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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    I was figuring you still had a fistful of B-Day cake.
  2. Snaggletooth
    Remove left side fairing pieces as needed to make room. Remove the air box and disconnect the breather hose from the bottom and remove the hose from the twinkie. Disconnect the throttle cables at the black junction box. Disconnect the choke cable at the carb. Disconnect the fuel line and the over flow hoses from the tops of each carb. Loosen .... no need to remove the four strap clamps on at the bottoms of the carbs where they seat into the intake boots. Straddle the bike and lift the carb rack straight up from the boots. You may need to wiggle or pry them (gently) to loosen them up until they slide free. Slide the carb rack assembly out through the left side of the frame. I think that covers it. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    Two things I'd be concerned with checking, and one was mentioned. The front forks for sure. Possible that one side is very low on oil. With the stock springs along with low oil and the OEM fork brace it could cause an unstable feel. Went through that on mine. I didn't see you mention the fork neck bearings. You might want to check for looseness in them. Low tire pressure with my Venoms does cause a different feel in the steering and very noticable at higher speeds. I like to run tire pressure at the max for the tire. Mike
  4. Snaggletooth
    Oh yeah....... what ever ya do for preload, make sure ya get the top caps back on straight when starting them back into the forks. A few have had problems and cross threaded them reinstalling them. Something you need to pay attention to during reassembly. Pretty much the tops of the spacers on top of the springs should come right even to the top of the upper fork leg with the forks fully extended. That should be about 3/4 inch of compression preload as you screw the caps in. Any height above the top of the fork legs will make installing the caps more ...... challenging. Mike
  5. Snaggletooth
    As far as the anti-dives....... don't worry about them at all. They will make no difference once the Progressives are in. No reason to worry about resetting the adjustments. A cheap way out is to simply remove the short brake line jumper from the caliper to the anti-dives and eliminate them altogether. Just swap out the short union bolts from anti-dives for the long double unions on the calipers to reattach the brake lines and cap off the anti-dives. Now if ya want to get fancy skydoc_17 (Earl) has the block off plates so you can remove the anti-dives completly. Few extra $$'s but it's an option. I gave up worrying about the sudden abrupt stop. I do give lot of thought to how far I'm gonna slide BEFORE THE SUDDEN AND ABRUPT STOP. Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    1. As far as weight of oil..... kind of what works for you. The way you ride and your own weight. The heavier the oil the stiffer the forks will feel. I'm 285 lbs and I like to press my luck on the twisties so the heavier the oil the more I like it. You can push it up with a little CLASS pressure if needed. To note: When I first installed the Progressives I thought they were pretty harsh even with the 10 wt. After a year of riding I felt they relaxed a bit and I added more preload with washers. I do "0" Class on the front unless I'm chasing squibs on the back roads. 2. Good luck trying to install the 1 1/4" spacer. Be fun trying to install the top caps. I thing most cut the PVC spacer in half. I did mine at 3/4" and then added SS washers later on. 3. Again.... start at "0" pressure on the front. Don't think you will need much more than that for everyday riding. 4. REALLY STIFF! As far as using the CLASS compressor as a tire filler...... not worth the effort. Too low of an output and would probably burn out the pump or wiring trying to fill a tire to road pressure. It's designed to add very small amounts of air to very small (1/8" ID) lines. Just add a 12v mini compressor (HF) for a few bucks to your tool kit with a plug kit to get back to the barn with. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    Not familiar with your bike at all but everytime I hear "Just Washed It" I think electrical. How wet did ya get it? So ya know the battery is charged as you have power, except some display so maybe moisture in the switch, the fuse panel? Starter connections? Mike
  8. Snaggletooth
    When people have days like that I just want to change my handle. It could affect my self image. But welcome to the "I Got Lubed" club. You aren't the first to get a Trophy Shirt on a fork job. I thought I had all the pressure off the forks and had done what I thought I needed to do EXCEPT loosen the top caps. I work on a learning curve. Sometimes it actually bends. Those are the good days. Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Info here or check with Skydoc_17. http://www.bohannonbattery.com/html/deka/etx20l.html This page of an old post here is Joshs testing between the two brands. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33375&highlight=deka&page=4 Somebody had post here about an auto supply store that has the DEKA under a different label for a really low price a while back. Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    Just my opinion...... I think it is mainly because the Odessy was around and catching on for a whle before the other options like the DEKA AGM were getting much attention. People started using them, and liking them before other brands were being offered on a broad scale. Wasn't Odessy one of the front runners in the early days of the AGM market? I'm not going to knock the Odessy. It is a good battery. Smaller and stronger than the stock L/A OEM offerings if not somewhat more expensive. I was looking into them when I ran across the DEKA line. The CCA load tests that Joshua at Bohannon Battery did and posted the results here is what sold me on the DEKA line. If not for that I would have probably ended up with an Odessy in my '84. But put the CCA's and the prices on the table together and the choice was a no brainer. Still loving my DEKA going into my four year and still cranking like new. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    Yep, that cracked me up. I spent a few years doing tool auctions on the road and a lot of stops in Amish country. Our crews usually had a semi, a motor home and the pitch men usually were driving a sports car of some sort. The younger Amish guys (and young ladies) were always drooling on the Vettes and over powered road racers. Mom and Dad didn't always approve of the attention to the cars.
  12. Snaggletooth
    I know ya'll been busy on the International Purchasing project and all the other projects you got your fingers in but hey! .............Take a little time and have a Happy Birthday!!! Mike
  13. Snaggletooth
    Sure, no problem. IF everyone agrees with your choice of oil I'll buy ice cream. Good God I love a sure bet I won't have to cash out on! :rotf:
  14. Snaggletooth
    Huhoh! He asked the oil question. Where's the popcorn? But whatever you chose it's a bit over 3.5 qts with a new filter on. Have it on the center stand and watch the sight glass. When it hit the midpoint the first time run it for a few minutes and check again. When it settles at the midpoint in the glass it's where it should be, not above or your air box gets wet. I like 20-50 in the summer and 10-40 during the below 40 degree months. As long as its has no slick oil modifiers you should be fine. Wet clutch.... old fashion oil. Simple as that. The oil opinions should start rolling in shorly. Make yourself a samich and grab a beverage. These can go on for days. Mike
  15. Snaggletooth
    On my '84 it was a tough start with the choke and had to hold it in place like yours. I was cleaning cables an stripped down the choke control and cleaned it also. Once I got everything cleaned up and lubed it was a different animal. In the coldest weather I would push it to full choke on the first couple cranks and then let it spring back. It would hit the midway detent and stay there. That would set the idle for about 2,000 rpm. Once it was running smooth I'd flip it back off. Once you get cleaned up it should be smooth and you should feel the detent hit nicely at the midpoint. Never knew it had a detent until I cleaned it. Mike
  16. Snaggletooth
    Here is a copy of the Progressive directions. Give ya an idea of what ya need to do ahead of time. The kit comes with a piece of PVC pipe for making spacers. You'll have to cu it. Along with that I use SS washers on top of the PVC to adjust the preload on the springs to dial it in. Those lil adjustments can make a big difference on the feel of the front end. It's all a matter of how you want it to feel and of course, how much you weigh. Me, I used a few extra washers. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    I used the All Balls on my '84. About $31.00 bucks I think it was. No issues at all. As far as the Progressives I can't say who is cheapest. Haven't looked in a while but the different sellers were not all that far apart on price at the time I did mine. About $10 bucks give or take. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    This is the directions for the Progressive springs. Same info can be used on stock as I don't think you have converted them yet. So 5.5" is the going idea. I have played with different levels between 5.5 and 6 and see no real difference. I like the 10wt oil but want to try 20 this next summer. Just remember to pump the forks repeatedly to make sure the oil fills in with no air pockets. Cleaning internally? ..... I have always stripped them down on the bench but some tranny fluid would help break down any sludge in the bottoms I'm sure. I think some guys have used tranny fluid as the oil itself with no issues. Mike
  19. Snaggletooth
    My friends call me Sparky and it's not in an affectionate way. I've heard my buddies ask each other "Is he welding or wiring over there?" The first thing I make sure I have handy on any project is the fire putterouter thingy.
  20. Snaggletooth
    When I did my upgrade on the '84 I was proud of three things. 1. It didn't look too bad. 2. I didn't start a fire. 3. It worked. But dang Kevin, you got the touch. Well thought out and very nicely done. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    I sent this to all my female friends. I also sent a "Change of Address Notice" so they think I'm living in Pittsburg now. Might be a good time to change my name to. Ima Deadmann
  22. Snaggletooth
    I bought the 4' duals at Wally World. They are the "Cold Start" model. I changed from the T12 to the Daylight F32T8 bulbs in all the housings and get a great light from them I have two sets on each side of the garage and two more sets over the work bench. They fire right up in the coldest temps all winter with no delay. Anyway, works for me. But if you're looking for a LOT of lights checking Craigslist is a good idea. I see a lot of stripped out fixures with the 4 light set up in my area all the time. Worth checking out. Mike
  23. Snaggletooth
    Yep.....that's the ticket! Been doing it like that since I figured out the trick. Just to note that "pushing" with the right leg is a bit of an understatement. As you and I are about the same size you will find that if you "stand" on the foot pad it will almost pop up by itself. I have to put very little effort into lifting the bike. Mike
  24. Snaggletooth
    It's more current that most. It listed my newest neighbors and they only moved in a couple months ago. And it shows the roof repairs done this summer to my place.
  25. Snaggletooth
    Yep, we kind of got off track on ya Ray. We be bad. And thanks for the pics Kevin.
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