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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Snaggletooth
    Yep, that ETX18L is a DEKA part number for the battery for the 1st gens, just under a different sticker. Same battery I've been using for the last three years. One tough unit no doubt about it. For that money you can't go wrong. Good find! Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Marbles, I've lost a few marbles over the years. Well, yeah those to but....... I thought those lil bags on the Venture were the coolest thing. The perfect place for more marbles.
  3. Snaggletooth
    If ya like Wide White Walls ....... Well, yeah. H-rated for speeds up to 130 mph V-rated for speeds up to 149 mph The Avon AM42 Venom Rear Tire is tire you would be looking for.
  4. Snaggletooth
    I don't get the feeling we need to explain to Tim these bike like the high RPM's. I do believe he's got that figured out. Enjoy the ride Tim. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    Ahh come on Greg!!! What else we got to talk about? Oil?....tires?.....which color is fastest?.....why 2nd gens are so slow? Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    That is the linked brake system. When applying the foot brake the proportioning valve attached to the rear master starts to apply pressure to the rear brake first, then to the left front caliper. When fully applied the rear gets 30% and the front gets 70% pressure. The right hand lever only applys pressure to the right front caliper. Some have delinked the system so the front brake lever does both left and right caliper but if the linked system is working properly it does a fine job of slowing the the old girl down. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    I've played with it somewhat as I've used JB for a lot of other types of repairs with great results. I have used it as a build up material on the back side of ABS repairs to add thickness but for repairing cracks or clean breaks, not such great results for long term. The most durable repairs I've made have been done with 2 part epoxy on the broken pieces and then expoxy a strip of ABS plastic on the back (when possible) to create a laminated repair. Haven't had one of those fixes break yet. Best bet, use a product that bonds the ABS back to itself, not a a product that just holds them together. My Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    Hi Don, LED's have improved a lot. The ones that are shown in the pic of my lightbar on the upper left are I think, 220 degrees beam and are facing sideways in the housings, not to the rear and the silver reflector was removed from the housing. They make some higher power ones that are a 360 beam. The only drawback I have with the LED lights is they don't generate any heat so the snow don't melt off like a standard bulb. Don't ask, I live in Nebraska. And Trevor, on the tires, I'll throw in for the Avon Venoms. I'm sure road surface temps are higher in your area but I've done a lot of long days in 100 degree temps and the Avons have done very well for me. This last set now has 23,400 miles on both front and rear and haven't hit the wear bars yet. The Avons Venoms have one of the highest load ratings out there and that was what sold me on them. Big bike, big rider, heavy duty tire. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    There are also sellers on eBay with service manuals on CD similar to this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-VENTURE-ROYALE-XVZ1200-XVZ1300-REPAIR-MANUAL-CD-PARTS-LOOK-UP-/390362315838?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5ae3683c3e Item# 390362315838
  10. Snaggletooth
    Superbrightleds has a large variety of replacement bulbs to replace the standard wedge types. http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fmini-wedge.html I used the WLED X5's for the light bar on my MKI. Made a nice differnece. Note the two lights on the top left corner of the pic. Same type of LED should fit fine in your MKII. Remember to order lights in the same color as the lens over then. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    You sound like I did.........just a few more miles......another month........a couple more rides. Until I was 30 miles from the house and she started gagging like a cat with a furball. By the time I got home I was on full choke and running the revs to keep her alive. That was the end for me. Pulled the tank, carbs, fuel lines and fuel pump and cleaned everything. The worst of it was the tank was rusting up badly but the reserve pick up tube screen was pretty much gone. So everything in the tank was dumping right into the fuel lines. I was clogged I tell ya! Did the epoxy and changed lines. Cleaned out the carbs again, it is good practice but that gets old fast. The fuel filter in the pic has been on the bike for two full seasons now. Had no reason to change it but I wanted to see how it looked inside. Perfect. It's nice not having to deal with the rust anymore. If and when you get around to doing the tank coating with whatever you use, I have a set of blockoff plates I made to close off the fuel level sending unit hole and the petcock hole. PM me if you find the need to use them. They made it much easier and cleaner to do. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    Been through that, got tired of it. I found this product and will use it again for other projects in the future. Best stuff I have ever used. http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm Been about two full seasons with this coating and the inside of the tank still looks and feels like a Thermos bottle. Tough stuff. Prep is pretty simple as you not even need to remove all the rust completely. The expoxy bond to it even better than smooth steel. Glass like coating. Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Very cool Jack, thanks for posting that. Ya got to admit, they were a well dressed bunch of bikers.
  14. Snaggletooth
    I've got to jump on the "Blame Bob" band wagon. Ya went and done it Bob. It's started here today. Big ol' white fluffy flakes comin' in sideways. I'm saving a snowball for ya Bob.
  15. Snaggletooth
    Check again in the plumbing section of a hardware store for "Bib Washers". I got a whole box of these and they are used all over my bike for spacers and to protect the finish. When I bought my rack there were no rubber spacers with it. The bibs are thick and I used one on each front support leg and two under the rear ones. I was able to match the size to just slightly larger than the legs diameter. Later on I bought these star washers and used the large size bibs under them with the smaller bib on top between the leg and the washer. I did have to ream out the centers of the washer as the holes runs a bit small for a 1/4 bolt. Worked out good and the mounting holes are as water proof as they can be. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    Prayer up and away.
  17. Snaggletooth
    Like Mini said, vent all ya need to. It's never an easy path during a divorce, but when kids are involved.......it's even rougher and it's rocky for a long time. You know what we talked about before. Sounds like you've make some progress. Hang in there. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    You are in the clear on the frame issue. That was primarly on the '83 and early '84's. The only failure known on the '85's was the 2nd gear problem and they corrected that after a known VIN number. I'm sure someone will post that number here when they see this post. For $800.00 it should be a decent price depending on any known damage or missing parts. And make sure the 2nd gear issue is fixed or past the VIN number I mentioned. The second gear problem seems to pop up around the 60,000 mile mark for a lot of guys. Not a deal breaker if you're handy with the wrenches and feel like cranking open the case. It can be done as a DIY project. Many here have done it. Let us know how it works out. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    Oh Dang...... I only got to the Indians before the drooling started. Major bucks there no doubt about it. Last time I was watching an auction with a complete, original, running and unrestored 1936 Indian the bidding was at $116,000.00 and the reserve had not been met. I couldn't watch anymore. What a collection! Be fun just to be there for the sales. Mike
  20. Snaggletooth
    Ya got me on the yellow 1st gen. Not seeing it here at all.
  21. Snaggletooth
    If you have a decent hardware store nearby check them out. There are several in my area that sell the tamper proof drivers in the old nuts and bolts section. Sold as single units so you wouldn't have to buy the whole set, only the one you need.
  22. Snaggletooth
    This was Dano's original thread on the upgrade. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44547
  23. Snaggletooth
    It is a great mod for the bike. I was one of the first to have it done and it is still doing it like it did the first day. Sadly, the man who does the machine work is Dano. Our Dan Obert. You may have seen he was involved in an accident this week and in the hospital with some serious injuries. It may be quite a while before he is able to return to doing this project. Bear with us and hope he recovers well and soon and able to return us soon. If you have any questions on this mod PM me and I will try to answer them. I'll find the Dano posts from the past and post them on this thread. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    Shouldn't make any difference with the standard 194 wedge bulbs. Will work either way. If you convert those to the LED's like I was talking about they are polarity specific. Only work one way.
  25. Snaggletooth
    Here are a couple pics of the changes I made to the markers using the WLED X5 LED's. To compare, the two upper left lights are the new WLED X5's in RED. All the other lights are standard 194 bulbs. They do have the high power bulbs that are a bit brighter but the fit looked to be a bit tight. You can see the red is much more defined even compared to the 194 bulbs that almost look orange.
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