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Snaggletooth

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Everything posted by Snaggletooth

  1. Happy B-Day Rocket! Mike
  2. Nuttin' funny about Loctite around the ABS plastic. Not cool at all. Not even a lil dab on a screw. There will be nuttin' left around it to work with. Nasty bad mess.
  3. First of all......... Get yourself a box of zip lock baggies. You're gunna need them. Keep each set of screws, bolts and lil odds and ends bagged up and labeled as you go. I kid you not....... it's a time saver in the end. Easy........ no...... at least not the first time. Once you've done it 5 or 6 times it's a snap. Then you can quit with the baggies. Start with the mirrors, the wind screen trim, the wind screen, the radiator covers, lower legs, lower cross bar. The headlight cowling. Then hit the dash covers, the dash panels and the odds and ends there. It's hard to confuse the wire connentions. The plugs pretty much keep that fool proof. Once you got that rolling you'll see how it all works together. Really... not all that bad if you keep track of it and stay organized. Whenever possible just put the screws or bolts back in where they came from as you remove stuff. And remember !!! NO LOK TITE WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!!!!! Mike
  4. Rick at Buckeye Performance still has them on his site. I've bought a lot of stuff from Rick. Great guy to work with. http://www.buckeyeperformance.com/p02.htm I've never seen one like the eBay listing so no thoughts on that one. Mike
  5. No problem. I don't get what the deal is with the PH3950's. One store will tell ya they are no longer made and the next one has a shelf full of them and they say sell a bunch of them. Guess it might be which nitwit is working the counter that day. Mike
  6. Glad you brought this up. I'm looking for a bench model for some projects I'm working on. Been wondering about quality. Looks like a ride over to HF to take a look. Mike
  7. Thanks Joe. Good to know. Mike
  8. Thanks for the tip on B&H. They look to the very similar in construction and materials used and for the $28.20 price tag it looks like a good bet compared to the $64.95 BIN on the listing on eBay. The question I have for you is how much tilt can you work out of yours? Most the ones I have checked out have the 360 degree rotation but appear to have very little tilt in any direction, if any. I'm used to using Bogen heads on my film camera tripods with full rotation and 90 degrees on any axis. Looks like these style mounts are a bit limited. But even 15 degrees would help find a position for a level shot no matter how you mount it. Thanks Mike
  9. There are several styles of clamp on mounts for handlebars and would even work for mounting on crashbars. Found these styles on eBay while looking for a 1/4 stud mount for my Drift. Mike
  10. Take a look at the Avon Venoms. They have one of the highest side wall load ratings out there. The traction on wet pavement is fantastic and I've run this set over 22,000 miles with no problems. I'm due for a new set and have them in my shop waiting for the "need" to put them on. They are a softer compound that offers great traction but with careful tire pressure checks I'm more than a lil satisfied with the life and performance of them. My Mike
  11. You are very sharp KIC. You caught that right away. Now say the word "BLUE" and see what happens. Mike
  12. Baaaaaaaa Baaaaaa Baaaaaaad Yep, but they are 2nd gen clones. Easy to catch and skin.
  13. About all you need for the forks is: 17mm allen for the top caps. I use a 1/2 drive. About $18 to $30 bucks depending on your supplier. 10mm allen for the bottom retainer bolt. ( I'm thinking it's 10mm) A section of PVC will work as a seal driver. A section of 5/8" All Thread with nuts locked on each end to hold the dampner in place while up use the 10mm to remove the retainer bolt. Cheap and easy. And I think Earl mentioned his blockoff plates. Nice clean way to get rid of the anti-dives and smooth out the front end.
  14. That worked for me to. I managed to buy a very nice backrest for my '84 but then managed to keep snagging the top of the pad with the lace hooks on my work boots. I bought some imitation sheep skin at Wally World and made a slip on cover for the pad. Keeps it from getting snagged and no more sticky back on those humid days. Throw it in the laundry when is gets dirty. Mike
  15. This was the setup on the Cali models. Look on the left side and check for the sticker also.
  16. On the left side of the bike, under the fairing, there is black junction box where the upper throttle cables meet the lower cables to the carbs, and the cable to the CC. They are a push/pull set up as you proably figured out already. I think, if I remember right you can access the juntion box by removing the lower fairing on that side and and reach the the screw that holds the junction box housing together. I alway had the left upper fairing off when I did this as you need that removed to have room to pull the carb rack out from the left side anyway. The box holds a set of cams that tie the cable together. Loosen the tensioner on the carb rack on the cable and that will give you room to remove the ball ends from the cams. Please......look at this assembly carefully and take note of the location of each cable. There is a a spring in there also so watch how that is attached. It can be a bear to put back together if you don't remember each postion. Once you get the cable loose and the air box off you will be able to loosen the clamps on the bottoms of the carbs and pry them up gently and then slide them out to the left. There is a breather hose that runs from the crankcase to the airbox and that will need to be disconnected to and pulled up with the air box so the carbs can be slid out. We'll will talk later about putting that hose back on. LOL! Yes, we will! That should get you started anyway. Remember you do need to use an assembly plate when putting the rack back together when you're done. If any of the bodies are off axis it can be a PITA to get them to sync up and seal correctly. And sell the bike when it runs? What the heck? I bought mine as a non-runner and most of it was packed in boxes when I got it. Had been stored for 9 years like that. Been on the road with it now for about what? 5 years? No matter what I buy next this one stays in the stable. One heck of a bike. Once you ride it, you'll see what I mean. And NO DUCT TAPE! We use expoxy here. :rotf: Mike
  17. You got it Fuzzy Prayers up and away. Mike
  18. I never had problems with the big un's. I guess it was because I was pretty good sized myself. It was always the lil fella that had something to prove. I was at a western bar once with some friends and there was a group of guys that were being a bit, well, a PITA to my friends. Insulting, rude and out of line. One of our gals had gone to get another drink and one of the guys reached over and knocked it out of her hand. I'd had enough. I walked over and confronted the fool. Like I said, I'm 6'3" and about 275 at the time and he was all of 5'4" and 150 lbs. I only expected an apology and him to pay for her drink. What I got in return was a round house to my head. Ok, to be honest he could have made a better effort. He expected me to drop to the floor I guess. He looked a lil surprised. I remembered smiling at him (my daughter describes it as showing my teeth) and asking "Do you want to be standing right there when I hit ya back?" He and his buddies wasted no time exiting the building. All I could do was laugh. By the time I got settled back at our table we had drinks showing up. The bar manager kept us covered for the rest of the evening and rounds were being sent by others tables. Yea! So the calm and collected approach works pretty well rather you are looking down at the top of their heads or up at the bottom of their chin. They don't know what to expect at that point. Nice job on backing the moron up Dan. Wish all my encounters had turned out that well.
  19. I'm not sure how much Vodka it would take to shake that vision out of my brain. At least it looked like the LEO's were on his trail. Off to Siberia with him I say!!
  20. HOLY SHEET! Got to say very creative but still.......WOW! The one comment cracked me up. "And here comes the inevitable chuck norris joke……. Chuck Norris called and he said he wants his BB gun back" You have to wonder what kind of critter lives in this guys neighborhood that he is that afraid of.
  21. Man, I'm getting all misty. If that ain't love........what is? Nice gift.
  22. Dang! I had talked to the guys at a local bike shop yesterday and they had their last one of that model and said I could have it for $200.00. Not bad. Stopped home for a minute before heading out and saw this post. Yea! Hit the WOOT and SOLD OUT. Boo! Guess I'm going for a bike ride out to their shop today anyway. Would have been a nice savings. Mike
  23. Glad to have to back and tapping on the keyboard again old friend. Been kind of quiet around here without ya. So take care of yourself and keep rollin' forward Dan. Ya doin' good buddy. Mike
  24. The combination of the two units, upgrade stator and the Shindengen R/R made a huge difference on my 1st gen. When I was done I couldn't put enough load on it to drop it to 13.5. The more I'd add the R/R pulled the charge right back up. Now running down the road with EVERYTHING on I never drop below 14.2 The OEM stator and R/R would run under 13.5 with the same load and bottom out at 12.7 at idle. Don't see those numbers any more.
  25. No suprise there! Years back I was a mechanic for a company that sold and serviced contruction, estate and golf course equipment. Not the cheap stuff either. I was in charge of the estate and golf course machines. One of the popular ones was a three wheeled sand trap rake. Looked a lot like the old Honda three wheeler with a lift bar on the back that could be dropped down with a notched steel plate and make quick work of dressing out a sand trap. They were popular and about every course had one or two on hand. Ok, maybe they were just having fun riding around the course on them. But then the fun started.......Tune up time. You had to remove the gas tank, body work, lift assembly and disconnect the drive assembly THEN remove the motor from the frame to get this.........adjust or replace the points. Our book put it at 3.5 hours labor to adjust the danged points! R/R was a bit more. Nice design. The design engineer should have been dragged behind it. Mike
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