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I'm considering rewining my stator since it does not seem too complicated. I have examined a XZ550 (Vision) stator that have the same number of coils (18) but is smaller. The copper wire has a diameter of 1.1 mm. Does the XVZ have the same wire size? Here in Europe I can't find high output stators. Probably because the XVZ did not sell in great number here. In UK the Electex company sells replacement stators for 90 £ (140 $) including VAT: http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eelectrexworld%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2fOnline_Catalogue_Stator_Kits_424%2ehtml&WD=xvz&PN=G08%2ehtml%23aG8#aG8e They also have RR that seems up to date; http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2eelectrexworld%2eco%2euk%2facatalog%2fOnline_Catalogue_Regulator_Rectifier_206%2ehtml&WD=xvz12&PN=RR36%2ehtml%23aRR36#aRR36 I have read about the cooling kit but it's perhaps a bit overkill here in Sweden (not being so very hot...)? So back to my first question; the size of the copper wire on the oem stator, please! -
It appears I need a stator.. or I think I do. I changed the regulator for the new one and still no charge. When we test the stator with the bike running and the 3 white wires disconnected we get voltage across any combination of 18 to 40 or more AC depending on the RPM so we thought the stator was fine. BUT if we do a continuity test to ground each of the 3 wires are grounding to the bike which I believe they should not be doing.. So If I need a new stator (the one in is was a new one from Montreal 3 years ago) Which one should I get and from where. Skydoc is reluctant to sell me one of his because I have a Mk1 and apparently the cooling is not as efficient so it could burn out. Any ideas are welcome.. any solution would be helpful... Soon would be good as well due to it being riding season and my better half is already complaining. The bike left us stranded 500 Kms from home and it has NEVER failed us like this before. Actually had to trailer it home.. She groaned about that I'm sure Would really like to have a high output IF POSSIBLE..
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I plan on using permatex to seal the stator cover up along with using a new stator cover gasket, and I need to make sure those rubber peices where the wires run through are also sealed good. What kind of Permatex should I be using? Theres like... all these flavors!
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I read the VR tech article but it seems to have a lot missing, particularly when reinstalling. If my memory serves me correctly, although probably incompletely, there are quite a few hints or tips scattered around the thousands of threads on this forum thatt I don't recall the details and can't seem to find. There is something about: - using Locktite but was it the red stuff or the blue stuff? - what about torque on the 3 inside bolts and the 2 outside ones? - using a spray gasket remover instead of a scraper? - properly aligning the shift shaft or it won't work after getting it all together - the washer that fell out when I pulled the stator cover off? It has a lip on the inside edge and a couple of bends that would work like a compression spring. Which way should it go in? - before sealing, is it better to just pull the new wires through the case grommet in place or remove the grommet from the case first? There may be more but that is all I can think of now. Only 5 days before I want to leave for Nelson Kruzen the Kootenays. No pressure. -
Hey all you First Gen Gurus, Last fall I noticed what I thought at the time were indicators of a bad stator on my '83 Venture. I was riding it and noticed that when I would turn on my turn signals the voltage needle would fluctuate each time the turn signals flashed and also when the radiator fan would come on the voltage would dip from 14 - 16 volts down to about 10. Since it was time to put it in the barn (and also because a mechanic told me replacing the stator would require pulling the engine and a huge labor bill) I decided to deal with it this spring. Over the winter I kept a trickle charger on the battery and started it up every few weeks and it always seemed like it was putting out about 12 - 14 volts as long as it was running at idle. Since I wasnt riding it, i didnt see any of the earlier mentioned behaviour. When I got it out this spring suddenly the battery seemed to be dead, the voltage meter is at the bottom of the scale even after the charger has been on for 2 days at 2 amps. So now Im thinking dead cell in a reasonably new Deka Gell battery. The big question is...can a battery thats going bad make a non-techie boy like me think its the stator? Or is it more like the stator is bad and now the battery is as well? Or could it be the voltage regulator not functioning and not charging the battery or sending the correct voltages to the lights/instruments? Any advice or opinions would be welcome......Im also trying to decide if its time to put the old girl up for sale as a parts bike or fixer upper. Thanks! George0fthejungle -
Hi there. I am new to the site as well as (maybe) about to be new to a Venture. I'm thinking of buying an '84. What should I be looking for in terms of potential problems? I have heard that the stator can be expensive to replace... Thanks -
I'm helping a friend with his 83 venture, not charging, at all. At the 3 white wires from the stator, I am getting between 9-11 volts on all white wires, however, when I measure from any white wire from the stator to grd, I am getting continuity. As I understand, there should be no continuity from the stator wires to grd. Also, I have tested the diodes in the rectifier, with a DVOM on the diode test position, and I have continuity in both directions, on all diodes except 2. Again, as I understand, there should only be continuity in one direction of a diode, so that fails the r/r as well. My question is, am I right in these conclusions, or am I missing something. Also, I think this is an aftermarket r/r. It has the 3 white wires, 2 black wires and 2 red wires. Also, there is no brown wire, which I read in previous posts, this is a voltage sense wire for the factory original r/r, not the aftermarkets. All comments will be appreciated, thanks. -
I need to replace the gasket on the left side crank case cover and I'm wonder what "special" considerations I need to be aware of. I've read and printed the service manual instructions and looked at a few pics on the site. After removing the multiple allen bolts that hold the cover on will it come off with the stator attached to the cover or do I have to remove the smaller cover first (with Yamaha emblem)? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Brian -
The charging system on my VR is not putting out like it used to do. At an idle the volt gauge would read about 13.8 v but now even at 5000 RPM it reads only 12.7 v. Pulled the stator and RR connectors apart, cleaned and greased them with no apparent change. Ohmed the three white wires and got .5 across any or all of them so that seems to be good. Have not checked them for AC yet though. Downloaded the Electrosport diagnostic chart through a link found on this forum but that does not seem to relate to my Venture. Refers to 4 wire colours but mine has only 2 colours - 2 black and 2 red. The RR looks like the stock one although it is still installed so can't see much of it. As I type this, it just occurred to me that the red and black pairs are coming from the RR but perhaps it is the wires on the other side of the plug that should be 4 colours. Never even thought to look. Can anyone who knows what I'm talking about clarify this for me? It's dark out and I have to go to work tomorrow so don't feel like going back out to check. I have a Shindegen RR to replace the stock one and am keeping my fingers crossed that the problem is there and not in the stator.
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Has anyone had a stator go south on a 2nd Gen RSV? I'm only getting 9.5-12.5VAC at the voltage regulator plug and the same voltage at the stator plug.
