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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    Looks good and I do like your mud guard. Wish I could do a receiver type on my 1st gen. Nice to have that tucked away and more uses for it. Nice job.
  2. Snaggletooth
    :sign funny post:Most excellent!!! Thanks!
  3. Snaggletooth
    Yep on the break down and cleaning the rim in the seating area. I have a Lincoln with alloy rims and had the same issue with two of them. Had them broke down and spent and afternoon cleaning, scraping and sanding on them. After many years of tire changes there is a lot of corrosion on the alloy and crap left over from previous mounts. Once that is cleaned up you should have no trouble for a long time. As stated, most shops break down and tire and rim a lube it up for the new mount and do nothing to clean them up. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    I don't have a 2nd gen but I have a set of 4.5" Drag Specialty driving lights on my '84. I had read several posts in the past about different options for the 2nd gen driving lights and they all fit my DS housings. Wouldn't about any 4.5" replacement light from somewhere like NAPA or Auto Zone be a standard fit? Got to be cheaper than a Yammy light. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Man you are headed for a whole world of education on hearing loss. I started having issues back in the late 80's with what they called "Sudden Hearing Loss". I woke up one morning and with a major problem. I'd lost 50% of my hearing over night while I was sleeping. Boom! Over the next few years I would lose chunks of different ranges just in a matter of a days time. A year ago last September I lost it all. The only option I have now is the implants. But to say what to get will depend entirely on what your loss is and how dramatic. If your loss is even across the freq ranges you could do fine with an analog unit. The analogs amplify everything. If the losses are higher or lower in different freqs the digitals will be the answer. They can be programed to compensate for the ranges you need for speech comprehension and eliminate unwanted sounds. I had both types but if I could still use them digitals are the only way to go. Brace yourself for "sticker shock" when you look into aides. The analogs can run low end from around $700.00 and digitals can start around $1,000 and run up to several grand each. The last set of digitals I had were $2,200.00 each. The implants I will be needing are over $75,000 (including surgery) But the audiogram they will do at your appointment will answer most of your questions on what you need. Go from there. All I can recommend at this point is find the best audioligist available in your area. The one that is more concerned about what you hear over selling you the BEST aides is the guy you want. After that having a good ENT Dr. is going to be helpful also. But the sooner you get aides the better off you will be. Having the correct aide will change your life. It's a frustrating time getting used to them and learning what they can and can't do. You learn to adjust to what you hear through the aides. So good luck with the audiogram and hope your loss is minor. You come up with any questions feel free to PM me and I'll try to answer them if I can. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    That why I love this site. Always a solution for a problem. Thanks Goose. That should speed things up.
  7. Snaggletooth
    Got A/C Gary, I just open the vents. I even got lil air fresheners stuck in them. I smell like ice cream on a hot day. Now with the lamb skin seat cover and a can of Anti Monkey Butt I'm good to go.
  8. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Gary. I never noticed that. I'll throw her on the lift this weekend and take a look at that.
  9. Snaggletooth
    Yep, with the collector it does complicate dialing in on a single cylinder. But with some tinkering between or during tests it should show any changes. So it should point the way if here is something way out of whack. Trial and error. Old school stuff. I've got a full set of extra carb bodies that are headed in for ultrasonic cleaning for a winter project. So I'll probably go ahead and go through the cleaned set when they are ready and swap out the good parts and replace any questionable ones before I get into trying to dial them in any closer. Might resolve any issues with that alone.
  10. Snaggletooth
    Hey Goose. That thought has come up before. A friend owns a service shop and has the equipment to do that type of testing. We talked about it in the past but he wasn't too concerned about it with the consistent burn I'm getting on the plugs. And the fact he isn't sure if the readings he would get would be very accurate without having the ports for the test probes. So it would be a "Shove 'em in the pipe and see what happens test." I got a Doctor like that. But I'll talk to him again a see if we can try it and see what it shows. It would be nice to get a longer usable life out of the plugs. I'd be happy to get a full season out of a set.
  11. Snaggletooth
    The two air deflectors on the tops of the valve covers were not on my bike when I bought it but were in a box of items included in the purchase. It took me a year to figure out what they were and how they went on. When I did my valve cover gaskets I went ahead and put them back on just because I had them. I'll say this.....They are not needed. They make no difference in the operating temps on the motor as far as I can tell. BUT..... they do make a differnce in rider comfort. The heat of the engine stays below the rider much more, and I'd say probably affects the temp of the fuel tank a bit also. With the deflectors on I felt a huge change in the temp of the saddle. Much cooler. I closed off the holes in the side covers also with chrome panels and that directed all the hotter air to behind my legs and feet. A lot more comfortable in the warmer months. When changing plugs I use a thin wall socket with a swivel and then a long extention. Gets around the deflectors ok and gets the angle right to turn them out. If you are having issues with getting a bite on one plug you might have some debris or a nut or screw sitting down there in the plug well. Careful that does not drop into the hole when the plug is removed. A look with an inspection mirror and a flash light might be worth it. A lot of stuff can end up in those wells. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    Well, ya know.................. that ain't that first time that has been said about my bike.
  13. Snaggletooth
    HeyJeremy, I think the starting and charging system on this bike is a strong as it can get. The heart of the system is the DEKA AGM. Still running strong and stays fully charged all the time. It is monitored with a digital voltmeter installed in the dash. The charging system is based on an upgrade stator from Buckeye Performance and uses a Shindengen R/R recently installed with a dedicated wiring harness harness to isolate the charging system. The wiring harnesses has had as many plug in connections as possible removed and soldered and shrink tubed to protect. Dielectric grease has been used on all remaining plug ins from the headlight bucket back to the rear light bar. I ride this bike everyday, and since April this year it is the only vehicle I use. With the weather we have had it has been soaked, drenched and drowned repeatly this year. Never a miss or a stutter in the worst rains you can imagine. BTW .... I have become a true believer in Fogg Toggs. Actually I'm kind of on a quest to embarass my neighbor. He's says there is no way you can get a 6 month riding season in Nebraska. I'm hoping for 8 myself. He has trouble doing 3 months. Ya know.... a light weight! LOL! But with that said I feel pretty confident I've got the electrical system nailed down. And the spark plug issue has been pretty much the same since I got bike running back in '07 before all the work was done. So the spark plug issue has been consistant since then. There have been no other problems that effect the operation or performance of the bike. Not even a noticable drop in fuel economy. I don't worry much about that until I do a long ride and push to see how well I can do on MPG. Best ever was 48 mpg on the road and around town I can beat it down to 38-39 keeping ahead of traffic. If I play nice it stays around 42-43 around town. Kinda makes me wonder what detail I missed. I should not be carrying spare plugs within that range ya know. Go figure.
  14. Snaggletooth
    From the looks of it I would say a 'Busa.
  15. Snaggletooth
    Go ahead Gary.... poke away. I figured it was coming. And I have been following the upgrade with much interest. Just haven't jumped on as long as I have this pile of Commador 64 parts I'm good to go. LOL! You should remember when I bought the new TCI. You made an offer on it also if I remember right.
  16. Snaggletooth
    Plugs have been purchased from several different suppliers over the years so the odds of a bad run are slim. Like I said the wires and caps are within a couple of years old and test like new. The plug wires are also shielded with protective sleeves to avoid wear problems. The plugs each fire well out of the heads and the wires when tested with an adjustable spark tester jumped a gap of 5mm. As far as cleaning and reusing not much luck. The gap is close enough to .035 that a light tap tightens them right back up. The cleaned and regapped plugs will run but not as smooth as new. They are all light tan, dry and clean. Edges are are sharp and no burned off area. It would be hard to choose which one came from what plug if you mixed them up. They are that consistant. And as Gary said the specs are .032 to .035. I have played with the .032 gap and it does not fire up as well as the .035. These bikes are not known for having a stun gun spark. The wider gap is the better setting in my opinion. I have already switched from the DPR to the DP. No real difference in performance of life span. So with that said, I suppose a try of a different brand may be next to see what happens. I've got a new set of coils on the shelf and a "brand new in the bag" TCI I've been saving for a failure. Maybe time to swap them out.
  17. Snaggletooth
    Nope, Nebraska on this one. The one you are thinking about was Oklahoma. Hit the back of the trailer so hard his helmet went through the door and that is where they found him hanging several miles down the road. Sadly, his friend had died a week or so earlier in a similar accident. Oddly enough stories were spread about how his helmet saved his life. Not much truth to that.
  18. Snaggletooth
    Geesh, last summer it was one clocked at 142 MPH. Last fall it was one at 148 MPH. The other day the record was broken again. 158 MPH on a four lane road and Interstate. The only thing not running WOT is the brain. OMAHA, Neb. -- Jonathan Goodburn, 20, faces numerous charges after being clocked going 158 mph and leading police on a high-speed chase on his motorcycle. Now Goodburn and his family regret his split-second decision. Nebraska State Patrol troopers spotted Goodburn with a group of about 20 other motorcyclists driving at a high rate of speed near 156th Street and West Dodge Road Saturday night. Authorities eventually arrested him along Highway 36 near Cunningham Lake. Goodburn's mother, Chris Goodburn, admits her son made a major mistake by taking off and not stopping for police. "Once he got in far enough that he was already running, he was trying to figure out when he should stop," she said. Capt. Bret Friesz with the Nebraska State Patrol said the chase lasted 24 minutes and traveled 32 miles. Goodburn was clocked at 158 mph at one point. "It was probably a one-minute bad decision that drug out over 24 minutes," said Friesz. Goodburn called his mother from jail while KETV NewsWatch 7 was interviewing her Monday. "He says he's sorry that he put other people's lives in danger," said Chris Goodburn. She said the split-second decision cost her son his job. He was expected to be in court on Tuesday. Goodburn told his mother that he's learned his lesson. "His lesson that he'd want to share with everybody is don't do it, it's not worth it," said Chris Goodburn. Read more: http://www.ketv.com/news/28879564/detail.html#ixzz1VDrpD6Fk
  19. Snaggletooth
    I had rust issues with my gas tank a couple years back so I took the dive and tore the bike down and did a reseal using the Caswell epoxy treatment. That was a new product for me to use and I wondered about the long term results. I've had some failures before with other products. Every spring I pull the sending unit to inspect the tank and it has always looked fine. It's like a Thermos bottle inside with the epoxy. But I figured the true test would be the fuel filter itself. So while I was changing plugs the other day I changed the fuel filter. So with a bit over 12,000 miles since the last filter change I was happy for find NO sediment in the filter at all. Nada. That was a first. So if anyone is considering treating their fuel tank........ Go for it. The long term benefits are worth it. Not a single carb issue since the treatment. It's worth the time, effort and money to get it over and done with. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Well, yeah that's SOP for me. But I just put in my 3rd set for the season. Been riding a bit more this year.
  21. Snaggletooth
    I'm big on the DEKA AGM. 3rd season on mine and going strong. American made. 330 CCA I think it is. More than the Odessy AGM. The DEKA is the same size as the stock battery and has extra mounting studs for extra feeds. Tough case and built strong. I've never used a tender on the DEKA. Never needed one. Always top of the charge. Discharge rate on an idle AGM is extremely low. Mine sat 3 months during winter storage a and never dropped lower than 12.6. I'll buy another when this one dies out. Sometime. In the future. Someday. Check out bohannonbattery.com for specs. Or skydoc_17. He sells them also.
  22. Snaggletooth
    Oh ... a wiseguy uh?
  23. Snaggletooth
    Great news Brad. Thanks for the update. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Ok, I'm wondering....... I used the NKG DPR8EA plugs for a couple years and wasn't happy with the life span. I changed to the NKG DP8EA plugs a year or so ago. Not much difference in how long they last. I run them at .035 gap and they are consistant with a nice tan burn on all of them. No fouling and gaps are barely off spec. I can clean and regap them and not get a lot of improvement. It's the same story every time. The bike starts and runs great for about 4,500 to 5,000 miles and all of a sudden it gets picky about starting. I mean real picky. Down right bitter about starting. It will always start, but it's a stand off for a while. A quick change of plugs and she's back to touch of the button. Same way every time. I expect more life from a plug than that but I can not find a reason for the the plugs failing at such a regular schedule. None of the obvious stuff anyway. Caps and wires were new two years ago and still test like new. No corrosion, no resistance issues. The battery isn't the problem either. It's full charge and as soon I change the plugs she's like new again. Any suggestions? Mike
  25. Snaggletooth
    I'm with Condor on this one. If you need to replace the old battery I'd go DEKA. I'm only into my third season with mine now but it's been flawless during that time. And I have abused it pretty badly during that time. It's handled more than any other battery I owned and comes back to full power with a charge. Mike
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