Snaggletooth

Yep the '84 has a washer and castle nut on the end. Best of memory it is a straight shaft until the 90 degree shoulder where it exits the fork. I haven't torn the bike down yet. I was going to rebuild the new forks and get everything ready then do a quick swap with the whole assembly. Might have to rethink that plan. Again...... Mike

Thanks Gary, So will the '84 axle work or do I need to pickup one for an '87? Mike

Ok, I've been gathering parts for my R1 upgrade for my '84 for a while. Got the calipers a while back and a set of MKII rotors have been hanging on the wall for a while. I had bought a set of MKII forks during the summer and they were in such bad shape I scrapped them. The PO, before they were listed on eBay had beat the daylights out of the lowers and scarred the upper so bad it destroyed any chance of ever getting a seal to seat again. So this is where I'm confused today. I bought another set of forks off eBay listed as off an '87. The pics looked ok and all the parts seemed to be there. But, when they arrived today I took them down to clean them up and strip them down I noticed they were different from the last set I bought. The anti-dives (electric) mount on the front of the fork, not the side like the MKII pics I have seen from you guys in the past. Then what caught my attention was that there was no cinch bolt on the one side. The outer section is threaded for the axle with the shoulder for the axle to ride on in the inner section. Did I miss something somewhere? I thought the axles were the same of both MKI & MKII. But the AD's on the front threw me. Does the MKI axle thread into the lower or am I going to need a different axle? The flanges for the R1's line up fine. Every thing else looks like it should. So tell me what I am looking at. Mike

From my understanding the three washers (two waves and the flat) are the critical part of the oil lock funtion. I would suppose if the upper face of the oil lock is broken or bent that would affect the function. If the top edge of the oil lock is just chipped a bit I'd reuse it with new washers. But I'm just going off the things I've read and been told over time. Gary would have more info on that as he's been through these forks in detail. Mike

Yea! Progress! Now if you're in the mood to spend money there are some Race Tech Gold Emulators on eBay right now. :stirthepot: I mean ya know....... as long as you're in there........

Urban Enduro?

The old slider hammer method does the trick. Just have some rags handy when they come apart. Bet ya gonna find some extra oil.

Nebraska is annually from date of first registation . 1995 Lincoln $88.24 1984 Venture $49.30 And those are up $25.00 each from last year. New taxes. Go figure.

And I thought I'd throw this in as well. There have always been questions about breaking down the forks and how to get that 10mm Allen bolt at the bottom removed without it just spinning. As stated before that bolt is the retainer for the damper assembly. The only thing on top of that is sping pressure. Once the spring is removed there is nothing to hold the damper in place to keep it from spinning. So I thought a few pics for those that have not been inside the forks yet might help with how that is dealt with. They 1st pic is the damper assemblies with all the parts in place. Keep in mind this is on the bench, not how they come out or go back in. The bottom of the damper where that 10mm bolt in bottom of the fork leg is goes into it. The inside of the top of the damper. You can see how it shaped in the ID. The nuts or the heads of the 5/8 both match this nicely. Once the top is retained with what ever tool you chose the 10mm can be removed without the damper spinning. Not to mention a MUST for reinstalling and tightening properly. When you have all the parts of the damper on the bench inspect every one of them carefully. The three washers at the bottom of the damper are the most likely to be replaced with new and installed in the correct positions. Mike

Hey KIC, Sorry about the delay. Been kind of nuts here since out lil S**W storm rolled through. But here ya go.... The basic tools to get you through a seal replacement: 17mm Allen 10mm Allen Damper tool Seal Driver And a way to drive in and seat the upper bushing. I use a section of brass round stock flattend and shaped but it's in somebody elses tool box at the moment. From the other pic you saw the hex on that coupler. I grind that down to fit the top of the lower leg. On the ID of the coupler I sand a bit of a bevel so the lip on the seal does not contact the PVC. I shape the end of the coupler to be just a tad smaller than the seal. Once you have the lower bushing on the upper leg along with the upper bushing, the bottom washer and the seal slid onto the upper leg you can slide the upper leg into the lower section and place the seal in position. When it's squared up you're ready to drive it in. Don't forget the upper washer and retainer clip. I made my driver long enough to slide over the upper tube even with the spring in and capped off. Hope there was something useful there. Mike

Yep, He's got me womdering about that to. Not so easy with the upper still in the lower. And KIC, I said I post some pics tonight but I got called out. Tomorrow for sure. MIke

I see no problem with it. Good explanation.

Hey Kevin, I just got home but I'll be down in the shop tonight. I'll throw a few pics together for ya so ya get the whole visual thing. I'm headed into another fork project pretty soon myself. I Finally found ANOTHER set of MKII forks to complete my R1 upgrade. Hope these are in better shape than the last set I got my hands on. Should have them early next week. From that last experience ...... words of advice. No matter how bad it is and how frustrated you get, NEVER, NEVER use a freaking chisel to cut out the seals!!! EVER!!! Who ever owned that bike before it got parted out mangaged to pretty much destroy every part with any workable value. What a shame. But I'll fix ya up later. Mike

What? Miss work? Who ya kiddin'? I'm a GUY!!! Haven't lost a minute off the clock yet on EITHER job. But...... I'm gonna wimp out for a bit. Just woke up and was wondering who was trying to run a lag bolt into my elbow so ....... where did I leave those pain pills?

Yikes!!! Have we ever met? You sound familiar. Wait!! She did have sister.

Oh NOOOOO!! That one I was talking about, "The Ex" ..... she was a red head to. Not much for the fwap on the head but she could chuck an ashtray with pretty decent accuracy.

Oh yeah! I got that going on in my right elbow. Got a few chunks floating around in there from '79 yet. Every now and then I catch one wandering down the arm. Very strange feeling. My ex-wifey knew me well. She got used to seeing me at the desk with a handlful of butterfly bandages and a tube of super glue. She made the suggestion that men should have dip sticks installed to check to see how much blood they had lost so they would know when to head to the emergency room. Well, that one was easy to respond to. I told her "We'll, I have one now, I'm married to you." Did I mention she's my ex now? I have such a way with women.

Yep.... and that did a lot of good. :crackup:

I'd bet most the bikes out there have not been replugged. It's really not required. The plugs that Gary had look a bit it the plastic tips off a Bic pen. It's pretty much to keep that recess clean. A much as I tinker with my bike I didn't bother plugging them. When you pull those plugs and remove the needles take the time to check the small o-rings on them. I use a real fine strand of copper wire to fish them out. If they are brittle or damaged there is no other seal there to keep from sucking air in. Mike

And I didn't even get bit by a radioactive spider!!! Done all myself by falling down and trying to drive my elbow into the concrete floor. I'd rather dealt with the spider at this point. Last Thurday at work I took a flying backwards leap and did a 4" foot drop onto the concrete and I remember hitting my head but apparently the elbow got there fast and furious. (oop... different movie) When my head quit spinning I tried to get up but the left arm wouldn't bend. At all. Could not support myself but finally got right side up and back on my feet. Checked myself out and I seemed to be fine except for the left elbow bleeding a bit and the stiffness. So....being a guy I cleaned it up and threw a bandage on it an finshed my shift. I did stop and notify the Director before I left that I had taken a spill and just wanted to record it and NO I didn't need emergency treatment. Hey! Like I said...I'm a guy and how many times have I cracked an elbow, knee, heel, wrist, head or other body part in my life. Not enough paper for a score card on that one. Went home and cleaned it up and dropped the old joint in the ice bucket for a while. That helped. A bit. Then the swelling started up! I mean POOF. Man I got a big elbow! But being a guy....... I bandaged it up and went to bed. NOW..... this is where those of you with weak tummies might want to wander back to a nice safe posting. And for those of you with the macho blood lust.... NO I didn't attach any pics. But I woke up during the night and wandered in to scratch my name in the litter box. (cat hates that) But when I flipped on the light I glanced in the mirror and WOW! When was I in a fist fight? Blood all over my face and chest and the arm is drenched. Holy Smoke! Went back an turned on the lights in the bedroom and the bed looked like a scene from a slasher movie. I seemed to have been bleeding a bit. Being a guy..... I changed the bandage and the sheets and went back to bed. So... over the next few days of working I did my usual routine and kept cleaning the elbow and changing bandages. Seems like I'm gonna survive. Swelling is still there but the arm is loosening up a bit. Yeah, I'm fine. Second notice..... be a good time to check out the Disney channel kids. Wait! The kids would love this part. But come Monday.... things got odd. The arm hurt, the bleeding was slow but steady and there was a lot of clear fluid draining. When I got home I asked my daughter to give me a hand and help me take a look at the wound on my elbow and help clean it up. After all how many of you can see the back of your elbow? So she digs out the med kit and sets to work. She's always showed some interest in being a nurse. She cuts off the old bandage and pours Peroxide over the wound. Nice tingle. She mentioned it didn't look like a scrape but more like a puncture at the point of the elbow. Like a star shaped hole. So being a guy .... I want to take a look. Last warning! I raise my arm up, not easy to do, and hold it in front of me in front to the mirror but I can't bend my arm back. So I use my other hand to pull the left hand back towards my shoulder. Yikes! I felt a pulse in my arm and a blast, not a little either, of blood and clear fluid shot out of my elbow and covered the wall, mirror, sink top, and shelves. I heard her scream and I turned around and, well that was a bad idea as I sprayed her, the shower curtains and towels rack as I did. So rather than tend to the mess right away I had to hold her head out of the toilet for about five minutes. I think she has considered her future in nursing is at a low point right now. Ok, Like I said ..... I'm a guy. Now I'm concerned. So the visit to the Doc was informative and productive. When I told him about the bizzarre discharge he looked at me somewhat oddly. I asked him if he's ever seen that before. Nope. I told him to hold up a towel in front of elbow and did the same flex again. About a foot and a half out. Now I got three Doc's interested! So all in all they determined I had damaged the membrane that cushions the joint it the elbow. When it started to swell up and the pressure from moving my arm to that postion it just ruptured and the fluid and blood make a hasty exit though the first available hole. The one in my elbow. And I got a bucket full of pills from the Doc's and I get to visit with them every other day for a while. Yea! My favorite pastime! My bosses only question was how long would it take to heal. I swear, I want to show him my lil trick. Ok, Ok .... so I'm not shooting web stuff but I got to admit I'd never seen nuttin like this in all my years of getting banged up and damaged. Too bad it didn't happen before Halloween! I would have been the coolest guy on the block. Yeah, kids love this stuff. Myself, I think next time I'm going to go the "HULK" kind of thing. I'm not so fond of cleaning up after "Spidey". And I get a lkick out of the "Puny Human" line! So there, it's a nasty, gorey story but has anybody experienced anything like this? And you were warned..... several times. Spidey err.... Mike

I guess I'm nuts but all the times I had pulled my carb rack off I just loosen up the adjustors and then disconnect the cables at the junction box. Seems to be the easiest and fastest way to me. I leave the carb side cables attached until it's on the bench. Guess I'm odd. (no surprise there really) Mike

Ok, looking at the outside of the carb, at the diaphragm side, you see two arrows in the pic. The arrow on the left is pointing at the recess where the idle air adjustment screw is. This screw SHOULD NOT BE TIGHT. EVER! Standard setting is turn in lightly until it just seats gently then back it out 2 1/2 turns for a good start on being correct. If you crank this screw in hard you can damage the housing body. There is no seat on the screw other than the body itself. Now if your carbs have never been touched there might well be a pug in that holes. You can drill a same hole PARTLY into it and pull it out with a small screw. If you desire, PM Dinghy (Gary) and he did have new plug available a while back. If these needles have not been removed ever you might have some build up in there causing idle issues when you put them back on. The needles you pull out will have a spring, washer, and an o-ring in there also. The arrow on the right side is the drain screw to the fuel bowl. When you open that the black rubber lines coming through the rack brackets will begin to flow if the carb is getting fuel properly. Hope some of that helps. Mike

Yep, those are my tools for seals. The PVC is my seal driver I use on the MKI and probably on the MKII forks I'm going to be doing. The end with the hex is the end for driving the seal in. This was a new driver I was putting together so the hex was still on it. I grind that off to fit the ID of the lower tube. That keeps it centered in the tube. The inside of that fitting is beveled to clear the upper lip of the seal so no damage to it. Works fine and cheap to put together. The second pic is the damper assembly. The right side (top of the damper) is where the nuts on the All Thread fit in. You can see the three washers on the bottom of the damper. There are two wave washers and one flat between them. Inspect and replace if you find any damage at all. These lil critters are important.

A section of 5/8" All Thread rod long enough to reach down inside the damper. Nuts jammed or LocTited on the ends. The nuts fit the damper to hold it in place. Wrench on the other end. Mike

Yea Gary!! Ya hear that. ONE AT A TIME!!! :rotf: But ya do take nice pictures.