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Snaggletooth

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  1. Snaggletooth
    This is the store locator site for DEKA batteries. Might help. http://www.dekabatteries.com/default.aspx?pageid=10 There are several other label names also that are the same battery. Big Crank is one of them. Around this side of the border a few auto supply shops sell them under different names also. No matter what should be about $90.00 or less. Mike
  2. Snaggletooth
    Another YAY for the DEKA AGM. Check with Skydoc_17. He sells them also. Best battery out there IMHO, and tough as nails. Mike
  3. Snaggletooth
    Plastic is easy to recycle and mold into new shapes. What ya planning on doing with the rust?
  4. Snaggletooth
    Don't think there should be an issue on spec. The contact area is still above that. It's mostly to dress that lip off an a light touch on the contact area. I had a rotor on one of my cars fragment once. Never risk that on a bike. And that's the truth truth. I may be crazy but I'm not insane....... yet.
  5. Snaggletooth
    Yea, I was surpised they sat at that low bid as long as they did. I expected them to run up a bit more. Still cleaning up the outsides. The seller had scotch tape all over the upper tubes. There are some minor scratches on the uppers but looks to be outside of the sealing area. If not, I have a decent set of uppers I can swap out. Can't wait to see how the lowers look inside. That is where I always find the worst problems. You may not have missed out on much. And 30 seconds? Give me some credit! It was 4 seconds according to my stop watch. Now I gotta drop the rotors of at a shop. I got a set from one of the V-Max boys down south and they are ok but have a bit of a lip on the outter edges. Got a guy here that looked at them and can do a light surface on them to remove the lips and clean up the contact surface. Should look a lil better. Nuttin like having a hobby eh? Mike
  6. Snaggletooth
    Hi Twigg, At this point I am not planning on de-linking the system. I had gone through that issue way back when I first got the bike and was having major problems with the proportioning valve not working right. Once I got past that I played with a couple different configurations with the valve and ended up liking the feel of the linked brakes. Being an old school kinda guy, front is front and back is back, it surpised me that I was comfortable with the system, once I got it working correctly. Now...... that may change once the R1's are on. Got to see how it feels. I already have the SS lines on the bike with the exception of the clutch lines. The brake lines were done in a bit of a crisis moment after some joker cut both my OEM rubber lines right at the calpers on the fork while I was at work. The only reason I'm even doing the conversion now is I found a Markland hitch and have been sniffing around the trailer market. Be happy to have a lil more anchor to drag for that. I got my lines at the time from Buckeye Performance. So I shall see how it all pans out. Mike
  7. Snaggletooth
    So the parts search continues.......... I'm getting there. Someday.
  8. Snaggletooth
    Yep the '84 has a washer and castle nut on the end. Best of memory it is a straight shaft until the 90 degree shoulder where it exits the fork. I haven't torn the bike down yet. I was going to rebuild the new forks and get everything ready then do a quick swap with the whole assembly. Might have to rethink that plan. Again...... Mike
  9. Snaggletooth
    Thanks Gary, So will the '84 axle work or do I need to pickup one for an '87? Mike
  10. Snaggletooth
    Ok, I've been gathering parts for my R1 upgrade for my '84 for a while. Got the calipers a while back and a set of MKII rotors have been hanging on the wall for a while. I had bought a set of MKII forks during the summer and they were in such bad shape I scrapped them. The PO, before they were listed on eBay had beat the daylights out of the lowers and scarred the upper so bad it destroyed any chance of ever getting a seal to seat again. So this is where I'm confused today. I bought another set of forks off eBay listed as off an '87. The pics looked ok and all the parts seemed to be there. But, when they arrived today I took them down to clean them up and strip them down I noticed they were different from the last set I bought. The anti-dives (electric) mount on the front of the fork, not the side like the MKII pics I have seen from you guys in the past. Then what caught my attention was that there was no cinch bolt on the one side. The outer section is threaded for the axle with the shoulder for the axle to ride on in the inner section. Did I miss something somewhere? I thought the axles were the same of both MKI & MKII. But the AD's on the front threw me. Does the MKI axle thread into the lower or am I going to need a different axle? The flanges for the R1's line up fine. Every thing else looks like it should. So tell me what I am looking at. Mike
  11. Snaggletooth
    From my understanding the three washers (two waves and the flat) are the critical part of the oil lock funtion. I would suppose if the upper face of the oil lock is broken or bent that would affect the function. If the top edge of the oil lock is just chipped a bit I'd reuse it with new washers. But I'm just going off the things I've read and been told over time. Gary would have more info on that as he's been through these forks in detail. Mike
  12. Snaggletooth
    Yea! Progress! Now if you're in the mood to spend money there are some Race Tech Gold Emulators on eBay right now. :stirthepot: I mean ya know....... as long as you're in there........
  13. Snaggletooth
    Urban Enduro?
  14. Snaggletooth
    The old slider hammer method does the trick. Just have some rags handy when they come apart. Bet ya gonna find some extra oil.
  15. Snaggletooth
    Nebraska is annually from date of first registation . 1995 Lincoln $88.24 1984 Venture $49.30 And those are up $25.00 each from last year. New taxes. Go figure.
  16. Snaggletooth
    And I thought I'd throw this in as well. There have always been questions about breaking down the forks and how to get that 10mm Allen bolt at the bottom removed without it just spinning. As stated before that bolt is the retainer for the damper assembly. The only thing on top of that is sping pressure. Once the spring is removed there is nothing to hold the damper in place to keep it from spinning. So I thought a few pics for those that have not been inside the forks yet might help with how that is dealt with. They 1st pic is the damper assemblies with all the parts in place. Keep in mind this is on the bench, not how they come out or go back in. The bottom of the damper where that 10mm bolt in bottom of the fork leg is goes into it. The inside of the top of the damper. You can see how it shaped in the ID. The nuts or the heads of the 5/8 both match this nicely. Once the top is retained with what ever tool you chose the 10mm can be removed without the damper spinning. Not to mention a MUST for reinstalling and tightening properly. When you have all the parts of the damper on the bench inspect every one of them carefully. The three washers at the bottom of the damper are the most likely to be replaced with new and installed in the correct positions. Mike
  17. Snaggletooth
    Hey KIC, Sorry about the delay. Been kind of nuts here since out lil S**W storm rolled through. But here ya go.... The basic tools to get you through a seal replacement: 17mm Allen 10mm Allen Damper tool Seal Driver And a way to drive in and seat the upper bushing. I use a section of brass round stock flattend and shaped but it's in somebody elses tool box at the moment. From the other pic you saw the hex on that coupler. I grind that down to fit the top of the lower leg. On the ID of the coupler I sand a bit of a bevel so the lip on the seal does not contact the PVC. I shape the end of the coupler to be just a tad smaller than the seal. Once you have the lower bushing on the upper leg along with the upper bushing, the bottom washer and the seal slid onto the upper leg you can slide the upper leg into the lower section and place the seal in position. When it's squared up you're ready to drive it in. Don't forget the upper washer and retainer clip. I made my driver long enough to slide over the upper tube even with the spring in and capped off. Hope there was something useful there. Mike
  18. Snaggletooth
    Yep, He's got me womdering about that to. Not so easy with the upper still in the lower. And KIC, I said I post some pics tonight but I got called out. Tomorrow for sure. MIke
  19. Snaggletooth
    I see no problem with it. Good explanation.
  20. Snaggletooth
    Hey Kevin, I just got home but I'll be down in the shop tonight. I'll throw a few pics together for ya so ya get the whole visual thing. I'm headed into another fork project pretty soon myself. I Finally found ANOTHER set of MKII forks to complete my R1 upgrade. Hope these are in better shape than the last set I got my hands on. Should have them early next week. From that last experience ...... words of advice. No matter how bad it is and how frustrated you get, NEVER, NEVER use a freaking chisel to cut out the seals!!! EVER!!! Who ever owned that bike before it got parted out mangaged to pretty much destroy every part with any workable value. What a shame. But I'll fix ya up later. Mike
  21. Snaggletooth
    What? Miss work? Who ya kiddin'? I'm a GUY!!! Haven't lost a minute off the clock yet on EITHER job. But...... I'm gonna wimp out for a bit. Just woke up and was wondering who was trying to run a lag bolt into my elbow so ....... where did I leave those pain pills?
  22. Snaggletooth
    Yikes!!! Have we ever met? You sound familiar. Wait!! She did have sister.
  23. Snaggletooth
    Oh NOOOOO!! That one I was talking about, "The Ex" ..... she was a red head to. Not much for the fwap on the head but she could chuck an ashtray with pretty decent accuracy.
  24. Snaggletooth
    Oh yeah! I got that going on in my right elbow. Got a few chunks floating around in there from '79 yet. Every now and then I catch one wandering down the arm. Very strange feeling. My ex-wifey knew me well. She got used to seeing me at the desk with a handlful of butterfly bandages and a tube of super glue. She made the suggestion that men should have dip sticks installed to check to see how much blood they had lost so they would know when to head to the emergency room. Well, that one was easy to respond to. I told her "We'll, I have one now, I'm married to you." Did I mention she's my ex now? I have such a way with women.
  25. Snaggletooth
    Yep.... and that did a lot of good. :crackup:
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