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Showing results for tags 'switch'.
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i just got the gloves for christmas and wore them 4 times a total of maybe 16 hours with the heat on. Just thursday I thought the heat wasnt working. i blamd it on the bitter cold and kept riding anyway . Saturday i noticed the light on the rocker switch was blinking . The switch looked great when i oppend and inspected. the gloves work well plugged directly into the power source. has anyone else had a problem with the switch. It has been used for 5 rides tops, The sloder joints look good but the bpower cuts off when moving the wire. Can the wire have broken inside the insulator so soon?
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Anyone tried one of these yet? I'm thinking of ordering one just to see if it works as he says. I am sure with some type of motion switch it could be done and it is a good idea. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcycle-taillight-downshift-activator-only-99-cents-/120759940263?hash=item1c1dda74a7&item=120759940263&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
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Picked up new project a couple weeks ago a 87 Venture Royale. Was told it run a several months ago. Carbs were partially broke down and in a box. Cleaned the carbs and adjusted the valves . Received the new diaphragms this afternoon and installed them and put the carbs back on the bike. Woo Hoo it started. Started it several times and warmed it up. Turned it off at the switch and it kept running????? It did stop when I turned off the kill switch but lights and everything else stayed on. Anyway I played with it and some times it works fine and other times it stays on. Will even start in the key off position, can turn key through the acc position and it kept running. Got it to turn off again (kill switch and then turn the key off,) and did some other things and noticed that lights were on again. It then worked fine turned off with the key and sat fine for another couple of hours without doing anything. Quit for the night without chasing it anymore. I would think it’s the ignition switch but is there anything else I should be looking at? Working on some of the cracks and broken posts in the farings. The replacement post in the last picture is wood dowel some sanding and glued on using Rapid-Fix ( great stuff). Here is a couple of pictures of the progress. Thanks in advance for any ideas. -
Is it as bad as it looks like it'll be? What are some things i should look for? How many hours worth of work am i looking at? I'm going to switch to one that has a CB. This will probably be a doozy of a project, but ill start on it after i get my carbs redone and back on the bike -
I experienced electrical gremlins last fall on my 1990 Royale. Strange behaviors. Too intermittent to diagnose specifically, but there seemed to be some relationship to the ignition switch and/or the "IGNITION" fused circuit. I know that ignition switch problems are not very frequent on First Generation Ventures, unlike the Second Gens, never the less I felt I may be having an issue with mine. So to cure possible problems with IGNITION fuse and the ignition switch, I replaced the OEM fuse block with a new fuse block that accepts ATC fuses and I added an "ACCESSORIES" auxiliary block. This auxiliary accessories fuse block is only energized when ignition switch is at ACC or ON. To prevent excessive current draw through the ignition switch, I fed the auxiliary accessories block via a 30Amp relay and 10GAuge wire. When the OEM ACC circuit is energized by the ignition switch, the relay is energized, closing the circuit from the battery to the positive lug post on the auxiliary accessories fuse block. To avoid grounding issues for added accessories, I created a common grounding terminal strip. This terminal strip is connected to the negative post of the battery with a short length of 10GA wire. The terminals on the terminal strip are electrically connected to each other with a heavy brass buss. The fuse blocks and terminal strip are mounted to the unvented maintenance free battery with double face foam "Gorilla" tape. The battery top presented a smooth surface for mounting via tape. This method probably wouldn't work for conventional batteries. I relocated the MAIN fuse to just in front of the Positive battery post. I relocated the CLASS fuse holder to under the other OEM fuse block that contains the AUDIO, BACKUP,etc. fuses for now, but I intend to utilize the remaining fuse position on the new "main fuse block" for the CLASS. Thank you, Earl for the fuse block.
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Front brake lever switch
tufftom4 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I can't seem to find anyone who carries the front brake lever switch anymore, does anyone know where I can find 1 for my 86 VR. Tom -
Where exactly is the front plug located? I just purchased 2 83s with CB's and i cant seem to find the front helmet plug. The back one is located in the same place as it was on my 85 i used to have. I havent dug into it much, but i plan on tearing both bikes apart to make one good bike. Also there is no push to talk switch for the CB. I'm just a little confused on how that works too, but any information would be much appreciated. Thank you CJ
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RSTD die when shift to 1st (or 2nd....!!!) help please!!
joetx67 posted a topic in General Tech Talk
Hello. Im new to this forum, just got my first 2005 RS de luxe...yehaaa.... I test rode it, it was nice... I rode it immediatly the next day, and the 3rd day this happend: I decided to try the cruise control(did not tryied in the test ride...I know...dumb), and whe I reach my desired speed, I engaged the CC, but the engine died... I start it again, came home and try to start it again; It did start in neutral, but since then, every time I engage the 1st or any shift, it died immediatly!!!! So, at this point I can start the engine fine, as long as is in neutral, but it dies on me everytime I change to a shift. My first guess was a failing side-stand switch, but I tested continuity and works fine. My second guess is some sort of clutch sensor or switch, but thats all I can think of.... Any help will be appreciated.... thanks in advance -
I need a brake light switch for the front brake master cylinder. This is for a 84 Venture Royale with cruise control. Does anyone know the part number and if it still can be purchased thru Yamaha? I think I read somewhere that you needed a four wire switch when having cruise. Thanks
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I have a short in my light bar. (I guess that's what you call it...The chrome bar that holds the turn signals and the ?Fog lights? They are on sometimes and off sometimes. It is not the switch (which seems to be built on to the cigarette lighter. When they are working, the switch will turn them on and off; but when they are not working, turning the switch on and off several times, never brings them back online. I have removed the seat and jiggled wires and never got the lights to go on or off or even flicker. Even when they are not working, everything else on the bike works, even the front turn signals which are attached to the light bar. My next plan of action is to open the fairing and trace the wires. Just thought I would ask about this, in case there was some common problem that was known and someone could point me in that direction. Thanks dana
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My 96 Royal has passing lamps. Looking at the owner's manual, there is supposed to be a switch located somewhere in or around the left handlebar control. I assume it is supposed to be a momentary switch that only turns the lights on when the switch is pushed and held? Is this switch part of the control housing, or is it mounted externally? Whoever mounted the lights on the bike added a toggle switch to the left light housing. I can't even reach the switch unless I stand in front of the bike. Can anyone post pictures of the proper switch for me? Anyone know of a source for it?
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What is the beat way to lower the pedal? By looking at it I would have to remove the floor board, loosen the bolt on the brake shaft, rotate it forward and re-tighten the bolt. Then adjust brake light switch. Is there anything else I should do or have over looked? tew47
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Well my body decided to give me a break and I was able to get back to working on the RSV. I have installed the accessory fuse block , the ignition relay and emergency bypass (Between the relay and ignition switch as per one of the schematics I found here, thank you) and have run a couple of 14 gauge "hot" wires from the new fuse block up to the fairing for the relay to the lights and one for ...well, whatever I think of next. Now I was about to remove the ignition switch to repair it since Mike (eusa1) has kindly offered to guide me through the work (Where else can you get this kind of help?) but, here's where I hit a snag. I don't have a bolt extractor so I was going to use a dremel tool to slot the bolt heads and use an impact driver to remove the bolts, but it looks as if even my smallest 15/16 in. wheel will cut into the switch housing before I have a usable slot. What size cut off blade did those who did it this way use? Also does anyone know what size bolts I'll need to replace the ones I remove? Or are they re-usable if I remove them this way? Once this is done, I'll be splitting the fairing to install a relay for the driving lights and headlight, but first, I want to complete this work.
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Looking for one of these, the box, bracket and the bolt. I'd like to make a sw box out of it. If you have one let me know what you would want for it.
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I'm installing a set of white, 5 inch long LEDs on the rear, for the purpose of getting dangerously approaching vehicles attention to a momentary switch? I'm not sure how legal this is but I would like the two lights to alternate back and forth at a much faster rate than a normal turn signal. Does anyone know of such a gadget?
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I mentioned in an earlier thread that my ignition switch has started to go (Have to wiggle it around to get things going). I am now attempting to install a fuse block (ATC style - 6 positions) and some relays (Driving lights, headlight) to avoid a repeat of this problem. I also plan on installing a switched bypass - just in case. In the meantime, I ran across a thread where someone disassembled their ignition switch, cleaned it and reinstalled it. I was wondering if this is worth the trouble? Will it last or die an early death? I read another thread that stated that sanding the contacts might remove all or most of any coating they had leading to an early failure. If this is true, I see no reason to do that much work only to have to replace the switch later. The stores in this area are light on parts so I had to get a 6 fuse block. It's a bit big, and trying to fit it near the battery is tricky. I'm thinking of attaching it by means of a hook and loop fastener to the rear fender just behind the driver's seat. The only other available spot is under the front of the driver's seat over the various vent hoses. As far as I can tell, the seat doesn't press it against the hoses but it is still a tight fit. The fender seems like a better option. I've attached pics of the block and the two potential mounting spots. If I go for the fender, I will have to attach something to the bottom of the block to fit between the existing wires - sort of a smaller pedestal. Squeezing it under those wires would make a fuse change too difficult. Does anyone see a disadvantage to the fender mount? There should be enough weather protection but I could try to fabricate some kind of cover to give it a bit more protection if necessary. Sorry this is so long, but I want to get it right the first time. I hadn't planned on this and had been saving towards the upgraded clutch kit, which I also need. Now this has thrown me a bit of a curve as dollars are a bit tight these days- as most of us know only too well! Andy
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So ... went out to the cold garage this morning (36 F. - ouch - Winter is definitely coming!) to start the bike and...no dash lights. The radio was coming on, as was the alarm but no dash lights and no start. As I was in a hurry (Club breakfast.) I started the Triumph and headed out on that. Oh the irony! Had to use my English bike because the Japanese bike wouldn't start. The exact opposite of the 70's! When I got back, I pulled off the seat and checked the battery - 12.71 V. which, given the temps and my efforts to start it earlier, seemed reasonable. Tried again and got a flash at the dash. Aha! Played with the key and, sure enough, everything is on! Moved the key a bit and off it all goes. Damn. The ignition switch! There is a tiny 2 or 3 degree arc between working and not working. I guess I waited too long to install a relay on the passing lights (I have them on all the time...gets cagers to notice me.). So...has anyone successfully repaired this switch or am I looking at a replacement? I've checked most of the main threads to date and it seems everyone either puts in a replacement or uses a permanent bypass. I wouldn't mind using a bypass that still requires the key to be on, but wouldn't that also require a properly working ignition switch? At least my gas tank was nearly empty, so removal should be a touch easier.
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I just bought a 1999 Venture this week, there's a problem with the cassette deck. The PO got a cassette stuck in the thing and couldn't get it out. As a result, it won't turn off, and the battery will drain in 3 days. His solution was to wire a switch into the fairing that turned power off to the radio/cassette. The problem with this is I loose the FM channel presets when I turn the switch off. I'd like to remove the cassette and create a space for my MP3 player. If I unplug the cassette, will the radio still function? or do I need to jumper some pins on the plug? Thanks, D.W.
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Ok so being that my New2Me 91 VR has only 6700 miles, I decided to drain the gas tank. Being that I had a heck of time doing that with my 89VR at the fuel filter, I decided it would be easier to do it at the Fuel Off/On switch on my 91VR. So I removed the hose clamp and then broke some of the seal from the rubber to the brass fitting, the hose would not come off. So I pried and pried at the hose until it finally came out. Well what came out was the brass fitting from the fuel Off/No switch. With some more digging the brass fitting finally broke loose from the hose. Well on the brass fitting there were some hose particles. Which means that I will need to clip off the end of the hose where the pieces of hose came off. I took some steel wool and got the rubber off the brass fitting. I drained the tank by using a 2 ft long fuel line and put it over the one end of the brass fitting and then gently placed the other end back into the fuel Off/On switch. Then drained the gas into the can. So now I need to get the brass fitting back into the Fuel Off/On switch. Now all the while draining the tank I only pushed and held the brass fitting into the Fuel switch and not a single drop of fuel leaked from the brass fitting. The brass fitting only went in a little bit and has more room to go into the fuel switch. My though is that I should be able to use some permatex gasket sealer (used on fuel sending units) and then press it all the way back into the fuel Off/On switch. So my question is, does my fix seem workable, or is there a better fix?
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I have some under the kitchen cabinette lighting. It has one of those touch sensor things that increase the light 3 brightness then off. Its about 2 to 3 years old and is used alot for it really brightens up the kitchen counters. One day my wife went to put it on and the touch switch flashed/sparked then nothing after that. SoI took about the controller circuit board and found a blown fuse. I unsoldier the fuse and then went looking for a 3amp 250 volt glass fuse (like an auto glass fuse). Places do have the fuse but I need one with fuseable wires at the end of the fuse so I can soldier it to the circuit board. None at Radio Shack. None at Fry's Electronic. So I cliped off one end of the wire off the old fuse and tried to soldier it to the new fuse. no luck the soldier won't stick to the metal end of the fuse. So then I went looking for a singel fuse holder that I could soldier. No luck. So I'm thinking, what if I bought an auto inline fuse and soldier it and found a place to tuck the fuse holder. Does anyone see any reason why that wouldn't work or be unsafe? Next I'll need to find a touch sensor switch for I'm guessing that the touch switch shorted out causing the fuse to blow.
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I need a little help! My bike won't start. I just finished working on my turn signals (the cancellation unit connection was loose and dirty) started her up and was getting ready for a little drive with the working turn signals, but first stopped by work to get something (about 2 minutes away). Went in and came back out and would not start. The power comes on and accessories and but there is nothing at all when I hit the starter...nothing. I have tried the following.... Checked kill switch (many times) Trying with kickstand up and down... clutch in and out...etc. Jumped the kickstand shutoff switch check fuses What other things should I check? It is sitting in a parking lot, so easy stuff first is best. Is there an easy way to check the starter switch? Is there a way to bypass the switch to get the bike started so I can get it home to the garage? Any advice is welcome
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I want to put some some small 55 watt plattuiem burners on the mirror brackets for my 91 VR. Being that the PTT switch by the left grip is not used for I use blue tooth, I would like to activate the Burners by the PTT switch as a signal. Also I would like to put a regular lighted toggle switch to activate the Burners for longer use. I plan on using a relay. My thoughts are that I can do this, but would like conformation that I would not be creating a electricial problem.
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I met Ron in Bancroft today at a planning meeting for some renovations that need doing there. I rode my bike the 5 hrs return He owns an 86 VR and was asking if I might know why his cruise control did'nt work. I asked if he could start the bike while NOT in neutral...he said "no" so I suggested it could be his clutch switch...or possibly his sidestand switch. I also suggested he check out this site for MUCH better technical assistance than I could ever provide. So Ron....if you read this WELCOME....there are a few threads with titles like "is this site worth the $12".. read some of them and decide for yourself. The folks here are a pretty decent bunch...relatively speaking!
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87 Venture. top right of fairing there is a relay. Have a jumper I put in the socket to allow turn signals to work. If I leave it in the battery will go dead. Local dealer absolutely no help. Would like part number or even name of whatever relay plugs in there. Also, ignition switch sticking and headlamp sometimes will not work after starting. Would like to replace that as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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This does not have a receiver.... So if you are a PGR member, it would be hard to switch from flag holder and back to trailer. I just saw it and thought this might help someone else. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.m748&item=190582644319&viewitem=&_trkparms=clkid%3D3155915016270951475#ht_500wt_1182
